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Review Thedi Memphis Cocoa Toscano

jr30

One of the Regulars
Messages
115
Location
Switzerland
Ladies and Gentlemen,

[Introduction]
Maybe some of you can relate: you already have a few leather jackets in your collection, yet the urge for something new just won’t go away. Luckily, my wife is very understanding when it comes to my leather jacket obsession :)

Since I already own two Thedi jackets—one in black horsehide and one in cognac buffalo leather have been thoroughly impressed with their craftsmanship, I decided to go for another Thedi.

My collection was still missing a brown half-belt jacket. I wanted something subtle—nothing flashy—but a solid daily wear piece that keeps me warm while looking good. My cognac buffalo leather jacket is more of a statement piece due to its color, but the leather is simply incredible. It's vegetable-tanned water buffalo leather, offering the perfect balance between durability and softness. It conforms nicely to the body, and its weight gives it a premium feel. I had the same expectations for my new Thedi in chocolate-like brown, and I was not disappointed.

01.jpeg

[Leather]
Once again, Thedi used vegetable-tanned Italian water buffalo leather for this jacket. The smell is fantastic, and the way Theodoros selects and processes the leather is simply outstanding. The texture, color, and craftsmanship are all perfectly in sync.

I love the subtle vintage effects. Although the jacket feels brand new, it has a well-worn look, as if it has already seen a few years of wear. It doesn’t look sterile or like a fashion accessory, but at the same time, it’s not overly distressed or outdated. It’s a perfect middle ground.

A closer look reveals the meticulous attention to detail in every stitch. Nothing is left to chance—everything feels sturdy, robust, and built to last. At least, that’s what I keep telling my wife so she understands why I "invest" in these jackets ;).

The feel, texture, and grain of the leather are stunning. My cognac/tan Thedi was already remarkable in this regard, and this model follows suit.

[Color]
This one is tricky to describe. I was initially worried that the jacket might lean too much toward a reddish tone, but that’s not the case with my particular batch. However, I’ve noticed that there seem to be variations. My jacket is generally perceived as a warm dark brown, but depending on the lighting, it can shift toward a reddish-brown hue. The depth and uniqueness of this color are truly exceptional, and the name “Cocoa” is a perfect fit. The hand-dyed process ensures that the color transitions smoothly without any patchy or blotchy areas.

It’s worth mentioning that when looking at Thedi’s official website, you might get the impression that the vintage look is much stronger. However, my jacket’s distressing is far more subtle than what’s shown on their website. My lighter cognac/tan Thedi has a more pronounced aged effect, which is likely due to its lighter color.

[Fit]
Thanks to my previous experience with Thedi jackets, I was able to request an in-stock item from Thurston Bros. Carrie from Thurston Bros. checked the measurements against my body dimensions, and I must say—this is by far the most comfortable leather jacket I’ve ever worn.

Some people prefer shorter, tighter fits, but for me, a jacket needs to be comfortable from the get-go. I’ve had my fair share of stiff leather—my first “proper” leather jacket was an Aero made of Chromexcel FQHH. Heavy, stiff (to this day), and beautiful—but not exactly an easy everyday option. That said, I still wear it on occasion.

[Pattern]
Thedi truly excels at crafting well-balanced patterns. Even if a jacket’s fit isn’t 100% perfect, it will still look good on the wearer.

This jacket follows the classic half-belt design with side adjusters for waist regulation. It features an inside pistol-shaped pocket (rectangular on the inside) and an external chest pocket with a zipper. Additionally, there are two lined hand-warmer pockets on the sides. The olive-green cotton lining complements the chocolate brown leather beautifully. One noteworthy detail is the two-way zipper, which allows the jacket to be unzipped from the bottom—useful when driving.

The hardware is brass with a muted golden tone—not flashy or gaudy. Overall, the jacket is understated and easy to style. The only real design accents are the leather straps on the sleeves, which allow for slight tightening. The back pleat provides extra mobility, particularly when raising the arms forward (such as when riding a motorcycle).

[Photos & Wear Impression]
This Thedi is fresh out of the box, completely unworn. The leather still holds its original shape but is already very comfortable to wear. I also noticed that, when brand new, it slightly transfers color onto light-colored shirt collars. I hope this is normal for vegetable-tanned leather and will fade with time. (Any tips on this?)

Since I was looking for an everyday jacket that works in most casual settings, I didn’t want anything too tight or too short. Others may prefer a snugger, shorter fit and opt for a made-to-order piece instead. Thedi’s default pattern features a slightly dropped front. In the pictures, I’m wearing only a T-shirt underneath, but there’s room for a light sweater—though probably not a thick one. The sleeves could be a tad shorter, but I expect them to settle in once the leather creases. That’s just nitpicking, though, as this is an off-the-rack jacket.

The photos were taken indoors on todays cloudy afternoon without any additional light with my iPhone. In real life, the leather looks much better and less shiny than in the pictures.

05.jpeg

[Measurements]
Body Measurements (wearing a T-Shirt and Jeans with belt):
Size / Weight: 5'11 / 183 - 187 lbs (180cm / 83 - 85kg)
Back length -- 25.50
Sleeve length -- 25.75
Pit-to-pit (1/2) -- 20.50 relaxed (41" chest)
Shoulder -- 19.00
Waist/bottom hem (1/2) -- 20.50

Jacket Measurements:
Thedi Label "XL"
Back length -- 25.5
Sleeve length -- 26.25
Pit-to-pit -- 23.25
Shoulder -- 19.00
Waist/bottom hem -- 21.25

I’m not a native English speaker, so please excuse any awkward phrasing. I hope I did justice to this beautiful Thedi!

I’m open to any honest feedback—what do you think of this model? If I forgot anything important, feel free to ask.
Thank you for your attention.

Best regards,
Roman
 

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Herrvallmo

Practically Family
Messages
649
Location
Sweden
Amazing write-up mate, and the jacket fits you amazing!

It's a wonderful jacket and the buffalo leather Theodoros uses may take the top spot on my personal "favorite leather-list" as it's just gorgeous and having a robust feel without being to stiff :)

Cheers!
 
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jr30

One of the Regulars
Messages
115
Location
Switzerland
Nice! In regards to leather feel, hand, etc. which do you prefer best between your thedi jackets and why?
That's a great question, and I’ll do my best to articulate my thoughts.

I think it really depends on the occasion:

Thedi1.jpg
My first Thedi is made of horsehide, medium-weight, and black. Its shape, slightly shorter fit (for me), and color make it quite a versatile piece, depending on how it's styled. For example, in a fully monochromatic look—either all black or dark gray—it almost gives off an artist-like vibe. I wore it to an art vernissage in Vienna, and it blended in seamlessly. When paired with jeans—like in the photos I posted—it takes on a more all-around character. However, the buttons and shawl collar give it a historical flair. The horsehide broke in remarkably fast, developed a beautiful sheen, and is incredibly comfortable to wear. My initial concerns about stiffness faded within a few weeks. Compared to my Aero FQHH Chromexcel... well, that's a whole different story.


Thedi2.jpg
My second Thedi is made of medium-weight buffalo leather (water buffalo) in a cognac/tan shade. From the very first wear, it felt noticeably more comfortable than the horsehide, though it doesn’t soften much over time. But it doesn’t need to—it’s not rigid or stiff, just structured, and gradually molds to the wearer’s shape over the months. I don’t think that process is fully complete yet, as it spent most of the winter in the closet. That’s about to change now that temperatures are rising. The buffalo leather has a slight stretch to it—not like stretch denim, of course—but it does have a bit of give in all directions, which is hard to describe.

I’ll be wearing it in Greece this spring—not because it originates from there, but because Greeks appreciate quality leather goods, and it blends well into the cityscape. While other tourists walk around in their technical jackets, I’ll be in my cognac/tan Thedi. That’s not a style clash, is it?

One thing I’ve noticed—this lighter-colored Thedi has a stronger vintage character. Theodoros' "relicing method" gives it a subtly worn-in look at the edges, but in a refined and non-gimmicky way. What I hadn’t anticipated when purchasing it is that this jacket is more of a statement piece than I initially intended. It really stands out—probably due to its lighter shade—and sometimes I struggle to find the perfect outfit to pair it with.

I like wearing it in a more urban style—beige sneakers (Old Skool), rather than boots, paired with a casual T-shirt or an eggshell-colored linen shirt. To me, it radiates springtime energy.


Thedi3.jpeg
The latest addition—my third Thedi—is a chocolatey brown with a subtle red undertone, made from the same buffalo leather I’m already familiar with. So, I know (hope) what to expect in terms of feel and characteristics. The color, the half-belt cut, and the fact that it has a proper collar (instead of a shawl collar) make it my "go-to everyday" jacket—which is exactly what I was looking for. Dark brown works for a wide range of casual occasions. I don’t have much experience with it yet, as it only arrived a few hours ago. But I’ve already been wearing it around the house. My wife keeps asking if I’m cold. :)

Hope this answers your questions to some extent. By the way, at 54 y/o, I can say that my love for leather jackets has been with me since my teenage years—and it’s still going strong.

Have a great Sunday,
Roman
 
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