Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Trenchfriend]

The typical thing on my massmarket-peacoat, like on so many cheaper massmarket-products:

The wrong size-label is sewn-in. Marked as a german (N) 50, but it's fitting me absolutely correct, all around. So, it's unmissable a (N) 48, not a (N) 50. If it would be a (N) 50, it would be too wide for me, all around.

But, it's truly a real winter-peacoat, with it's peacoat-typical doubled shell and the additional quilted winter-padding. I like it much.

 

[Cooperson]

That is an excellent fit--the way they should fit when worn without a sweater (jumper). I can't even tell the buttons have been moved.

Did you have them moved about an inch (2.5 cm)?

Yes, they were moved about an inch, it doesn't sound a lot but it made a big differnce to the fit, it's now very comfortable to wear. The old stitch marks can just be detected, if you look very closely, but with a bit of a brush they almost disappear.

 

[Peacoat]

Yes, they were moved about an inch, it doesn't sound a lot but it made a big differnce to the fit, it's now very comfortable to wear. The old stitch marks can just be detected, if you look very closely, but with a bit of a brush they almost disappear.

I have found that buttons on double breasted coats can be moved about an inch without being noticeable. Yours looks good. I'm glad you tried moving the buttons for a better fit.

As I remember we had some fit problems with this particular peacoat. I think it was actually a smaller size than what was indicated on the label? It was the first time I had seen that particular problem, and because of that, I started recommending prospective buyers obtain an accurate p2p measurement from the seller. Since your problem with the wrong size tag on the garment when you got it several years ago, I have come across it four or five other times.

Glad this one worked out for you.

 

[Cooperson]

As I remember we had some fit problems with this particular peacoat. I think it was actually a smaller size than what was indicated on the label? It was the first time I had seen that particular problem, and because of that, I started recommending prospective buyers obtain an accurate p2p measurement from the seller. Since your problem with the wrong size tag on the garment when you got it several years ago, I have come across it four or five other times.

Glad this one worked out for you.

Yes, this one was a little trim but it was 40" Dale Fashions coat that was really way off, huge shoulder width that swamped me. Managed to sell it on eBay but the next 40" I bought, I made sure to ask for all measurements and it worked out fine - lesson learned.

 

[Saint Johnny]

Congratulations!
Fortunately for you there are plenty of USN vintage pea coats in sizes 36-38.

Yes. After acquiring 3 fairly recently, in quick succession. I think I may need one or two more.

 

[Spoonbelly]

Yes. After acquiring 3 fairly recently, in quick succession. I think I may need one or two more.

My size is fairly rare, 46 or 46L. I found it a bit harder to find the older Kersey coats in my size. You may find these coats to be addicting as I had. The quality of coat that you get for their price is outrageous, ESPECIALLY the older Kersey coats. I have a small collection, but also have a lifetime supply of winter coats. I also donated a few that didn't fit right or I wasn't too crazy about.

 

[mihai]

My size is fairly rare, 46 or 46L. I found it a bit harder to find the older Kersey coats in my size. You may find these coats to be addicting as I had. The quality of coat that you get for their price is outrageous, ESPECIALLY the older Kersey coats. I have a small collection, but also have a lifetime supply of winter coats. I also donated a few that didn't fit right or I wasn't too crazy about.

46 is very rare indeed. I see that seldom on eBay. 44 ones are a bit more common. I have a 44 ww2 one vgc that I bought by mistake. Maybe I'll sell it one day.

Yes. After acquiring 3 fairly recently, in quick succession. I think I may need one or two more.

Yep ultimately you end up with a collection. I started the same with 1 of each type. Now I do not know by heart how many I have, unfortunately. I don't even get to wear most of them. In the morning usually I grab 80% of time 1-2 beater jackets that happen to be always handy (due to lack of time, mood to dress up)

 

[Kestrel452]

Hey FedoraLoungers,

I've been on the hunt for a proper Chicago winter jacket, as walking to and from the office multiple times per day in 0-15 degree weather is taking its toll... My current winter coat is a Jos A Bank "executive" "peacoat", which I'll be honest, is trash and doesn't provide much warmth. It also seems every parka made these days is technical looking unless you spring for Canada Goose (I'm considering the Banff). The Woolrich I tried is also junk and got returned, which is sad since they're seemingly the only ones left making classic/rustic style parkas these days.

Thus, I had the inspiration to get a new peacoat. To be honest, I now think US Navy pattern peacoats are probably some of the best looking jackets, period. I didn't even know they were still made or had such a massive "vintage" resale market until last week. Truly one of those "where have I been this whole time?" moments. If genuine US Navy peacoats can protect sailors on the windy deck of a destroyer in the arctic circle, then it's a classic looking jacket more than functional enough for anyone else like me who hates modern technical looking outwear. After doing some reading, it seems the difference between real peacoats and department store copies is day and night. So...it's time to buy a couple...or three

I do have some questions about them for whoever can lend a helping hand:
1) Sterlingwear says their "Authentic" is warmer than the "Classic" even though they use 24 oz and 32 oz wool (respectively). The rep told me it was because of the lining, which apparently serves as an insulating material. But, they're both lined... How does their insulation/lining differ, if at all? It's very confusing how a jacket with a heavier weight wool would be less warm.
2) I see that Schott's classic peacoat also uses 32 oz wool and has quilted lining like the Sterling Classic. Is the quilted lining inferior?
3) Does the fact both the Schott's and Sterlingware Classic use a wool/nylon blend affect warmth, comfort, or aesthetic appeal as compared with jackets made with 100% wool?
4) Is reprocessed wool really that much of an inferior material?
5) Except for the Sterlingware "mil-spec" pea coats that civilians can sometimes get their hands on, which brand/model of new production peacoat would you purchase (assuming you wanted buy-it-for-life quality)?
6) I bought this (officer's?) peacoat off Etsy the other day. What do you all think? I'd rather save this one for use on special/formal occasions, and buy another plain black-button peacoat for everyday use. https://www.etsy.com/listing/464085516/1960s-military-sailor-mens-heavy-wool

If it helps, my chest measures at 40", and I'm 5' 10" at 170 lbs. Thank you in advance for any help

 

[Peacoat]

That is a 1966 peacoat with the nice Kersey wool shell. It is a good peacoat. Actually it is a reefer, as that is name given to peacoats that used to be worn by officers and chiefs. They no longer wear the reefer. They all wear the bridge coat, which is a long version of the peacoat like you have, but with lighter weight wool and a zip out liner, to add warmth.

The seller listed the size as "Chest: 22 inches." I think the intent was to give the p2p measurement. Even so, he probably screwed that up as this peacoat ought to have a p2p of 21.25" plus or minus. With your 40" chest, it will fit you a little loosely and have room to wear a sweater under it, which the peacoat needs in cold weather, such as Chicago, especially Chicago. A sweater will fill in the space, reduce air transfer and give more insulation. The Kersey will do you well and block most of the wind that is constantly swirling in the Chicago winter. If you want a more fitted peacoat, a size 38 should do you well, but you would have no room for a sweater, which is needed in Chicago. Having spent considerable time in NYC, and some time in Chicago, I have to say that Chicago is 3X colder.

As to the warmth of peacoats, forget about them being worn on the deck of a destroyer in the arctic circle. First of all, the Navy is too smart to take a destroyer to the arctic in the winter. If perchance that were to happen, the sailors on deck, if any, would be dressed in something other than a peacoat--probably a deck jacket or special arctic garments. The peacoat is worn with the dress uniform for shore leave. It does a good job of blocking the wind, offering some water resistance and giving warmth when paired with the proper layering.

You have a lot of other questions that I can't really answer as my speciality is vintage Navy peacoats, not civilian wannabe peacoats. I will say that the Sterlingwear mil. spec. is the way to go if you want a current issue peacoat. It is the coat that is sold to the Navy for issue to the sailors, and is by far the best on the market. Just call them and tell them what you want. It isn't available online; you have to call. I used to know the name of the rep to call, but her name escapes me now. However, the vintage coats are the best bet, as they are superior, in my opinion. I would stay away from any of the civilian copies.

Sterlingwear is a quality company and has the current Navy contract, which it has held for many years now. If you just have to have a civilian copy, I would go with Sterlingwear. We collaborated on a minor writing project (me writing, they publishing) several years ago, and I found them to be a top notch company that cares about the history of the peacoat.

If the peacoat you recently bought fits you well, and allows a sweater to be worn underneath, which I think it will, I would change the buttons to the black plastic and keep that as your everyday wear coat. You will need to wear a full sweater under it, as a wool vest won't take up the space in the sleeves that allows cold air to creep in.

Here is a link to some information I think you will find useful. BTW welcome to the Lounge. P.C.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...-dating-the-united-states-navy-peacoat.72058/

 

[Doctor Damage]

Here's some good clear pics of the Buzz Rickson repro of a WW2 coat... members can decide how accurate it is.

 

[Peacoat]

Interesting that they didn't put the flapped cargo pockets on the coat. I thought that was a feature of the model preceding the WWII peacoat? They got the buttons right, but the absence of the cargo pockets is puzzling.

 

[Peacoat]

Puzzle solved. The WWI peacoat was replaced in 1930. It was in effect until 1938, I believe, when the WWII peacoat came into being. So the Buzz Rickson is a reproduction of the peacoat for those 8 years just preceding the WWII style. Now if I can just remember this the next time the question is raised.

Below is language from the 1930 Coast Guard uniform regulations that describe the peacoat, officially known as the "overcoat." Although this is from the CG regs, The CG and the Navy used the same uniforms. Note there is no mention of the flapped cargo pockets that were on the WWI peacoat. They were eliminated in 1930. In 1938 the vertical pockets were changed

456. OVERCOAT.
Material.-- Navy Standard, dark blue. 30-ounce cloth.
Garment Specifications -- Double breasted, button to neck, circular collar; five large black anchor buttons down each front; two vertical breast pockets, one inside breast pocket and one inside small change pocket.

Although I am unable to find any official confirmation, I believe the WWII pockets were placed lower on the body of the coat than on the preceding models. My WWII coat has the pockets centered on the next to last button; earlier versions were a bit higher, being centered one button up. Although it is interesting to note, the Buzz Rickson model has the pocket lower than the WWI model, but higher than the WWII model.

Here are the complete pocket specs for the 1930 regulations on which the Buzz Rickson is based (bolding added):

Pockets.-- Two vertical muff pockets fitted in at the level of the elbows; bar tacked at the ends; edges of the pockets double stitched, 1/2 inch wide with a triangular stitching at the ends; ends of pockets stayed and tacked to canvas; opening approximately seven inches; extending approximately an equal distance above the second button from the top and below the third button from the top. Pockets to be lined with velveteen. One right inside breast pocket, 6 inches long, 7 1/2 inches deep, approximately 14 inches below the shoulder; 4 1/2 inches from the right edge of the front, lined with silesia. One left inside small change pocket 4 inches wide and 4 inches deep, opening 4 inches from the left edge of the coat midway between the 4th and 5th buttons from the top, with silesia.

Here are the specs for the Pockets for the 1938 amendment (with bolding added):

Pockets. Two vertical muff pockets fitted in at the level of the elbows; bar tacked at the ends; edges of the pockets double stitched, 1/2 inch wide with a triangular stitching at the ends; ends of pockets stayed and tacked to canvas; opening approximately seven inches; extending approximately an equal distance above the second button from the top and below the third button from the top. Pockets to be lined with velveteen. One right inside breast pocket, 6 inches long, 7 1/2 inches deep, approximately 14 inches below the shoulder; 4 1/2 inches from the right edge of the front, lined with silesia. One left inside small change pocket 4 inches wide and 4 inches deep, opening 4 inches from the left edge of the coat midway between the 4th and 5th buttons from the top, lined with silesia.

It appears to me the placement of the pockets remains unchanged by the amendment, but the actual placement of the buttons has definitely changed. The Buzz Rickson model has the buttons lower than specified by the regs, and my WWII model has the buttons even lower. Make of it what you will.

 

[Worf]

New to me, '49 Kersey Wool Peacoat. Mucho thanks to Sir Peacoat for helping me score this mint condition beauty.

Worf

 

[Peacoat]

Now there is one happy Upstater. Looks good. And you have the two most important accessories for a peacoat--gloves and a scarf.

 

[Spoonbelly]

New to me, '49 Kersey Wool Peacoat. Mucho thanks to Sir Peacoat for helping me score this mint condition beauty.

Worf

Is that the size 48 that was just on ebay? '49 is an exceptional year. The Kersey material is very thick, very tuff, but soft. I had a '49 coat which was too small for me so I resold it. Wish I had a '49 in my size (46 or 46Long).

 

[Peacoat]

Yep, Worf snagged it. I told him I knew the seller, and if IrishDon said the coat was in pristine condition, he could bank it. He did and it was.

 

[Trenchfriend]

@Worf
Man, THAT'S, what I call a "good match"!!

 

[EmergencyIan]

New to me, '49 Kersey Wool Peacoat. Mucho thanks to Sir Peacoat for helping me score this mint condition beauty.

Worf

God, that looks perfect, Worf! Congrats, man.

- Ian

 

[Worf]

Now there is one happy Upstater. Looks good. And you have the two most important accessories for a peacoat--gloves and a scarf.

Ah had to, it was a freezin' out there! LOL!

Worf

 

[Worf]

Yep, Worf snagged it. I told him I knew the seller, and if IrishDon said the coat was in pristine condition, he could bank it. He did and it was.

Yeah, you'd swear in court the thing's never been worn! I'm soooooooo happy! Normally I don't wear anything squid related (G1's N1's etc...) but the peacoat is universal it transcends even MY Army veteran bias.

Worf

PS sorry, bout the blurry pic. I'll do better later.