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Report: Bowler hat from Lock & Co

londonboy

Familiar Face
Messages
63
Location
London
Thank you to Matt Deckard and the others who replied to my previous thread. Thank you also to Topper for contacting me, although I was just so busy after the holidays that I ended up unable to call him to chat about the history of bowlers at a reasonable hour.

I decided that I wanted to purchase a bowler hat, and felt that good ones in my size simply did not appear on eBay. Further, because of their stiffness, I was willing to pay more to ensure a perfect fit, in addition to quality.

This led me to Lock & Co, and I was all the more attracted by the prospect of making a purchase from the store that first carried the bowler and that has the privilege of selling hats with two royal warrants in their lining.

I was assisted by Mei and the staff has always been both warm and proud of their history. Display some sophistication and they will smile and show you the hats of Nelson and Wellington behind a corner, along with the Queen's hat block.

I first conveyed to Mei my dislike for the more modern curved brim in their present bowlers. The default style is to have a gentle curve from end to end, and this is evident in the front of the brim. I took Matt Deckard's advice to heart and asked if they could make a bowler with a flat brim, with the sides displaying a pronounced curl.

Mei replied that they could redo the brim to taste in ten to fifteen minutes, but she wanted to be sure what it was I wanted. In her opinion, more recent customers preferred the gentle curve although it was purely a matter of personal style. She took me to the inside room where one of the first bowler prototypes from about 1850 was displayed in a locked cabinet, and asked if I wanted something closer to that. I did not have Roetzel's book with me where the page on Lock & Co contains a photo of the bowler with the flat brim, but was able to express what I had in mind by bending the brim with my fingers.

She set off to heat the hat and reshape it. First, however, she opened another cabinet and brought out the conformateur, also from around 1850. The spikes on the device punched holes into a more modern piece of white paper, which Mei then cut into a scale cross-section of my head. The paper was then placed inside the conformer, which acted like a primitve computer that reproduced my head shape in its actual size. The conformer was then placed inside the bowler, making evident the gaps Mei observed when I put on the hat.

While waiting, I went next door to discuss my current order with Mr. Jonathan Lobb. I returned after ten minutes and sure enough, the slightly warm hat fit perfectly. Men wiser than I have stated on this forum that there is a difference between a hatmaker and a hatter, and this experience clearly demonstrated the latter's value. As skilled as the custom makers often recommended here are, there are inherent limitations in mail orders. Further, although many are confident enough to heat and change the bash of their fedoras, I am not as keen to experiment with a stiff bowler.

The reshaping was done so quickly that I was able to cross the street with my new hat in time for my haircut and shave at Truefitt.

I hope you enjoy the photos taken from the fitting as well as the close ups of my new Lock bowler in all its furry glory.

Thank you once again to all for your contributions towards this marvelous experience.

lockbowlersa8.jpg


The photos do not come out in the full size.



london20080112lockbowlebh5.jpg


 

AlanC

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,175
Location
Heart of America
Congratulations on the purchase, londonboy. It looks like you got what you wanted, and it's a very handsome hat.
 

scotrace

Head Bartender
Staff member
Messages
14,392
Location
Small Town Ohio, USA
You've spent a day in heavenly pursuits few of us will ever know. A bowler fitting at Lock, clothes from Lobb, and a shave from T&H. Extraordinary.
 

David Conwill

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,854
Location
Bennington, VT 05201
Matt Deckard said:
All that info is well and good and I'm really happy you have your hat... I want to see it on a head!

Much agreed! With what does one wear a bowler? I'm thinking black business suit and a black tie, but perhaps that would make you look too much like someone's footman or a mid-level bureaucrat in the '60s.

-Dave
 

londonboy

Familiar Face
Messages
63
Location
London
My superiors recommend a pink shirt, pinstripe shoes and Church's shoes. However, I the current Church's are hideous, and I imagine anything you can put a dress overcoat or trench coat over will do.

I am pondering whether the bowler might go with a dressy sport coat or blazer, but perhaps only on weekdays.

I am open to suggestions on the matching wardrobe, but the Brigg umbrella is of course a given.
 

londonboy

Familiar Face
Messages
63
Location
London
David Conwill said:
With what does one wear a bowler? I'm thinking black business suit and a black tie
Dark charcoal certainly, but perhaps not black.

You grossly underestimate the British sense of subdued flair and colorful shirts, my friend.
 

londonboy

Familiar Face
Messages
63
Location
London
Matt Deckard said:
All that info is well and good and I'm really happy you have your hat... I want to see it on a head!
All in good time; I am a rather reclusive sort. Does the brim shape meet with your approval? I valued your comments very highly as the original brim had less character, and I was not inclined to make the purchase until they promised they could reshape it to taste. I was sold the moment they brought out the conformateure from retirement.

I wonder if the conformateure has any benefit for fedoras. I had a discussion with Marc Kitter, whose experience appears to be in the negative. Thus, it appears that one benefits from this old world treatment only with a bowler, or perhaps a top hat?
 

londonboy

Familiar Face
Messages
63
Location
London
scotrace said:
clothes from Lobb
My thanks, but I must make a clarification lest I be mistaken for the sort who stays out till the wee hours in tight leather pants. I am afraid that I move in... different circles.

If one ever visits Truefitt, Trumper's or Taylor's, I do advise that one make the appointment for the shave as it is a uniquely British experience. The haircut is less distinguished in these places, but many other less storied establishments also charge 30 quid for a shave. One may even have a shaving lesson in lieu of a shave.

To add, consider this recent photo of Lock bowlers and Brigg umbrellas. I did not like how the current brim looked, and the change I requested is quite obvious when one compares the photos.

01-prince-harry-bowler-hat.jpg
 

londonboy

Familiar Face
Messages
63
Location
London
To be honest, I did not bother to ask and risk an awkward conversation. The hat was obviously of better felt than anything else they had in the store, and I needed Lock to both fit the hat on me and to take home a piece of unique British history.
 

mineral

One of the Regulars
Messages
136
Location
Boston, MA
londonboy said:
To be honest, I did not bother to ask and risk an awkward conversation. The hat was obviously of better felt than anything else they had in the store, and I needed Lock to both fit the hat on me and to take home a piece of unique British history.

Thanks for your report on the bowler! I still think you should have gone with a trilby/fedora as you first posted in the forum. :)

And yes, even if the answer you could have received about the origins of the bowler wasn't one you liked, it's not like you had much of a choice anyway in this entire world where you can go in and buy a bowler with a curl you specify ....
 

londonboy

Familiar Face
Messages
63
Location
London
mineral said:
Thanks for your report on the bowler! I still think you should have gone with a trilby/fedora as you first posted in the forum. :)
Thank you. I only stated that I purchased a bowler, and that I did not have as high an opinion of the other felt hats in Lock's inventory. Note that nowhere did I state that I did not purchase a fedora as well.
 

mineral

One of the Regulars
Messages
136
Location
Boston, MA
londonboy said:
Thank you. I only stated that I purchased a bowler, and that I did not have as high an opinion of the other felt hats in Lock's inventory. Note that nowhere did I state that I did not purchase a fedora as well.

Thanks for your reply! If you acquired a fedora too, do please share some pictures. :)
 

londonboy

Familiar Face
Messages
63
Location
London
Allow me to first decide whether I am as satisfied with it and if I wish to change the bash.

Since someone mentioned that the bowler might have come from the Czech Republic, might someone know a good hatter in Prague? I suddenly wonder whether this sort of old world service, minus the royal warrants, would be available in Eastern Europe as well, or whether no one would stock the hat there and the language barrier would be insurmountable.
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
To me it's not a bulbous as the ones on the princes. The curl on the edge is much better than those I have seen on bowlers from the 30's and 40's. From the pic of the princes... it looks like a different hat. Theirs look vintage in block and in the curl.

The style you have looks a little more like early early bowlers with a bit of a wider brim and a crown that has more of a bowl taper which may totally balance out with your face shape.

How about some images from a bit further away and at some different angles?


Also ... with bowlers by nature being stiff a conformature is truly what was needed for the great fit.

Fedoras don't really need a conformature fit as being soft they are meant to wobble about over the crannys of your skull. It ads panache!
 

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