Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[green papaya]

military issue pea coats are not as full cut as civillian coats, they are more like a uniform type fit

you should definitely go up a size if you plan to wear layers or a heavy turtle neck

 

[Peacoat]

As a point of reference, I wear a size 42 in a suit. A size 42 peacoat is a perfect fit with a little room for a heavy turtleneck, when needed.

They are fitted and should be not look boxy at all. There should be a taper from the shoulders to the waist. Very becoming on a man who is not overweight. I work out and keep in shape so that my peacoats will fit in the winter! Well, maybe there is a little bit of summertime narcissism there also.

 

[Flattery]

I ran across this site yesterday -- your veritable pick of USN peacoats, and quite affordable!

http://www.vintagetrends.com/milita...tage&CA=Men&SC=Jackets/Coats&ST=Navy+Pea+Coat

 

[Peacoat]

Great site. Thanks. Although some of the dates are off by 10 to 30 years! I saw one six button coat advertised as 30's or 40's (don't remember which) and one or two eight button coats advertised as 60's model. Other than those small errors, a good place to get a coat.

 

[Flattery]

Although some of the dates are off by 10 to 30 years! I saw one six button coat advertised as 30's or 40's (don't remember which) and one or two eight button coats advertised as 60's model. Other than those small errors, a good place to get a coat.

I noticed the discrepancies as well. Part of me was slightly irritated, but that feeling didn't last long -- it's hard to be irritated when I think of buying a peacoat in good condition for, say, $80, shipping included. ...which is what I just did. So now I've two great coats to look forward to wearing in the winter. Once I receive the one I bought from that site, I'll take a few pictures and post them here.

Cheers,
~Flattery

 

[Flattery]

After a delay due to an error on the shipping label, I received my peacoat from VintageTrends.com today.

It's perfect save for a couple of small holes in the lining -- one above the back vent, the other inside the right sleeve. Other than that, it's a beauty.

The site indicated that this is a 1951 coat. However, here's the label:


Shot at 2007-06-30


This label looks just like the 1966-68 label. It's difficult to see the contract number, but I can see that it begins with DSA. I believe it to be: DSA-2-2223. Anyone have an idea as to the date of the coat? It's definitely 1961-77. I loaded the image into Photoshop, but for all of my adjustments, I couldn't make out any more lettering.

EDIT: Okay, I'm a doofus. Going back through this thread, I've been able to identify my label as the 1966 label. If this is incorrect, please let me know. Cheers!

 

[Peacoat]

I wouldn't say you are a "Doofus," but I would say you are pretty close on the date. The tag seems to indicate a 1966 coat. Please look at the stitching about 3" above the cuff. If there is a double row of stitching, then the coat is a 1966 model. That was the last year for the double row of stitching. As you now know, the 1966 tag is unique as that was the only year that particular tag was used. Also, 1966 was the last year the double stitching was used on the sleeve.

A good find!

 

[Flattery]

Yes, there's double stitching above the cuff -- it was the first thing I noticed when I took the coat out of the box. So... 1966, confirmed. :eusa_clap

Had I never happened across this thread, I would've taken their word on the date of the coat.

Yesterday, while stitching up the lining in the left armpit area (it was coming loose), I noticed the original owner's stencil near the vent. It was rather faded, but readable with a flashlight. Later, in an effort to read under the blacked out portion of the label, I had wet it down and taken some high-res pictures to load into photoshop. After playing around with the images, I made out some initials, and the beginning of a service number, entirely different from stencil on the lining. So it seems that this coat was worn by two different sailors -- whomever's name and SN was blacked out being the original owner, I think. My guess is that the original owner gave it back to the Navy after he left the service, and it was re-issued. At least, that seems like the most likely possibility.

I'm amazed at the condition of this coat, and the color is superb. It was missing the interior button above the small inner pocket, but luckily I had a button taken from my dad's peacoat.

I also weighed this coat to see how it compared to my issue coat (manufactured in 1990). Both were comparable -- about 6 pounds. Yesterday was very windy, so I gave both coats a bit of a test. While wearing the Kersey coat, my torso felt "sealed up." In the Sterlingwear coat, I could tell that the wind penetrated it a little in some places, but not by much. Both great coats, but I'm absolutely in love with the Kersey wool.

 

[Peacoat]

I doubt that he gave it back to the Navy. Probably sold it and it was re-used by another sailor. But I could be wrong.

Thank you for the "wind" test; that confirms what I have always believed: the new coats are as warm, but not as wind or waterproof as the old ones. I had a current issue Sterlingwear, but gave it to a friend of mine before I could do extensive testing with it. Did some testing and formed the same conclusions as you did.

1966 is a good year; you got an excellent coat.

 

[Flattery]

Has anyone come across any vendors for the 1980's pewter buttons? Just curious. I haven't found any yet, myself.

 

[soulquentin]

To reopen this thread: What do you think about this coat? Looking at the label, is it likely to be a 1951 Pea Coat?
Another question: What might the seller mean by stating that the coat has tow in the pockets?
cheers, soulquentin


http://cgi.ebay.de/VINTAGE-US-NAVY-MENS-WOOL-PEACOAT-PEA-COAT-36R-EXC_W0QQitemZ140172122133QQihZ004QQcategoryZ57988QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[Speedster]

Two inside pockets...

To reopen this thread: What do you think about this coat? Looking at the label, is it likely to be a 1951 Pea Coat?
Another question: What might the seller mean by stating that the coat has tow in the pockets?
cheers, soulquentin


http://cgi.ebay.de/VINTAGE-US-NAVY-MENS-WOOL-PEACOAT-PEA-COAT-36R-EXC_W0QQitemZ140172122133QQihZ004QQcategoryZ57988QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The seller says "plus tow inside pockets". Could it be a misspelling and is should say "plus two inside pockets"?

 

[soulquentin]

The seller says "plus tow inside pockets". Could it be a misspelling and is should say "plus two inside pockets"?

Yes, that could be the most likely explanation.

 

[Peacoat]

The coat with the label showing is from the early 60's (maybe very late 50's) to no later than 1965. The tag was just a little different than the ones I have seen in the mid 60's. That's why I put it maybe a little earlier than that.

 

[soulquentin]

The coat with the label showing is from the early 60's (maybe very late 50's) to no later than 1965. The tag was just a little different than the ones I have seen in the mid 60's. That's why I put it maybe a little earlier than that.

Thank you for the information. I thought I could read "C-51" on the label...That's why I thought it dates from 1951....[huh]

 

[Peacoat]

Perhaps it reads C-61, instead or C-51? That would be consistent with the tag. The tag style in the early 50's was completely different from the "US NAVY" tag. I would expect it to read "Naval Clothing Depot" if it were from 1951. Just my best guess, based on a lot of research.

 

[Frogsmile]

1969 pattern Kersey coat

Thanks for all this info. After first seeing and admiring a USN Pea Coat in an old second hand shop in London (UK) I have always aspired to owning one. Last month I became the proud owner (via Vintage Trends) of what thanks to you I know to be a 1969 pattern Kersey coat (2 lines of stitching on cuffs) with Olive Drab (Dark Green) corduroy pocket linings. It is in very good condition and I am thrilled with it.

Robert Bennett

 

[Frogsmile]

I found this info on the web. I hope all you Pea Coat afficionados find it of interest:

Accession Number : ADA258411
Title : A Wool/Nylon Melton Material for use in Navy Peacoats.

Descriptive Note : Final rept. Oct 1979-Sep 1981,

Corporate Author : NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY NATICK MA
Personal Author(s) : Roy, Maurice W. ; Bernstein, Sumner H.
Handle / proxy Url : http://handle.dtic.mil/100.2/ADA258411 Check NTIS Availability...

Report Date : JUL 1983

Pagination or Media Count : 17

Abstract : The Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility (NCTRF) has developed and evaluated two experimental 85/15 wool/nylon, 22-ounce per linear yard, melton materials for possible replacement of the current Cloth, Melton, Wool, MIL-C-16290. One of the experimental materials was constructed identically to the standard material, while the other was constructed with a 10% reduction in warp and filling yarns. Those materials were subjected to laboratory tests of 18 material characteristics, including weight, shrinkage, break strength, acidity, colorfastness, abrasion resistance, and permeability. Test results indicated that both constructions are suitable as a replacement for the standard. As a result, the modified construction with the 10% reduction in warp and filling yarns is being recommended for adoption as a replacement for the standard 100% wool melton. Wool/Nylon melton material; Navy peacoats; Blend fabrics; Materials tests; Military clothing.

Descriptors : *CLOTHING, *TEXTILES, *WEAR RESISTANCE, *WOOLEN TEXTILES, TEST AND EVALUATION, PERMEABILITY, LABORATORY TESTS, LIFE EXPECTANCY(SERVICE LIFE), MATERIALS, NAVY, SHRINKAGE, YARNS, RESISTANCE, NYLON, RESEARCH FACILITIES, REDUCTION, FABRICS, WEIGHT, REPLACEMENT

Subject Categories : TEXTILES

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE

Robert Bennett

 

[Frogsmile]

And here is a second report to bring you up to date with the current specification. You can see from these 2 reports why the old coats feel so much more substantial.

Accession Number : ADA243702
Title : Improved Manufacturing Methods for Navy Peacoats.

Descriptive Note : Final rept. Aug 89-Sep 91,

Corporate Author : EDUCATIONAL FOUNDATION FOR THE FASHION INDUSTRIES NEW YORK
Personal Author(s) : Korngruen, Josef

Report Date : 30 SEP 1991

Pagination or Media Count : 43

Abstract : Analyses of components, patterns, and manufacturing methods of men's and women's peacoats (U.S. Navy) were conducted in order to improve procurement and utility of the garments. Recommendations are made to combine men's and women's coats in a unisex program; reduce size tariffs by 28%; improve the wear life and insulation (warmth) characteristics while reducing the average garment weight by 14%; and lower component materials cost by 12%. Revised and improved patterns were developed, and recommended manufacturing procedures employing three graduated levels of mechanization/automation are provided. Total annual savings based on historial procurement levels, are estimated to exceed $350,000.

Descriptors : AUTOMATION, CLOTHING, LOW COSTS, MANUFACTURING, MATERIALS, MECHANIZATION, METHODOLOGY, PROCUREMENT, SAVINGS.

Subject Categories : LOGISTICS, MILITARY FACILITIES AND SUPPLIES
MFG & INDUSTRIAL ENG & CONTROL OF PRODUCT SYS

Distribution Statement : APPROVED FOR PUBLIC RELEASE

Robert Bennett

 

[Peacoat]

Thanks for all this info. After first seeing and admiring a USN Pea Coat in an old second hand shop in London (UK) I have always aspired to owning one. Last month I became the proud owner (via Vintage Trends) of what thanks to you I know to be a 1969 pattern Kersey coat (2 lines of stitching on cuffs) with Olive Drab (Dark Green) corduroy pocket linings. It is in very good condition and I am thrilled with it.

Robert Bennett

Thanks for posting the background on the materials used in the peacoats; most enlightening.

I am, however, confused by the description of your coat and your conclusion that it is a 1969 coat. You indicated that there were two rows of stitching on the sleeves and corduroy lining in the pockets. To the best of my knowledge the last year for two rows of stitching on the sleeves was 1966. The last year for corduroy pockets* was 1967.

Perhaps you could post a picture of the tag, or quote it exactly as it is written. I am thinking that your coat would be no later than 1966. A picture of the tag, or a quote would give me a good idea of the year.

____

*Most of the corduroy pockets were light brown in color. One Forum member posted a picture of a black corduroy lining. This is the first I have heard of a dark green lining. Most interesting.