Question for you woodworkers

[Stoney]

Wow Sneed,

It's neat that you took the same approach to making yours as I did. I see that you used a thicker plank and ended up with a taller block than I did.

Your block Looks like its is getting pretty close to being finished. You might want to dome the top a little more to make sure you have plenty of extra felt at the top of the hat to make your creases with, unless you only want this block for shallow center creases, otherwise it looks great. :eusa_clap I see you have a copy of Classic Style magazine handy.


I just stained mine with maple last night and the wood turned out darker than the putty. Although the putty wasn't very thick , there was quite a bit on the block so it is a little unsightly. This is a shot from today with three coats of spar varnish applied.

I would recommend that you go with a light stain to avoid having yours look like mine when it is finished. I know I'll use a lighter shade of stain on the next one and be sure to cut the pieces a bit larger to minimize the amount of wood putty in the block. Still I think this project has been a great deal of fun thus far.

Bolthead, I like the look of his block as well. So, when are we going to see the Bolthead block? I'm sure you can make one just for stingies...lol


Fletch,
I checked out your JW hats post again, Great job putting it together.

 

[bolthead]

Stoney.....

"Bolthead, I like the look of his block as well. So, when are we going to see the Bolthead block? I'm sure you can make one just for stingies...lol "

Hey, you never know.....you guys are inspiring enough, that's for sure. :eusa_clap

 

[Lon Goval]

WHAT WOOD??

I like what you people have done by making your own blocks and such. I need to make two blocks and one stretcher block (vise mounted). What is the wood of choice, keeping the budget in mind. Or can I get away with pine/douglas fir? I would think that the stretcher block could be the cheapest wood of the bunch since it's not going to be ironed on.

I have acquired one old block and two flanges to use as patterns to make my own, but the block is 7 5/8 and is one size too large.

Ralph

 

[fletch31]

Poplar has traditionally been used because it is hard and close grained so it doesn't imprint on the felt and absorb moisture like a sponge. Pines and evergreens are too soft in my opinion for any sustained use as you can dent them with your fingernail. Talk to the guys about where they scored their poplar planks they glued together for their blocks. It will be worth doing that way if you want to put some use on it. I hear Lamode is using basswood these days to make blocks as a professional block maker. It can be scratched and dented rather easily as well but many hatters have new blocks from him and really put them to use so it may not be as much of a concern. The grain is tight on them from what I have seen. I was told it was being used because it is easier on the cutting tools during manufacture. My 2 cents says go with poplar if you can.

 

[jkingrph]

Poplar has traditionally been used because it is hard and close grained so it doesn't imprint on the felt and absorb moisture like a sponge. Pines and evergreens are too soft in my opinion for any sustained use as you can dent them with your fingernail. Talk to the guys about where they scored their poplar planks they glued together for their blocks. It will be worth doing that way if you want to put some use on it. I hear Lamode is using basswood these days to make blocks as a professional block maker. It can be scratched and dented rather easily as well but many hatters have new blocks from him and really put them to use so it may not be as much of a concern. The grain is tight on them from what I have seen. I was told it was being used because it is easier on the cutting tools during manufacture. My 2 cents says go with poplar if you can.

Popular planks can be found at Lowe's and Home Depot. Maximum thickness I have seen is 1" (3/4 " planed final thickness), so it would take a bit of gluing to make a block. Some of the wider planks are already glued up from narrower strips. Popular is not too hard actually fairly soft, much softer and easier to work than yellow pine with the extremely hard then soft growth rings. If I were to use pine, I would look for a good clear white pine, stay away from knots because of resin. I would think resin from pine or other softwoods(evergreens) "might" be a problem in sticking to the felt or staining it.

As to terminology hardwood/softwood , hardwoods are considered to be from trees that shed their leaves each fall. Softwoods are generally from evergreens/conifers. Some hardwoods are softer than softwoods and vice versa.

 

[fletch31]

On the hardness scale, poplar is still harder than white and eastern pines and basswood but softer than yellow pine. Poplar is softer than most other hardwoods but the tight closed grain structure it provides is what is more important when it comes to blocking hats. My poplar blocks don't dent easily at all and it is tough to put a dent in them with my fingernail but can dent common pine rather easily. Could be that my blocks are made from old growth trees and the rings are more dense and closer together. They are also made from one piece blocks of wood and modern blocks today are made glued up. Either way, Poplar is what has been used historically for the last hundred and fifty years or so and my poplar blocks from the 30's are in generally good shape.

 

[carldelo]

Yes to poplar

I used poplar extensively as finish molding in my carpentry days and it is readily available at home centers. Don't be afraid to use the cheaper stuff that is glued up from multiple small pieces - the more expensive, wider boards will tend to warp much more and the block is a glued up thing anyway. The days of huge, clear, straight-grained lumber are mostly in the past...