Proper shirt collars

[Kostya]

I am looking to translate pictures of some proper shirt collars (meaning the long, drapy, narrow, pointy ones from the 1920s/30s) into dimensions that a tailor can understand. I've found a great site that offers custom tailoring:

http://www.mytailor.com/Shirts.aspx

I am considering the "0" collar: European Narrow Straight

The collar looks pretty close to what I want, however, it doesn't seem quite narrow enough. They do give you an option to adjust the height in the back and the length of the points. However, I'm not sure what it would end up looking like if I adjust it.

Any ideas?

By the way, they offer a HUGE number of fabrics--about 14 pages of classic stripes. I've yet to find another website like this.

Pics and dimensions and comments welcome.

Kostya

 

[Kostya]

Senator Jack in the house?

I was just did a search on shirt collars here and it looks like Senator Jack did order some shirts from www.mytailor.com. I'd be curious to know which collar you choose, fabric, etc., and what your shirts look like.

I'm holding off my order until I can get some answers here. Most importantly, I need to know the correct length of the points and the height in the back. The European Narrow Straight collar is 1.75" in the back (too high?) and 3" long on the points. I'm thinking maybe 1.5" in the back and 3.25" points?

Thanks,
Kostya

 

[Mike1973]

Kostya,

I have a bundle of my grandfathers detachable collars at home, all from before he was called up in '39. He was a very dapper young chap back then, and I know one of the collars was really thin and pointy, I'll try and remember to dig them out of the loft tonight and photograph them for you. Also I may have a picture of him wearing them! (The Old Fella is my avatar at the mo...)

 

[Senator Jack]

Hello, Kostya. Welcome to the Lounge.

To my thinking, the European points are the closest you're going to get to the 30s tapers. And it's not that close. They're just longer and narrower than the regular collars and don't really curve in like I see on 30s shirts. Perhaps the model 9n - Narrow Contour would be a bit closer to the 30s style? We need the shirt experts to chime in here. BTW, my backs are at the regular 1.75" width, though I suppose a narrower back may give the whole thing a 30s look.

I only buy solid colors, so if you're thinking stripes, it's possible that the design will make it look 30s. At any rate, I'd suggest buying only one shirt, and then if you like it you can order more. Their turnaround time is just about five weeks.

I have three shirts from them now, and another two are on the way. I like the non-textured look of broadcloth, so I selected from the Two-Ply section - $69. Though one I did order is from the Sea Island collection because I went to get fit for a suit and I happened to like the color of the swatch. That one should be coming in soon.

The big question, though, is, will they hold up? As I wrote in other threads, the Brooks Bros. shirts don't hold up - after a year of minimal use, the collars are frayed. I've since stopped sending my dress shirts to the drycleaners, though, after investing in a Steamfast presser. I'd suggest you also avoid the drycleaner. They do not take care when pressing the shirts and when they press the bare metal plate to the shirt a noticeable sheen is left on the shirt.

Final note. Unless you want a blousy shirt like the kind you get off the rack (low armholes) be sure to tell them you want exact measurements. What they do is figure most men don't want to admit being fatter than they are, so they'll add an inch or two around the middle. I like an athletically cut shirt, (though I'm not athletic), and my first shirt came in with too much material around the waist. You should also be aware that if you take the measurements from your best fitting shirt - as I did - they're going to cut it to those measurements and then it's going to shrink. You would think they would take this into account when making the shirt, but it seems they don't. After two orders, I'm still tweaking the size/length of neck, arms, etc.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Joel Tunnah]

...I've since stopped sending my dress shirts to the drycleaners...

Me too. I'd estimate that it cuts the useful lifespan of a shirt by half, or more.
I just threw out four Charles Tyrwhitt shirts that they had shrunk and broke all the buttons off of.

Joel

 

[Cobden]

There is a British company that makes 1930's style shirts, but not the correct style of detachable collars (I think). Bit pricey at 68 pounds stirling, but rather good.

http://www.wildlife-pictures-online.com/leopard-pictures-1.html and click on "shirts" then scroll down to 1920's Spearpoint collar attached shirts

 

[Mojave Jack]

Ummm. Cobden, are you sure you pasted the right link?

 

[Cobden]

You never know when a leopard will come in handy! :whistling

Seriously, woops! :eusa_doh:

This is what I meant: http://www.vintageshirt.co.uk/

Forget about the leopard...

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Thanks for posting that site. They have some great shirts. I may have to get one of those 1920s shirts.

 

[Mojave Jack]

You never know when a leopard will come in handy! :whistling

Seriously, woops! :eusa_doh:

This is what I meant: http://www.vintageshirt.co.uk/

Forget about the leopard...

Clearly you're a man of diverse interests, Cobden. That's an interesting insight into another facet of your personality. I actually browsed around that site a little, just for fun!

Thanks for the corrected URL, too. Great site! I like the selection of half-front shirts.

 

[Kostya]

Thanks, guys, for responding.

Senator Jack, Which collar style did you choose for your shirts from mytailor.com?

What I'd really like to see are some measurements of the collars off some period shirts if anyone's got some. This would help tremendously.

Kostya

 

[The real Henry]

I don't really know, but do you mean these collars?

http://www.zootsuitstore.com/Shopping/Catalog/product_detail.asp?ProductCode=DS1760A

 

[Tony in Tarzana]

Should we start a "Show Us Your Leopards" thread? Great pictures! Thanks, Cobden, even if it was a goof-up.

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

nice one:



The stated plice corresponds to about $165.

 

[Mojave Jack]

nice one:



The stated plice corresponds to about $165.

lol lol That's a bit plicey! I always thought that was just a speech inflection!

 

[Kostya]

Nice website and concept, but it seems a little sparse on information and options. No contact e-mail.

I really need to find out how long the points on the collar should be. 3"? 3 1/2"?

Kostya

 

[Mike1973]

Just been up in the loft and dug these out...

from left to right,
CC41 Newtex 1 1/2 inch high at back, 3 inch point at front. (I'm guessing this one is just post-war, maybe demob.)

The "Old England" Regd. SHAPE LS. Pre-war. 1 1/2 inch at back, 4 inch point at front.

Climax Wonder No84. Pre-war. 1 3/8 inch at back, 3 1/8 inch point at front.


And a couple of close-ups of the middle one...

These all belonged to my grandfather. I've got a few photo's of him from then but this is the only one that shows one of the collars well, and not well I'm afraid, a copy of a copy...

I'm guessing about 1936?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Great collars! Here are some more, from past posts:

 

[Mojave Jack]

Great pics, Mike. That second one really shows the curve that Senator Jack was talking about. Those are very helpful reference photos.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Here's one i measured up for someone a while ago. From a size 14.5 Arrow (collar-attached) shirt from the 30s ... Sorry it's quite a rough drawing. Two van Heusen collars from the early 50s, and a Pogues collar from the late 30s also conform to this general template (they are all size 14.5, except the Pogues which is size 14).

bk