Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[responsible D]

Hi Mr. Peacoat, I was hoping I could get your take on something. I've been looking for a vintage peacoat (8 button/kersey/corduroy) in size 40L. Despite having set up what I believe are the appropriate searches on eBay and following them religiously since last winter, I have yet to see a single '50s or '60s era coat in that size. I would have expected to have seen something by now. It's led me to think that maybe L sizes just weren't made back in that era.

Do you have any thoughts about this? Have I just been unlucky, or are vintage Ls super-rare or even nonexistent?

 

[Spoonbelly]

Hi Mr. Peacoat, I was hoping I could get your take on something. I've been looking for a vintage peacoat (8 button/kersey/corduroy) in size 40L. Despite having set up what I believe are the appropriate searches on eBay and following them religiously since last winter, I have yet to see a single '50s or '60s era coat in that size. I would have expected to have seen something by now. It's led me to think that maybe L sizes just weren't made back in that era.

Do you have any thoughts about this? Have I just been unlucky, or are vintage Ls super-rare or even nonexistent?

From my experience a few years ago I would scour ebay and the internet for vintage dark blue Kersey pea coats in long sizes. I did this for 2 or 3 years. The oldest year I have come across in L (longs) is from 1969. My size is a 46. I can wear size 46, but 46L is ideal. I never came across a Long size made before 1969. If they do exist, they are VERY rare. How tall are you? I'm almost 6'-3' and regular lengths are just long enough in the body and the sleeves for me. I do like the L (long) sizes better as I have 2 1969 46Ls. I also have 2 black Melton coats from the '80s which are 46XL (extra long). Surprisingly I find the Melton XL sizes to be the same as the Kersey L sizes in both body length and sleeve length. My other 6 Kersey coats are R (regular) length. Peacoat could probably shed more knowledge on this to you. You might have to settle for a L or XL Melton coat.

 

[FedOregon]

When I was in high school, 1975 - 1978, I wore my Dad's Navy Peacoat all the time. Now I'm too fat to wear. I had all the buttons when I went overseas for just 2 years, but when I got back my little brother had lost all of the buttons. I took back the coat in disgust at the overall poor treatment of my Dad's Navy coat, had it dry cleaned and it's been in the closet ever since.

My Dad was in the Navy about 1948 - 1952. No wars for him but he traveled from Greenland to Japan and back to Bremerton, Washington. I'll go home and take a look at his coat and see how it fits into your descriptions of Navy Peacoats. I know there is a cut into the wool near the outer, topside of the left shoulder. I forget how my Dad said that happened, but it happened when he was still in the service. I'm sure it has the white label sewn onto the inside pocket on the left side.

I was thinking of getting this peacoat fixed up with all the buttons again and gifting it to my skinny nephew. Is there a source for period correct buttons?

Thanks for reading through this meandering account...

 

[responsible D]

I never came across a Long size made before 1969. If they do exist, they are VERY rare.

I appreciate your comments. That's consistent with what I've found so far, to my disappointment.

I do see that there are a few Kersey XLs listed on the Vintage Trends web site that are said to be from 1968. But if my notes from reading Peacoat's various comments are accurate, that's the year after corduroy pockets were eliminated in favor of plain cotton, so it's not my ideal coat.

How tall are you? I'm almost 6'-3' and regular lengths are just long enough in the body and the sleeves for me.

I'm 6'-3" as well, and 170, with long arms. Trying to find clothes with both a good fit in the body and sufficient arm length has always been a challenge. It sounds like you have an easier time.

You might have to settle for a L or XL Melton coat.

I actually do have a couple of those. Last fall I bought my first one, a 1973 Pembroke Melton in 40L. I think maybe it was the first year they did Melton? Peacoat wrote something about it, I'm forgetting the details now. Anyway it's a very nice coat but a bit roomy on me - the p2p measurement is bigger than what you'd expect for a 40, for some reason, and the place that sold it didn't give a p2p measurement in the ad.

And just last week I picked up a black Sterlingware in 40L that I believe is a 1990. It's slightly more snug than the 1973, but not as much as I would like.

So for a long time now I've been hoping to find an older vintage because I thought it would be more snug in the body compared to my 1973, as well as having all the great classic features. But it's starting to sound like that may not be possible to find. It's hard to believe though. What did the lanky Navy guys do before 1969, did they just let their wrists hang out in the cold?

I'm also starting to think a 38 might be interesting to try on for fit, if I could find one to try...

 

[responsible D]

I have to thank Peacoat for his info. I just got a ca. 1968 Peacoat made by Pembroke, size 38L. I have a 39,5-40" chest and it fits perfect with just a shirt under it. Sleeve length is perfect as well.

Since I'm in the market myself I'd be interested in any more details you're willing to share.
p2p measurement when laid flat? (I'm trying to figure out if 38 would work on me)
Sleeve length from top to cuff?
Type of pocket lining?
Where did you find it?
How much?

Thanks!

 

[Spoonbelly]

When I was in high school, 1975 - 1978, I wore my Dad's Navy Peacoat all the time. Now I'm too fat to wear. I had all the buttons when I went overseas for just 2 years, but when I got back my little brother had lost all of the buttons. I took back the coat in disgust at the overall poor treatment of my Dad's Navy coat, had it dry cleaned and it's been in the closet ever since.

My Dad was in the Navy about 1948 - 1952. No wars for him but he traveled from Greenland to Japan and back to Bremerton, Washington. I'll go home and take a look at his coat and see how it fits into your descriptions of Navy Peacoats. I know there is a cut into the wool near the outer, topside of the left shoulder. I forget how my Dad said that happened, but it happened when he was still in the service. I'm sure it has the white label sewn onto the inside pocket on the left side.

I was thinking of getting this peacoat fixed up with all the buttons again and gifting it to my skinny nephew. Is there a source for period correct buttons?

Thanks for reading through this meandering account...

Ebay would be the best place to look for the large anchor buttons. They are very common. Not sure if the vintage vary from the newer buttons ( I don't think so though), but you could search for "vintage" US Navy Pea Coat buttons also on ebay.

 

[Doctor Damage]

What did the lanky Navy guys do before 1969, did they just let their wrists hang out in the cold?

They were shorter, statistically.

 

[Peacoat]

The early buttons were Bakelite, and they are difficult to find. But a 1948 coat had the standard later issue fouled anchor plastic buttons. As Spoon said, the are readily available on eBay.

I don't think long sizes were issued prior to the late 60s. Not positive as it is difficult to prove a negative, especially in this area.

 

[FedOregon]

My Dad's coat is a 38. I'm now a 46 - 48, depending on the cut. Oh, and the white label is on the right side, not left as I posted above. He wrote his name on the white label and his service number.

Thank you for the information on the buttons. I have one of the bakelight buttons still on the coat. Forgot to check what type of fabric was used in the pockets. This is a 3 - button model so I need 5 more buttons.

 

[Peacoat]

My Dad's coat is a 38. I'm now a 46 - 48, depending on the cut. Oh, and the white label is on the right side, not left as I posted above. He wrote his name on the white label and his service number.

Thank you for the information on the buttons. I have one of the bakelight buttons still on the coat. Forgot to check what type of fabric was used in the pockets. This is a 3 - button model so I need 5 more buttons.

Actually, you don't need the Bakelite buttons for a 1948 peacoat. You only need the standard fouled anchor plastic buttons for your coat.

 

[FedOregon]

Thank you!

 

[RDS]

How pleased am I ?

Although in the UK I've just managed to get my hands on a WW2 issue peacoat in virtually immaculate condition and in my larger 42 size.

Thanks to the information gleaned from this forum I think it probably dates from somewhere between 1943 and 1945/46.

It has eight buttons showing, a throat strap, 2 lines of stitching on the bottom of the sleeves, a printed Naval Clothing Factory label and light brown corduroy lining to the pockets.

Apart from the original serviceman's name his rating has also been handwritten as 'SK3C' which I gather is 'Storekeeper 3rd Class'

As said above the condition is almost immaculate with virtually no wear to the most obvious places such as collar, cuffs, pockets or button holes. Also, all the buttons are still attached with what is clearly their original thread and none have even had to be re-sewn. The kersey material does have some very, very minor moth tracking, however that is being particularly picky and probably should be expected considering the coat is approx 70 years old.

While genuine US Navy issue peacoats are to be found on this side of the Atlantic as would be expected the choice is limited and they generally tend to be much more recent i.e. 2000's and later. Those I've seen which date from earlier are either in poor/fair to average condition and in smaller sizes (36-38)

To find a kersey peacoat in such fine condition and in my size is one thing but for it to date from WW2 really is the cherry on the icing on the cake !

 

[Peacoat]

You did well. Welcome to the Lounge.

 

[RDS]

You did well. Welcome to the Lounge.

Thanks.
I should've also said that the only obvious 'flaw' in my WW2 peacoat is that it's missing the size label at the neck. Although I gather this is fairly common due to the material the label is made from thanks to your extensive knowledge and advice estimating the size wasn't an issue. In addition the coat only cost me the grand sum of the equivalent of $90 incl. delivery.

One thing which has put me in a bit of a quandary is that because of the peacoat being in such great condition I almost don't want to wear it in case it gets damaged or overly worn. After it surviving 70 years or so I'd feel very guilty if it ended up in poorer shape under my 'watch'

Fortunately I also have a 1971 Pembroke kersey peacoat in equally fine condition I can use as my 'daily driver' This was another good find in the UK as it only cost me about $50

 

[Peacoat]

Very few of the coats have the label at the neck. It is, as you said, because of the material it is made of.

Don't worry much about damaging the coat while it is being worn; worry instead about protecting from moth damage when not being worn. As you have two of them, you will be a long time wearing them out. Probably take several lifetimes for that to happen.

 

[RDS]

Very few of the coats have the label at the neck. It is, as you said, because of the material it is made of.

Don't worry much about damaging the coat while it is being worn; worry instead about protecting from moth damage when not being worn. As you have two of them, you will be a long time wearing them out. Probably take several lifetimes for that to happen.

Although when bought both peacoats were in what looked to be a fine, clean condition to ensure nothing unwanted might be lurking and so introduced to feast on the coats and my other woollen clothing the first thing I did was to have each one dry cleaned.
Once done and back from the cleaners they were then hung in my wardrobe along with some anti-moth protection.

Fortunately, and not wishing to tempt fate, I've never had any problems with moths dining on my clothes and hopefully this, possibly over cautious, approach will keep it that way.

 

[Spoonbelly]

Although when bought both peacoats were in what looked to be a fine, clean condition to ensure nothing unwanted might be lurking and so introduced to feast on the coats and my other woollen clothing the first thing I did was to have each one dry cleaned.
Once done and back from the cleaners they were then hung in my wardrobe along with some anti-moth protection.

Fortunately, and not wishing to tempt fate, I've never had any problems with moths dining on my clothes and hopefully this, possibly over cautious, approach will keep it that way.

I have a few peacoats. In the off season I keep each one in a vinyl clothes bag in a separate "woolens closet" with a box of moth balls opened from April through Oct. I then take each coat out of it's bag and then close the box of moth balls and keep the moth balls unopened in a plastic bag still inside the closet. I don't think any critters will attack my coats doing this every year.

 

[Peacoat]

I have a few peacoats. In the off season I keep each one in a vinyl clothes bag in a separate "woolens closet" with a box of moth balls opened from April through Oct. I then take each coat out of it's bag and then close the box of moth balls and keep the moth balls unopened in a plastic bag still inside the closet. I don't think any critters will attack my coats doing this every year.

That is a good system, Spoon. But moths live and eat during the winter as well. Do you wear yours frequently enough that the moths are kept away during the cold months?

I have so many peacoats and leather jackets that it is difficult for me to wear mine often enough to keep the moths scared away. I protect all of my wool 12 months a year.

 

[Atticus Finch]

From my experience a few years ago I would scour ebay and the internet for vintage dark blue Kersey pea coats in long sizes. I did this for 2 or 3 years. The oldest year I have come across in L (longs) is from 1969. My size is a 46. I can wear size 46, but 46L is ideal. I never came across a Long size made before 1969. If they do exist, they are VERY rare. How tall are you? I'm almost 6'-3' and regular lengths are just long enough in the body and the sleeves for me. I do like the L (long) sizes better as I have 2 1969 46Ls. I also have 2 black Melton coats from the '80s which are 46XL (extra long). Surprisingly I find the Melton XL sizes to be the same as the Kersey L sizes in both body length and sleeve length. My other 6 Kersey coats are R (regular) length. Peacoat could probably shed more knowledge on this to you. You might have to settle for a L or XL Melton coat.

Actually, peacoats first became available in regular, long and short in the late fifties or very early sixties. Here's the spec tag from a 1962 coat that denotes it as a 36 regular. The tags on earlier coats...i.e., from the mid fifties...simply state a numerical size.

http://s48.photobucket.com/user/g-1/media/IMG_1437_zpsheevckty.jpg.html]

AF

 

[Spoonbelly]

That is a good system, Spoon. But moths live and eat during the winter as well. Do you wear yours frequently enough that the moths are kept away during the cold months?

I have so many peacoats and leather jackets that it is difficult for me to wear mine often enough to keep the moths scared away. I protect all of my wool 12 months a year.

I leave the box of moth balls in the closet all year long. You can smell them all winter long. I guess the draw back is the coats smell of moth balls. While the smell doesn't bother me, some people don't like it. I'd rather smell the moth balls then risk damage to my coats. I started wearing them this past week as the temps up here in NY went cold for a spell.