Sanitizing used hats?

[bolthead]

Where can you buy some Naptha?

 

[Brinybay]

Where can you buy some Naptha?

I went to Yahoo Local and typed in "naptha" and it listed various energy and fuel oil companies in my area.

 

[Sweet Leilani]

If you gentlemen don't mind a lady jumping in here...

I'm a museum curator and what we do for all incoming textiles is to place them in an airtight plastic bag and freeze them for a couple of days. This kills any adult bugs. Then we remove the item from the freezer, and allow it to assume room temperature for another 3 days. This will stimulate any eggs to hatch. Then it's back in the freezer for another 2 days, killing all the hatchlings. Once you remove it from the freezer the second time, vacuum all the crevices and behind the band to eliminate any insect debris.

Using this method we have never had an active infestation in our museum, which contains some extremely rare wool and shearling items. I would never use any sort of chemical (naptha, camphor in mothballs, etc.) on a textile- the possibility of damage is very high.

 

[Brinybay]

If you gentlemen don't mind a lady jumping in here...

I'm a museum curator and what we do for all incoming textiles is to place them in an airtight plastic bag and freeze them for a couple of days. This kills any adult bugs. Then we remove the item from the freezer, and allow it to assume room temperature for another 3 days. This will stimulate any eggs to hatch. Then it's back in the freezer for another 2 days, killing all the hatchlings. Once you remove it from the freezer the second time, vacuum all the crevices and behind the band to eliminate any insect debris.

Using this method we have never had an active infestation in our museum, which contains some extremely rare wool and shearling items. I would never use any sort of chemical (naptha, camphor in mothballs, etc.) on a textile- the possibility of damage is very high.

Do you leave it sealed in the bag when you take it out to assume room temp? Thanks for posting an effective but quick & dirty (pun intended) method.

 

[Prairie Shade]

Scratch scratch

Thank you Sweet Leilani - The definitive answer. I have just used the zero degree freezer for a month solution but your idea sounds excellent without patronizing the chemical industry. Once again, experience wins out over the better living thru chemistry. But I like the setting on fire option also. Some of my used hats deserved this option. Get out the weiners and sticks for a 7 1/4 Dobbs Homburg!!!

 

[tandmark]

Aloha,

Sweet Leilani, am I right that your museum is primarily worried about dermestid beetle infestations & clothes moths? If so, the freezer trick is just the ticket.

Naphtha and any other chemicals are obviously going to be off-limits for you.

And, you lucky thing, your vitrines and museum mounts don't have to worry about ringworm.

At least dealing with these kinds of problem in textiles is a lot easier than dealing with stocks of nitrate film. When I was getting my certificate in Museum Studies at the University of Washington a couple of years ago, I did a lot of research into preservation techniques for old film. Nitrate makes problems like dermestids and tinea seem minor by comparison.

Mostly because textiles won't spontaneously explode.

Cheers,
Mark

 

[Sweet Leilani]

Aloha,

Sweet Leilani, am I right that your museum is primarily worried about dermestid beetle infestations & clothes moths? If so, the freezer trick is just the ticket.

Naphtha and any other chemicals are obviously going to be off-limits for you.

You are quite right, although powder post beetles are a concern as well.

And, you lucky thing, your vitrines and museum mounts don't have to worry about ringworm.

No vitrines here, and unless you consider this a "museum mount" (it is animal skin)...

we only have to worry about staff contracting ringworm from incoming artifacts!

At least dealing with these kinds of problem in textiles is a lot easier than dealing with stocks of nitrate film. When I was getting my certificate in Museum Studies at the University of Washington a couple of years ago, I did a lot of research into preservation techniques for old film. Nitrate makes problems like dermestids and tinea seem minor by comparison.

Mostly because textiles won't spontaneously explode.

Cheers,
Mark

Well, in my line of work, certain kinds of textiles (Mae Wests) do come with explosive charges...

I actually specialized in plastics, so I know where you're coming from! Thankfully our films are all safety film, but I do occasionally have to deal with a deteriorating cellulose artifact. But my biggest environmental concern right now is a donation of aerial pesticide application equipment- who knows what icky chemical residue could be on that!

 

[Tango Yankee]

Where can you buy some Naptha?

I get mine at Ace hardware, though these days it's a special order. It's a heck of a lot cheaper going that route than buying the small cans of it that Lowes carries at the same price as a gallon at Ace!

Cheers,
Tom

 

[Rick Blaine]

two more of my cents...

I have used all three of the solvent based cleaners repeatedly and I must say that of the three the Coleman camp stove fuel (white gas) seemed to me to evaporate the quickest and although none ultimately seemed to leave any residual odor or residue the white gas seemed to feel the "cleanest" in my (very) subjective estimation. I do recall, in my youth, the old-timers cleaning their cowboy hats. They just called it "gas". I suppose before the additives & detergents we see in today's gasoline it was more like white gas.

 

[Mojave Jack]

One note of clarification on the freezing method, you must have a freezer than can be set to -20C (-5F) for the method to be effective. Many home type freezers won't go that cold. For reference, here is the NPS bulletin on exactly how to use the freezing method:

Conserve-O-Gram Number 3/6: An Insect Pest Control Procedure: The Freezing Process

Leilani, nice to see another collections type around! I have to admit, I am pretty lucky in my collections, since they are 95% lithics, about 2% ceramics, 1% each faunal remains and historic debris (i.e. nails, cans, etc.), and a very tiny percentage are organics. Not many pests on rocks!

 

[bolthead]

I have used all three of the solvent based cleaners repeatedly and I must say that of the three the Coleman camp stove fuel (white gas) seemed to me to evaporate the quickest and although none ultimately seemed to leave any residual odor or residue the white gas seemed to feel the "cleanest" in my (very) subjective estimation. I do recall, in my youth, the old-timers cleaning their cowboy hats. They just called it "gas". I suppose before the additives & detergents we see in today's gasoline it was more like white gas.

Rick, when using this stuff....can you dunk the whole hat, as is....liner in tact...and will it damage the sweat? Also, you say it leaves no lasting odors. Even though this is a fuel.....does this hold true?

 

[Rick Blaine]

Uh-huh

Rick, when using this stuff....can you dunk the whole hat, as is....liner in tact...and will it damage the sweat? Also, you say it leaves no lasting odors. Even though this is a fuel.....does this hold true?

Yeah bolt' I have even left a feather in place once, no problemo... the one time I did have trouble was the result of either deteriorated or smoke tanned leather (!?!?), it still makes me sad to think of it... >choke< but read all about it http://thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=19231http://thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=19231here.

 

[barrowjh]

I have been using Coleman fuel for quite a while to clean hats, and recently my Daughter gave me a copy of "Scientific Hat Finishing and Renovating" by Henry L. Ermatinger, a 2006 reprint of the 1919 original. In it, gasoline is the primary cleaner, though the proper method was to remove the sweatband before placing them into the overnight gasoline bath.

I first treat the sweatband with Lexol (commonly in auto parts stores for seat leather) - on the smooth side first (especially at the stitches) and after an hour or so - gently turn out the sweat and begin treating the back side which will absorb much more Lexol (again, especially near the stitches). The sweatband treatment may take 2-3 iterations on the backside, allowing a day inbetween, until it no longer dries out fully but remains slightly moist.

Pour some of the fuel into a low pan, maybe 2 inches deep, and set the crown of the hat in it, letting the gas seep into the crown. Pour some of the fuel into a small plastic cup and then use that to pour directly into the crown to speed this process. Pick up the hat a few inches, letting the fuel seep through the liner and felt and drip back into the pan. Tilt it around to get the fuel almost to the sweatband (BUT NOT TOUCHING THE SWEATBAND) to insure all the felt is saturated. The fuel really helps clean out the grease that has settled into the old crease lines in the crown, setting you up to reshape the crown as you please later. After there is no longer any 'standing' gas in the crown, tilt the pan up a little and dip the brim, moving the hat around to saturate all of the brim also. Set it outside to dry out about 4 hours before bringing it inside, this will eliminate most of the gas fumes, and there will be no fumes after a few more hours.

Even with all these precautions, some of the gas will wick up through the felt and you will notice areas on the back side of the sweatband that have dried out white. Re-treat with Lexol. All of these precautions should minimize damage to the sweatband, but there is no hope for a truly dry-rotted sweat. A sure sign of dry rot is when the leather cracks open or splits apart from the hat, ripping a straight line near the stitches - but the stitches themselves remain intact along with the adjacent leather. IF the sweat has dry-rotted, this process dooms you to replace the sweat. Not a terrible outcome, as a dry-rotted sweat cannot be supple and will never be satisfactory anyway, the only real loss is the vintage markings on it.

credit due to Luke Hattley, cactus@bellsouth.net , for sharing his knowledge about sweatband treatment with those of us that met at the Peabody in Memphis in October.

NOTHING lives through the gas bath; be sure to wear some appropriate gloves to protect yourself, don't splash into your eyes, and of course, NO SMOKING!!!!

 

[toobacat]

I have been using Coleman fuel for quite a while to clean hats, and recently my Daughter gave me a copy of "Scientific Hat Finishing and Renovating" by Henry L. Ermatinger, a 2006 reprint of the 1919 original. In it, gasoline is the primary cleaner, though the proper method was to remove the sweatband before placing them into the overnight gasoline bath.

I first treat the sweatband with Lexol (commonly in auto parts stores for seat leather) - on the smooth side first (especially at the stitches) and after an hour or so - gently turn out the sweat and begin treating the back side which will absorb much more Lexol (again, especially near the stitches). The sweatband treatment may take 2-3 iterations on the backside, allowing a day inbetween, until it no longer dries out fully but remains slightly moist.

Pour some of the fuel into a low pan, maybe 2 inches deep, and set the crown of the hat in it, letting the gas seep into the crown. Pour some of the fuel into a small plastic cup and then use that to pour directly into the crown to speed this process. Pick up the hat a few inches, letting the fuel seep through the liner and felt and drip back into the pan. Tilt it around to get the fuel almost to the sweatband (BUT NOT TOUCHING THE SWEATBAND) to insure all the felt is saturated. The fuel really helps clean out the grease that has settled into the old crease lines in the crown, setting you up to reshape the crown as you please later. After there is no longer any 'standing' gas in the crown, tilt the pan up a little and dip the brim, moving the hat around to saturate all of the brim also. Set it outside to dry out about 4 hours before bringing it inside, this will eliminate most of the gas fumes, and there will be no fumes after a few more hours.

Even with all these precautions, some of the gas will wick up through the felt and you will notice areas on the back side of the sweatband that have dried out white. Re-treat with Lexol. All of these precautions should minimize damage to the sweatband, but there is no hope for a truly dry-rotted sweat. A sure sign of dry rot is when the leather cracks open or splits apart from the hat, ripping a straight line near the stitches - but the stitches themselves remain intact along with the adjacent leather. IF the sweat has dry-rotted, this process dooms you to replace the sweat. Not a terrible outcome, as a dry-rotted sweat cannot be supple and will never be satisfactory anyway, the only real loss is the vintage markings on it.

credit due to Luke Hattley, cactus@bellsouth.net , for sharing his knowledge about sweatband treatment with those of us that met at the Peabody in Memphis in October.

NOTHING lives through the gas bath; be sure to wear some appropriate gloves to protect yourself, don't splash into your eyes, and of course, NO SMOKING!!!!

I would like to try this, but how do you dispose of the Coleman fuel when you are finished? Will this work for getting spot stains out of a hat without dunking the whole hat in the fuel?

 

[Rick Blaine]

I would like to try this, but how do you dispose of the Coleman fuel when you are finished? Will this work for getting spot stains out of a hat without dunking the whole hat in the fuel?

You can try using this f/ spot cleaning but often you will end up with a spot that is now cleaner & lighter than the rest of the hat. In fact I have seen antique bottles labled gasoline cleaning solution.

I am loathe to admit that I use the used fuel to start the charcoal in my outdoor grill...um,mmm good.

Also from Wikipedia:
Early uses
Before internal-combustion engines were invented in the mid 19th century, gasoline was sold in small bottles as a treatment against lice and their eggs. At that time, the word Petrol was a trade name. This treatment method is no longer common, because of the inherent fire hazard and the risk of dermatitis.

In the U.S., gasoline was also sold as a cleaning fluid to remove grease stains from clothing. ... Gasoline was also used in kitchen ranges and for lighting, and is still available in a highly purified form, known as camping fuel or white gas, for use in lanterns and portable stoves.

 

[Roadrunner]

I would like to try this, but how do you dispose of the Coleman fuel when you are finished? Will this work for getting spot stains out of a hat without dunking the whole hat in the fuel?

Just leave the fuel in an open container in a ventilated area, it'll evaporate quickly.

 

[Lon Goval]

Just leave the fuel in an open container in a ventilated area, it'll evaporate quickly.

Isn't that putting VOCs into the atmosphere. Something about the "hole in the ozone" deal or greenhouse problem. Would it be better to burn the fuel?

 

[Stoney]

I've great success with fire.
Let the hat on the fire, it burn every kind of sospected insect.lol lol lol
Riccardo.

That's right Riccardo, time to break out the big guns...

fftopic:
BTW.. How are things in Sicilia?



lol lol lol lol lol lol

 

[Mike in Seattle]

Just leave the fuel in an open container in a ventilated area, it'll evaporate quickly.

Why not get a funnel and pour it back into the original container until the next time you need to clean a hat - that is, if the used fuel isn't completely filthy. And I'd think any of the "crud" in it would settle out after a bit of time.

 

[Rick Blaine]

Why not get a funnel and pour it back into the original container until the next time you need to clean a hat - that is, if the used fuel isn't completely filthy. And I'd think any of the "crud" in it would settle out after a bit of time.

You can strain it through a coffee filter or cheesecloth & trap most of the gunk.