SB Custom Cafe Race - Vintage Clayton HH

[Plumbline]

So .. it's arrived just in time for me to head off to Australia ..... and thought you guys might like to see it. As always, I don't need fit advice nor do I need comments regarding my lack of moral fortitude for dealing with any particular manufacturer. I just thought you'd like to see it ( I haven't seen any posts re. the Clayton Vintage HH)

First up .... this Clayton Vintage leather is AMAZING .... I sampled over a dozen of the major manufacturers horsehides - including Shinki and Vicenza - and opted for this. Heavy ( just a smudge under 3oz ) yet totally supple and without any of the break in issues of Horween. Amazing grain and texture, great hand and IMHO perfect for the Cafe Racer style. It truly is stunning.

Custom features :

Sizing .. it's sized for me ( 42" pattern but with 25" back, 25" sleeve, 19" shoulder, 38" waist
Lining - Strome weight Lochcarron Weathered Golden
Features: Lewis style adjusters, double kidney panel, wear strip in heavy canvas, single inside pocket ( no stud), Riri Zips, Throat latch ( single stud ), Two piece sleeve, no chest pockets.

It's spot on as per my sizings .... and as per my spec.

Fit pics later ... for now some details .... this is the most pliable jacket of this type I have ever received ... it feels almost broken in already.

 

[Plumbline]

 

[Plumbline]

 

[Plumbline]

 

[handymike]

Wow, that hide looks great, and the Lewis-style buckles....
Congratulations.

 

[Plumbline]

Some quick pics of it on .. note it's for wearing on the bike not for posing round the garden





The zipped one makes me look about 3 stones heavier than I am

 

[nick123]

That looks great and lovely leather.

 

[RJR]

That looks great and lovely leather.

+1

 

[ton312]

Nice! I just took delivery of a Detroit this week. Will get some pics and write up over the weekend.

 

[Mark]

That's lovely congrats. May I ask about the arm length, seems short to me for a 42 but as you state made for you. I mention it cos I have a bike jacket on order from SB, a 36 but with 24.5 arm length (standard length in fact). The arm length is my main concern. Like you I ride so the extra length is needed. How did you measure, shoulder following curvature of arm to cuff or pit to cuff?
I had a sample of the Clayton Vintage, wrinkled nicely, I went for the Ranger Horse, even lighter and a tad cheaper!

 

[samo]

... like it very much Plumbline Just wonder why You decided for Clayton over a Blattwerk horse? I am also interested about the buckles, did SB stocked such buckles now or maybe You supplied them?

 

[Plumbline]

Mark .. it's about 2" shorter than their std arm length and about the same shorter in body length ( I'm 170cm / 5'7" .. as per my routine medical 2 weeks ago .... 87Kg and borderline obese apparently - 33" jeans ) The arm length with curve is 25" against their std which is 27" I believe ( typo earlier - was on my phone)

Once I'd decided that I didn't really like the Vermont ... it became a straight fight between Blattwerk / Shinki and Clayton .... I got samples of all and even looked at complete jackets in each. The Blattenwerk and Shinki are GREAT leathers and much closer than you'd expect. Eventually the hand of the Clayton won .. it's just a more malleable leather. Shinki has a unique feel to the topcoat .. almost waxy. The Blattenwerk is somewhere between Shinki / Clayton and Horwween in thickness and feel. The Clayton just felt better and I want for the vintage over the smooth or the chrome Clayton. I wanted a medium weight but drapey leather

Samo .... Buckles are supplied by SB ... normally the leather strap is doubled back ( even on the lewis jackets) but I like them on show ( I prefer them to the std plain prong less buckle on this style of jacket) and my experience with my Bronx was that they don't slip even without doubling back but time will tell

 

[Mark]

Mark .. it's about 2" shorter than their std arm length and about the same shorter in body length ( I'm 170cm / 5'7" .. as per my routine medical 2 weeks ago .... 87Kg and borderline obese apparently - 33" jeans ) The arm length with curve is 25" against their std which is 27" I believe ( typo earlier - was on my phone)

Once I'd decided that I didn't really like the Vermont ... it became a straight fight between Blattwerk / Shinki and Clayton .... I got samples of all and even looked at complete jackets in each. The Blattenwerk and Shinki are GREAT leathers and much closer than you'd expect. Eventually the hand of the Clayton won .. it's just a more malleable leather. Shinki has a unique feel to the topcoat .. almost waxy. The Blattenwerk is somewhere between Shinki / Clayton and Horwween in thickness and feel. The Clayton just felt better and I want for the vintage over the smooth or the chrome Clayton. I wanted a medium weight but drapey leather

Samo .... Buckles are supplied by SB ... normally the leather strap is doubled back ( even on the lewis jackets) but I like them on show ( I prefer them to the std plain prong less buckle on this style of jacket) and my experience with my Bronx was that they don't slip even without doubling back but time will tell

Thanks Plumbline. Kind of relieved it was a typo error! Did'nt think my arms were that long! To be honest most of the leather samples I received (and you) are very nice. I particularly liked the look and feel of the Blattwerk but at a £100. more. Great to see how your jacket looks in 6 months or so. Thanks

 

[ProteinNerd]

Great looking jacket the PL.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you absolutely do not need to bring it to Australia at the moment "just in case" it gets cold.

 

[ton312]

Great looking jacket the PL.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you absolutely do not need to bring it to Australia at the moment "just in case" it gets cold.

Saw on the news it's like the hottest it's been in 100 years there!

 

[TREEMAN]

Awesome.............

 

[samo]

Thank You Plumbline. I received some samples of Blattwerk horse and I like them more than other SB hides.
Regarding the buckles i am intrigued with Your choice as such buckles should hold really well as opposed to all other prongless types?

 

[Plumbline]

The simple prong less buckle as used by SB, Aero and various others has a tendency to slip when not doubled back IMHO. I never had this issue with any of the Lewis Bike jackets I had or on my ANJ-4 .... even cinched in pretty hard. So ... I investigated a little further and discussed it with Steve, the options were either to use a slider buckle ( like on the ANJ-4) or the "Lewis" style buckle ... I also did some practical testing with my Bronx and also my ANJ-4's .... I think because of the pivot point and also because of the angle of the bar this is a much "tighter" buckle than the std. prong less buckle ( even though it's slightly wider). I also has that M/C jacket " look and feel" that I quite like ... either way it's much stronger than the std. prongless buckle and if you double it back it's almost immovable.

Either way I'll let you know how it goes

 

[K-Pants]

Nice! I just took delivery of a Detroit this week. Will get some pics and write up over the weekend.

Yes, do!
I am still waiting on a Detroit. Would like to see how yours turned out.

 

[K-Pants]

The simple prong less buckle as used by SB, Aero and various others has a tendency to slip when not doubled back IMHO. I never had this issue with any of the Lewis Bike jackets I had or on my ANJ-4 .... even cinched in pretty hard. So ... I investigated a little further and discussed it with Steve, the options were either to use a slider buckle ( like on the ANJ-4) or the "Lewis" style buckle ... I also did some practical testing with my Bronx and also my ANJ-4's .... I think because of the pivot point and also because of the angle of the bar this is a much "tighter" buckle than the std. prong less buckle ( even though it's slightly wider). I also has that M/C jacket " look and feel" that I quite like ... either way it's much stronger than the std. prongless buckle and if you double it back it's almost immovable.

Either way I'll let you know how it goes

That's a great jacket, Plumbline. Congrats!
I love the way the leather looks and kudos on the RiRi