schott b3 break in question

[jojothenorthstar]

so i got a schott b3 in a size up because i like oversized clothing. Now i did have to get 1 inch tailored off the sleeve from the bottom (he did not touch the shoulder or top) but i have some questions about break in

first, should it be difficult to lift my arms over my head or to put a hat on? I find it pulls and tugs on the back and shoulder area around the tips and armpits and the entire coat rides up/lifts

this also occurs when driving. the entire back sleeve pulls and even though my sleeve falls, it still tugs and feels like i'm gonna tear it

pics for reference, the first 3 are post alteration, the bottom 2 are before

https://imgur.com/a/ObTMzK7

 

[Canuck Panda]

Compared to B-15 flight jackets, B-3 jackets doesn't have as much mobility. But it's not the worst thing in the world either.

The tightness, especially when reaching overhead is because the B-3 sleeves are quite angled, versus the wide B-15 jacket sleeves. So I would say riding up is normal, especially considering the thickness of the fur.

It helps with the mobility if you unzip when you reach overhead and while driving.

There isn't much to break in on a B-3 jacket imo, just get use to the thicker fur feeling, it works a bit differently than conventional jackets.

I have a tight fitting B-3 jacket that I cannot move in it. And I am going up at least a size to two on my next B-3 jacket. Yours looks a bit long but you've handled that with the sleeve shortening. I believe in order for these B-3 jackets to work they've to be a little more relaxed fitting otherwise it's a restraint jacket.

My current B-3, too tight to function:

I am going up in sizes to fit sort of like yours and like how pilots wore theirs. I think the main difference between your Schott B-3 and the vintage B-3 is the body length. But when it's cold outside that extra inch in the body helps.

You're on the east coast right? Is the B-3 warm enough for you?

 

[Tom71]

Hm, I have an Eastman (ELMC) B-3 that fits pretty trim. Mobility is pretty good, though. Only restrictions I have is due to the very narrow cuffs. Could be specific pattern issues across different makers?

 

[jojothenorthstar]

Compared to B-15 flight jackets, B-3 jackets doesn't have as much mobility. But it's not the worst thing in the world either.

The tightness, especially when reaching overhead is because the B-3 sleeves are quite angled, versus the wide B-15 jacket sleeves. So I would say riding up is normal, especially considering the thickness of the fur.

It helps with the mobility if you unzip when you reach overhead and while driving.

There isn't much to break in on a B-3 jacket imo, just get use to the thicker fur feeling, it works a bit differently than conventional jackets.

I have a tight fitting B-3 jacket that I cannot move in it. And I am going up at least a size to two on my next B-3 jacket. Yours looks a bit long but you've handled that with the sleeve shortening. I believe in order for these B-3 jackets to work they've to be a little more relaxed fitting otherwise it's a restraint jacket.

My current B-3, too tight to function:
View attachment 587621
I am going up in sizes to fit sort of like yours and like how pilots wore theirs. I think the main difference between your Schott B-3 and the vintage B-3 is the body length. But when it's cold outside that extra inch in the body helps. View attachment 587622
View attachment 587623

You're on the east coast right? Is the B-3 warm enough for you?

 

[jojothenorthstar]

thanks for your reply, I am in the quebec area. It is warm enough, but I always wear a sweatshirt underneath any jacket regardless of temperature. I had a b15 with biswing back for 12 years though and it was made quite large and already broken in when i got it, so i think i am used to more movement.

should I have sized up even more? if not, someone else suggested the low armholes could be the culprit of the moving coat.

 

[jojothenorthstar]

Hm, I have an Eastman (ELMC) B-3 that fits pretty trim. Mobility is pretty good, though. Only restrictions I have is due to the very narrow cuffs. Could be specific pattern issues across different makers?

View attachment 587624

WOW do they still make those? Looks fantastic

my sleeves look longer than yours, maybe it's the bat wing affect from the armholes? another person suggested that the jacket moves due to the excess material pulling it all forward. perhaps i can get it tailored again to remove the excess

 

[Aloysius]

Oh aren't you the Reddit guy?

Weren't you going to contact the Schott repairs department because something is wrong with one of the sleeves?

 

[jojothenorthstar]

Oh aren't you the Reddit guy?

Weren't you going to contact the Schott repairs department because something is wrong with one of the sleeves?

yeah but i got that resolved

yes i am annoying, sorry about that. i just spent a ton and saved up from a lot of overtime specifically for this and i am scared that i made a huge mistake

 

[Aloysius]

Not calling you annoying; I just thought maybe the repair would sort you out.

As others said, it's mostly a matter of getting used to the puffiness of a fur coat. It's not quite like a leather jacket where the main issue is breaking down stiffness. You will get some degree of the wool compressing and smoothing out at stress points but ultimately you're dealing with a thick, but soft jacket. Not something that breaks in; rather, something you get used to.

A B-15 is a very different beast. One is relatively thin, with an insulated lining, and it has a bi-swing back for full mobility. The other is a puffy fur coat.

 

[jojothenorthstar]

Not calling you annoying; I just thought maybe the repair would sort you out.

As others said, it's mostly a matter of getting used to the puffiness of a fur coat. It's not quite like a leather jacket where the main issue is breaking down stiffness. You will get some degree of the wool compressing and smoothing out at stress points but ultimately you're dealing with a thick, but soft jacket. Not something that breaks in; rather, something you get used to.

A B-15 is a very different beast. One is relatively thin, with an insulated lining, and it has a bi-swing back for full mobility. The other is a puffy fur coat.

okay so it's the NATURE of it that's different. i was honestly so worried i would tear it every time i drove or even boot my boots on. Aside from that i absolutely adore the coat and i hope it lasts me a lifetime. perfect color, love the style, the softness of the fur, etc.

just adding one more question, another user suggested that the low armholes could be the culprit. i have quite a few inches of excess hanging down beneath my pit, would having that taken in a bit help? They said it moves the entire coat instead of just the arm itself which causes everything to pull

 

[Tom71]

WOW do they still make those? Looks fantastic

my sleeves look longer than yours, maybe it's the bat wing affect from the armholes? another person suggested that the jacket moves due to the excess material pulling it all forward. perhaps i can get it tailored again to remove the excess

Thank you. This is the ELMC B-3 Concho. Still avaliable according to their website (please note that Eastman and ELMC have different websites although they are the same maker).

Eastman has pretty short sleeves by default, and AFAIK the ELMC variants don’t offer ‚long‘ sizes.

Normally I would think that to big armholes can indeed be restrictive, but in this example it may well be pattern. I am not sure though. Best and only advice I can offer is that you could try B3‘s from various makers to see if that chances anything.

I have had three Eastman flight jackets over time (A2, M422a, B3), and all of them have/had very functional patterns with great mobility. I now have an A2 from RMC (and mind you, they are famous for their A2‘s) which fits larger, yet moves more restriction the Eastman.
This is just anecdotal though, as I have never tried a Shearling jacket from another maker.

 

[jojothenorthstar]

Thank you. This is the ELMC B-3 Concho. Still avaliable according to their website (please note that Eastman and ELMC have different websites although they are the same maker).

Eastman has pretty short sleeves by default, and AFAIK the ELMC variants don’t offer ‚long‘ sizes.

Normally I would think that to big armholes can indeed be restrictive, but in this example it may well be pattern. I am not sure though. Best and only advice I can offer is that you could try B3‘s from various makers to see if that chances anything.

I have had three Eastman flight jackets over time (A2, M422a, B3), and all of them have/had very functional patterns with great mobility. I now have an A2 from RMC (and mind you, they are famous for their A2‘s) which fits larger, yet moves more restriction the Eastman.
This is just anecdotal though, as I have never tried a Shearling jacket from another maker.

thanks for your replies and the website, i've never heard of it prior

 

[Aloysius]

okay so it's the NATURE of it that's different. i was honestly so worried i would tear it every time i drove or even boot my boots on. Aside from that i absolutely adore the coat and i hope it lasts me a lifetime. perfect color, love the style, the softness of the fur, etc.

just adding one more question, another user suggested that the low armholes could be the culprit. i have quite a few inches of excess hanging down beneath my pit, would having that taken in a bit help? They said it moves the entire coat instead of just the arm itself which causes everything to pull

To be very, very clear, even where low armholes are a mobility issue, this is not something that can be altered on any garment. It's never just the armholes. Rather it is the whole way the arm comes together.

That said, I cannot imagine it is the culprit here. You're dealing with a civilian B-3 (I note civilian because often the civilianized versions are bulkier and warmer than the repros/originals, as is the case with "official" Irvins vs the repro ones.) I think you just need to get used to the way a shearling coat feels on you.

The two types of shearling coat with unusually easy arm movement are the ANJ-4 and Irvin, due to their underarm footballs.

 

[Tom71]

thanks for your replies and the website, i've never heard of it prior

Your welcome. Also check out the original Eastman website. They have an unparalleled offering of high-end flight jacket repros.

 

[jojothenorthstar]

To be very, very clear, even where low armholes are a mobility issue, this is not something that can be altered on any garment. It's never just the armholes. Rather it is the whole way the arm comes together.

That said, I cannot imagine it is the culprit here. You're dealing with a civilian B-3 (I note civilian because often the civilianized versions are bulkier and warmer than the repros/originals, as is the case with "official" Irvins vs the repro ones.) I think you just need to get used to the way a shearling coat feels on you.

The two types of shearling coat with unusually easy arm movement are the ANJ-4 and Irvin, due to their underarm footballs.

gotcha. thanks again for replying. as long as i know it's not going to rip while driving and moving i'll be happy

 

[Canuck Panda]

I don't think it will rip while driving or moving. From the photos it looks fitted in the shoulders and you've got room in both the sleeves and torso. Your worries most likely come from the different feeling of how the thicker pelt bends vs the regular leather jacket with no fur just grain leather and a lining. Very different bends.

 

[jojothenorthstar]

I don't think it will rip while driving or moving. From the photos it looks fitted in the shoulders and you've got room in both the sleeves and torso. Your worries most likely come from the different feeling of how the thicker pelt bends vs the regular leather jacket with no fur just grain leather and a lining. Very different bends.

Thanks for your reassurance and reply!

 

[jojothenorthstar]

I don't think it will rip while driving or moving. From the photos it looks fitted in the shoulders and you've got room in both the sleeves and torso. Your worries most likely come from the different feeling of how the thicker pelt bends vs the regular leather jacket with no fur just grain leather and a lining. Very different bends.

hi sorry but dumb question and i can't find the answer anywhere, but i see a lot of people taking about bare chest to jacket chest measurement, but not much on shoulders

you said it look fitted which is odd as i mentioned i got sized up. I've even seen people larger than me in height and weight with a 34 that fit fine, so i am a little confused about the shoulders

i had somebody measure me and i am about 16.5 inches (is that broad?) and the jacket is 18 5/8 according to schott. Is this enough leeway? I expect to gain some weight soon and i hope i did not take it too small.

 

[Aloysius]

Remember that those measurements are outside measurements and do not include the length of the fleece inside. With two inches of additional collar space you are more than covered.

 

[jojothenorthstar]

Remember that those measurements are outside measurements and do not include the length of the fleece inside. With two inches of additional collar space you are more than covered.

okay so the shoulders should be fine? I feel a tad snug when walking but everywhere else is loose