Recommended blogs & resources to learn about leather jackets

[Nacho]

the Top tier being Himel Bros

Dang, that name is forbidden here. It's He-Who-Must-Not-Be-Named.

Tread lightly or you're gonna open a can of worms, friend!

 

[Jasonissm]

What is Motor New Vintage jacket? You got a pic or link?

LEATHER JACKET (レザージャケット)

www.motostyle.jp

Saw these in their Aoyama store, quite nice, but not a fan of the styling so I didn't look at them too closely. I'm a big fan of their boots and shoes though, probably will pick something up soon, their boots are made by a separate company and I believe they do the finishing and dyeing themselves, I wonder if they do the whole thing for the jackets.

 

[livioli]

What is Motor New Vintage jacket? You got a pic or link?

My votes goes to either FW La Brea or RC Ponyboy. The Centinela is cool but a bit hard to wear on a daily basis. There was one posted here. You can just search for it. You'd always have to wear it closed to make it work which isn't very practical for the one jacket. You're in London and can go check out the RMC Buco version, its not the same, but both very cool jackets.

Between the La Brea and the Ponyboy the Ponyboy is easier to pull off on a daily basis. Because no belt dangling and the main zipper is easier to live with. I have one, and there's a member here Dublinpremium he has two or three of the Ponyboy, look him up.

With Rainbow Country you can reach out to him on Facebook or Instagram, and ask him if there are any stocks of the Ponyboy in any one of his dealers. I am sure the Standard Workwear store have them in stock, maybe some other smaller shops too like Fresno. Just check. If you do go to the Standard Workwear store, can you take some photo of his fighter plane in the hanger? There is a Rainbow Country Single Rider thread here. Look that up for his dealer info.

With Freewheelers, there is no new stock anywhere. You would have to go to any of the vintage / reseller stores and ask them to put out an WTB ad for a NOS one. Be prepare to pay up to 400000 yen for one. I have a Fountainhead one and I am 99% certain it was the pattern from the Bootlegger days when they did that jacket in goatskin and narrower square shoulder. I do prefer the wide A2 shoulder version from FW era. Sleeves aren't long on the La Brea, so watch out for that. When I get my Bill Kelso one I will do a compare of all three.

The Fine Creek Leon No star is really a 150000 yen jacket in Japan, the RC and the FW are 200000 yen plus jackets. The big difference is the leather. I just don't think the current FC Leon is made with Shinki. I have not seen any blog in Japan saying they are. Only say Hemiji, not Shinki. Yes Shinki is in Hemiji and the Nita family owns like half the town, but the Leon leather looks brown not black like the Shinki teacore I know. I think that's where the price difference is at. If Shinki leather why would they (a business for profit) sell for much less. Just my theory. I am still on the look out for a deerskin Leon no star. But I don't rate the horsehide Leon as high. If I can find a used horsehide Leon in my size I would go for it just to see what's the difference. But just from photos I get a bit confused.

I would put Double Helix in the same group as Fine Creek. I have a DH Flag Waver jacket. It's good, but its still a new brand. And the horsehide is not as black as Shinki, more steel grey.

Tenjin works I know very little about. I had an opportunity to get one on the used market. But the seller wanted too much for it. Which brings me to this point. Look up the actual resale prices in Japan. You can do this usually just by googling the jacket model number, and find the aucfree website pages of that jacket. It will say how much and when it was sold. This gives you a different perspective on the new brand/jacket you're looking at.

If you are in London, maybe check out an Aero CXL jacket in one of their London dealers. And get a hand feel of RMC Shinki jacket in person. I think after this little field trip, you may become a two jacket guy, one CXL and one Shinki. Or not. Some USA makers also uses CXL. But the key is CXL, and thinner weight, like 2.5oz. CXL and Shinki are the two top horsehide leathers imo. This is my personal opinion so your experience may vary. But it doesn't hurt to see them both in person in the same setting. No words can describe.

Good luck and remember to post whatever jacket you end up with after your Japan trip.

Thanks so much for your in-depth opinion Canuck!

I believe Moto(r) is a pretty old Japanese company, but it's lesser known outside of Japan. They use Horsehide leather from Italy.

The Ponyboy is definitely one of my favorite contenders, although it seems slightly long on the torso. Tenjin is cool but I think they only use Steerhide.

I'll mostly definitely check out the CXL. Although the tea-core aging of the Shinki just has me mesmerised.

 

[livioli]

Dang, that name is forbidden here. It's He-Who-Must-Not-Be-Named.

Tread lightly or you're gonna open a can of worms, friend!

Oops haha.

If I may, what happened?

 

[Canuck Panda]

http://[URL]https://www.motostyle.jp/collections/jacket

[/URL]

Saw these in their Aoyama store, quite nice, but not a fan of the styling so I didn't look at them too closely. I'm a big fan of their boots and shoes though, probably will pick something up soon, their boots are made by a separate company and I believe they do the finishing and dyeing themselves, I wonder if they do the whole thing for the jackets.

Thanks, it does ring a bell now. I remember seeing this on JCSDs instagram post.
The pattern sizing looks very similar to Cushman. Size L has 20” shoulder and 22” P2P but only 24” back and sleeves. Same with the Dappers Trojan repro, another micro brand. And both uses Maryam.
I see that the Izumiya High Notch guy is following the account. Interesting.

 

[navetsea]

I think finecreek is mostly hated because of Leon custom, the way they cut the epaulette and belt leaving behind a piece of stub raw pieces as if it's an extra value and how the jacket is tubular and long on the body for a cross zip and their version of vanson racer jacket that also made too long, their other models seems alright, their slant pocket cafe racer looks really nice, and their leather "denim jacket" models are also fine.

 

[livioli]

@Canuck Panda btw you mentioned that you missed the Ponyboy restock. When was that? Worse case, I'll wait for their next restock, if it's not too far away.

 

[Nacho]

Oops haha.

If I may, what happened?

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/himel-bros-jacket-1st-winter-update.110725/

There are more threads if you do a search on the forum. Enjoy!

 

[Canuck Panda]

Ponyboy has the

Thanks so much for your in-depth opinion Canuck!

I believe Moto(r) is a pretty old Japanese company, but it's lesser known outside of Japan. They use Horsehide leather from Italy.

The Ponyboy is definitely one of my favorite contenders, although it seems slightly long on the torso. Tenjin is cool but I think they only use Steerhide.

I'll mostly definitely check out the CXL. Although the tea-core aging of the Shinki just has me mesmerised.

typical RC )( look. its also the most livable jacket compared to your other choices. Most RC and FW jackets has the full flannel lining even in the sleeves, but the pony boy is just rayon lined so easy on and off. I’m a big fan of RC jackets, so my opinion on them will be biased.

Have you taken a look at Flat head? They have a clean x zip too and he’s one of the OG brands. The FH fits similar to RC and they got nice Shinki horsehides. Priced higher like the RMC though.

@Canuck Panda btw you mentioned that you missed the Ponyboy restock. When was that? Worse case, I'll wait for their next restock, if it's not too far away.

What size / color are you searching for? I’ve got most RC dealers saved in my bookmark. Haha.
The orders From spring should get delivered by early winter. And usually they take orders in oct/nov for next summer delivery. There will be stock jackets too, if I find one I’ll send you the link.

 

[livioli]

Ponyboy has the

typical RC )( look. its also the most livable jacket compared to your other choices. Most RC and FW jackets has the full flannel lining even in the sleeves, but the pony boy is just rayon lined so easy on and off. I’m a big fan of RC jackets, so my opinion on them will be biased.

Have you taken a look at Flat head? They have a clean x zip too and he’s one of the OG brands. The FH fits similar to RC and they got nice Shinki horsehides. Priced higher like the RMC though.



What size / color are you searching for? I’ve got most RC dealers saved in my bookmark. Haha.
The orders From spring should get delivered by early winter. And usually they take orders in oct/nov for next summer delivery. There will be stock jackets too, if I find one I’ll send you the link.

Thanks a lot! I'm probably either a size 38 or 40 with the Ponyboy. So they should start taking orders in 1-2 months right? If I visit one of their dealers in Tokyo, what are the chances of me trying one on? Because I don't know if they look good on me. Also, they're not made-to-measure right?

P.S. Could you explain what linings are, please? Don't really know the difference between the two. I know that the stitching can be done in cotton, polyester, or a blend. Are they related?

 

[TartuWolf]

You are very lucky if you're in London, so many possibilities. Look into Field Leathers - doesn't get much better than that. The main catch is the lead time.

 

[Jasonissm]

Thanks a lot! I'm probably either a size 38 or 40 with the Ponyboy. So they should start taking orders in 1-2 months right? If I visit one of their dealers in Tokyo, what are the chances of me trying one on? Because I don't know if they look good on me. Also, they're not made-to-measure right?

P.S. Could you explain what linings are, please? Don't really know the difference between the two. I know that the stitching can be done in cotton, polyester, or a blend. Are they related?

Easiest one to get to within Tokyo is General Garden Americaya in Ueno, that being said, they carry limited stock, they may still have their store's custom model the "Highwayman" if you go soon, they recently restocked in both brown and black, but brown usually goes very quickly. The store that generally carries the most stock is in Greater Tokyo area but not the main center. If you go to Osaka, McFly is also worth a visit, they had a few leftover Freewheelers jackets from past seasons and they also have a bunch of Rainbow Country

 

[livioli]

You are very lucky if you're in London, so many possibilities. Look into Field Leathers - doesn't get much better than that. The main catch is the lead time.

Very true. Forgot about them.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Thanks a lot! I'm probably either a size 38 or 40 with the Ponyboy. So they should start taking orders in 1-2 months right? If I visit one of their dealers in Tokyo, what are the chances of me trying one on? Because I don't know if they look good on me. Also, they're not made-to-measure right?

P.S. Could you explain what linings are, please? Don't really know the difference between the two. I know that the stitching can be done in cotton, polyester, or a blend. Are they related?

There is a size 40 in black at Fresno, last year pricing, 200k yen, this year increased 10%, more for size 42 and 44. The RC fit will cover the whole belt but not actually long in numbers.

Rainbow Country(レインボーカントリー) 40's Horsehide Sports Jacket "PONY BOY(ポーニーボーイ)" BLACK| Fresno(フレズノ)公式通販サイト

シングルライダースとダブルライダースの黎明期のデザイン！オールド感抜群のスタイル！！Rainbow Country(レインボーカントリー) 40's Horsehide Sports Jacket "PONY BOY(ポニーボーイ)"

fresno.shop-pro.jp

What Jasonissm said, Ueno Americaya has all the brands, from Aero, to Vanson/Schott, to RC/FW...etc. There are multiple stores there too. Barnstormer is also big store. Once you try the different jacket on in store you will know what size to get. There really isn't the need to go custom. You will see. Physical try on is the best fit method. Each brand fits differently and have their own unique fitting. Only in person you know for sure.

Try on as many jackets from as many different brands (in store) before you buy. If you're a one jacket guy I would highly recommend this route. It's ok not the buy a jacket this year and just keep trying them on in store until you find your right one. There is nothing to lose.

RC and FW jackets often have flannel material lining in the sleeves instead of the nylon/rayon.
Flannel on the left, Rayon on the right (Ponyboy)

It's a personal choice. Some likes them, some hates them. You'd have to experience both to see for yourself.

RC and FW might have stockist in Europe a train ride away from you. Msg him to find out.

 

[tuanhng614]

Any update on your search for THE ONE jacket? Curious to where your research taken you?

 

[livioli]

Any update on your search for THE ONE jacket? Curious to where your research taken you?

Hi, I have settled on the RC Ponyboy. I also just returned from my Japan trip, truly an amazing country! They have one eye in the past and another in the future.

I pre-ordered the Ponyboy in 38 a few months ago but wasn't sure of the size so I went to the Barnstormer store in Japan last week (took me four hours to reach there cause got lost haha) to try on a few jackets of similar fits, and settled on size 40 instead.

They told me that the jacket should arrive next month. I'm concerned with the sleeve length so fingers crossed. I will post pictures when it arrives.

P.S. To paraphrase what the people at Barnstormer told me: RC is a factory that makes jackets for many other brands, including Freewheelers. For their in-house jackets, they get the first pick of what Shinki leather they use. This is not to say that they use bad leather for other brands' jackets.

This is what made me pull the trigger:

- unique design, yet timeless. Can mix and match with the rest of my wardrobe.
- top-tier construction quality (same as Freewheelers)
- top-tier leather
- reasonable price (compared to Freewheelers)
- Fit: only risk, since I couldn't try them on (no store in all of Japan has either size 38 or 40 in stock)

 

[livioli]

Ponyboy has the

typical RC )( look. its also the most livable jacket compared to your other choices. Most RC and FW jackets has the full flannel lining even in the sleeves, but the pony boy is just rayon lined so easy on and off. I’m a big fan of RC jackets, so my opinion on them will be biased.

Have you taken a look at Flat head? They have a clean x zip too and he’s one of the OG brands. The FH fits similar to RC and they got nice Shinki horsehides. Priced higher like the RMC though.



What size / color are you searching for? I’ve got most RC dealers saved in my bookmark. Haha.
The orders From spring should get delivered by early winter. And usually they take orders in oct/nov for next summer delivery. There will be stock jackets too, if I find one I’ll send you the link.

Visited the Flat Head a few weeks ago in Japan. It is, without doubt, the most beautiful Shinki leather I have ever seen. The staff member (forgot his name), was incredibly enthusiastic and spoke proudly about his 12-year-old FH single rider (size 38), he then showed me his 2-year-old FH single rider (size 40), and then his size 36 single rider. I asked why he decided to wear all 3 sizes, and he replied "Because I'm a legend!" lol.

I'll see if I can find a few pictures but the tea-core on the 12-year-old singer rider was stunning. Compared to brands like RC and FW, the Shinki seems to be softer for some reason. He told me that they use the "original" Shinki recipe, unlike other brands.

Apparently, they were also the first brand to start making "tea-core" jackets so to speak.

I'll see if I can find a few photos.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Visited the Flat Head a few weeks ago in Japan. It is, without doubt, the most beautiful Shinki leather I have ever seen. The staff member (forgot his name), was incredibly enthusiastic and spoke proudly about his 12-year-old FH single rider (size 38), he then showed me his 2-year-old FH single rider (size 40), and then his size 36 single rider. I asked why he decided to wear all 3 sizes, and he replied "Because I'm a legend!" lol.

I'll see if I can find a few pictures but the tea-core on the 12-year-old singer rider was stunning. Compared to brands like RC and FW, the Shinki seems to be softer for some reason. He told me that they use the "original" Shinki recipe, unlike other brands.

Apparently, they were also the first brand to start making "tea-core" jackets so to speak.

I'll see if I can find a few photos.

haha, was it this guy? because he is kind of a legend or pioneer:

Congrats on the Ponyboy. One of the best. I'm looking for another non black one in a bigger size myself. haha.

 

[livioli]

This guy:

Nice! Let's see who has a better fit when mine arrives! The ageing will be amazing! I plan on wearing my at least 4-5 times a week.

 

[Canuck Panda]

This guy:

View attachment 579525


Nice! Let's see who has a better fit when mine arrives! The ageing will be amazing! I plan on wearing my at least 4-5 times a week.

I have jacket in two sizes, not three like this guy. I need to get a third size to get into that legendary club. haha.

Next RC delivery is coming up, they can have small delays like a month or so. Spring seems like a busy time for deliveries for all the pre-orders. Can't wait to see your jacket. Ponyboy is really nice.