Recommended blogs & resources to learn about leather jackets

[livioli]

Hello everyone,

I'm new to this forum and the world of leather jackets. Could you guys kindly recommend a few good resources to learn about them? How leather jackets are made, the various types of finishes etc. Help is much appreciated.

I'm trying to purchase "one" lifetime jacket so need to be able to judge the quality of a jacket myself (as to not fall into hype) and have a good idea of the various options. So when I buy the jacket, I should have absolutely zero doubt that it's the best jacket for me.

P.S I'm flying to Japan in December so I have three months ...

Many thanks,
Livio

 

[AeroFan_07]

Livio - I would say you're already in a great place here. Just research and read a lot around this forum.
Now to this point:

I'm trying to purchase "one" lifetime jacket so need to be able to judge the quality of a jacket myself (as to not fall into hype) and have a good idea of the various options. So when I buy the jacket, I should have absolutely zero doubt that it's the best jacket for me.

I feel you are putting too much pressure on yourself, and having some unrealistic expectations. Most of us on here have realized it's not about the one "grail" jacket. Rather, the search, the journey, the experience shared along the way, is far more valuable then that "one perfect jacket." A few have done it & left. That isn't why I am on here. Plus, tastes and preferences do indeed change over time.

I can't tell you how many jacket's I've owned, bought & sold, and some have stuck around longer than others. Sure, it a little expensive, but it's far cheaper and less maintenance intensive than collecting cars, motorcycles or tractors, so it is a fair compromise in my book.

 

[navetsea]

you need to look around in youtube or forum about the type of jacket you want to live with, also need to keep your weight in check and have a clear idea of your personal style, nobody can suggest that to you other than your own choice.

but if one jacket is your goal then that jacket must be versatile, it must fit into several season and weather, can be dressed up and down, can stand daily wear. so with those in mind avoid something with knit, avoid suede, avoid any warm lining, avoid something that is too flashy or too boring.

if i would live with one jacket, then I would get a buttoned cross/ slanted front in olive, sage, or grey with pocket welt or chin strap (or other small accent) in natural hide that will get darker with age. it would be very unlikely from ready to wear jacket, it must be something a little more personal and unique to me.

 

[livioli]

Thanks!

I'll most likely go for a cross-zip; although there are many different types. I have already read several blogs, videos, interviews, and TFL but none of them are comprehensive enough and are generally filled with sparse information about specific things. I was hoping there would be a book of sorts ...

Brands I'm considering are:

• Fine Creeks Leon Custom 1.3 or 1.5mm
  • love the design and the look of the leather
  • Not sure how I feel about the super-fast tea-core. It's meant to last for decades, so shouldn't the fading go at a similar pace? A fully brown look would be a little weird imo.
  • I probably prefer the slower-fading tea-core recipe of bigger brands like FW and RC.
• Rainbow Country "Ponyboy" Sports Jacket (out of stock everywhere)
• Double Helix Works 'Deviant'
  • https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/double-helix-deviant-jacket.106886/
• Tenjin Works Sports Jacket
  • https://tenjinworks.com/collections...s/sports-jacket-jw03-1?variant=41659876442319
• Freewheelers (La Brea and Centinela)
• "MOTOR NEW VINTAGE" ITALIAN HORSE FRONT DOUBLE SPORTS JACKET

you need to look around in youtube or forum about the type of jacket you want to live with, also need to keep your weight in check and have a clear idea of your personal style, nobody can suggest that to you other than your own choice.

but if one jacket is your goal then that jacket must be versatile, it must fit into several season and weather, can be dressed up and down, can stand daily wear. so with those in mind avoid something with knit, avoid suede, avoid any warm lining, avoid something that is too flashy or too boring.

if i would live with one jacket, then I would get a buttoned cross/ slanted front in olive, sage, or grey with pocket welt or chin strap (or other small accent) in natural hide that will get darker with age. it would be very unlikely from ready to wear jacket, it must be something a little more personal and unique to me.

 

[livioli]

Livio - I would say you're already in a great place here. Just research and read a lot around this forum.
Now to this point:

I'm trying to purchase "one" lifetime jacket so need to be able to judge the quality of a jacket myself (as to not fall into hype) and have a good idea of the various options. So when I buy the jacket, I should have absolutely zero doubt that it's the best jacket for me.

I feel you are putting too much pressure on yourself, and having some unrealistic expectations. Most of us on here have realized it's not about the one "grail" jacket. Rather, the search, the journey, the experience shared along the way, is far more valuable then that "one perfect jacket." A few have done it & left. That isn't why I am on here. Plus, tastes and preferences do indeed change over time.

I can't tell you how many jacket's I've owned, bought & sold, and some have stuck around longer than others. Sure, it a little expensive, but it's far cheaper and less maintenance intensive than collecting cars, motorcycles or tractors, so it is a fair compromise in my book.

Solid advice. It most definitely is unrealistic but I'm hoping that by setting a 'stretch' goal, I'll get a good jacket even if it's not great, much like how aiming for good can get me bad. I'll probably get more jackets but for now I need a jacket that will last me decades.

TFL is great but the information is too sparse and it's more discussions filled with nuggets of insights rather than guides. I need something more comprehensive. I don't even know how to check whether the leather is good quality, or what kind of finish it uses etc.

 

[cbez]

what you like now will not be exactly what you like in 10 or 20 years even if your body is the same.

you have picked some well-regarded brands so you can't really go wrong dipping your feet in.

I recommend trying used, great discounts available for barely touched jackets and easier to recoup if you have fit issues or your taste changes down the road. it is better to 'learn' on used jackets than to make a 2k+ mistake

 

[handymike]

Honestly, I think you are rushing it. There is no good blog or youtube (unless you watch @tmitchell59). They all are selling or hawking something.
Read the depth of valuable info here!
Trust me, we’ve been in your shoes!

 

[MrProper]

I'm trying to purchase "one" lifetime jacket

Hahaha. Wrong place here for the "one" leather jacket.

Sorry, but I'm afraid something like this only exists out of necessity, for lack of other options. When it comes to "lifetime" durability, any halfway decent leather jacket will probably make it.

Brands I'm considering are:

You want to learn about leather jackets, but you're already fixated on brands? Seems like a contradiction to me.
For the "one" I would rather look for Schott, Vanson, Lewisleathers, Aero. Especially if it should be an xzip.

 

[livioli]

what you like now will not be exactly what you like in 10 or 20 years even if your body is the same.

you have picked some well-regarded brands so you can't really go wrong dipping your feet in.

I recommend trying used, great discounts available for barely touched jackets and easier to recoup if you have fit issues or your taste changes down the road. it is better to 'learn' on used jackets than to make a 2k+ mistake

I have considered that. But I don't really like to wear vintage clothes, especially if they're used. I prefer to break in my own clothes rather than buy worn-in ones.

 

[livioli]

Hahaha. Wrong place here for the "one" leather jacket.

Sorry, but I'm afraid something like this only exists out of necessity, for lack of other options. When it comes to "lifetime" durability, any halfway decent leather jacket will probably make it.


You want to learn about leather jackets, but you're already fixated on brands? Seems like a contradiction to me.
For the "one" I would rather look for Schott, Vanson, Lewisleathers, Aero. Especially if it should be an xzip.

Maybe it is the wrong place. But is it really that hard to believe that I want a jacket that i can cherish for life? I know that leather jackets are already durable by nature, but I also care about the design etc.

I wouldn't say I'm fixated on brands. I just happen to have researched more into those brands since I'm flying to Japan in a few months so have the option to try them on. This is by no means a final list. If anything, I'm adding more brands every day. Thanks for the recommendations.

 

[Jasonissm]

I think you may be fixating too much on the leather, materials, finish, etc. too much. What you need to learn first and foremost is what fit you desire, what works for your body, comfort, etc. That is what makes a leather jacket look good.

I've tried many high-end Japanese brands while I was there, still, nothing even came close to the comfort and fit of my Vanson Model E honestly. Although, I do plan to get a Japanese leather jacket, there are a few that I believe are worth the hype, but I definitely think you should expand your range and don't get a Japanese leather jacket just because it's Japanese.

Also depending on your size, you might not have much luck finding stuff in stock, especially high demand ones like Freewheelers (they have stopped producing for now, so new is very scarce.

 

[handymike]

@Marc mndt went to Japan and came back with a Schott… worth visiting their shop too.

 

[MrProper]

But is it really that hard to believe that I want one jacket that I can cherish for life?

No, not at all. I can absolutely understand this wish. I just think it's relatively unrealistic if you spend any time in this forum.
Apart from that, finding the "right" jacket is an ongoing process. There may be exceptions, but often the desire for more leather jackets starts with getting the first "right" leather jacket.
In that respect, I would avoid this forum if you really want to end up with one jacket. LOL

 

[livioli]

@Marc mndt went to Japan and came back with a Schott… worth visiting their shop too.

There is a Schott and Lewis leather in London too. Are the Japanese ones different or better? I kind of subconsciously outed Schott because I didn't want something too classic/standard, but more something between unique and timeless.

 

[handymike]

I believe his was a Japanese model- it looks fantastic.

 

[livioli]

Thanks for the tip haha. I was kind of drawn in by the passion that you guys radiated when talking about jackets ... It's almost like a subculture of sorts.

I'll probably just buy a few books on leather jacket history to learn more. I tend to be obsessive with these sorts of things. I spent 20 hours in one store before buying my first pair of selvage denim to give an idea haha.

No, not at all. I can absolutely understand this wish. I just think it's relatively unrealistic if you spend any time in this forum.
Apart from that, finding the "right" jacket is an ongoing process. There may be exceptions, but often the desire for more leather jackets starts with getting the first "right" leather jacket.
In that respect, I would avoid this forum if you really want to end up with one jacket. LOL

 

[Marc mndt]

@Marc mndt went to Japan and came back with a Schott… worth visiting their shop too

Most of the Japanese makers / brands do not produce full size ranges. Instead the jackets are made to order (standard sizes only). You can put in an order via one of their stockist. There's usually a limited period when jackets can be ordered. If the order book has already closed, too bad. For example, order before 31st of May and the jacket will be delivered first week of October.

Other makers like tenjin works are also MTO but they do offer custom body and sleeve lengths plus you can choose the leather you like. Lead time 6 months

You can also go full custom with makers like Peter's Tailor made. Lead time three months.

There are exceptions like the real mccoys, you can walk into any of their brandstores and find full size ranges of each and every style, ready to buy off the rack. Same holds for Schott.

Long story short, don't expect to walk into a store to find a Freewheelers or Rainbow Country in your size that's available for sale. It's certainly possible but chances are slim.

Are the Japanese ones different or better? I kind of subconsciously outed Schott because I didn't want something too classic/standard, but more something between unique and timeless.

They offer styles / colors / leathers that are exclusively made for the Japanese market, like this 613SJH.

Personally I don't think Fine Creek jackets are all that timeless since a lot of their patterns are designed to accommodate the contemporary fashion trend of wearing low rise jeans.

 

[Jasonissm]

I can also recommend @dudewuttheheck 's blog, when I first started getting into leather jackets it was a great resource to learn and he covered mostly Japanese jackets as well

Almost Vintage Style

raw denim, boots, and heritage menswear

almostvintagestyle.com

 

[livioli]

Most of the Japanese makers / brands do not produce full size ranges. Instead the jackets are made to order (standard sizes only). You can put in an order via one of their stockist. There's usually a limited period when jackets can be ordered. If the order book has already closed, too bad. For example, order before 31st of May and the jacket will be delivered first week of October.

Other makers like tenjin works are also MTO but they do offer custom body and sleeve lengths plus you can choose the leather you like. Lead time 6 months

You can also go full custom with makers like Peter's Tailor made. Lead time three months.

There are exceptions like the real mccoys, you can walk into any of their brandstores and find full size ranges of each and every style, ready to buy off the rack. Same holds for Schott.

Long story short, don't expect to walk into a store to find a Freewheelers or Rainbow Country in your size that's available for sale. It's certainly possible but chances are slim.



They offer styles / colors / leathers that are exclusively made for the Japanese market, like this 613SJH.

Personally I don't think Fine Creek jackets are all that timeless since a lot of their patterns are designed to accommodate the contemporary fashion trend of wearing low rise jeans.

View attachment 544741

I see. That's such a shame. It means that I can't try them on before making a custom order online. That's the most important thing for me. Never heard of Peter's Tailor though, will check them out tnks.

 

[Marc mndt]

It means that I can't try them on before making a custom order online.

Some brands/makers like Y2, Attractions or Tenjin have experience stores or pop-up stores where you can try on their jackets.

Make sure the plan an appointment ahead if you want to pay Y'2 a visit.