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Messages
19,465
Location
Funkytown, USA
From one of Max's posts (9/21/2018): "Ignacio put some drops of ammonia in a bit of water, and then rubbed the binding with it. Then he took the ribbon off, and washed it in the ammonia water. He says if the solution is too strong, the ribbon will be "burned". He says 10 drops of ammonia per 1/4 liter of water is good. All the stains, including the sweat stains in the ribbon, disappeared.
He also told me he doesn't stitch the ribbon to the front part of the hat, because that will let the sweat of the forehead go through the felt and stain the ribbon."
Now that I read that, I remember him posting it. Thanks tons for digging it up!

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Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,935
Location
Central Texas
That is a pretty one, Max!

My new Mallory Coast to Coast, before and after Ignacio got rid of the "stitch marks" the seller sent it with. There were several bumps all around the crown.


He also conformed it to my head and washed the liner. This hat is new!
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Wyldkarma

One Too Many
Messages
1,805
Location
Austin, TX
This hat isn't exactly new (well, the crease is). Had it for quite some time and posted it way back when I didn't have my usual set-up yet. This hat has me stumped really. I'll explain later why.
Stetson Imperial with mode edge. Size 7, with the brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Gorgeous hat and one of the nicest Stetsons I have (and I have a few good ones).

Why does it have me stumped? Well, it's supposed to be a size 7 and should fit me perfectly therefore. But it doesn't and it is probably a size 7 1/8. Which would be posisble if the hat was made under license in England and it's an English size 7. But the sweatband doesn't say so. So it's either an American made hat that is just mislabelled, or it's an English licensed hat that doesn't have the usual sweatband. The label underneath the sweatband isn't helpful. Very frustrating to have a hat this nice and not being able to wear it (I sympathize with the larger sized members who have this all the time). Any thoughts?

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Possible someone tweaked it on a stretcher at some point in time?
 
Messages
18,588
Location
Nederland
The production of new European hats can be counted on the fingers of one hand. Needless to dwell on the reasons for this skimpy choice. Last year I gave credit to my intuition by buying three Tonak hats from the current production. I was largely satisfied, knowing beforehand I would have dealt with preformed hats.
View attachment 187066
This year I repeated the experience with two others, giving preference to the "suede" finish of which in Central Europe they have "exclusive" in terms of high quality
View attachment 187067
Tonak in dark brown, size 58 that fits perfectly. They are generous in proportions in the Czech Republic.
Ribbon and trim of the brim are of the same color of felt
View attachment 187068
Tonak felt is special for the current standards: medium or thick, they have a very interesting feel, very different from modern Italian hats, certainly lighter. The colors are very interesting as well as the surfaces, completely different, even when they are defined "suede"
The dimensions of this are: trimmed brim at 7 cm., creased crown at 11 cm. and ribbon at 3 cm.
View attachment 187069
Very interesting, in this I agree with Steve, the bill and the positioning of the tape and the bow.
The finishes are of medium quality
View attachment 187070
The only flaw are the shapes that are very similar to one another, but an hatter could supply "new" interpretations.
In USA you have Selentino brand that is the same producer, even if the variety are slightly different
I like the sleek look of it, Daniele.
 
Messages
18,588
Location
Nederland
Possible someone tweaked it on a stretcher at some point in time?
Doesn't look like it, Ken. Appears almost NOS. I suspect this may be a Canadian made Stetson, aimed at the English market. That would be odd though, because at the time there was still a license for Stetson in place, held by Failsworth. The explanation could be much more mundane however, like just a wrong size label.
 
Messages
18,588
Location
Nederland

Tukwila

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,382
Location
SW of Antifa Central (PDX)

Woodtroll

One Too Many
Messages
1,268
Location
Mtns. of SW Virginia
Sweet! One of Michael's favorite designs for me. LOVE it!

Thank you, sir, the hats you and Bill Hughes own with this color combination inspired me to ask Michael to do one for me, too (although I went with a matching rather than contrasting brim ribbon). It just took him a while to find a body that would work for my size.

Thanks to you and Bill for "enabling" this hat! ;)
 

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
First of all thank you Stefan and then thanks again for introducing me to the qualities of Fleur of Penumbra Hats. The desire to see something new in my collection came back to me and she gave me the opportunity to transform old and new felts into hats. I often follow her advice and our discussions via email are minimal, but the results give me great satisfaction
The flower in the shadows.

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Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
This hat isn't exactly new (well, the crease is). Had it for quite some time and posted it way back when I didn't have my usual set-up yet. This hat has me stumped really. I'll explain later why.
Stetson Imperial with mode edge. Size 7, with the brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Gorgeous hat and one of the nicest Stetsons I have (and I have a few good ones).

Why does it have me stumped? Well, it's supposed to be a size 7 and should fit me perfectly therefore. But it doesn't and it is probably a size 7 1/8. Which would be posisble if the hat was made under license in England and it's an English size 7. But the sweatband doesn't say so. So it's either an American made hat that is just mislabelled, or it's an English licensed hat that doesn't have the usual sweatband. The label underneath the sweatband isn't helpful. Very frustrating to have a hat this nice and not being able to wear it (I sympathize with the larger sized members who have this all the time). Any thoughts?

View attachment 186614 View attachment 186615 View attachment 186616 View attachment 186617 View attachment 186618 View attachment 186619 View attachment 186620 View attachment 186621 View attachment 186622 View attachment 186623
It is a stellar hat, Stefan. Maybe a little corrugated felt behind the sweat band is in order?

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Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
My second Knox One Hundred. The felt is wonderful.
The stains on the brim came out just from brushing.
Some heretic cut out a piece of the sweatband, but I am going to try to put in a leather transplant when I get home.

I will also do a side-by-side comparison with my other Knox 100.
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Oh yeah! That's a beauty, Doc.

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