Rainbow Country Single Rider

[Canuck Panda]

It is possible that they have discontinued the Grizzly

I hope not! They make one of the nicest one judging from the photo. Inch thick fur and that big shawl collar. The ones I see on the used market come with a different Rainbow Country label:

Instead of their current "Bear" California Mfg. label.

Used Rainbow Country jackets are so rare on Yahoo Auction / Mercari.

 

[Canuck Panda]

My second Rainbow Country. This one came with a full wool liner. A perfectly made wool jacket inside a leather jacket. Even the lining has its own top stitch (double stitched seams). And it's fitted to the outer shell like a glove. I've never seen anything like this, not from any of the more expensive jackets I have in other brands, except Freewheelers but they use moleskin flannel. This wool is also not scratchy. I think it's a cotton wool mix vs a melton nylon wool mix. I will look more into this.

The leather is also unlike every other leather I've seen. It has the CXL thickness, color depth, and shine, with Badalassi pliable temper. The grains are very natural and well matched.

@jszair As Blackadder has pointed out, it could be Shinki leather crust, finished by Miyoshi San in his TMY Sumida leather shop.

The Rainbow Country horsehide is thicker than every Shinki horsehide I have. And "better" in every single way from heft to temper to finishing to grain. I've bought Shinki leather direct from Shinki's agent Hashimoto, same supplier to all the western brands who uses Shinki I believe. And none are this robust, none has this finish. Maybe on a small section it will measure 3.5oz, but most veg tan Shinki are very consistently 3oz. The chrome tan Shinkis are thinner, about 2.5oz. Whatever is at the base of this RC horsehide, it is consistently 3.5oz, one up from the Shinki I have gotten. I also have no luck buying this leather from Hashimoto. On my next order I will ask for the Rainbow Country leather and see what they say.

On one of RC's retail partner Instagram post, this is the translation said about his leather (Tobacco A2):
"...I colored it in two processes, such as coloring the leather to be as close to the real thing, coloring it with a layer of yellow dye on the base and then spraying a tobacco brown dye on the top. The company's characteristics are apparent in the jacket such as the left-right symmetrical figure that ignored the large shoulders and the antexes. Wild horse leather really suits the A-2, with wild form. The leather used in this jacket has been soaked in concerns for months with a saliva extracted from the bark of the plant, and underwent a process of moisturizing more than usual by the hands of an artisan who knows the leather. Moisturized purple leather is flexible and easy to adapt to the body in a relatively quick stage, and it has a unique spice that removes unspeakable form!!"

It sounds a lot like CXL without the stiff wax. I assume wax is a water based one that gets cut into the oil moisturizing part. So it is not stiff at all, everything CXL, but not stiff, and more refined.

Now the bad news. Available sizing. This jacket is a 42. The biggest size available is a 44. So bigger guys 6'2" /200 plus pounds you are out of luck. If you wear modern US Extra Large and bigger, you will have to find out how to do customs with these guys. It can be done. They did it for Aquaman.

This particular racer jacket is a slim straight body torso, just one inch drop. But the action pleats give another two inches on each side so it can theoretically be a drop 6 V taper when needed. I have two of these same jacket now in different leather. Spot on precision in size. Laser sharp precision.

Some measurement pics and check out the leather and the craftsmanship! Rainbow Country is awesome. Their horsehide is like Niki Lauda and CXL is James Hunt.

The biggest kicker, this jacket cost no more than what an Aero jacket cost in Japan.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Ok this is starting to get confusing for me now. Just got my other package that was delayed. And Seal Brown Rainbow Country is Shinki. The Chocolate aninline one to be exact. Smelled the same as the one hide I got left, and same hide as the GW I picked up here in Classifieds. So there are at least two types of leather from RC? I swear the black one is just like CXL and not Shinki, and now the seal brown one is for sure Shinki. Ugh... Wish they had a full intro on all their hides. Rainbow country really make nice stuff, but I also don't know what to expect anymore. Blackadder please help! Do you have the same experience in the different leathers in your RC collection? How do I know which one is the more CXL one? The Shinki one came with moleskin lined sleeves like the Freewheelers and the CXL like one came with full wool if that makes sense?

 

[Blackadder]

Ok this is starting to get confusing for me now. Just got my other package that was delayed. And Seal Brown Rainbow Country is Shinki. The Chocolate aninline one to be exact. Smelled the same as the one hide I got left, and same hide as the GW I picked up here in Classifieds. So there are at least two types of leather from RC? I swear the black one is just like CXL and not Shinki, and now the seal brown one is for sure Shinki. Ugh... Wish they had a full intro on all their hides. Rainbow country really make nice stuff, but I also don't know what to expect anymore. Blackadder please help! Do you have the same experience in the different leathers in your RC collection? How do I know which one is the more CXL one? The Shinki one came with moleskin lined sleeves like the Freewheelers and the CXL like one came with full wool if that makes sense?

View attachment 457301

I think the "CXL" feel Shiniki is just a more waxy shiniki. My dark seal RC A-2 is more waxy while my single rider is drier.
This is my dark seal A-2
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/rainbow-country-a-2-dubow-27798.76020/

 

[jeo]

What is the drop or taper from chest to waist to hem? For example, if the chest is 22" then is it 21" at the waist and then 22" at the hem? Or is it 22" Chest drops to 20" at the waist and then flares out to 21" at the hem?

My single riders measures 19.5" pit to pit, 17.5" waist and 18.5" hem.

Are the measurements on the conservative side or maximum side? These are the measurements from the Mushman store:
34---身幅49.5cm/着丈60.5cm/肩幅43.0cm/袖丈59.5cm
36---身幅51.0cm/着丈62.0cm/肩幅44.5cm/袖丈60.5cm
38---身幅52.5cm/着丈63.0cm/肩幅46.0cm/袖丈62.0cm
40---身幅54.0cm/着丈64.0cm/肩幅47.5cm/袖丈63.5cm
42---身幅55.0cm/着丈65.0cm/肩幅49.0cm/袖丈65.0cm
44---身幅57.0cm/着丈65.0cm/肩幅50.0cm/袖丈65.0cm

So when it says 55cm, is it at least 55 cm and may be bigger or is 55cm like a median number and can swing either way up to a cm?

I bought mine from Mushmans and all the measurements were accurate except for the shoulder measurement which was around 0.75" or 2 cm larger than the actual measurement.

Looking at these measurements now, it seems like they fixed that. Mine is a size 34 and I bought it in 2019 and the shoulder measurement was 45 cm, now it's 43 cm.

Rainbow country horsehide - Is there a slight give or stretch? The full aniline Shinkis I've experienced has no stretch. But the pony Shinki has some give. How is the Rainbow country horsehide temper? The ones used for the single riders/Hercules cossacks.

No stretch or give at all with the horsehide on mine. It is the thickest and stiffest horsehide I've ever handled. Also one of the nicest horsehides I've ever handled. The creases set in deep. Also the most intoxicating Shinki smell out of all the ones I've had. I've worn it regularly for 3.5 years and it's still barely broken in.

I also owned this one for a short while:

Leather was much different. It was very much like the FWs I have as far is being still thick, but spongier and more pliable and the grain was very similar. The leather also had a little give to it. This one was an older model. As you can see it doesn't have the chin strap, the bottom hem is straight whereas mine the front of the hem comes to a slight point. This one had the sleeves lined in wool which I did not like. I ultimately sold it because of the wool lined sleeves and the fit for some reason was slightly longer and it just wasn't right.

My second Rainbow Country. This one came with a full wool liner. A perfectly made wool jacket inside a leather jacket. Even the lining has its own top stitch (double stitched seams). And it's fitted to the outer shell like a glove. I've never seen anything like this, not from any of the more expensive jackets I have in other brands, except Freewheelers but they use moleskin flannel. This wool is also not scratchy. I think it's a cotton wool mix vs a melton nylon wool mix. I will look more into this.

The way they construct their jackets including the liners is the nicest I've seen. FW is the same way. They are made by the same people apparently.

The Rainbow Country horsehide is thicker than every Shinki horsehide I have. And "better" in every single way from heft to temper to finishing to grain. I've bought Shinki leather direct from Shinki's agent Hashimoto, same supplier to all the western brands who uses Shinki I believe. And none are this robust, none has this finish. Maybe on a small section it will measure 3.5oz, but most veg tan Shinki are very consistently 3oz. The chrome tan Shinkis are thinner, about 2.5oz. Whatever is at the base of this RC horsehide, it is consistently 3.5oz, one up from the Shinki I have gotten. I also have no luck buying this leather from Hashimoto. On my next order I will ask for the Rainbow Country leather and see what they say.

Agreed. The only horsehide from my experience that even comes close is the Himel Shinki. It isn't as thick as the RC stuff but just as nice for different reasons.

 

[Canuck Panda]

My single riders measures 19.5" pit to pit, 17.5" waist and 18.5" hem.



I bought mine from Mushmans and all the measurements were accurate except for the shoulder measurement which was around 0.75" or 2 cm larger than the actual measurement.

Looking at these measurements now, it seems like they fixed that. Mine is a size 34 and I bought it in 2019 and the shoulder measurement was 45 cm, now it's 43 cm.



No stretch or give at all with the horsehide on mine. It is the thickest and stiffest horsehide I've ever handled. Also one of the nicest horsehides I've ever handled. The creases set in deep. Also the most intoxicating Shinki smell out of all the ones I've had. I've worn it regularly for 3.5 years and it's still barely broken in.

View attachment 458057

I also owned this one for a short while:

View attachment 458058

Leather was much different. It was very much like the FWs I have as far is being still thick, but spongier and more pliable and the grain was very similar. The leather also had a little give to it. This one was an older model. As you can see it doesn't have the chin strap, the bottom hem is straight whereas mine the front of the hem comes to a slight point. This one had the sleeves lined in wool which I did not like. I ultimately sold it because of the wool lined sleeves and the fit for some reason was slightly longer and it just wasn't right.

View attachment 458069



The way they construct their jackets including the liners is the nicest I've seen. FW is the same way. They are made by the same people apparently.


Agreed. The only horsehide from my experience that even comes close is the Himel Shinki. It isn't as thick as the RC stuff but just as nice for different reasons.

You've got a gem there. That was the RC leather I was talking about. It's robust like CXL but very wearable. My Rainbow Country Racer jacket is in that leather, but my RC Hercules is just regular Shinki.

Rainbow Country is awesome!

 

[Canuck Panda]

Rainbow Country fans! I believe there are many other ”RC” made jackets under different brands out there, other than the now discontinued FW.

Rainbowhawaii67 is Miyoshi Sans account. Yes I have been cyber stalking him. My sick obsession with his jackets. Not all Japanese jackets are on the same level. RC made jackets is on a totally separate level than everyone else as it seems. Greg maybe sewing the shell at his level but not the lining as for now.

The hunt for more RC made jackets continues...

Anyone with Fountainhead jackets care to share a detailed inside lining pic? Trying to find out if it’s High Large or RC. Or are they the same workshop?

I have the Long Hill coming and if it indeed turns out to be RC made it would’ve be the best deal for a RC jacket, for Xzip…. Will report back when I get it…

 

[Blackadder]

Rainbow Country fans! I believe there are many other ”RC” made jackets under different brands out there, other than the now discontinued FW.
View attachment 459408 View attachment 459409 View attachment 459410
Rainbowhawaii67 is Miyoshi Sans account. Yes I have been cyber stalking him. My sick obsession with his jackets. Not all Japanese jackets are on the same level. RC made jackets is on a totally separate level than everyone else as it seems. Greg maybe sewing the shell at his level but not the lining as for now.

The hunt for more RC made jackets continues...

Anyone with Fountainhead jackets care to share a detailed inside lining pic? Trying to find out if it’s High Large or RC. Or are they the same workshop?

I have the Long Hill coming and if it indeed turns out to be RC made it would’ve be the best deal for a RC jacket, for Xzip…. Will report back when I get it…

Fine Creek was High Large. HL was a small work shop at Ueno Tokyo. Been to their work shop. Renamed or split to form FCL after a year or two. FCL's founder Yamazaki san.
https://www.wwdjapan.com/articles/1168182
Fountainhead is a new brand that focused on overseas market. It is a rare breed. I suspected it is affiliated with FCL back when it started. Now I am not sure.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Fine Creek was High Large. HL was a small work shop at Ueno Tokyo. Been to their work shop. Renamed or split to form FCL after a year or two. FCL's founder Yamazaki san.
https://www.wwdjapan.com/articles/1168182
Fountainhead is a new brand that focused on overseas market. It is a rare breed. I suspected it is affiliated with FCL back when it started. Now I am not sure.

That's cool info! I think the Taiwanese middle person is A-Teamwork Distribution right? I've seen that name pop up on the RC and FCL HL searches. I also take back what I said about the mud dyed HL super expensive Lee truckers in the negative thread. I saw the video of the Danny guy washing the leather in the river stream and it blew my mind! Lots of respect for him after seeing it. Only if I can find a used one with a more reasonable pricing.
I do still have my suspicion that workshop that makes RC is somehow involved in making some FC&Co (not FCL) and also making some Fountainhead jackets. It just seem very sus to me that FW suddenly discountinued? the three (La Brea, Centinella, San Mateo) at about the same time Fountainhead delivered its first Beta (La Brea) jacket. The only thing that threw me off at first were the sizing, but I think they've corrected that for this November delivery. Which is really just tagged one size smaller and now been corrected. At least that's what I hope is the case so I'd be getting a La Brea but under the Fountainhead label. I know people have disliked the Fountainhead's elongated length but my La Brea also measures 26" including the front drop, 24" without. And I think the 26" length is indeed including the front drop. I hope it's not 26" plus 2", 28" would be too long...
The workshop making the RC jacket makes the best jackets coming out of Japan, no competition there. Some other jackets are selling at the 200,000 yen prices too but they are not even close to the build quality from the shop that makes RC.
It'd be nice to find out everything they make, if some are indeed marketed under different brands. I've only wished I knew about these RC jackets earlier. Colimbo Stockman is also one of my saved seaches on auction now...

 

[photo2u]

View attachment 454521
View attachment 454522
View attachment 454523
View attachment 454524
View attachment 454525
View attachment 454526
View attachment 454527
View attachment 454528

The jacket is a masterpiece in my book. Love the lining. I love a well lined jacket. When I see the lining. It makes me want to get the 40 momme silk in red or burgundy for all of my future projects. I was wondering, do you have a contact for heavy silk lining? There is a Korean supplier that I have been in contact with. However, If I can get a better price, and in the thickness I need, I am down for ordering 10 yards of their 40mm cdc

 

[Blackadder]

That's cool info! I think the Taiwanese middle person is A-Teamwork Distribution right? I've seen that name pop up on the RC and FCL HL searches. I also take back what I said about the mud dyed HL super expensive Lee truckers in the negative thread. I saw the video of the Danny guy washing the leather in the river stream and it blew my mind! Lots of respect for him after seeing it. Only if I can find a used one with a more reasonable pricing.
I do still have my suspicion that workshop that makes RC is somehow involved in making some FC&Co (not FCL) and also making some Fountainhead jackets. It just seem very sus to me that FW suddenly discountinued? the three (La Brea, Centinella, San Mateo) at about the same time Fountainhead delivered its first Beta (La Brea) jacket. The only thing that threw me off at first were the sizing, but I think they've corrected that for this November delivery. Which is really just tagged one size smaller and now been corrected. At least that's what I hope is the case so I'd be getting a La Brea but under the Fountainhead label. I know people have disliked the Fountainhead's elongated length but my La Brea also measures 26" including the front drop, 24" without. And I think the 26" length is indeed including the front drop. I hope it's not 26" plus 2", 28" would be too long...
The workshop making the RC jacket makes the best jackets coming out of Japan, no competition there. Some other jackets are selling at the 200,000 yen prices too but they are not even close to the build quality from the shop that makes RC.
It'd be nice to find out everything they make, if some are indeed marketed under different brands. I've only wished I knew about these RC jackets earlier. Colimbo Stockman is also one of my saved seaches on auction now...

Y’2 also makes a leathertogs i.e. fw l brea.

 

[Canuck Panda]

The jacket is a masterpiece in my book. Love the lining. I love a well lined jacket. When I see the lining. It makes me want to get the 40 momme silk in red or burgundy for all of my future projects. I was wondering, do you have a contact for heavy silk lining? There is a Korean supplier that I have been in contact with. However, If I can get a better price, and in the thickness I need, I am down for ordering 10 yards of their 40mm cdc

40 momme is THICK! and expensive! I looked at some 35 momme silk fabric before and would cost me about 100 bucks for just 3 yards for the lining. This was at retail so wholesale may get better pricing. Real silk is the best but very pricey.
The Rainbow Country jackets are not lined in real silk, just the rayon nylon imitations. Real ones have that nice natural texture, but expensive. Good luck!

Y’2 also makes a leathertogs i.e. fw l brea.

I looked at that one too. But based on my recent used Y2 jackets I didn't go forth with it. The leather Y2 uses is very awesome, but their machine work lacks a bit. I wouldn't mind it at (ROW) Aero prices but for the ¥190k price range I would expect RC level of finishing. But the leather Y2 uses is really impressive, slightly thicker than the RC one and even more pliable and more wet CXL feel. They've got very good leather sources. This one was a private label for Dapper's. I've seen this exact same jacket under the Jelado brand for ¥198k. Same as RC pricing, but RC machine work is way better.

I did go for a Kelso La Brea though. I understand he is not on good terms here. But he does make very good jackets. I used my return customer discount so the pricing is somewhat bearable considered its in Badalassi. I've got a made in NZ Toys Mccoy car coat now and I could swear it looks to be made in the same factory that my last Kelso jacket was made from. The stitch job is just too similar. Unlike the tiny plump stitches of RC, these ones are more luxury Italian brand style, no plump. And the leather on both TMNZ and Kelso jackets are thinner than RC, 1.1mm or less.

There is this Black Hayama Palms store that is making these "Vegetable" brand "centinellas". Not much price difference than the actual Centinella, and that store generally carries Y2 stuff. So is Vegetable Centinella made by Y2 or is there a new small shop that is sprouting up? Thanks! I'm trying to collect all three FW repros with or without FW brand. Centinella prices are hard to stomach. I could get a Langlitz Comstock for less but that's more Buco style I think. I am also shocked at how expensive Langlitz is in Japan.

 

[Marc mndt]

Thanks! I'm trying to collect all three FW repros with or without FW brand.

How do you mean 'all three FW repro's? The original of course is this Leathertogs, the Centinella is just one of many contemporary repros.

 

[Canuck Panda]

How do you mean 'all three FW repro's? The original of course is this Leathertogs, the Centinella is just one of many contemporary repros.

View attachment 459620

La Brea, Centinella, San Mateo, and maybe the speed demon too but my Langlitz covered that and then some.
Yes I know they are all reproductions of vintage jackets like the Peter's and Leathertogs. I have the book and magazine too. I am just using the FW names to reference the styles.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I came across this jacket from Rainbow Country. "30s Highwayman". Basically same jacket as the single rider "Hercules" but single point yoke clean back. I've seen the clean double point yoke one before but this is a first for me, the single point yoke clean back and the HWYMan name.

 

[Blackadder]

I came across this jacket from Rainbow Country. "30s Highwayman". Basically same jacket as the single rider "Hercules" but single point yoke clean back. I've seen the clean double point yoke one before but this is a first for me, the single point yoke clean back and the HWYMan name.

View attachment 461842

Different from this one. Another version.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/rainbow-country-leather-jacket-id.92470/

 

[Canuck Panda]

I am surprised there isn't a lot of introductions from Rainbow Country this fall/winter. I've seen the dark seal A2 jacket getting introduced at a few of its retailers but no other models.
I am targeting this HWYMan and the All State. RC is the best kept secret from Japan.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Rainbow Country Highwayman, RCL-10080, a tribute to the Original Highwayman from Aero.

I got this one from Americaya store on Rakuten. Their posted measurement numbers is on the smaller side. This is a size 42, same size as Aero's premier jackets. Same size and cutting as my RMC Elvis jacket in 44. Shoulder 19", P2P 22" ish (can be 22.75" but not 23"), hem 21" ish (just a hair shy of full 22"), Back and Sleeves, 25" and 25.5" respectively. So the RC size is same as Aero's premier size.

As usual RC has impeccable machine skills with nicest quality leather from Japan. The Talon is a let down. That's not RC but repro Talon. Normal RC zips are bomb proof, I think YKK based. These Talons are not.

 

[Tom71]

Rainbow Country Highwayman, RCL-10080, a tribute to the Original Highwayman from Aero.

View attachment 465379 View attachment 465380 View attachment 465381 View attachment 465382

I got this one from Americaya store on Rakuten. Their posted measurement numbers is on the smaller side. This is a size 42, same size as Aero's premier jackets. Same size and cutting as my RMC Elvis jacket in 44. Shoulder 19", P2P 22" ish (can be 22.75" but not 23"), hem 21" ish (just a hair shy of full 22"), Back and Sleeves, 25" and 25.5" respectively. So the RC size is same as Aero's premier size.

As usual RC has impeccable machine skills with nicest quality leather from Japan. The Talon is a let down. That's not RC but repro Talon. Normal RC zips are bomb proof, I think YKK based. These Talons are not.

Woah, this is really, really nice!

 

[Blackadder]

40 momme is THICK! and expensive! I looked at some 35 momme silk fabric before and would cost me about 100 bucks for just 3 yards for the lining. This was at retail so wholesale may get better pricing. Real silk is the best but very pricey.
The Rainbow Country jackets are not lined in real silk, just the rayon nylon imitations. Real ones have that nice natural texture, but expensive. Good luck!




I looked at that one too. But based on my recent used Y2 jackets I didn't go forth with it. The leather Y2 uses is very awesome, but their machine work lacks a bit. I wouldn't mind it at (ROW) Aero prices but for the ¥190k price range I would expect RC level of finishing. But the leather Y2 uses is really impressive, slightly thicker than the RC one and even more pliable and more wet CXL feel. They've got very good leather sources. This one was a private label for Dapper's. I've seen this exact same jacket under the Jelado brand for ¥198k. Same as RC pricing, but RC machine work is way better.
View attachment 459597

I did go for a Kelso La Brea though. I understand he is not on good terms here. But he does make very good jackets. I used my return customer discount so the pricing is somewhat bearable considered its in Badalassi. I've got a made in NZ Toys Mccoy car coat now and I could swear it looks to be made in the same factory that my last Kelso jacket was made from. The stitch job is just too similar. Unlike the tiny plump stitches of RC, these ones are more luxury Italian brand style, no plump. And the leather on both TMNZ and Kelso jackets are thinner than RC, 1.1mm or less.
View attachment 459598

There is this Black Hayama Palms store that is making these "Vegetable" brand "centinellas". Not much price difference than the actual Centinella, and that store generally carries Y2 stuff. So is Vegetable Centinella made by Y2 or is there a new small shop that is sprouting up? Thanks! I'm trying to collect all three FW repros with or without FW brand. Centinella prices are hard to stomach. I could get a Langlitz Comstock for less but that's more Buco style I think. I am also shocked at how expensive Langlitz is in Japan.
View attachment 459600

That made in NZ tag is the Few aka RMNZ.