Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[cjamesbrough]

This may have been addressed/answered earlier in this thread but is Sterlingwear out of business or...? Their website is down and the customer service email I tried just bounces back to me.

I have a very nice WWII 10-button peacoat that I want to replace with a nice black peacoat but want something as true to the original as possible, hence Sterlingwear. Would I be better off going with the Schott 740 Classic?

 

[Peacoat]

Hey Peacoat:
Any idea of the actual measurements for a sz 34? Sh/sh, p/p and sh to arm cuff?
Thanks Bowen

For a vintage size 34 the p2p is 19". Interestingly, the current issue models are 18".* Of course this is subject to change. I will need to dig one out to measure the other points.

* EDIT NOTE: I measured a current issue p2p and found it is also 19". Don't know where the 18" came from.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

For a vintage size 34 the p2p is 19". Interestingly, the current issue models are 18". Of course this is subject to change. I will need to dig one out to measure the other points.

Thanks man.
Hoping this one will fit my 24yo daughter.
B

 

[Peacoat]

The vintage 34 has a shoulder of 18". The sleeve length, taken down the outside of the sleeve following the curve of the elbow is 26".

The current issue 34 also has a shoulder of 18". I measured the p2p and got 19". Don't know where I got the 18" p2p stated in the earlier post. Interestingly on the sleeve length I got 23.5" on the current issue. But I was unable to find the elbow curve to measure that way. My back got tired leaning over the bed, so I quit measuring.

 

[Peacoat]

Thanks man.
Hoping this one will fit my 24yo daughter.
B

If you want to compare her body size with my wife's, my wife is 5' 4" and 120 lb. The 34s is a little large on her. If she wears a heavy sweater, it is a better fit. She would do better with a size 32s, which is truly a child's size.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Thank you Peacoat, you are a gentleman.
I got measurements from the seller and am going to compare them to a jacket that fits her well.
Thanks
Bowen

 

[Peacoat]

Thank you Peacoat, you are a gentleman.
I got measurements from the seller and am going to compare them to a jacket that fits her well.
Thanks
Bowen

If a 34s fits her, I have a current issue (1980) and a vintage peacoat in 34s I would sell you at less than the eBay seller's price. My wife has three and only needs one.

 

[regius]

Peacoat, if I may ask, according to the serial on my jacket, does it mean it’s issued in 1995? The middle two numbers are -95-


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[regius]

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[Peacoat]

Peacoat, if I may ask, according to the serial on my jacket, does it mean it’s issued in 1995? The middle two numbers are -95-


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Yes, the year of contract was 1995. Probably was issued soon thereafter.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

If a 34s fits her, I have a current issue (1980) and a vintage peacoat in 34s I would sell you at less than the eBay seller's price. My wife has three and only needs one.

Thank you Peacoat. That’s very generous. I made an offer and am waiting on a counter offer. I will def keep that in mind.
Bowen

 

[Sonero]

Schott vs Sterling Wear:

I have been wearing peacoats this year and own both a Schott 740n and A SW Authentic . It was very easy for me to notice the difference. Hopefully this information helps someone.

Schott - Thicker Wool, Warmer, Roomy fit that allows for a medium sweater underneath.
SW Authentic - More tailored fit which looks more like a blazer would fit. Much thinner material. I have a problem believing it would be sufficient during cold winter month, more like Spring / Early Fall NYC.

Both size 36R

Maybe own both for different seasons ?

On the flip side I own a used Kearnsey Wool Govt. Issue P from the 70's and it destroys both Schott and SW in quality and performance.

There it is.....

 

[Peacoat]

Yes, the pre 1980 Kersey coats are by far the best of all the peacoats.

 

[Carruthers]

Hi all, this is a great thread and I have a question, but first my pea coat origin story.

I have a couple of vintage coats (Brooks Brothers trench and overcoat) so when I decided that I needed to add a pea coat, I started at the better secondhand stores near where I live in Toronto. To be honest, I didn't know about the quality and availability of Navy-issued coats when I started but two on the rack I was browsing stood out for being really solid and in great condition (and a great price at ~US$50). They are both marked with "Kersey" tags but at 36 and 42, were too big or too small for me. Anyway, I was hooked, checked a few surplus stores here and started watching ebay auctions.

But then I got impatient. Googling revealed that there is an outdoor surplus store near me that sells Navy-issued vintage pea coats through their website. Based on the photos and the low-key description, it's a mixed lot and you get what you get based on your size. The price is still pretty good at ~US$85-90, including shipping. I rolled the dice and waited for my new (to me) coat to arrive.

Did I ever luck out. I'm now the proud owner of 1953 (TAP at the start of the contract number and 53 at the end) issued and worn pea coat in really excellent condition. It appears to have been altered at some point for shorter sleeves (that fit me perfectly) but otherwise shows almost no signs of wear.

Except! There is no inside button (a.k.a. jigger) on the left side. Were coats of this vintage supposed to have that button? I have looked very very closely and can't see signs that my coat ever had one. If I wanted to add one, should it be behind the top or middle (of the three showing buttons on my left side)?

 

[Sonero]

Hi all, this is a great thread and I have a question, but first my pea coat origin story.

I have a couple of vintage coats (Brooks Brothers trench and overcoat) so when I decided that I needed to add a pea coat, I started at the better secondhand stores near where I live in Toronto. To be honest, I didn't know about the quality and availability of Navy-issued coats when I started but two on the rack I was browsing stood out for being really solid and in great condition (and a great price at ~US$50). They are both marked with "Kersey" tags but at 36 and 42, were too big or too small for me. Anyway, I was hooked, checked a few surplus stores here and started watching ebay auctions.

But then I got impatient. Googling revealed that there is an outdoor surplus store near me that sells Navy-issued vintage pea coats through their website. Based on the photos and the low-key description, it's a mixed lot and you get what you get based on your size. The price is still pretty good at ~US$85-90, including shipping. I rolled the dice and waited for my new (to me) coat to arrive.

Did I ever luck out. I'm now the proud owner of 1953 (TAP at the start of the contract number and 53 at the end) issued and worn pea coat in really excellent condition. It appears to have been altered at some point for shorter sleeves (that fit me perfectly) but otherwise shows almost no signs of wear.

Except! There is no inside button (a.k.a. jigger) on the left side. Were coats of this vintage supposed to have that button? I have looked very very closely and can't see signs that my coat ever had one. If I wanted to add one, should it be behind the top or middle (of the three showing buttons on my left side)?

Better to post photo of where the button would be. I am having a hard time judging by words alone.

 

[Carruthers]

Better to post photo of where the button would be. I am having a hard time judging by words alone.

My idea is that the inside button should go somewhere close to where the pen is in the photo.

 

[Sonero]

My idea is that the inside button should go somewhere close to where the pen is in the photo.

If I understand you correctly this button is sometimes used in double breasted blazers for a more tapered fit. Owning now 3 peacoats I don't see any buttons on mine nor the need for those type of buttons. The neck closure button would be more important to me.
Is there a reason you yearn for this button placement ?

 

[Peacoat]

I have never really seen the need for that button, and don't understand its purpose. I have heard various explanations, but none really made sense to me. Some coats have them and some don't.

@Carruthers, congratulations on a good find, and welcome to the Lounge.

@Sonero your avatar may be you, but it reminds me of a guy I once knew from Hibbing, MN.

 

[Sonero]

@Sonero your avatar may be you, but it reminds me of a guy I once knew from Hibbing, MN.

You met an Al Pacino look alike in Hibbing, MN ????

 

[Peacoat]

Actually, to me it looks like Bob Zimmerman (a/k/a Bob Dylan). He has done several albums in Nashville.