Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[arahat]

^ Can't agree more. The kersey vintage coats are outstanding.

I found Peacoat's advice on fitting and sizing to be extremely accurate.
On top of that, the earlier coats tend to fit trimmer and smarter than the later ones.

 

[Doctor Damage]

If you have a common size (36-40) I'd be surprised if you settle for one coat - the vintage Kerseys are habit forming.

I'm normally a 42L and I can't remember seeing that size coming up often on e-Bay. I have too many other fish to fry to buy more than one or two coats. I also want a US Army greatcoat from WW2, but like the pea coats, the available sizes seem to max out at 38 or 40. I suppose could probably squeeze into a 40. I will probably buy a new pea coat or bridge coat as a "daily driver".

Something about that kersey wool bugs me. It reminds me of another type of cloth, but I just can't put my finger on it. I suspect it might be a slightly smoother version of the cloth I have on an old greatcoat. It seems to look the same when it the nap rubs off (like on the cuffs, etc.).

Anyway, those of you who are hooked on pea coats should also pick up a Russian one. Sizing is all over the map, but they are traditionally worn ill-fitting anyway, and construction is solid. Fun coats.

 

[Peacoat]

The long sizes are relatively rare in the vintage series. If you were a standard 42, a size 40 would dive you a nice trim fit. If you are 42L, a size 40 would be too short in the body and the sleeves for you.

 

[Spoonbelly]

Doctor Damage,
I'm not sure when they started to make Long sizes in Kerseys. So far in the past 3 or 4 years that I rediscovered the Kersey coats, I've found that the earliest year has been 1969 as I have 2 46L(longs) both made in 1969. If they did make Longs before 1969, I have never seen any listed, regardless of number size. This includes ebay, Craigs List, Vintage Trends, Monster rags, etc. I'm 6'-2 1/2" and a size 46 just makes it on me for body length and sleeve length. The 46L(Longs) are even more ideal for me. Are you sure you need a Long?

 

[Doctor Damage]

The long sizes are relatively rare in the vintage series. If you were a standard 42, a size 40 would dive you a nice trim fit. If you are 42L, a size 40 would be too short in the body and the sleeves for you.

Doctor Damage,
I'm not sure when they started to make Long sizes in Kerseys. So far in the past 3 or 4 years that I rediscovered the Kersey coats, I've found that the earliest year has been 1969 as I have 2 46L(longs) both made in 1969. If they did make Longs before 1969, I have never seen any listed, regardless of number size. This includes ebay, Craigs List, Vintage Trends, Monster rags, etc. I'm 6'-2 1/2" and a size 46 just makes it on me for body length and sleeve length. The 46L(Longs) are even more ideal for me. Are you sure you need a Long?

That's a good question. My arms aren't really that long but I'd rather have longer than shorter. I will have to start paying closer attention to measurements of individual coats and I might get lucky. Of course we all have the problem of good nutrition and health care resulting in taller, larger, healthier people that don't fit into vintage clothing well!

 

[Spoonbelly]

That's a good question. My arms aren't really that long but I'd rather have longer than shorter. I will have to start paying closer attention to measurements of individual coats and I might get lucky. Of course we all have the problem of good nutrition and health care resulting in taller, larger, healthier people that don't fit into vintage clothing well!

I lost 45-50 lbs. a few years ago. Actually one of the reasons was so that the pea coats would fit me just fine. If you're 6' to 6'-2" a regular length coat would probably fit long enough for body length.

 

[arahat]

I concur with spoonbelly on the regular length if you are 6' to 6' 2".
Unless you have disproportionately long arms that is.

 

[Doctor Damage]

If you're 6' to 6'-2" a regular length coat would probably fit long enough for body length.

I concur with spoonbelly on the regular length if you are 6' to 6' 2". Unless you have disproportionately long arms that is.

I'm a shade over 6'1" when I bother to stand up straight (160 lbs), and my arms are disproportionately short for my height, so based on what you guys have said perhaps the regular length would be okay and I won't overlook regular length coats in in my search. Thanks for the comments!

 

[Spoonbelly]

My shirt size is 17-17-1/2" with a sleeve length of 36. As I said before the size 46(R) just makes it for sleeve length and body length on me . I'm 6'-2 1/2" and 190. My best guess is if you are 6' 1" and weigh 160, a size 42 should be it. I think a 40 might be a tinch too tight. If you live in Ontario, I'm sure the winters get damn cold up there and a sweatshirt or sweater, etc. is probably necessary and a 40 might be too tight for that. Size 42 in Kerseys aren't rare, but they are not too plentiful either. If you were a 40 you could have a house full of them.

 

[Peacoat]

I'm a shade over 6'1" when I bother to stand up straight (160 lbs), and my arms are disproportionately short for my height, so based on what you guys have said perhaps the regular length would be okay and I won't overlook regular length coats in in my search. Thanks for the comments!

If you don't have long arms, the real question, in deciding between a 40 and a 42, is your actual measured chest size. If it measures right at 42", then a size 42, assuming a p2p of about 22.5", will, as Spoon says, give enough room for a sweater. A size 40 (p2p of about 21.5") would give a trim fit, with no room for a sweater. I have found that the closer the peacoat fits to the body, the warmer it will be without layering.When it gets much below freezing, I need a sweater under the peacoat. Of course everyone is a little different in how they perceive cold. As my wife says, I am easily chilled. Others, not so much.

When determing your actual chest size, get an accurate measurement. See the instructions in my sticky. Also, have the seller give you an accurate measurement of the p2p. Instructions are contained in the sticky toward the end of the guide.

I have found the tag size usually closely correlates to the actual chest size (p2p) of the peacost, but not always. I learned this from fellow Lounge member Cooperson who did everythig right, but got an expensive coat (shipping across the big sea) that was at least a size too large for him. Since then I have been including the caveat about getting the p2p from the seller. Most sellers have no idea of how to accurately measure the p2p, so I recommend copying my instructions and sending it to them.

Good luck, PC.

 

[Spoonbelly]

My shirt size is 17-17-1/2" with a sleeve length of 36. As I said before the size 46(R) just makes it for sleeve length and body length on me . I'm 6'-2 1/2" and 190. My best guess is if you are 6' 1" and weigh 160, a size 42 should be it. I think a 40 might be a tinch too tight. If you live in Ontario, I'm sure the winters get damn cold up there and a sweatshirt or sweater, etc. is probably necessary and a 40 might be too tight for that. Size 42 in Kerseys aren't rare, but they are not too plentiful either. If you were a 40 you could have a house full of them.

I forgot to add that I need a long or tall in my shirt size.

 

[dgalpin]

Authentic Navy Pea Coat purchased in Washington DC in the late 60's

I have a Navy Pea Coat with the following information on the inside label:

Man's 36R
DSA 100-2739
A number is written in blue ink and I am not sure of the origin (13)
Kersey Wool
My husband had a friend whose father was in the Navy and assigned to the Pentagon in the 1960's. He purchased the Pea Coat at the PX on base.

I am going to try and sell it so I wondered if anyone has a good idea of the value (or what it will sell for on Craigslist).

Thanks!

 

[Peacoat]

Take a look at eBay and see what they are selling for. Your prospective buyers will probably want at least a pit to pit measurement, so go to my guide in a sticky toward the top of the Outerwear page. Instructions for measuring will be toward the end of the guide.

Probably best to wait until the weather starts to get cold, as no one is looking for peacoats now. Of course in your area it never much really gets cold. For the last couple of years, it hasn't been very cold up here, either.

Good luck. PC

 

[pound1369]

Mr. Peacaot,

I have another peacoat that friend gave me in Christmas. i would like for you to tell me if its real wool. I think its a new model but its heavy. i dont think that's a melton wool. I also want to know what year it was made.





This is what it says:

OVERCOAT, MAN'S, ENLISTED(100% WOOL)
Contract No: DLA100-88-C-0545
Stock No: 8405-01-154-5788
Name of Contractor: WHALING MFG> CO> INC

 

[Peacoat]

It is probably a current issue Melton wool coat from 1988. They are as heavy as the vintage Kersey wool coats because of the insulating liner that was added shortly after they first were issued. The liner makes them a very warm coat.

One way to tell is to hold the coat against a known black object while outside, but not in the direct sunlight. If the coat appears not to be black, but a very dark midnight blue, then it is pre 1980. If it appears the same color as the known black object, it is probably current issue.

 

[pound1369]

Is Whaling a good company? My friend said it was navy blue. Thank you! Mr. Peacoat.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Here's another reason why the vintage coats are attractive: look at that price jump over two years!

2011


2013

 

[Doctor Damage]

The measurements on this coat work well for me, but only if the coat doesn't have thick shoulder pads. Does anyone know if coats from this era had thick shoulder pads? I realize each manufacturer was slightly different, which complicates things, but I'm hoping someone can comment.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/32112291296...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_488wt_1141

 

[Peacoat]

Doc, the shoulder pads from that year should not be too "thick." If they are larger than what you want, it is a simple fix by a seamstress. A tailor will cost you twice what a seamstress will charge.

 

[Dinerman]