Rundown on Ladies 30's and 40's hats.

[Lauren]

Ok, I'll just post info as I find it. Or better yet, maybe we can show off our hats

For now, I found a book on making hats published in 1930. Here's the link

Something I love about thirties hats is that in the beginning they kept the lovely aspects of the 20's cloche, then slowly moved up and away from the head.

Leghorn hats of the 30's looked truly becoming with wide leg trousers at the beach.

And Myrna Loy had the most gloriously obnoxious hats in the Thin Man movies. I always am on the scout for hats like hers!

I'll have to try to track down images later tonight

 

[MissQueenie]

I think the hat project is brilliant. I know hats are usually the last thing I think about when trying to get an outfit together, and the first thing I notice on other people's!

I just made my first hat EVER the other day. It's not a golden era hat by any means, though. My roommate asked me, in desperation, to come up with some sort of regency period bonnet for her in two days for her performance in the opera Tosca. I only said yes because she looked like she was about to cry. It came out really well -- I got to experiement with buckram and sewing silk velvet and satin by hand on something that is very, very 3-d. I also used about a billion miles of ribbon on it. All in all, it is a hilariously prissy little blue-and-gold number. I hated it (I look dreadful in navy) and I thought the ruffles we a little over the top, but my roommate adored it and it looked gorgeous with her costume, especially on stage.

Bah, my point is: now that I've used someone else's hat as a guinnea pig, I may feel ready to tackle my own. Have you used any of the fabulous vogue hat patterns? They look so tempting, but I'm afraid they'll stink once I get them in my hot little hands.

Thoughts?

~ Queenie.

 

[Lauren]

They look absolutely smashing, but I've never even made a hat (aside from ones I've trimmed that were already made and renaissance mob caps)! I'd love to see the way your regency bonnet came out, though! I've been looking into getting buckram and hat wire, and one of these days I'll break down and get some. There's a really clever little hat pattern by Truly Victorian that looks like it could be adapted to fit some 30's and 40's styles. Here's a thread on their message board about how to make hats and example of one someone made.

Hats are always the last thing I think of too! And while I know a general age by looking at a hat, I'm looking for an excuse to learn more. I'm glad you're in with me Miss Queenie!

I took a bunch of photos tonight from old magazines I have, and hopefully I can upload them tomorrow! I'm trying to track the evolution of them, which was worn with what outfit, etc. Plus they're just a really fun accessory!

 

[MissQueenie]

I'm kind of curious about evening hats. Sure, we know hats look fab with suits and day dresses, but what's a girl to do once the sun goes down? If you have any info on that, I would just love you forever!

Michael Levine's in the garment district has buckram by the yard and it's pretty good stuff -- it's on the heavier/coarser side (or maybe I didn't know what to expect?) but it was cheap -- 5/yrd andd I *think* it was 60" wide but don't quote me. I bought 1/2 a yard and still have lots left over from the bonnet. If you're up for it, we might think of organizing a trip to the fashion district for the ladies in the powder room (if anyone is interested). I always over spend when I go down there, especially as I've got something of a stash at the moment anyhow! There are a lot of places that sell ungodly amounts of ribbon and silk flowers and feathers, too. I could always pick up the buckram for you while I'm down there (I live about 10 min away from it) next time and mail it, too. Lemme know!

I can't wait to see the uploads!

~ Queenie

 

[Vanessa]

Watched a fab movie last night - something I hadn't seen in years. . .'The Women' with a delicious Joan Crawford. There's some truly obnoxious hats in that one - resembling bowls, dead chickens & other very un-hatlike shapes. But great for reference.

 

[Lauren]

Ok, here we go.
July 1935

 

[Lauren]

Feb 1936

 

[Lauren]

More from the Feb 1936

 

[Lauren]

June 1937

 

[Lauren]

Fall and Winter 1938-1939

 

[Lauren]

And then my periodicals jump to Spring and Summer 1946 (though I do have much more images from 1936 and a few from 46, but I think I've gone a bit overboard already ) Maybe I can get some help filling in the gaps?

 

[Matt Deckard]

I have about 5 lady's hats, now I need a lady. Here is the roll up.

 

[jitterbugdoll]

Lauren-I can help fill those gaps! I've got some great magazines from 1940-1945. I'll scan a wonderful spread from a 1942 McCall's magazine tonight to add to your thread.

 

[Lauren]

Ooh! That would be wonderful! Thanks, Jitterbugdoll!

 

[Nick Charles]

Great book

I just got his great book from the library, thought it would have more guy stuff in it but it is 99% ladies. Great for hairstlyes and hats. There are actually sections called 30's hairstlyes, 30's hats and the same for the 40's.

check it out.

 

[Brad Bowers]

So what is the 1% guy stuff? Anything of interest?

Brad

 

[scotrace]

Ladies Have Infinite Choices

For we boys, you get fedoras, homburgs, soft caps, panamas, hunting caps and boaters, with stylisitic variations within each type. (leaving out cowboy, military and ballcap styles)
Do the ladies' hat styles even have names? They're endless! And they all seem free-style. Though men's hats seem that way too (to a much lesser extent) until you understand taper, center dent, crown height, c-crown, pinch, ribbon width, pounce, bows, etc.
My wife likes to wear hats, but finding something that doesn't look like a perched barn owl makes it a real challenge...

Ladies' hats (especially newer) also seem to be of much lower quality - thick felts or wools, cheaply woven straw. Or am I wrong about this? It seems a safe assumption that hats for ladies were meant to be seasonal and replaced yearly with the new fashion, while a man bought a hat (same as for suits, shoes, etc) and wore that bad boy till the thing blew off in the river, or stunk too much to tolerate, or the dog got it.
How did a woman buy her hats in the Golden Era? Via catlog, or a visit to the millinery where a one-of-a-kind item was made up on the spot?
This is all very interesting.

 

[Nick Charles]

Well brad

the guy stuff is production photos of the author in various scenes, or publicity stills with men. Worth checking out of the library though.

Are you going to the get together?

 

[MissQueenie]

Hollywood Perspective

How did a woman buy her hats in the Golden Era? Via catlog, or a visit to the millinery where a one-of-a-kind item was made up on the spot?
This is all very interesting.

I recommend watching "Easter Parade" with Fred Astaire and Judy Garland for an interesting look at how ladies' hats were sold (although I'm sure the show rooms were more toned down in real life, with less singing...) In the opening scene, Fred is out shopping for Easter presents for his sweetheart, among which is a new hat for the Easter Parade. A variety of very beautiful models sporting the latest, unique creations (some of which are hilarious -- watch for the "little dutch girl" hat!) parade by for Fred's inspection, as the proprietor describes the virtues of each (hat, that is!). This "performance" aspect of ladies' hat purchasing seems to be fairly common in period films, and I've seen it extend to clothing as well -- I can't tell if this really was a way people purchased high fashion or a hollywood fiction. I'd say as far as the masses are concerned, you local hat shop would have a selection of things made up, you could order from a catalog (like Sears & Roe), or have them made. Of course, there's always the possibility that some gals were making their OWN hats -- what with the depression and all...

I definitely agree that ladies' hats were a seasonal purchase. I've seen enough "How to dress" manuals from the 30s stressing the seasonality of one's wardrobe to drive that home. The idea seems to have been to buy one really high style hat for the season, and wear it til it was out of style (very french concept). Besides, as a lady myself, I can tell you I get minor anxiety attacks at the thought of wearing the same blouse twice in a month. Variety is, after all, the spice of life.

~ Queenie.

 

[Lauren]

Do the ladies' hat styles even have names? They're endless! And they all seem free-style....
My wife likes to wear hats, but finding something that doesn't look like a perched barn owl makes it a real challenge...
Ladies' hats (especially newer) also seem to be of much lower quality - thick felts or wools, cheaply woven straw. Or am I wrong about this? It seems a safe assumption that hats for ladies were meant to be seasonal and replaced yearly with the new fashion, while a man bought a hat (same as for suits, shoes, etc) and wore that bad boy till the thing blew off in the river, or stunk too much to tolerate, or the dog got it.
How did a woman buy her hats in the Golden Era? Via catlog, or a visit to the millinery where a one-of-a-kind item was made up on the spot?
This is all very interesting.

Sure! We have names for hats too, but like you said, there is so much variety that it's hard to keep track of. I will have to go searching through the magazines tonight to see if I can connect names with images. I know the leghorn was a wide brimmed straw hat with an open crown, the Eugenie I believe was a hat with a rounded crown and a swooped brim that pulled away from the face, ladies had panamas and versions of fedoras, we have berets, tams, toppers, pillbox hats (think Jackie-O), etc. It's just connecting the terms with images that's the problem!

I agree that good looking hats are hard to come by. I'm not one for the flowery numbers, but I do like over the top ones (think of the hats the women wore in "The Aviator") or the classy ones (like in Seabuiscuit).

You're right on about the quality too. Hats. like clothes, were often fashion driven, changing season to season (spring, summer, fall, winter), and as such were made of low quality materials, which accounts for them being in rough condition today. They weren't meant to be worn a lifetime. And as with men's hats, the wool ones like to attract moths. Evil buggers.

Women could (in order of wealthy to wanting incomes) have hats made custom by a designer, buy one at a hatter, at department stores, through mail order, or they could make their own. And sisters I'm sure got hand me down hats. I doubt they'd make them up on the spot, however, because women were much more ingenious back then, and if they saw someone making it, chances are they'd copy them and make them themselves!
Good questions! Hopefully we can all learn together