Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[Preppy Climber]

I remember when I couldn't wait for a coat to be delivered to my front door. " I am now a reformed peacoat buyer.

I hope I get to that stage much sooner than later!

 

[spoonbelly1950]

I hope I get to that stage much sooner than later!

Was kidding about the car payments and mortage money. I was lucky to be able to buy those coats and not have to worry about losing the closet or the moth balls in it. I hope your new coat turns out great. I can't wait for the taloyring

 

[spoonbelly1950]

I'm not sure but somebody on the board here mentioned 1962 as the possible first year for Long sizes as it was printed ' -62-L " on the contract number on the inside pocket of a Kersey coat.

I'm not sure but somebody on the board here mentioned 1962 as the possible first year for Long sizes as it was printed ' -62-L " on the contract number on the inside pocket of a Kersey coat.

Correction: The contract number ended in 62 . The size on the inside tag ended in L. Can we assume that S sizes (short) were also issued?

 

[Preppy Climber]

I

Was kidding about the car payments and mortage money. I was lucky to be able to buy those coats and not have to worry about losing the closet or the moth balls in it. I hope your new coat turns out great. I can't wait for the taloyring

I figured you were kidding, @spoonbelly1950! The size 32 peacoat and sailor pants (13" across the waist--both are small sizes for a man!) are en route and scheduled to arrive by Friday. I think the pants will be tight, but we'll see. Hoping the peacoat will fit great with just a t-shirt or button down underneath. I'm now like a lot of members here who have peacoats in several different sizes.

I mentioned this before, but if I want to wear a US Navy peacoat and have it fit me at least somewhat decently I have no choice but to get it tailored. My size 34 peacoat was shortened 3 inches (otherwise it would've gone down to my thighs), but I don't think it looks off balance. I'd prefer these historical pieces were left intact, but I want to proudly wear them. My tailor shortened my WWII peacoat sleeves from the shoulder area to keep the original hems and their placement.

I found this on eBay. What an awesome set! And an incredible price! If I thought the top would fit me, I would snag it! Someone will!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204504961446

 

[Preppy Climber]

Just completed reading all 145 pages of this thread. Whew! But more importantly, Wow!! What a wealth of information on all things US Navy peacoats! Many many members, including @Peacoat (!), to thank for educating me and continuing to do so. Aside from the education, it's been fun.

Two questions.

What are your thoughts on dry cleaning a US Navy peacoat? From reading this thread, some advocate dry cleaning, some don't (e.g., harsh chemicals could potentially damage the wool). I would be interested in current members' take and if they did have their peacoat dry cleaned, whether they viewed it as a positive. My WWII era peacoat is in pristine condition, no moth nibbles or holes present, no wrinkles. It came with a slightly funky odor, but airing it outside solved that issue. I'm thinking of doing a DIY steam cleaning and of course brushing the coat after each use. Because the coat is in beautiful condition as it stands, I'd rather not take it to the dry cleaners unless you think doing so is a good move.

Do some of you buy the same year/size peacoat as a back-up? I think @spoonbelly1950 does?? Others? I'm really happy with my WWII era size 34 and later this week will receive my WWII era size 32. If I like one size better than the other, is it pointless to try to find the same size, same era? I read on this thread that the later peacoats (e.g., 1960s) are a bit boxier than WWII era. Are you finding that to be the case? I'm petite so am thinking the WWII peacoats might look best on me and it might be nice to have a back-up of the size I prefer. I don't want to go too crazy on US Navy peacoats, but I feel as if I'm already going down that path.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

Just completed reading all 145 pages of this thread. Whew! But more importantly, Wow!! What a wealth of information on all things US Navy peacoats! Many many members, including @Peacoat (!), to thank for educating me and continuing to do so. Aside from the education, it's been fun.

Two questions.

What are your thoughts on dry cleaning a US Navy peacoat? From reading this thread, some advocate dry cleaning, some don't (e.g., harsh chemicals could potentially damage the wool). I would be interested in current members' take and if they did have their peacoat dry cleaned, whether they viewed it as a positive. My WWII era peacoat is in pristine condition, no moth nibbles or holes present, no wrinkles. It came with a slightly funky odor, but airing it outside solved that issue. I'm thinking of doing a DIY steam cleaning and of course brushing the coat after each use. Because the coat is in beautiful condition as it stands, I'd rather not take it to the dry cleaners unless you think doing so is a good move.

Do some of you buy the same year/size peacoat as a back-up? I think @spoonbelly1950 does?? Others? I'm really happy with my WWII era size 34 and later this week will receive my WWII era size 32. If I like one size better than the other, is it pointless to try to find the same size, same era? I read on this thread that the later peacoats (e.g., 1960s) are a bit boxier than WWII era. Are you finding that to be the case? I'm petite so am thinking the WWII peacoats might look best on me and it might be nice to have a back-up of the size I prefer. I don't want to go too crazy on US Navy peacoats, but I feel as if I'm already going down that path.

At times it is a very cold and dark path.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

Just completed reading all 145 pages of this thread. Whew! But more importantly, Wow!! What a wealth of information on all things US Navy peacoats! Many many members, including @Peacoat (!), to thank for educating me and continuing to do so. Aside from the education, it's been fun.

Two questions.

What are your thoughts on dry cleaning a US Navy peacoat? From reading this thread, some advocate dry cleaning, some don't (e.g., harsh chemicals could potentially damage the wool). I would be interested in current members' take and if they did have their peacoat dry cleaned, whether they viewed it as a positive. My WWII era peacoat is in pristine condition, no moth nibbles or holes present, no wrinkles. It came with a slightly funky odor, but airing it outside solved that issue. I'm thinking of doing a DIY steam cleaning and of course brushing the coat after each use. Because the coat is in beautiful condition as it stands, I'd rather not take it to the dry cleaners unless you think doing so is a good move.

Do some of you buy the same year/size peacoat as a back-up? I think @spoonbelly1950 does?? Others? I'm really happy with my WWII era size 34 and later this week will receive my WWII era size 32. If I like one size better than the other, is it pointless to try to find the same size, same era? I read on this thread that the later peacoats (e.g., 1960s) are a bit boxier than WWII era. Are you finding that to be the case? I'm petite so am thinking the WWII peacoats might look best on me and it might be nice to have a back-up of the size I prefer. I don't want to go too crazy on US Navy peacoats, but I feel as if I'm already going down that path.

I never went searching for specific years - only two specific sizes. Those being 46 and or 46L, and the usual Kersey wool of course.

 

[Preppy Climber]

I never went searching for specific years - only two specific sizes. Those being 46 and or 46L, and the usual Kersey wool of course.

Thank you for clarifying!

 

[spoonbelly1950]

At times it is a very cold and dark path.

I'm not sure what affect the cleaner chemicals have on 100% wool. Last year I brought all of my coats to the cleaners. That was a small project in itself. They looked very nice when they got home. The material looks brighter and cleaner. and even slightly darker. Some of the coats in Excellent condition look new.

 

[Preppy Climber]

I'm not sure what affect the cleaner chemicals have on 100% wool. Last year I brought all of my coats to the cleaners. That was a small project in itself. They looked very nice when they got home. The material looks brighter and cleaner. and even slightly darker. Some of the coats in Excellent condition look new.

Thank you! I decided to take my Schott 740N peacoat to get dry cleaned. If I like the way it turns out, I'll drop off my US Navy coat.

"I brought all of my coats to the cleaners." The dry cleaner folks must love you as a customer!

 

[spoonbelly1950]

The coats look great, but

Thank you! I decided to take my Schott 740N peacoat to get dry cleaned. If I like the way it turns out, I'll drop off my US Navy coat.

"I brought all of my coats to the cleaners." The dry cleaner folks must love you as a customer!

The coats come out great, but I won't do that too often - maybe every couple to a few years.

 

[Peacoat]

Yes, a trip to the cleaners can rejuvenate a peacoat. But if it is in pristine condition, no need to do so.

The important thing is to not eat in them. No matter how careful one might be, there is always a chance that some food particles will get on the coat. Moths are drawn to those particles.

That is a reason to have them cleaned at the end of the season.

 

[Preppy Climber]

Yes, a trip to the cleaners can rejuvenate a peacoat. But if it is in pristine condition, no need to do so.

The important thing is to not eat in them. No matter how careful one might be, there is always a chance that some food particles will get on the coat. Moths are drawn to those particles.

That is a reason to have them cleaned at the end of the season.

Thank you!

 

[spoonbelly1950]

I might have assumed that
incorrectly. The Melton coats might have been manufactured a tinch larger to acommodate that inside lining.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

op, the Navy put an insulated liner in the Melton coats as the shell wasn't thick enough to keep the wearer warm. The Kersey coats don't need a liner.

The Melton coats also have a label which is hidden inside a pocket on the right side of the coat. . It opens vertically and is under the top third button. The contract number, manufacturer, and date of manufacture are on it. My two Meltons are 2002, and 1995.

 

[spoonbelly1950]

The Melton coats also have a label which is hidden inside a pocket on the right side of the coat. . It opens vertically and is under the top third button. The contract number, manufacturer, and date of manufacture are on it. My two Meltons are 2002, and 1995.

I should say the last two digits of the year of manufacturing are included in the contract number.

 

[VansonRider]

Whelp.
I went and bought another one, too.
My big 1970 46r is awesome to layer over a bulky sweater but without a thick layer it lets a lot of wind inside. I know the wool is very wind resistant, and it’s definitely the large fit.
I was looking for a 42/44 when I came across the 46 and bought it, and I decided I still needed a proper fitting one, so I’ve been letting the saved searches continue on EBay.
Then I went back to Etsy, and low and behold I found a beautiful looking size 44!
The label matches the 1949 label pictured in the “dating peacoats” thread, so that makes it a 49,50,51 vintage, if I have my ducks in a row.
It’ll be my oldest peacoat by nearly 20 years, it has the double row of stitching a few inches up the cuffs, AND the corduroy pocket lining!
Sellers pics below, and I’ll add mine when it arrives

 

[Preppy Climber]

Whelp.
I went and bought another one, too.
My big 1970 46r is awesome to layer over a bulky sweater but without a thick layer it lets a lot of wind inside. I know the wool is very wind resistant, and it’s definitely the large fit.
I was looking for a 42/44 when I came across the 46 and bought it, and I decided I still needed a proper fitting one, so I’ve been letting the saved searches continue on EBay.
Then I went back to Etsy, and low and behold I found a beautiful looking size 44!
The label matches the 1949 label pictured in the “dating peacoats” thread, so that makes it a 49,50,51 vintage, if I have my ducks in a row.
It’ll be my oldest peacoat by nearly 20 years, it has the double row of stitching a few inches up the cuffs, AND the corduroy pocket lining!
Sellers pics below, and I’ll add mine when it arrives
View attachment 600959 View attachment 600960 View attachment 600961 View attachment 600962

Whelp.
I went and bought another one, too.
My big 1970 46r is awesome to layer over a bulky sweater but without a thick layer it lets a lot of wind inside. I know the wool is very wind resistant, and it’s definitely the large fit.
I was looking for a 42/44 when I came across the 46 and bought it, and I decided I still needed a proper fitting one, so I’ve been letting the saved searches continue on EBay.
Then I went back to Etsy, and low and behold I found a beautiful looking size 44!
The label matches the 1949 label pictured in the “dating peacoats” thread, so that makes it a 49,50,51 vintage, if I have my ducks in a row.
It’ll be my oldest peacoat by nearly 20 years, it has the double row of stitching a few inches up the cuffs, AND the corduroy pocket lining!
Sellers pics below, and I’ll add mine when it arrives
View attachment 600959 View attachment 600960 View attachment 600961 View attachment 600962

Congratulations, @VansonRider! That is a nice-looking peacoat and a great find!

You prompted me to post about my US Navy peacoat that arrived today. Will do so shortly....

 

[Preppy Climber]

I followed @Peacoat's sage advice on aiming for two different size US Navy peacoats depending on what I would be wearing underneath. I recently posted on my WWII size 34 (my first US Navy peacoat, influenced by @Peacoat!), which is sufficiently roomy to add layers. I was doubtful I would find the rare "child" size 32. eBay to the rescue, $55.32 out the door! And another WWII coat at that!

The size 32 will be perfect to wear with just a t-shirt or button down underneath. Both this and my size 34 are in amazing condition. The size 32 still has the size tag below the collar. It will be good to go following a few alterations and a pressing. Attached are some pics. I wonder whether the name on the tag is that of the sailor or added later as the Rate line is blank. Thoughts anyone?

I'm estimating this peacoat to be 1943 based on @Peacoat's guide to Dating the U.S. Navy Peacoat. I'll defer to Peacoat and others on whether I’m correct. I’m in love with all but one of the WWII peacoat characteristics, including 8 buttons showing, throat latch, corduroy pocket lining, Kersey wool. I’m not fond of the unruly lapel, but that is certainly not a deal breaker.

I'll never stop feeling immensely proud and honored to own and wear such a cool, significant part of U.S. history!

 

[Peacoat]

You are close. That coat is 1944 or 1945. Possibly late 1943.