Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Rubber vs. leather sole shoes

  • Thread starter Deleted member 16736
  • Start date

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
Even if no one had ever had a rubber sole fitted in the history of shoes, if people insisted on telling me 'never', I'd do it anyway (1) to find out for myself and (2) just to break their bloody silly rule!

;)

My comments are based solely upon the advice given me by people within the industry. It isn't a 'rule'. And it certainly isn't a style issue. It is simply the advice they give regarding stick on soles. A shoe is designed for a purpose: i.e. to walk in. It is designed with a certain thickness of sole to optimise the comfort and wearability. Adding a stick on sole alters the balance and may cause additional wear on other areas, such as the heel.
It doesn't matter to me whether you, like so many others, chose to go against their advice, I just think it best that people make the choice in full knowledge of the advice available.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,082
Location
London, UK
Interesting - and I don't by any means imply that I doubt it with this - that something so thin could have that effect. I'm not typically hard on shoes - I must have a look and compare the wear patterns on my heels across shoes that have them and those which don't.
 

GoldenEraFan

One Too Many
Messages
1,164
Location
Brooklyn, New York
I tend to like the look and feel of leather soled shoes, but being a New Yorker I walk everywhere so I tend to save my leather soled shoes for either very nice days or formal occasions. Rubber soles also last longer which is good if you don't have the budget to take shoes to the cobbler. While leather soles are nicer to look at then rubber, I've come to realize that people don't see the soles that often when your out and about, and if the rest of the shoe looks like any classic dress shoe, that's good enough for me. I've been quite happy with the look and feel of the "Benton" cap toe from Allen Edmond.

http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF3408_1_40000000001_-1
 

wdw

One Too Many
Messages
1,260
Location
Edinburgh
I now keep leather soles for dry days only. I got my first decent leather soled pair about 15 months ago, wore them for a week's solid walking in NYC (miles every day) including in rain, put them away for a month when I got back then found that one sole was completely split open.

I sent them back to the manufacturer thinking it was a fault, but they said that I must have used them extensively in wet conditions and not let them dry out properly, which was correct.

I've since bought rubber soled shoes and boots for wet conditions and another leather soled pair for alternating on dry days. Since my big mistake I've read a lot about how to treat quality footwear, most of which has been said here, with the best advice being never to wear good shoes two days in a row.

If leather soles do get damp, I always let them dry on their sides or on a rack, as the soles won't dry properly if standing upright.
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
Rubber soles tend to always hold in more moisture for me. I've worn rubber and leather, and rubber will always be more comfortable when it comes to running around and needing traction, but leather does have the dance advantage and it's just dressier. We've come to a point in history where rubber soled shoes are beginning to be acceptable in the most formal occasions. I'm not completely against this since the things we love from the past are about innovation in their own way. The suit coat as it is is a shortened frock coat that was looked down upon as very informal. I think that rubber soled shoes are fine as long as they aren't obnoxiously taking away from the dressy appearance of your wears.

Allen Edmonds makes a few styles with rubber soles that I would love to have just for their utility.

Even this modern day Broadstreet goes quite well with a suit at tie. Not a tux, but a good suit and tie. It's kind of a sport jacket of a shoe. works with jeans or dressier.
allenedmonds_shoes_broadstreet-webgem_navy-grey_l.jpg
 
Messages
10,940
Location
My mother's basement
A shoe repairman of my acquaintance recommends against leather soles, except for those shoes that see very little if any wear out of doors. He reasons that in this generally damp climate, leather provides too little grip and it wears out too quickly to be practical for most "real world" use. If we were in a dryer, sunnier locale, he says, he might feel differently.
 
Last edited:

GoldenEraFan

One Too Many
Messages
1,164
Location
Brooklyn, New York
I do know that thick rugged looking rubber soles definitely date back to the 1930's. I've seen two examples of them, one pair worn by a Hollywood tour guide and another by the famous animator Ub Iwerks. I would imagine they were more popular on the West Coast due to the more "casual" atmosphere.
 

wdw

One Too Many
Messages
1,260
Location
Edinburgh
persnick, my great might not be yours, but I have these two:
http://www.lyst.com/shoes/trickers-burgundy-commando-brogue-bourton-shoes/
http://test.crockettandjones.co.uk/Product/Islay-Bronze

The shoes are very solid indeed and a huge leap in quality from similar leather soled burgundy Grensons I have, although the Grensons are an almost perfect match for Horween cordovan jackets.

The boots are lighter than the shoes, and feel more comfortable because of that. I also like the relatively high leg and the fact that the speed lacing hooks start in exactly the right place. I was wearing these in snow today and would never have worn leather soles in these conditions.
 
D

Deleted member 16736

Guest
Does anyone have experience with the Allen Edmonds combination tap (v tread) sole? They will put one on a Leeds for $25.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,082
Location
London, UK

Those Trickers are nice... I have a pair of John Whites that are a very similar design indeed - great in the wet.

The shoes are very solid indeed and a huge leap in quality from similar leather soled burgundy Grensons I have, although the Grensons are an almost perfect match for Horween cordovan jackets.

Ha! I have a pair of Barkers that are a dead ringer for the shade of my Aero Bootlegger in Cordovan, love wearing those together. Alays had good experiences with Grenson, too. Trickers are really something else, though, if you can find them at the right price. Most of the ones I've seen have been like a more formal equivalent to Red Wings, sort of. If you follow me...

The boots are lighter than the shoes, and feel more comfortable because of that. I also like the relatively high leg and the fact that the speed lacing hooks start in exactly the right place. I was wearing these in snow today and would never have worn leather soles in these conditions.

Yes, those look really nice. More rubber-sole shoes are my target for the next couple of years.... More rubber soles, and hopefully in particular a ouple of pairs of co-respondents with rubber soles (hard to find, at least decent quality ones).

I now keep leather soles for dry days only.

Not always possible, I find, given our changeable climate, but yes, that's the ideal. And why I need to up my rubber-count.

Does anyone have examples of great looking rubber soled shoes? The only nice ones I've seen are done by Herring....otherwise Allen Edmonds rubber soles usually are ugly.

Personally, I find leather soles impractical for winter weather in my neck of the woods. Why anyone not in a dry climate would put up with leather is beyond me.

I think most of the big names now do nice rubber-soled versions of their shoes, which look much the same. Charles Tyrwhitt have some lovely shoes with rubber soles (likely Herrings rebranded), but I've seen plenty of others from Grenson / Barker / Church's, and all the other usual suspects.

http://www.ctshirts.co.uk/men's-sho...?q=gbpdefault||ML096BLK||||8,|||||||||&ppp=27
 

wdw

One Too Many
Messages
1,260
Location
Edinburgh
Edward, the Trickers are the heaviest shoes I've ever known, other than hiking boots. Solid is putting it mildly, but really well put together. They're really in-yer-face but I like them so much I'm keeping my eye open for some of Trickers other retailer-specific colourways. They seem to do short and different runs for certain retailers such as Herring and Shoe Healer and the quality is worth paying for.

After the earlier references about Allen Edmonds I had a look at their site and they seem to have some interesting things there, especially the cordovans. Luckliy I'll be in NYC in October, so will take the chance to visit their store there.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,082
Location
London, UK
Edward, the Trickers are the heaviest shoes I've ever known, other than hiking boots. Solid is putting it mildly, but really well put together. They're really in-yer-face but I like them so much I'm keeping my eye open for some of Trickers other retailer-specific colourways. They seem to do short and different runs for certain retailers such as Herring and Shoe Healer and the quality is worth paying for.

After the earlier references about Allen Edmonds I had a look at their site and they seem to have some interesting things there, especially the cordovans. Luckliy I'll be in NYC in October, so will take the chance to visit their store there.

Yes, Trickers are fantastic - just unfortunately out of my budget for the most part. One day...

AS for shopping in the US, that's a great idea. I'v e had my eye on a pair of Alden Indys for a long time. Here in the UK they're reaching GBP400; in the US, they can be had for not much over half that. Same for a lot of things (tempted by a Schott 613 or 618 - averaging GBP100-150 cheaper, new, in the US). I'm toying with the idea of a holiday out there at some point. One with plenty of money and an empty suitcase on the way out....
 

cordwangler

One of the Regulars
Messages
187
Location
UK
Get yourself to the Trickers store on Jermyn Street for their yearly sale. I've got some great bargains there, a couple at less than half list price.
 

jkingrph

Practically Family
Messages
848
Location
Jacksonville, Tx, West Monroe, La.
Generally speaking, I prefer leather soles, especially the Allen Edmonds with the extra thick soles they call "double oak". I used to stand for extended periods and found them quite comfortable. Leather seems to be better if you are walking on a carpeted area as they do not seem to grab and hold like rubber, and leather seems less slippery on wet vinyl or polished floor surfaces.

I recently got a pair of Allen Edmonds chukka boots with rubber soles and like them very well.
 
D

Deleted member 16736

Guest
Generally speaking, I prefer leather soles, especially the Allen Edmonds with the extra thick soles they call "double oak". I used to stand for extended periods and found them quite comfortable. Leather seems to be better if you are walking on a carpeted area as they do not seem to grab and hold like rubber, and leather seems less slippery on wet vinyl or polished floor surfaces.

I recently got a pair of Allen Edmonds chukka boots with rubber soles and like them very well.

I've also decided on Allen Edmonds shoes: Leeds, Bradley, and Shelton. They have very nice spectator shoes called Broadstreet. I'll probably go leather soles. I feel they'll have a cleaner look. When it's wet, I'll wear boots or use swims. AE will put on half-soles, but it's a custom change and the shoes are non-returnable.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,082
Location
London, UK
Generally speaking, I prefer leather soles, especially the Allen Edmonds with the extra thick soles they call "double oak". I used to stand for extended periods and found them quite comfortable. Leather seems to be better if you are walking on a carpeted area as they do not seem to grab and hold like rubber, and leather seems less slippery on wet vinyl or polished floor surfaces.

I recently got a pair of Allen Edmonds chukka boots with rubber soles and like them very well.

Is that a typo? I find the opposite. I prefer leather in the abstract myself, but I've really been appreciating my rubber soles recently.
 

hgrail

New in Town
Messages
6
Location
Ct
I've switched over to rubber from leather over the last 10 years. I've found the rubber soles withstand the weather better (especially in the Northeast) and they are more comfortable for walking and standing. I've also found that I seem to wear through leather soles quickly which was annoying.
I've migrated over to several pairs of Ecco shoes and enjoy them immensely. I also agree with the rotation bit - with any type of shoe.
 

Foxer55

A-List Customer
Messages
413
Location
Washington, DC
I prefer leather, especially on dress shoes because changing back and forth causes problems. If I wear the rubber soles I need to constantly be aware they grip immediately while leather soles have an adaptive grip. If I'm rushing and think I have leather soles on and make a fast step I'll go straight down on my face as the rubber sole grips instantly. Its that high coefficient of friction, ya know...? I haven't seen many quality dress shoes with rubber soles. I do have some nice Bostonians I wear for work and the shoe maker offered to replace the rubber half sole when I had the heels done. Do it. I'll tolerate rubber soles on boots because they're boots and will be in the elements more. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
109,310
Messages
3,078,570
Members
54,243
Latest member
seeldoger47
Top