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Recommendations for men's dress shoes?

Lorinz

Familiar Face
Messages
85
I was thinking about getting a nice pair of dress shoes, and wanted some suggestions on what shoes to get that fit my criteria. Namely really good quality leather with a really sharp toe; but at prices that are more reasonable and not designer prices. Does anyone have any recommendations for shoes that would fit what I am looking for? Also I'd greatly prefer a U.S. company, as I really don't like having to deal with international shipping with clothing items like this. I appreciate any suggestions given.
 
Messages
17,490
Location
Chicago
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Dress shoes! Even the name sucks ass. :p
I refuse to own a pair. Made it 50 years that way.
 

Tomalf

New in Town
Messages
15
Imo the best value (and one of the best makers in the world in general) is Winson.
It's an Indonesian company but the prices start around 400$ and the quality is comparable to 2000$+ bespoke shoes.
If you want something rtw enzo bonafe has some really good value handwelted dress shoes.
(I know none of the companies I mentioned is US based but I don't think there is a us based company that can even approach the quality to price ratio or those companies)
 

Tomalf

New in Town
Messages
15
Imo the best value (and one of the best makers in the world in general) is Winson.
It's an Indonesian company but the prices start around 400$ and the quality is comparable to 2000$+ bespoke shoes.
If you want something rtw enzo bonafe has some really good value handwelted dress shoes.
(I know none of the companies I mentioned is US based but I don't think there is a us based company that can even approach the quality to price ratio or those companies)
Carmina also offers some nice pairs and they have stores in the US but their shoes are machine lasted and Goodyear welted in comparison to hand lasting and handwelting
 

Lorinz

Familiar Face
Messages
85
Can you give a specific price point target?

I'd say from a few hundred dollars to around $500 or $600. For these kind of shoes I don't really know what the price points are for them to be worth it. I do know that I want to avoid going into the really high prices designer items get into, where you're getting into almost $1,000 and such.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,943
I'd say from a few hundred dollars to around $500 or $600. For these kind of shoes I don't really know what the price points are for them to be worth it. I do know that I want to avoid going into the really high prices designer items get into, where you're getting into almost $1,000 and such.

I don't know how many people here would be advising you to pick up designer stuff anyway, with some exceptions maybe like RRL/RLPL on sale.

Do you prefer shoes or boots? Slip on or lace?

You've left the specifics pretty vague so far but your price point will cover a lot of good stuff.
 

Lorinz

Familiar Face
Messages
85
I don't know how many people here would be advising you to pick up designer stuff anyway, with some exceptions maybe like RRL/RLPL on sale.

Do you prefer shoes or boots? Slip on or lace?

You've left the specifics pretty vague so far but your price point will cover a lot of good stuff.

I was looking for a men's dress shoe, admittedly I'm not very knowledgeable about that kind of shoe. I already have boots, its shoes I'm looking for. As for lace or slip on, I wasn't sure, I'd assume lace. I'm generally thinking of "gentleman" style shoes, if that makes sense, but with a sharper toe as opposed to a round or blunt shaped one. Hopefully that helps.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,943
I was looking for a men's dress shoe, admittedly I'm not very knowledgeable about that kind of shoe. I already have boots, its shoes I'm looking for. As for lace or slip on, I wasn't sure, I'd assume lace. I'm generally thinking of "gentleman" style shoes, if that makes sense, but with a sharper toe as opposed to a round or blunt shaped one. Hopefully that helps.

“Gentleman style”? I don’t know what this means. Do you mean shoes to be worn with a suit?
 

Olumin

Familiar Face
Messages
96
Location
EU
US makers are not known for sleek lasts or pointy toes. For that you’ll likely have to look else where, like Italy and Spain. Unless you’re looking for cowboy boots.

All GYW RTW & MTM shoes are basically made the same using the same materials, regardless of whether you pay 200 or 2000. Hand lasting does not produce better quality or longevity, hand welting will not last appreciably longer then GYW while being far more expensive to resole (as it needs to be done by hand). It’s really all mostly marketing and some elitism. Truly bespoke shoes are a completely different ballgame, but even here mostly because of fit & customisation, not so much durability.

You are really looking at pretty minor details like stich density, consistency in selecting good quality pieces of hide with few undesirable marks or scratches, sole & heel finishing, leather board vs celastic toe stiffness etc.
None of this is all that important & much of it is purely personal preference and aesthetics.

I’d say don’t use any sleep over it. I’d say the last is the most important thing. Make sure they use an actual veg tan insole and a natural filler like cork or leather. Once you get to that level they’re basically all the same.

I find Carmina uses very sleek and elegant lasts that fit what you are looking for. Plus they offer a broad selection of models and lasts.
 
Messages
17,490
Location
Chicago
This is the way
Fuggn’ A right. If I have to cram my foot into some god awful shit sack shoe I won’t wear even once a year, merely for of my attendance, I’m not going! Chances are I’ll get too drunk and ruin it anyway. Saves both parties embarrassment.
 

jchance

A-List Customer
Messages
314
Location
Los Angeles
I'd say from a few hundred dollars to around $500 or $600. For these kind of shoes I don't really know what the price points are for them to be worth it. I do know that I want to avoid going into the really high prices designer items get into, where you're getting into almost $1,000 and such.

Allen Edmonds, Alden (shoemaker for Brooks Brothers), Crockett Jones (shoemaker for Ralph Lauren), Edward Green, John Lobb. The first two are American makers.

Best money can buy is John Lobb bespoke. It’s like walking on cloud even though it’s leather, very very comfortable. About $7,000 new but you can get them used for less than $800.

If I were you, I’d try on Allen Edmonds at Nordstrom and look for them on eBay.
 
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Modified_last_call

One of the Regulars
Messages
113
Location
Bucks County, PA
Grant Stone.

Best value in a quality shoe.
US company, shoes made in China in a quality factory.
I have six pair

If you care for a more refined European look, check out Cobbler Union. They are made in Spain
 
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Tomalf

New in Town
Messages
15
US makers are not known for sleek lasts or pointy toes. For that you’ll likely have to look else where, like Italy and Spain. Unless you’re looking for cowboy boots.

All GYW RTW & MTM shoes are basically made the same using the same materials, regardless of whether you pay 200 or 2000. Hand lasting does not produce better quality or longevity, hand welting will not last appreciably longer then GYW while being far more expensive to resole (as it needs to be done by hand). It’s really all mostly marketing and some elitism. Truly bespoke shoes are a completely different ballgame, but even here mostly because of fit & customisation, not so much durability.

You are really looking at pretty minor details like stich density, consistency in selecting good quality pieces of hide with few undesirable marks or scratches, sole & heel finishing, leather board vs celastic toe stiffness etc.
None of this is all that important & much of it is purely personal preference and aesthetics.

I’d say don’t use any sleep over it. I’d say the last is the most important thing. Make sure they use an actual veg tan insole and a natural filler like cork or leather. Once you get to that level they’re basically all the same.

I find Carmina uses very sleek and elegant lasts that fit what you are looking for. Plus they offer a broad selection of models and lasts.
I'll concede that hand lasting doesn't effect the quality but it does effect the shapes you can use for the last, so if you want a more exaggerated shape to the shoe hand lasting is the way to go.
I think handwelting is really underappreciated, the chances that a handwelt will fail is almost zero in comparison to Goodyear welt with gemming that has a surprisingly high failure rate(according to a few cobblers I know) + handwelt doesn't produce the huge cavity that the gemming creates in Goodyear welt, which effect the long term comfort of the shoe (the loose cork used in Goodyear welted shoes almost always scatter in parts of the shoe)

(You can get these qualities from Italian/Indonesian/Chinese makers for carmina/alden pricing so I don't see a reason to not go for them unless you really really like a specific last/pattern from a Goodyear maker)
 
Messages
16,803
I hate that term, "dress shoes". It implies exactly what Ton mentioned, some kind of footwear that you wear only at a certain occasions. It is a maliciously misleading term that doesn't describe anything in particular & implies that looking like a slob is normal and acceptable.

I mean, George Costanza turned his Timberland boots into perfectly passable "dress shoes" by spray-paining them black.

Good lace-up shoe is a basic foundation of ones style and general self respect. It shows you care for yourself and what represents you enough to not wrap your feet in 18 layers of plastic polymer, rubber and PVC gunk.
 
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