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Questions and Answers -- General Attire

The Good

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,361
Location
California, USA
Hmm, careful with grey pants? Is there a reason to do so? I'm sorry, I've had a rough day, maybe I'm not thinking straight. Please enlighten me, as I do frequently wear grey slacks or chinos. I'm thinking navy would be nice with it too, in addition to just khaki, brown, or off-white.
 
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Yeps

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,456
Location
Philly
Hmm, careful with grey pants? Is there a reason to do so? I'm sorry, I've had a rough day, maybe I'm not thinking straight. Please enlighten me, as I do frequently wear grey slacks or chinos. I'm thinking navy would be nice with it too, in addition to just khaki, brown, or off-white.

If I am wearing an odd jacket, I like to make sure there is at least a bit of contrast between the jacket and the slacks, so it doesn't look like I am trying to pretend to have a suit. However, since it is tweed, much of the contrast is created by texture. Chinos sholud work great, as would brown and off white. Gray could work, but it would take a bit more attention to make sure it looked right. Navy would look fantastic, I think.
 

fluteplayer07

One Too Many
Messages
1,844
Location
Michigan
As Yeps says, if you wear a grey too close to the jacket color, it will appear as if you're trying to imitate a full suit with two pieces, or that you're color blind. Either way, not a good impression.

I've always been told that black and brown in an ensemble is a no-no. Is this a generally accepted rule of thumb? Such as brown shoes with black trousers.

Thanks,
 

Yeps

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,456
Location
Philly
I've always been told that black and brown in an ensemble is a no-no. Is this a generally accepted rule of thumb? Such as brown shoes with black trousers.
Thanks,

I don't think it is a black and white rule (HA! I crack myself up), but I think that generally black and brown don't go well together. It can be done, but it takes a lot of subtlety, I think. I am interested to see if anyone else has a good opinion, or an example for this one.
 

Cobden

Practically Family
Messages
788
Location
Oxford, UK
I've seen black trousers worn with light brown/tan/khaki jackets, but it looks rather military. I've seen black shirts with tweed jackets, but I think that made the person wearing it look a tad....fascist landowner
 

jaymag_87

New in Town
Messages
45
Location
Dallas, Texas
Please forgive the late entry into the pleats discussion. I'm just returning to The Lounge after several months hiatis. College Football, don'tcha know.

I am just curious, so I'll raise the question here. What do you think of pleated pants? How is one supposed to wear these at their best? Is a higher rise desirable to the medium rise you typically see in stores? I own three pleated chinos, but I was considering ordering one or two more without pleats, which is a part of the reason I ask here.

I agree with Scotty. If you are young and thin then flat fronts. If you are a little older and especially a little bigger then pleated. I have a 34 inch waste but with my age I need pleats to smooth things out better. No one frowns on personal preference, but if you got the body ( male or female ) show it off. I pleat mine! John

As a man of somewhat ample size (38" to 40" pant waist) and middle age (45), I personally find flat fronts to be more flattering. Here is where I run into the rise issue. My belly is larger than my hips and tend to wear my trousers on the hip. If the rise is too high, the trouser waist band tends to roll. When I wear trousers at the waist, they tend to drop to the hip and go baggy on me, and when I pull them back up, I look like a blimp. I have to pooch out the belly to keep the pants up.

However, pleats are not out of the question, as long as they are double pleats, not triple. Double pleats work well with me, but triple pleats balloon on me.

I'm a bit of a dichotomy.

This post is basically of little use to others. :D
 

kyboots

Practically Family
Yeah! Whatever you said? I would think that double pleats worn at the waist would look the best, as it would down play the belly. Wear them with suspenders to keep them up and off the hips. I would not suggest pleats low rise as was discussed above, and flat fronts on the waist would high light the belly. Anybody does this make sense? --John.. PS Going to a Bowl?
 
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Mr Vim

One Too Many
Messages
1,306
Location
Juneau, Alaska
Fluteplayer: Where can I find a metal collar pin for less than $100?

Flute, I have found some nice vintage ones (year unknown) over at esty.com, it is a valuable source for smaller items and sometimes some great looks mens vintage.

I didn't see that question answered but if I missed another post, my apologies.

PS, I believe Jos A Bank carries them as well, somewhere in the ballpark of thirty dollars I believe.
 
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Widebrim

I'll Lock Up
As Yeps says, if you wear a grey too close to the jacket color, it will appear as if you're trying to imitate a full suit with two pieces, or that you're color blind. Either way, not a good impression.

I've always been told that black and brown in an ensemble is a no-no. Is this a generally accepted rule of thumb? Such as brown shoes with black trousers.

Thanks,

In the old days, Army, Air Force, and Marine Class B/Charlies khaki dress uniforms were worn with black shoes, but then that's not really brown and black (Navy officers still wear that combination, and Navy enlisted sometimes wear khaki shirts with black trousers). Generally speaking, such an ensemble doesn't look good. Now blue and brown, that's a different story...
 
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fluteplayer07

One Too Many
Messages
1,844
Location
Michigan
Thanks for the responses everybody. It reaffirms my belief toward the two colors, and Mr. Vim, I'll keep a closer eye to Etsy from now on.









Cheers!
 

Yeps

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,456
Location
Philly
Is there such a thing as a self-tie cummerbund? I know that the garment in question was developed in India as an alternative to the waistcoat, and was originally some sort of sash. Is there now such a garment instead of the equivalent of a pre-tied bowtie? If not, when did it become standardized as the thing which I buy in a tuxedo set?
 

Widebrim

I'll Lock Up
Hi I found this shirt today. Sorry for the bad phone photos. I am thinking 50's 60's? but I am not that versed in men's tags to date by. The material is an odd woven jersey not polyester or anything 70'sish
photo.jpg

photob.jpg

photoa.jpg

Looks '50s.
 

The Good

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,361
Location
California, USA
Online, I ordered for myself a simple work jacket made of 100% cotton, intended to be my casual alternative to a sport coat or leather jacket. The website, Duluth Trading Company, included the description that it's "a jacket like the guys down at M&H Gas used to wear." Are there any old photos I can see for reference? I'm wondering how far back the seller's describing, " It's their jacket model titled "Men's Everyday Work Jacket."

http://www.duluthtrading.com/store/.../mens-outerwear/32517.aspx?feature=product_11

image.aspx


Looks pretty classic to me, although not standing out as vintage. I wanted something that did not have a logo (hence why I skipped Carhartt and Dickies), and this seems to be what I may be looking for. I also intend to use this is cold weather, as the product description makes it seem like it could be used fine in temperatures down to ten degrees (Fahrenheit).

P.S. They seem to make a sort of tanker jacket too, anyone have experience with this company? I was tempted to go for that, but I did not, as it's supposed to be lighter weight.
 

kyboots

Practically Family
Is there such a thing as a self-tie cummerbund? I know that the garment in question was developed in India as an alternative to the waistcoat, and was originally some sort of sash. Is there now such a garment instead of the equivalent of a pre-tied bowtie? If not, when did it become standardized as the thing which I buy in a tuxedo set?
Those pre boxed sets have been out since the early 70's if not earlier when I first remember them.Of course I incorrectly had a matching cummerbund and tie for college formals at the time. Bow tie should NOT match the cummerbund. I have a couple ribbon cummerbunds that were ordered through high end mens' stores. They should be all over Washington. Check online too; I did buy one at Nordstoms several years ago. They are available.Good luck!----John
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
Is there such a thing as a self-tie cummerbund? I know that the garment in question was developed in India as an alternative to the waistcoat, and was originally some sort of sash. Is there now such a garment instead of the equivalent of a pre-tied bowtie?
Sulka and Dunhill used to carry them and I think Charvet may still; certainly for special order.

Cummerbund1950.jpg
 

Subvet642

A-List Customer
Those pre boxed sets have been out since the early 70's if not earlier when I first remember them.Of course I incorrectly had a matching cummerbund and tie for college formals at the time. Bow tie should NOT match the cummerbund. I have a couple ribbon cummerbunds that were ordered through high end mens' stores. They should be all over Washington. Check online too; I did buy one at Nordstoms several years ago. They are available.Good luck!----John

It's been my understanding that they should match; but why shouldn't they match? That would seem to make no sense. If I've been doing it wrong, I need to fix it. The Black Tie Guide states that tie, cummerbund, and dinner jacket facing should all match.

http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic_Components/Waist.htm
 

SGT Rocket

Practically Family
Messages
600
Location
Twin Cities, Minn
Waist Line

Ok, here is a really basic question. Where is your waist line? I believe it is around my belly button. Is this so?

I've just lost two inches off my waist, and I'm moving up from a 32 in inseam to a 34 inch inseam. My wast was 42 and now it's down to a 40. I'm trying to get it down to a 38.

Before, when I was larger, I seemed to wear my pants under my waist. Weird. But my pants feel really good around my belly button. I feel like I don't have a lot of extra fabric hanging off my but when I wear them at that height.
 

Yeps

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,456
Location
Philly
Ok, here is a really basic question. Where is your waist line? I believe it is around my belly button. Is this so?

I've just lost two inches off my waist, and I'm moving up from a 32 in inseam to a 34 inch inseam. My wast was 42 and now it's down to a 40. I'm trying to get it down to a 38.

Before, when I was larger, I seemed to wear my pants under my waist. Weird. But my pants feel really good around my belly button. I feel like I don't have a lot of extra fabric hanging off my but when I wear them at that height.

The way I was shown by a professional costumer was this. Bend to the side like you are doing "I'm a little teapot." The point where you pivot is your waist. This is also, generally, the narrowest point on your torso, but not necessarily.
 

kyboots

Practically Family
Those pre boxed sets have been out since the early 70's if not earlier when I first remember them.Of course I incorrectly had a matching cummerbund and tie for college formals at the time. Bow tie should NOT match the cummerbund. I have a couple ribbon cummerbunds that were ordered through high end mens' stores. They should be all over Washington. Check online too; I did buy one at Nordstoms several years ago. They are available.Good luck!----John
The bow tie should match your pants NOT the cummerbund. ( Black pants and "Black Tie" ) That's why those boxed sets that match are incorrect.Discussion?-----John
 
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