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Rate My Look

Mike K.

One Too Many
Messages
1,479
Location
Southwest Florida
Where's the pocket square?!

No suit is complete without the pocket square.

As for the shirt/tie combination, I agree with those who say the shirt pattern is distracting. It may only be because of the colors/textures that it's paired with. What lies within that narrow space between the suit's lapels should lead the eye toward the wearer's face, not away from it toward the clothing. Can't say much about the tie knot or spread collar without some reference to the head. According to "Dressing the Man" these items should also compliment the wearer's physical attributes.

I often try to find something in the tie (sometimes the shirt) that, not only coordinates stylishly with my suit, but also has a bit of color matching my eyes or hair.
 

Slicksuit

One of the Regulars
Messages
239
Location
Suburban Detroit, Michigan
Like the shirt and tie!

I agree with the previous posts that perhaps the shirt is a little distracting from the suit, but I do like the shirt and tie. Maybe a grey or navy suit would be optimal. Despite black not being the best combination with the shirt, the details coexist with it well. The suit has a Saville Row flavour.

Your choice of a large knot and spread collar really resonate with me, as I like British details like that as well. I wish to incorporate more check-print shirts into my wardrobe myself.

I also agree with the previous posters: let's see your whole pose, shoes included. How you exude yourself while wearing the ensemble is equally important as the choices themselves. A relaxed and confident persona can make up for some small shortcomings (and I mean small, with this ensemble, you're better dressed than 95% of most men).
 

Lionheart

One of the Regulars
Messages
101
Location
Metro-Boston
That said, I'm looking for opinions on how I'm doing.

I think the look is great, but I would try it with a blue suit instead of black, and something that isn't as "fitted" - something a little baggier around the hip and pelvis.
 

StanleyVanBuren

Registered User
Messages
409
Location
Pacific Palisades, CA
Wow! I'm blown away by how much input there has been on this one outfit. Thanks for all the comments and criticism. I'll try to address each point:

1. The Shirt.
I'm glad so many of you like it; it is one of my favorites as well. I love the pattern, and I love the high collar stance (as was pointed out) because I have a long neck. However, I have always struggled to find the right tie that would compliment it. I think Hemingway Jones hit the nail on the head with suggesting just matching one of the blues in a solid color. I have a navy tie I've tried with this shirt before, but it was a striped tie and then there really was TOO much going on. Solid navy, I think, is what I need to get to go with this shirt. And I agree that it would probably do better with a blue suit, or just casually with a blazer & jeans. It's one of those types with the two small buttons at the collar, which is a cool detail that I find makes it wearable sans tie.

2. The Tie
I was glad and somewhat surprised to hear so many of you liked it. I picked it up on my last trip to London and it is one of my favorites. You may be surprised and/or disappointed to hear it is 100% polyester. I almost thought about not getting it for that reason, but I liked the look of it and that was enough for me. One thing to note is that this tie holds its shape better than most of my other ties, which makes me like it even more. It may be because it's British-built that it forms (and holds) the kind of Windsor knot that I prefer so well. More on that later.
Here's a close-up:
4_6_07__3.jpg


3. The suit. Rover picked up on all the details; pick stitching, hacking pockets, peak lapels. I mostly bought this because it was peak lapel & I really like that look. One thing I should address is that this suit -has- been tailored properly, and the sleeves are where they should be. The fact that the shirt sticks out more on one side than the other in the picture is a result of me standing awkwardly, and my watch on the other arm preventing the shirt cuff from extending the full length down. The only issue I currently have with this suit is that the way its put together, the bottom button is still slightly above waist level and there is something a bit funny about how the waist is cut. Thus, when unbuttoned, sometimes the tie will peek out in an odd manner. Those of you with the first issue of Classic Style will notice on page 62, the man on the far left has his bottom button buttoned. This is because his suit is also from BR and has the same problem (whereas the gent on the right in Armani can leave his bottom button undone). I managed to snap my photo without the tie peeking out as it sometimes does.

4. British-style spread collar and windsor knot.
Slicksuit picked up on this. Ever since I first lived in London in 2004, I was impressed each day as I rode on the tube in the morning how all the Brits had these great looking collars and big wide knots to their ties. I preferred the look to mine, and was disappointed upon return to the states that this look was widely unavailable here. So, the next time I went to London, I stocked up. As far as the look fitting my face, I've been told that collar and knot size should contrast your face type, and I've heard the other way round as well... so, I usually just stick with what I prefer aesthetically, which is the British-style spread collar and windsor knot. I just think it has a more refined, formal look to it.

Plus, everyone and their mom can tie a four-in-hand knot. It takes a bit more skill to get the windsor knot right. I've had plenty of gents approach me, compliment my knot, and complain that they wish they could do one like that. This is not to say I don't mix it up a bit. Paisley suggested a green shirt to go with my lavender tie. I do have a white/green stripe RL shirt that I may try it with. That shirt has a button-down collar, so the windsor knot will be out of the question there.

5. No pocket square.
A deliberate choice, I'm afraid. Thing is, as much as I/we don't like it, the current state of affairs is that guys in their 20s do not wear pocket squares. It's much more acceptable if you're over 50 for some reason. Anyway, as one of the few guys in my office that consistently wears suits, I'm already pushing it a little, and the pocket square would simply be too much, in my opinion. I'm not saying I'm happy about it, but I can only do so much.

Overall, the suggestion I'll be taking the most is against doing too much in one outfit. As many pointed out, each of these articles call attention to themselves, and I probably had too much going on by combining all three at the same time.

Again, thanks for all the input! More to come this coming week.
 

Marty M.

Vendor
Messages
1,195
Location
Minneapolis
A yes and a no.

I agree 100% with what Chris Bell said. Your choice for your shirt and tie combo isn't what I would have put together, but you put a lot of thought into it. And that my friend is what matters. Bravo to you sir.
I must disagree with the idea that Black is only for funerals. With the correct black fabric and shirt tie combo, I think that black can be worn during the day.
Marty
 

Cacklewack

One of the Regulars
Messages
270
Location
Portland, OR
StanleyVanBuren said:
5. No pocket square.
A deliberate choice, I'm afraid. Thing is, as much as I/we don't like it, the current state of affairs is that guys in their 20s do not wear pocket squares. It's much more acceptable if you're over 50 for some reason. Anyway, as one of the few guys in my office that consistently wears suits, I'm already pushing it a little, and the pocket square would simply be too much, in my opinion. I'm not saying I'm happy about it, but I can only do so much.

I'm in my 20s and I wear the square! Do it for your country, sir! :)

Matt
 

Martinis at 8

Practically Family
Messages
710
Location
Houston
I like this ensemble much better than the last one. Looking dapper!

We need to see some cuff from your shirt, 1/4-1/2 inch (unless you went with short sleeves).

I use a "West Point" break on my trousers, which means when I walk no socks are revealed.

M8
 

Zemke Fan

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,690
Location
On Hiatus. Really. Or Not.
Lookin' good today!

Much better outfit. The sleeve comment by Martinis was what struck me first. I think a brightly colored tie (rather than black) would really stand out. Finally, either black or chestnut (an Allen Edmonds color) colored shoes might look better. But, again, lookin' good!
 

DanielJones

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,042
Location
On the move again...
The first Images: Very Prince Charles with the spread colar and choice of colors.

The second Images: Well, the first thing that came to mind was a 1980's stock broker intern.

But that is just my opinion, for what it's worth. Other than that I think you pull off either look, just work on the hair a bit and you will be very polished.

Cheers!

Dan
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
DanielJones said:
The first Images: Very Prince Charles with the spread colar and choice of colors.
The PoW ties a rather diminutive FIH.

Prince-Charles-the-RED-701649.jpg



You must be thinking of Prince Michael of Kent.

262px-Prince_Michael_of_Kent.jpg
 

StanleyVanBuren

Registered User
Messages
409
Location
Pacific Palisades, CA
WOW!! Now that guy looks cool! Sure, everything is just a little bit wrong; collar stance a touch too high, knot slightly too big, knot slightly loose... but that's what makes it all so brilliant when put together. Good looking jacket, too.

I can only hope to ever look that cool.
 

Orgetorix

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,241
Location
Louisville, KY...and I'm a 42R, 7 1/2
Ok, I'll bite:

The shoes are too casual for the suit's formality, and brown shoes with a black suit is a no-no. Look for some black cap-toe or punch cap oxfords.

If you're going to wear stripes, with your build they should be faint and spaced as widely as possible. Bold stripes accentuate your tall, thin build.

You could do with a higher shirt collar, because of your long neck. See photo of Prince Michael above for reference.

I don't know if it's the way your naturally hold your arms or just your photo-taking stance, but in these pictures and the ones you posted before, the back of the sleeve is doing something weird. My inexpert guess is that your arms hang too far back for the way the sleeves are set. A good tailor might be able to take the sleeves off, rotate them a bit, and re-set them on the jacket body.

The trousers look a bit messy. They could do with less break, though I'd wait 'til you get some proper shoes to correct that.

I'm not a fan of the giant Windsor knot look, but that's just my personal opinion. It looks like the size of the knot is overwhelming the rest of the outfit.

Props, though, on your mixing of patterns. The shirt's pattern is subtle enough not to make the whole ensemble look too busy. Good job! And I'm sure you look better than 98% of your peers.
 

StanleyVanBuren

Registered User
Messages
409
Location
Pacific Palisades, CA
Suit is dark navy blue, so I think the brown shoes are ok. Am I wrong?

And thanks, your other comments are all well taken. I hadn't noticed the arm thing before, but now I'm going to have to look into that.

You're absolutely right about the trousers. As it's still relatively new, I'm currently wearing this suit off-the-peg and it does pretty well for such, but I do need to take it to a tailor and have it adjusted a bit as soon as I have time.
 

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