Questions About the United States Navy Peacoat

[PeterRocco]

What was the upgrade? I have a recent copy of Schott's 714US (the knee length peacoat), and the wool seems to have a noticeably smoother hand than my memory of a Schott 740N from college. I wasn't sure if my memory was playing tricks on me...

Like many others on FL, so many years ago I benefited from Peacoat's knowledge and scored a pristine vintage Kersey wool peacoat. It's a great peacoat, and I still wear it, but the thought of exposing the Kersey wool to possible beer and food stains was just too much (and it's the one of the few wool coats the wife likes the look and feel of!), so I got the 714US. It's a good coat! But it's not a peacoat, and my heart now yearns for something a little more hip-length, a little more... commercial, for the rare night out with the guys. I just need to explain to the wife why I need yet another wool coat jammed into the closet along with the 714US, the duffle coat, the post-WWII era UK greatcoats, and the Fidelity bridge coat...

For anybody curious, the 714US is a very respectable coat! A very close analogue of Fidelity's bridge coat, except with black instead of gold buttons, no epauletts, no half-belt, better slash pocket liners (corduroy lining instead of whatever Fidelity used that wore through quite quickly in the example I had), and two flap pockets along with two interior pockets. However, I suspect it won't be as warm as the 740N since the quilted lining is replaced by a poly-twill. Still, for a naval-inspired coat, it's a good coat. Since Fidelity is no more, the acquirer Sterlingwear seems to be in trouble if not already gone, and Cockpit USA's bridge coat has some... odd design choices, the 714US isn't a bad alternative.

I think Sterlingwear of Boston is Closed

 

[EarlGrey]

If Sterlingwear is truly gone, then that's sad news. Guess the pivot to medical gowns didn't save them; they never seemed very interested in further developing their sales direct to consumers. I had hoped to be able to gift my kids with peacoats when they came of age, guess by the time they do it'll be either Schott or lucking out with by then difficult to find vintage surplus. I do hope Schott survives at least. They might not be makers of authentic peacoats, but at least it's heads above the cheaper stuff from most other big name clothing companies.

In the meantime I'll probably try to find a surplus vintage for a grab and go peacoat.

 

[PeterRocco]

If Sterlingwear is truly gone, then that's sad news. Guess the pivot to medical gowns didn't save them; they never seemed very interested in further developing their sales direct to consumers. I had hoped to be able to gift my kids with peacoats when they came of age, guess by the time they do it'll be either Schott or lucking out with by then difficult to find vintage surplus. I do hope Schott survives at least. They might not be makers of authentic peacoats, but at least it's heads above the cheaper stuff from most other big name clothing companies.

In the meantime I'll probably try to find a surplus vintage for a grab and go peacoat.

I just gave my Son my Sterlingwear Pea Coat. I went and bought a Schott Pea Coat for myself. It has the quilted lining and heavy wool once I found out Sterlingwear went out of business. I wear a size 50 so it's very hard to find real vintage Navy Pea Coats in my Size.

 

[Kunja]

These peacoats are a classic look. Hard to go wrong.

 

[Gamma68]

Don't know if this has been posted previously but I saw Quaker Marine Supply is offering its version of a melton wool peacoat. Looks like quality. I'm curious to know if others here have tried one on?

https://quakermarine.com/products/a...M1pAzcXFAglH5mmoKoH3zdtDKY75tRSchm408=.HWrnD2

 

[Peacoat]

Don't know if this has been posted previously but I saw Quaker Marine Supply is offering its version of a melton wool peacoat. Looks like quality. I'm curious to know if others here have tried one on?

https://quakermarine.com/products/atlantis-peacoat?_kx=VfxvYVM1pAzcXFAglH5mmoKoH3zdtDKY75tRSchm408=.HWrnD2

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Two things I don't like about this coat: First of all it has a Melton shell and secondly it is a poly blend. But if those two things don't bother you, then it is probably well made. I am just too much of a fan of the 100% Kersey shell to ever consider a coat made of Melton.

 

[Gamma68]

Two things I don't like about this coat: First of all it has a Melton shell and secondly it is a poly blend. But if those two things don't bother you, then it is probably well made. I am just too much of a fan of the 100% Kersey shell to ever consider a coat made of Melton.

Ah, good point. I didn't notice it is a poly-blend.

I'll take a vintage Kersey wool coat any day of the week over a poly-blend. Better than melton wool, too.

 

[Peacoat]

Ah, good point. I didn't notice it is a poly-blend.

I'll take a vintage Kersey wool coat any day of the week over a poly-blend. Better than melton wool, too.

Yes, Kersey will work better for you up there. Put a sweater under it, and you are good for most temperatures you will see.

In NYC, I just wore a Kersey peacoat with only a long sleeve cotton shirt and a T-shirt underneath. Didn't get cold, but then we were doing a lot of walking when not in the subway or in a club/restaurant. Your temps are similar to the City.

 

[Gamma68]

Yes, Kersey will work better for you up there. Put a sweater under it, and you are good for most temperatures you will see.

In NYC, I just wore a Kersey peacoat with only a long sleeve cotton shirt and a T-shirt underneath. Didn't get cold, but then we were doing a lot of walking when not in the subway or in a club/restaurant. Your temps are similar to the City.

I already have own a 1958 USN peacoat, Kersey wool. I know just what you mean about the warmth it offers. I thought I’d post the new one for the benefit of the group. Maybe it would work well for some members.

 

[Peacoat]

I already own a 1958 USN peacoat, Kersey wool. I know just what you mean about the warmth it offers. I thought I’d post the new one for the benefit of the group. Maybe it would work well for some members.

Yes, I think it might work for some of our members. Thanks for posting.

I believe 1958 was the 2nd year for the US Navy tag. It is my favorite tag and is the longest running of all the iterations.

 

[Peacoat]

I have found peacoat buttons on ebay. These may be hard to locate as not many officers or chiefs wore peacoats. They preferred the bridgecoat.

This thread needs to be merged into the main Peacoat thread,, but I'm not able to do it. @Edward if you see this message would you please merge?

 

[Hide'n'seek]

I just picked up a Sterlingwear of Boston 100% wool Reefer peacoat for cheap. Just missing one button that looks like the attached picture. I'm doing some google searching but not coming up with a lot that matches. Any ideas on a good source for a replacement? Thanks!

We have some suitable buttons, they are not an exact match so you may wish to replace all so they match ?

 

[ZenEdge]

I own a 1969 peacoat by Dale and a 1972 peacoat by Pembroke, both in a size 38L. They look the same and their respective measurements are similar, but they fit differently. I didn't figure out why until yesterday. The button stance on the Pembroke is different from that of the Dale. The distance from the top buttonhole to the bottom hem is 23" on the Dale and 22" on the Pembroke; the distance between the buttons is 6" on the Dale, 5" on the Pembroke; and the distance from the bottom buttonhole to the bottom is 11" on the Dale and 12" on the Pembroke. The result is a little more room for the coat to open at the top and at the bottom, meaning a little more relaxed fit. I don't know if that is because they were manufactured in different years or because they were manufactured by different companies. I have two Vietnam era watch caps, manufactured in the same year, but by different companies. One has a seam, the other doesn't. This makes me think that the difference in the coats is because they were made by different manufacturers, not that the specs changed. I would be curious to hear from anyone who has two peacoats made in the same year by different companies and whether there is a difference in the button stance.

 

[Peacoat]

Or it could simply be that the buttons were moved by a previous owner to give a looser fit or more trim fit.

I just measured 4 of my peacoats, and the distance between the buttons is from 4" to a about 4.5". Three of them were at 4" and the other at about 4.5".

 

[ZenEdge]

The button stance refers to the vertical distance between the buttons, not the horizontal. The placement of the top buttonhole is higher on the Dale than on the Pembroke, and the bottom buttonhole is lower on the Dale than on the Pembroke. So, the Dale coat buttons higher in the chest area and lower at the bottom.

 

[Hobbes1]

Thanks for the replies. Not sure I want to go all different brass buttons. If I replaced them all, I'd probably go with the larger, black plastic buttons. Thanks though!
Ps sorry I didn't post in the main thread. I guess I thought it would get lost.

 

[Kfz]

Is $99 a good price for a good condition one? Thanks

 

[BobHufford]

Check this thread ...

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-dating-the-united-states-navy-peacoat.72058/

 

[ZenEdge]

1967.

 

[El Marro]

Is $99 a good price for a good condition one? Thanks

If it fits you well then yes it is, for sure.