Pre- 1940s Stetson dress hats.

[splintercellsz]

Yes sir!

 

[Joshbru3]

I will be posting some updated pictures of this one in the next day or two. Its an incredible hat with a gorgeous longhair finish once it was brushed. It has the flattest flange I have ever seen on a dress hat. Even after the steam reactivated the shellac, the flange stayed flat. Unfortunately, the sweatband is very dry. Its cracking and has a couple tears from the former owner, but its still in the hat. The felt is gorgeous.

 

[splintercellsz]

I can't wait to see it with better photos that do it justice. Don what I can see it is a beauty

 

[Joshbru3]

I can't wait to see it with better photos that do it justice. Don what I can see it is a beauty

The crown appeared low in the auction photos, but is actually a full 5 3/4. It also has a very rare early Stetson reorder label that I have only seen once before. The other is in a Derby that I own. I believe both hats are early 1900's.

 

[splintercellsz]

Woot! Now that sounds even better.

 

[alanfgag]

Stetson Excellent Quality - The Avenue

This hat has been posted by its two previous owners - I add a fews more photos here. The felt is heavy and dense. It has a particularly nice ribbon/bow treatment.

 

[Landman]

Alan, beautiful hat. What is the purpose of the second row of stitching below the overwelt? In the pictures it looks like the stitching does not go through the bottom of the brim. Is that what is holding the overwelt down?

PS: Oops, after posting this I ran into the other thread where you were discussing the stitching. Sorry for the redundant question.

 

[Joshbru3]

Alan, I just remembered I had pictures of this late 20's Stetson store stand-up sign. The crown dimensions, brim dimensions, bow design, stationary wind trolley button, and overwelt with hidden stitch remind me of your Gold Medal. If I didn't know any better, I would say this ad was for your hat.

 

[Joshbru3]

bump :bump::bump:

 

[alanfgag]

Wow... I missed your post, Josh... it certainly looks like the same hat! Thanks for sharing this.

 

[hatophile]

Late 20s? Very nice!

 

[alanfgag]

Stetson Real Nutria Fur derby

I've taken quite a few photos of this Stetson ventilated derby in nutria fur felt. It is taller than average - blocked at 5 3/4" the crown stands 5 1/2" above the brim, which is 2 3/16" front and back. The felt thickness appears to taper as it reaches the crown - very thin, almost like heavy parchment on the top at the ventilation holes. The 2 1/4" rolled sweatband is attached via a fabric "reed" and is very soft and flexible. The laced perforations at the rear are finer than one would see in later iterations of this design feature. The hat overall is in excellent condition. Age is a question. If the LOT number is 3XXX it would suggest 1920s. If it is 8XXX, it is like from an earlier sequence of numbers, similar to the 1900 Exposition hat posted by RLK in the Sweatband LOTXXXX thread. The stylish raked bow is seen in the plates Josh posted from 1914, but the crown is higher and ale quite rounded. I've included some comparison photos with a LOT3XXX Flexible Conforming with the same bow style and similar form. Maurice L. Rothschild began in Minneapolis. Their large Chicago store opened for business in 1907. Note the comparison between Real Nutria Felt logos... the later logo with more artful (and beaverish) rendition of the nutria is from a late 1920s-1930 western hat.

 

[alanfgag]

 

[splintercellsz]

Just perfect, Alan. That is one of my favorites

 

[buler]

Thanks for the great pictorial!

B

 

[Joshbru3]

Absolutely STUNNING, Alan!!

I believe that this derby fits into the 1914-1918 time period. The high crowned and "wider" brimmed derbies were popular in the late 1890's/early 1900's and then again in the 1914-1918 period. Because of the stylish rakish bow, tall round crown, and the IIIIIIIIIII stitching on the sweatband, it would tell me that the hat leans more towards the late teens or early 20's than the early 1900's. Just my opinion though. I have a couple early Stetson derbies (1890 and about 1900) and the reorder tags are different than yours.

 

[alanfgag]

Happy to over-document!

Josh, thanks - I think your opinion is on the mark. It seems to have much in common with Stetson manufacture from that era.

 

[hatsRme]

Tip-top pictorial, Alan! Delightful Derbies, both! The one in the photo does seem to be a perfect fit from the visual, but aren't you normally a couple of sizes down (7-ish)?

 

[alanfgag]

Yes... 22 1/8. I can wear this with an ample application of felt behind the sweatband. I bought it more to document than to wear.

 

[alanfgag]

Josh, I've found this derby posted in 2008 a puzzler... it appears later than the 1902 postmark would suggest. Sure wish I could see the sweatband LOTXXXX stamp on that one. Perhaps it was mailed again later on, or perhaps some of these tags and materials were used earlier. Dunno.

I also wish I could find more reference to Maurice L. Rothschild marks and logos.