Project: 5-Star Buco J-82

[Technonut]

After seeing the fantastic job that 5-Star Leather completed by patterning from an original Buco J-82 sent in by forum member Mysteryo, I decided to have one made for myself....

Remake of a Buco J-71 by FiveStars Leathers

I'm a Buco lover and the lucky owner of a few original pieces . The One that started my love for the brand was unfortunately missing in my collection: the Buco J-71. I've always been looking for the opportunity to find one on the internet with no success.... very sad. Japanese repros exist but...

www.thefedoralounge.com

I'm going for more or less the original J-82, with concessions made for the decorative Buco studs and belt buckle, since those were supplied to 5-Star by Mysteryo. Here's the original Buco sent-in to 5-Star and directly patterned from:

I was originally offered a couple of choices for the lining and decided upon a red cotton twill, until I looked though all of them available and saw a nice red tartan more appropriate for this jacket IMO. Here's my chosen lining:

As for the jacket labels, I think that these will do quite nicely for this jacket / lining (it will also be tagged a size 44):

I also noticed that the D-pocket on other 5-Star Buco J-24 copies had the zipper running from top to bottom for opening, instead of from the bottom up as on originals. This J-82 will be made with the correct zipper direction like this:...

Here are the final details submitted to and confirmed by 5-Star:



Buco J-82 Repro

Use original Buco pattern in my measurements.
At least 1.4mm black steer hide most closely
matching original Buco as possible.

KEEP original J-82 D-pocket (D-Pocket Zipper Zips UP to open from the bottom, not from the top down (see pic)

NO snaps for fur collar installed on collar.

NO rivets

Thickest, durable pocket linings (canvas?) for all pockets

Lining: Tartan # 20 (Both body and sleeves)

Nickle Antique Talon zippers

Use appropriate style silver metal motorcycle jacket belt
buckle from your stock, and install snap on belt to make buckle
removable.

Your Speed King and Steer Hide labels on jacket (See Pics)

Tagged Size: 44


Correct Measurements:


Pit-Pit: 23.5 "

Shoulders: 19 "

Sleeves: 25.5 "(correct)

Hem: 21.5 "

Back Length: 24 "


I received an email from Fargham this morning showing the completed patterns, and now the project is moving on to the cutting room... From what I can tell, the patterns look correct in my sizing compared to the ones taken directly from the original size 46 J-82:

Fingers crossed that this project turns out as well as Mysteryo's jacket...

I'll keep this thread updated as the project progresses.

 

[photo2u]

Nice patterns. I think the D pocket looks a little off. Also, I think the fore arms should taper a little more. Just my view.

 

[photo2u]

I was thinking of having one made with all my NOS hardware minus the buckle. Still looking for the correct buckle. Does anyone have a source of the original maker? Snaps, spots and zippers are all been source from original makers. If you have a buckle with the belt end metal cap, let me know.

 

[Technonut]

Nice patterns. I think the D pocket looks a little off. Also, I think the fore arms should taper a little more. Just my view.

Noted, and your suggestions forwarded to Fargham.... Since they were working from the original jacket, I asked for him to use his discretion, but I would like for him to maintain the taper of the original, and to close well around the wrists when zipped, but not excessively tight... Hopefully, they didn't get to cutting just yet, and can make adjustments if necessary...

 

[Aloysius]

Nice patterns. I think the D pocket looks a little off. Also, I think the fore arms should taper a little more. Just my view.

I wonder if they measured and traced the D-pocket on Mysteryo's jacket when he sent it in (before substituting it for the requested handwarmer).

I am interested in pursuing this but if I were to I would request the copy pattern without any adjustments for my size.

 

[Technonut]

Nice patterns. I think the D pocket looks a little off. Also, I think the fore arms should taper a little more. Just my view.

I appreciate your suggestions and sharp eye for detail...

Fargham is in agreement with you regarding the D-pocket, and adjusted the pattern:

As for the forearm taper, he thinks it would be better to stick with the original pattern than make any changes....

please take a look in the attachment on this image the orientation of inside cuff and sitting on the original jacket,
i think for the sleeves its better to stays from the original pattern, like below image

 

[Marc mndt]

I think the D pocket looks a little off.

Original Buco's show a lot of variation.

The orientation of the D pocket on the j-81 in the upper left corner is quite close to the 5* whereas the D pocket on the j-82 is oriented more vertical.

Two horsehide j-24s. The one on the left is a size 46, the one on the right is a size 42. You'd expect the D pocket on the 46 to be bigger right? The exact opposite is the case.

Also note the position of the coin pocket and the position of the snaps. It looks like everything was positioned freehand.

 

[Technonut]

Original Buco's show a lot of variation.

The orientation of the D pocket on the j-81 in the upper left corner is quite close to the 5* whereas the D pocket on the j-82 is oriented more vertical.

View attachment 635084

Two horsehide j-24s. The one on the left is a size 46, the one on the right is a size 42. You'd expect the D pocket on the 46 to be bigger right? The exact opposite is the case.

Also note the position of the coin pocket and the position of the snaps. It looks like everything was positioned freehand.

View attachment 635085 View attachment 635086 View attachment 635087

Thanks for the info.... I wasn't even aware there was a J-81 made... I forwarded the pics to Fargham to correct the placement.

The jacket will be moving on to cutting and production after this... I personally would have been satisfied with the J-81 placement since I didn't know any better, and it looked proper to me, but it's a good thing to be corrected now..

 

[Marc mndt]

I personally would have been satisfied with the J-81 placement since I didn't know any better, and it looked proper to me, but it's a good thing to be corrected now..

You can't go wrong either way

 

[Technonut]

You can't go wrong either way

I realize that by looking at pics of Mysteryo's original J-82 again.... it's about dead-on to 5-Star's placement from what I see..

I just emailed Fargham again, and asked him to move the pocket a bit if he wants to, or just leave it alone if not..... I must say that the man has been very professional and accommodating to my requests, especially for the cost of admission....

Time to get this jacket to cutting and production!

 

[photo2u]

Original Buco's show a lot of variation.

The orientation of the D pocket on the j-81 in the upper left corner is quite close to the 5* whereas the D pocket on the j-82 is oriented more vertical.

View attachment 635084

Two horsehide j-24s. The one on the left is a size 46, the one on the right is a size 42. You'd expect the D pocket on the 46 to be bigger right? The exact opposite is the case.

Also note the position of the coin pocket and the position of the snaps. It looks like everything was positioned freehand.

View attachment 635085 View attachment 635086 View attachment 635087

I see what you're getting. I can pass the orientation of the orientation of the zipper in contrast to the rig pocket and main zippers. The second dated 8/24 d pocket is an improvement over the first version. Personally, what I do when I want to duplicate an original, I trace the part. Then I can duplicate and make small adjustments to get a strong representation of the original. In my view, the second d pocket created is an improvement but still a little off.

 

[Aloysius]

Thanks for the info.... I wasn't even aware there was a J-81 made... I forwarded the pics to Fargham to correct the placement.

The jacket will be moving on to cutting and production after this... I personally would have been satisfied with the J-81 placement since I didn't know any better, and it looked proper to me, but it's a good thing to be corrected now..

I think Marc's point is that the placement within models varied so none of them is wrong.

@Marc mndt the inconsistency that actually jumped at me most was the pocket flap shape–completely different! But of course part of the charm.

 

[KBlake]

I appreciate your suggestions and sharp eye for detail...

Fargham is in agreement with you regarding the D-pocket, and adjusted the pattern:

View attachment 635075


As for the forearm taper, he thinks it would be better to stick with the original pattern than make any changes....



View attachment 635074

did you send him rivets?

 

[Technonut]

did you send him rivets?

No, no rivets/ decorative studs sent.... TBH, I prefer it that way... At this price-point for a made-to-measure leather jacket, I'll be quite happy with a nostalgic representation of the Buco J-82 based closely upon patterns obtained from an original..

 

[photo2u]

Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

 

[cbez]

maybe just my taste but I also thought the forearms and cuffs looked pretty baggy.

I checked again and it looks like he wears them unzipped so that would explain why the original jackets look more tapered

 

[Technonut]

I'll be quite happy with a nostalgic representation of the Buco J-82 based closely upon patterns obtained from an original

For clarity, my primary interest in obtaining this J-82 build from 5-Star (beside being based upon original patterns and price-point) was the ability to have it made-to-measure, especially the back length.

I currently have a Chinese-made J-24 copy that I've been very pleased with regarding materials, construction, and fit. Chest, shoulders, and sleeve length are damn-near perfect for me. However, like most any modern off-the-rack motorcycle jackets available in my size (44 R), the back lengths start at 25". Many are even longer, which would damn near cover half of my ass while worn....

The 25" back length is acceptable and practical to me especially while sitting and bending-over, and looks perfectly fine for the times out-n-about. However, I would like to have at least one MC jacket with the more vintage-styled 24" length, despite the fact that it will ride-up over my belt line while sitting / bending...

I'm in my 60's now, and find myself on a limited income compared to earlier years where I was in the position to afford new, custom jackets from the more prestigious jacketmeisters out there. I'm grateful there are makers like 5-Star where I can choose my measurements, lining, hardware, etc. from their available stock, and receive a brand new, relatively decent leather jacket which fits exactly as I want it to at a price I can afford....

 

[Bfd70]

Marc’s comparison pic is an awesome example why searching for “perfection” in a repro is not only the thief of joy but a fools errand.

 

[Technonut]

Received a couple of progress pics today.... The overall pattern looks well done from what I see, and I'm VERY pleased with the steer chosen for the jacket.

The D-pocket may still be a bit off, but should look fine when the jacket is worn, especially after broken in. I attempted to make it clear that the side pocket zipper is oriented the same as the D-pocket, but was installed in the opposite direction.

I was asked about it however, and requested it corrected. I've seen 5-Star make such changes while keeping the stitching neat before, so hopefully this one won't be an exception:

 

[Technonut]

Well, looks like this one is close to being a wrap....

I haven't received a pic of the buckle they're going to use yet, but it will be along shortly.

All-in-all, pretty damn sweet for a sub-$300.00 custom leather jacket IMO.. Here's some pics to do the talking :