Q's from first-timer ordering '30's-style Aero Half Belt

[Deckburner]

Hi, I am extremely impressed by the wealth of knowledge, and friendliness on these forums. I am in the market for my first high quality leather jacket, and I am blow away with the feedback on Aero's products.

I believe that I am going to order a 1930's-style Aero Half Belt. And many on the forums have advised to post to make sure that none of the details are being overlooked.

I am looking for a fall/winter(on the mild days)/spring jacket that I would typically wear over just a shirt. I live in upstate New York. When the weather turns foul, I'll probably go to another jacket. I don't want a "winter jacket", but something more versatile. I was originally attracted to the Highwayman, but after reading as much as I can on these forums, really like the Half Belt better. I have broad shoulders, that taper a bit, I believe. Therefore I thought the '30's style would look good on my frame.

Measurements
height 6'0"
weight 210 pounds
chest 45 "
waist 37" (around navel)
Jean's size: 36"
shoulder circumference: 56" (measured with arms by side, around shoulders/body)
Sleeve: 37" (from back of neck to wrist)
coat sleeve inseam: 17.5"
Shoulder-to-shoulder: 20.5"
Back-Jacket length: 24" (from base of shirt collar to just below waist line in back)

My thoughts were that the trimmer cut on the '30's half belt would look better on my frame than the boxier cut of the Highwayman, or even the '50's Half Belt as I have broad shoulders as it is. I don't ride. I'm looking for a jacket to wear casually. And I think this jacket looks outstanding:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=35127

Details of what I believe I want after reading a bit on the forums:
Heavy Horse Hide
Vintage Brown
No storm cuffs
No chest pockets (I like the clean-look without them)
cotton drill lining with an overlay of olive drab Gabardine (B10/15 cloth), solely based off of Jan Solo's experienced advice.
A 3"-leather strip on the inside-bottom of the jacket to protect the lining against wear. (called a "kidney panel" perhaps?)
Internal, verticle "gun pocket" on left breast (as I am right handed, I tend to reach with my right hand for a pocket)

Details that I am unsure of:
The button-cuffs or the "American style cuff" of the Highwayman.
Lining of the external pockets.
Zipper options.
What is "OD green contrast stitching"? I have seen this recommended, again by Jan Solo, and I curious to know what this is...and see a photo if possible.
Should I ask for a sample of the leather to be shipped to check the color? (I have seen that advice, but I'm guessing that my OCD is probably kicking in at this point)
Are the measurements I have enough for Aero to nail the fit or should I provide more details?
I have skinny arms (15" biceps), should I request a certain cut, or just provide that measurement?

That's all I can think of. Are there any details that I might be missing? Any tips? Feedback? Advice? Its all appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Papa M]

I think that you have already made fantastic research and consideration to the details that you require. You may be in grave danger of now receiving a barrage of personal opinions that will possibly introduce doubts into your judgement.

Personally I would consider going for a lighter hide. The FQHH is wonderful but you might find it too heavy and stiff for your requirement.

I have Aeros with all the different cuff configurations. The one I enjoy least is the button cuff made from FQHH. I find it too coarse around the wrist. However if you have storm-cuffs then you get a nice soft seal around the wrist.

The measurements that you have taken should certainly allow Aero to get your sizing correct.

At the end of the day - Go with your gut feeling. Don't worry about it too much. It might turn out to be perfect but it could equally be slightly different to how you envisioned it. That's the constant drawback with purchases that can't be tried on in a shop.

Good luck.

 

[JanSolo]

Hello and welcome to the forum!

cotton drill lining with an overlay of olive drab Gabardine (B10/15 cloth), solely based off of Jan Solo's experienced advice.

Why do want to order that? It's a bit like going to a restaurant and ordering steak with pork filet...
Heavy cotton drill is the default lining for many Aero jackets. It's hard wearing and very durable. Gabardine is also cotton, it's similar in thickness and durability but due to a different weave it has a very smooth surface. I can only recommend this as an alternative to cotton drill! A dual layer lining consisting of both doesn't make any sense. Probably you were referring to cotton drill with Rayon overlay?
Have you considered that the 1930s HB is longer in the front than in the back? This is something many people don't realize. I personally like it but some don't.

Pic and jacket belong to HoosierDaddy

 

[JanSolo]

Here's a pic of eClairvauxs superb seal Cheyenne with OD green contrast stitching. The throatch latch is were it is most prominent.

 

[eClairvaux]

here is a slightly better version of that photo (focus):

that leather is of course not brown FQHH but seal "jerky" A-2 mid-weight horsehide and the green is a stronger contrast. My brown FQHH Highwayman has matching brown stitching and that's fine too.

 

[Edward]

I highly recommend emailling Amanda at Aero, I've not purchased just yet, but she has been extremely helpful regarding various details and customisation information. FWIW, it ounds to me like you're looking for a jacket for those 'cool enough for something more 'outerwear' than a blazer, Not cold enough for an overcoat on top of a blazer' type days. For that, Amanda advised m to go for one of their wool linings.

Regarding internal pocket, you can either have one in the lining, or one through the leather at the front of the jacket - as found on a G1. I'm considering the latter so that whatever I put in there 'hangs' its weight on the lether only and not ultimately the lining.

 

[andy richards]

An excellent choice of both brand and style!
Maybe you would consider a piece of leather on the inside of the lower back, let say a couple of inches. I am sure this will prevent wear on the lower inside. I have this on my highwayman and I like it very much.
Cheers,
Andy

 

[Deckburner]

I definitely misread Jan Solo's posts on the lining! My apologies, Sir.

Without having even seen one of these jackets in person, I was thinking that there would be some sort of material between the leather and the gabardine...not much, but a slight insulation for cool fall/spring days in New York. I'll email Amanda and ask her advice.

Thanks so much for the feedback thus far.

 

[tonypaj]

Any tips? Feedback? Advice? Its all appreciated. Thank you.

The best tip you have received was in the very first answer. Make sure you like the FQHH, Aero jackets are heavy and stiff. The only problem is if you have never worn one, it is impossible to tell. Hmmm, I guess that did not help much...

 

[Interbak]

Hi SC,

I have the regular HB in antique brown FQHH. It is a beautiful leather but IT IS very heavy and stiff. These things do literally stand up by themselves, especially when new. This hide gains character very quickly with all sorts of grain and contrasting shades of color coming out. I kept the typical HB cuffs, but deleted the storm cuffs. Lining is cotton drill instead of the standard Alpaca wool. I did this thinking that the jacket would be too warm with the storm knits and wool lining, but in hind site I don't think it would be a problem. Even with the very heavy leather it isn't a particularly warm jacket without the wool. I would stay away from the OD stitching on a dark brown jacket. This was a common thing on some WWII A-2 jackets, but I never much cared for it. If you like heavy leather jackets you'll love Aero's FQHH, if you're a fashion lamb leather person it might not be for you. You can call Aero directly or deal with Mark at Aero USA, here's the link to his Ebay store http://stores.ebay.com/Aero-Leather-USA.

Brian

 

[Deckburner]

Throat closure

Thanks again for the great feedback. Amanda is sending me samples to check against the browns that they currently have.

Gabardine lining it is. Amanda says that they can't put anything in under that with the form fitting style of the cut.
Highwayman cuffs.
No storm cuffs.


Am I mistaken or did I read somewhere that there is a standard throat collar closure of some sort on this jacket?

And I cannot find anywhere, the options to line the pockets. Any help here is greatly appreciated!

 

[Edward]

I don't know about the throat latch.... the (very similar) Cossack does have one, but I've never seen one in the photos of the halfbelt. Worth mentioning to Amanda just in case - I know from having discussed a Bootlegger with her that the throat latch is one of those details they will happily add for no extra charge. (Actually, I was very pleasantly surprised by just how many little extras they will put in there for no further charge).