Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[JAGG]

Thanks. It sounds like the same size I found, but I always wonder about the way different people take measurements. And I also wonder whether it was modified somehow to make it so it won’t fit you? I tried but couldn’t find that seller, could you just link to the auction you won to make it easy to find?

 

[Gibby's dog]

Thanks. It sounds like the same size I found, but I always wonder about the way different people take measurements. And I also wonder whether it was modified somehow to make it so it won’t fit you? I tried but couldn’t find that seller, could you just link to the auction you won to make it easy to find?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235839938503

I've measured a few of my coats and work jackets and I agree with you. When I measure P2P I measure from the seam that runs down the side of the garment from the armpit, which effectively is the halfway point. I suspect some people lay the item flat and then measure from the material start to the material end, which will add a couple of inches.

 

[JAGG]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235839938503

I've measured a few of my coats and work jackets and I agree with you. When I measure P2P I measure from the seam that runs down the side of the garment from the armpit, which effectively is the halfway point. I suspect some people lay the item flat and then measure from the material start to the material end, which will add a couple of inches.

Yes, from what I know your way of measuring is definitely not standard. You can see that in the sellers pics, he is measuring the way Peacoat lays out in his fitting thread. The one you bought and returned does look to me like a true 42R from his pics.

My advice would be to re-read Peacoats explanation of how to measure, then pick your best fitting suit or sportcoat and measure in the way he says. Don’t use an overcoat, since you will not be using it in the same way as an overcoat. Using those measurements, you should be able to find a coat that fits you well. You may need to have a tailor bring up the arm length some, but that is standard and inexpensive. I would not be very concerned about the length of the coat, there was a good deal of variance in how long those were cut back in the day (seen from viewing period photos).

 

[Peacoat]

The spec for how the end product is made and what they need to look like: http://everyspec.com/MIL-SPECS/MIL-SPECS-MIL-O/MIL-O-2414H_33708/ If there are earlier specs that would be interesting too.

Whoops on the sailor/soldier, no disrespect intended. Wasn’t sure about it when I wrote it. But how do you feel about including more period pics. Helpful for determining proper sizing and length, as well as how typically worn, I think. I looked for and found several online pics from ww2 and after, you may have access to a lot more?

Due to the limitations of the platform, it is impossible to add photographs. The entire guide would have to be redone in order to add any text or additional photographs.

 

[Gibby's dog]

Yes, from what I know your way of measuring is definitely not standard. You can see that in the sellers pics, he is measuring the way Peacoat lays out in his fitting thread. The one you bought and returned does look to me like a true 42R from his pics.

My advice would be to re-read Peacoats explanation of how to measure, then pick your best fitting suit or sportcoat and measure in the way he says. Don’t use an overcoat, since you will not be using it in the same way as an overcoat. Using those measurements, you should be able to find a coat that fits you well. You may need to have a tailor bring up the arm length some, but that is standard and inexpensive. I would not be very concerned about the length of the coat, there was a good deal of variance in how long those were cut back in the day (seen from viewing period photos

I've read Peacoats explanation many, many times so I'm confident of the process. The coat I've just sent back was huge on me, literally far too big in every respect. As I've already said, all my suit jackets are 42" and I have had my chest measured to confirm and it's definately 42". I measured a cross section of my jackets and they come in at 22" P2P... As for tailoring, that's the story of my life. Shirts, trousers, jackets all need adjusting. At 5'5" with a 29" inside leg, 34" waist, a shirt sleeve length of 31.5 inches and a 16.5" collar I do not sit within the standard.

 

[One Drop]

Once again this site has been a great resource to me, this time in helping find a superb vintage Navy Peacoat. How I found it is uncannily similar to how i found a great vintage leather jacker a year earlier.

I've flirted with the idea of getting a nice Peacoat since decades, finally decided to get one last winter.

My first attempt buy one off eBay last year was a complete failure, I ended up with a massively overlarge 42R Sterlingwear coat that was also a bit too thin for my needs, and didn't try bother to didn't try find a better suited one.

Then I walked into my favourite Montreal vintage shop on my annual summer visit, they had three very cool examples, in different sizes and from different eras, incredibly all 3 fit me and were great choices for different reasons.

One was a 40R WWII Kersey with corduroy pockets, the wool was in great shape but the liner was quite damaged, the other two were a 38R and a 40R Kersey ones with cotton pockets from what I think were the 60s or later. Both where in great shape overall, I ended up with the 38R because I would never need to wear more than a shirt and a thin sweater with it, the 40 fit as well and would have allowed a bulky knit sweater or suit jacket or blazer to be worn underneath, for which I already have a proper dressy overcoat.

It only cost me the equivalent of USD 90.00, the WWII one was about 130.00 IIRC.

I love this thing, wore it out for the first time the other day with a dark grey vintage Pendleton's herringbone Newsboy cap I found on Etsy. It looks so sharp, cuts the wind like nothing else, the collar when up is so protective and goes right up to the cap to keep the ears warm, and it's surprisingly able to take layering while appearing very trim, the cut is perfection. Darn it if it doesn't look just as good with dark jeans worn other casual garb.

It has no label but the following small one in the one breast pocket, and has the original owner's name stencilled in the lining at the collar and in the inner pocket liner. Outer pockets are light beige cotton.

 

[Peacoat]

Once again this site has been a great resource to me, this time in helping find a superb vintage Navy Peacoat. How I found it is uncannily similar to how i found a great vintage leather jacker a year earlier.

I've flirted with the idea of getting a nice Peacoat since decades, finally decided to get one last winter.

My first attempt buy one off eBay last year was a complete failure, I ended up with a massively overlarge 42R Sterlingwear coat that was also a bit too thin for my needs, and didn't try bother to didn't try find a better suited one.

Then I walked into my favourite Montreal vintage shop on my annual summer visit, they had three very cool examples, in different sizes and from different eras, incredibly all 3 fit me and were great choices for different reasons.

One was a 40R WWII Kersey with corduroy pockets, the wool was in great shape but the liner was quite damaged, the other two were a 38R and a 40R Kersey ones with cotton pockets from what I think were the 60s or later. Both where in great shape overall, I ended up with the 38R because I would never need to wear more than a shirt and a thin sweater with it, the 40 fit as well and would have allowed a bulky knit sweater or suit jacket or blazer to be worn underneath, for which I already have a proper dressy overcoat.

It only cost me the equivalent of USD 90.00, the WWII one was about 130.00 IIRC.

I love this thing, wore it out for the first time the other day with a dark grey vintage Pendleton's herringbone Newsboy cap I found on Etsy. It looks so sharp, cuts the wind like nothing else, the collar when up is so protective and goes right up to the cap to keep the ears warm, and it's surprisingly able to take layering while appearing very trim, the cut is perfection. Darn it if it doesn't look just as good with dark jeans worn other casual garb.

It has no label but the following small one in the one breast pocket, and has the original owner's name stencilled in the lining at the collar and in the inner pocket liner. Outer pockets are light beige cotton.


View attachment 667054

Congratulations. You should have bought all three of them. The size 40 would have given you enough room to layer a sweater underneath, which makes the peacoat much warmer.

You got the real deal–a 1973 Kersey peacoat. They don't get much better than this.

 

[One Drop]

Congratulations. You should have bought all three of them. The size 40 would have given you enough room to layer a sweater underneath, which makes the peacoat much warmer.

You got the real deal–a 1973 Kersey peacoat. They don't get much better than this.

That’s majorly thanks to you that I knew what to look for.

I live in Switzerland and didn’t want to bother shipping a coat, didn’t have any more bagage room. Besides, I have down for the real cold, and live in the mountains and really don’t need two for the occasional city trips I make, this one can take a heavy shirt and decently warm wool or cashmere sweater as is, so ‘m all set.

It would have been cool to get the WWII one for bragging rights and the gorgeous wool, but Im trying hard to avoid needless purchases and to limit myself to stuff that will get frequent wear, like the gold and brown 50s shadow plaid Western coat I also just found on Etsy.

 

[Bolex]

Hi in new on here and was reading the guide to ex us navy peacoats but am still unsure of what size to go for . Firstly i understand the ww2 peacoats are meant to be the best in terms of quality and looks they fit slim but the ones i have seen here in the uk on ebay the sellers want 140 pound which seems steep considering the ones inner liner had seen better days and would be expensive to reline i guess. My other option is a newer one some have what appear to be the fake labels on as described in the guide. For reference i am a 38 inch chest my height is 174 cm so just under 5ft 9 and my weight fluxuates but currently about 12 stone i have been going to gym last year see photo a year apart difference. I intend to maybe wear the jumper in photo most of the time .Apart from ebay is there anywhere else to look in the uk?also i did see this us peacoat on ebay from an wx military uniform seller it is my chest size but a short but the label on the coat is not listed on the guide on this site?? The seller seemed to think a short would fit me and was open to returns any help much appreciated

 

[One Drop]

I think you would need a 38 or 40 Regular, not short. I have a 38R that fits my 40" chest, I'm 2" shorter than you but don't have a gut. If you just want to wear a slimmish sweater I think a 38 would work.

I'd stick to a true vintage one, preferably Kersey rather than Melton wool, eBay seems to be the best option for the UK. Keep looking and a good one at a decent price will show up.

New ones of any real quality will cost you 3 or 4 times that of a vintage one in the UK.

 

[Peacoat]

Hi in new on here and was reading the guide to ex us navy peacoats but am still unsure of what size to go for . Firstly i understand the ww2 peacoats are meant to be the best in terms of quality and looks they fit slim but the ones i have seen here in the uk on ebay the sellers want 140 pound which seems steep considering the ones inner liner had seen better days and would be expensive to reline i guess. My other option is a newer one some have what appear to be the fake labels on as described in the guide. For reference i am a 38 inch chest my height is 174 cm so just under 5ft 9 and my weight fluxuates but currently about 12 stone i have been going to gym last year see photo a year apart difference. I intend to maybe wear the jumper in photo most of the time .Apart from ebay is there anywhere else to look in the uk?also i did see this us peacoat on ebay from an wx military uniform seller it is my chest size but a short but the label on the coat is not listed on the guide on this site?? The seller seemed to think a short would fit me and was open to returns any help much appreciated.

My guide for the sizing of peacoats ought to eliminate all doubt as to the proper size. It is copied below in the last paragraph.

Basically the guide tells you that if your chest measurement is 38", then a size 38 peacoat should give you enough room to wear a sweater under it. A size 36 peacoat should be a trim fit without room for layering. The operative word is should. While it is a general rule and applies to most of the population, there are always exceptions. But that is where I would start. 90% of the population will not need to look further.

Secondly, WW II peacoats are not necessarily the best in quality. They do give a bit of a trimmer fit and have a different design that some prefer and others do not.

I have seen no discernible difference between the quality of the wool in the WW II coats compared to the post war coats, with the exception of the 1949 coats. Those coats have a shell that is softer than any of the other years, including WW II coats.

Not sure what is going on with the coat you posted images of, but I would stay away from it because of the tag. I have seen thousands of tags from issue peacoats, and this tag looks like nothing I have seen before. Looks as if it may be from a civilian copy.

Questions? Just ask.

I have found that if one gets a peacoat the same size as one's chest measurement, there will be room for layering, such as a sweater, underneath. If one goes a size smaller, it will be a trim fit with no room for a sweater. For example my chest measures a little over 41" (I'm a tweener). A size 42 will allow for a sweater, and a size 40 will be a trim fit. Some, however, prefer to go two sizes down for a really trim fit. The problem we might run into is the sleeve length may be too short if we go down two full sizes.

 

[Bolex]

My guide for the sizing of peacoats ought to eliminate all doubt as to the proper size. It is copied below in the last paragraph.

Basically the guide tells you that if your chest measurement is 38", then a size 38 peacoat should give you enough room to wear a sweater under it. A size 36 peacoat should be a trim fit without room for layering. The operative word is should. While it is a general rule and applies to most of the population, there are always exceptions. But that is where I would start. 90% of the population will not need to look further.

Secondly, WW II peacoats are not necessarily the best in quality. They do give a bit of a trimmer fit and have a different design that some prefer and others do not.

I have seen no discernible difference between the quality of the wool in the WW II coats compared to the post war coats, with the exception of the 1949 coats. Those coats have a shell that is softer than any of the other years, including WW II coats.

Not sure what is going on with the coat you posted images of, but I would stay away from it because of the tag. I have seen thousands of tags from issue peacoats, and this tag looks like nothing I have seen before. Looks as if it may be from a civilian copy.

Questions? Just ask.

I have found that if one gets a peacoat the same size as one's chest measurement, there will be room for layering, such as a sweater, underneath. If one goes a size smaller, it will be a trim fit with no room for a sweater. For example my chest measures a little over 41" (I'm a tweener). A size 42 will allow for a sweater, and a size 40 will be a trim fit. Some, however, prefer to go two sizes down for a really trim fit. The problem we might run into is the sleeve length may be too short if we go down two full sizes.

I have just come across this supposedly ex usa 60s peacoat but the label is in french ??any ideas?

 

[Peacoat]

I have never seen a tag like that, I would be leery of it.

 

[thebristolbloke]

The actual purpose of the interior button is a mystery not known to me. I have heard a theory or two, but none sounds persuasive.

The interior button can't be " . . . placed exactly underneath the middle button on that side." During sewing the buttons would be on top of each other and would interfere with the attachment. Plus, the exterior buttons are sewn on before the liner is installed, and the interior button is attached post lining installation.

When I get a chance, I will take a look at one of my peacoats that has the interior button (they all don't have them) and see where it it placed.

Amazingly I have just managed to finish plowing through the entire thread, and the one remaining question I have was mentioned in the two posts before I joined :-D


I've obtained replacement buttons for my Peacoat and am just waiting for a day off so I can pop the thing to the Tailors. I've seen that some Peacoats have an inner button but my 1949 hasn't.

My question is - were all Peacoats originally issued with an inner button?

I've seen some information that calls this button a "jiggler button" and it serves to straighten/align the flaps for a straight fit. Am mostly interested in function over form if am being honest!

All the best

Phil

 

[Peacoat]

Amazingly I have just managed to finish plowing through the entire thread, and the one remaining question I have was mentioned in the two posts before I joined :-D


I've obtained replacement buttons for my Peacoat and am just waiting for a day off so I can pop the thing to the Tailors. I've seen that some Peacoats have an inner button but my 1949 hasn't.

My question is - were all Peacoats originally issued with an inner button?

I've seen some information that calls this button a "jiggler button" and it serves to straighten/align the flaps for a straight fit. Am mostly interested in function over form if am being honest!

All the best

Phil

Congratulations on finishing the thread. That is dedication.

As you are concerned with function over form, don't worry about that button. I don't know which of my 15 or so peacoats have it and and which ones don't as I never use the button.

If I truly needed something to worry about, that button would be last on my list.

When you take your coat in for repair, you might ask the seamstress/taylor if she/he will use nylon thread and a button on the inside of the coat to anchor the big button. You probably saw those tips somewhere in the thread. If those two are used, you will never have a problem with loose buttons again.