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Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,874
Location
Central Texas
Wow, both excellent hats today!

No luck again on my hat-hunt yesterday: nothing new has arrived in the vintage shops yet (and I'm beginning to feel jittery). So I decided to bring this one back home with me, because it has some redeeming qualities, even though it's another black homburg (sort of).
Peschel, let's say homburg for beginners in black. Size 58 (or 7 1/4 American), brim at 5,7cm and crown 10,5cm at the center dent. What are those redeeming qualities, you ask. Well, it's a Peschel and they knew how to do a finish on a hat like nobody's business. The hand of this felt is just fabulous. And the hat has a nice shape and sits on that fine line somewhere between a fedora with a rolled brim and a homburg. All in all cool enough to bring it along. Liner is still stitched in, so I'm guessing late fifties, early sixties maybe.

peschel-homburg58_01-jpg.186601
peschel-homburg58_02-jpg.186602
peschel-homburg58_03-jpg.186603
peschel-homburg58_04-jpg.186604
peschel-homburg58_06-jpg.186605
peschel-homburg58_08-jpg.186606
peschel-homburg58_09-jpg.186607
peschel-homburg58_10-jpg.186608
peschel-homburg58_11-jpg.186609
peschel-homburg58_12-jpg.186610

This hat isn't exactly new (well, the crease is). Had it for quite some time and posted it way back when I didn't have my usual set-up yet. This hat has me stumped really. I'll explain later why.
Stetson Imperial with mode edge. Size 7, with the brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Gorgeous hat and one of the nicest Stetsons I have (and I have a few good ones).

Why does it have me stumped? Well, it's supposed to be a size 7 and should fit me perfectly therefore. But it doesn't and it is probably a size 7 1/8. Which would be posisble if the hat was made under license in England and it's an English size 7. But the sweatband doesn't say so. So it's either an American made hat that is just mislabelled, or it's an English licensed hat that doesn't have the usual sweatband. The label underneath the sweatband isn't helpful. Very frustrating to have a hat this nice and not being able to wear it (I sympathize with the larger sized members who have this all the time). Any thoughts?

View attachment 186614 View attachment 186615 View attachment 186616 View attachment 186617 View attachment 186618 View attachment 186619 View attachment 186620 View attachment 186621 View attachment 186622 View attachment 186623
 

Steinbockhase

Practically Family
Messages
514
Location
Munich, Bavaria, Germany
This hat isn't exactly new (well, the crease is). Had it for quite some time and posted it way back when I didn't have my usual set-up yet. This hat has me stumped really. I'll explain later why.
Stetson Imperial with mode edge. Size 7, with the brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Gorgeous hat and one of the nicest Stetsons I have (and I have a few good ones).

Why does it have me stumped? Well, it's supposed to be a size 7 and should fit me perfectly therefore. But it doesn't and it is probably a size 7 1/8. Which would be posisble if the hat was made under license in England and it's an English size 7. But the sweatband doesn't say so. So it's either an American made hat that is just mislabelled, or it's an English licensed hat that doesn't have the usual sweatband. The label underneath the sweatband isn't helpful. Very frustrating to have a hat this nice and not being able to wear it (I sympathize with the larger sized members who have this all the time). Any thoughts?

View attachment 186614 View attachment 186615 View attachment 186616 View attachment 186617 View attachment 186618 View attachment 186619 View attachment 186620 View attachment 186621 View attachment 186622 View attachment 186623

I would say the size (7 = 57 cm) and the "Imperial" designation are strong indicators for an Stetson made in England.
Could fit me :)
 

Steinbockhase

Practically Family
Messages
514
Location
Munich, Bavaria, Germany
In a summer a few years ago a stockist informed me that she would receive many hats, asking me for an evaluation. The hats came to her, but they were for women, only three were for men. Made in Italy they were of three different browns and very similar felt finishes, except one that was in suede. New and remnant of a men's high fashion store. The price agreement was found and my curiosity became noticeable while they were traveling. Upon arrival they turned out to be made in Italy in a good fur felt and "modeled" along the lines of the Borsalino, all had a thin ribbon. Two have left for Holland and in Fleur's hands have taken new shape to be worn
View attachment 186479
This is marked Kent, very little imagination to give it a trademark
View attachment 186480
in medium-heavy felt finished with a slight hair
View attachment 186481
The hat was trimmed with new ribbon and bow, lining and new shape
View attachment 186482
The dimensions are as follows: raw brim with an "invisible" seam at 6,5 cm. Crown is 12 cm. and the ribbon with a partiular bow at 2,5 cm.
View attachment 186485
The interior with the original "Kent" patch and the new lining
View attachment 186486
The Penumbra mark
View attachment 186487
As for other hats that Fleur of Penumbra has made or reshaped for me I followed her advice without much discussion.
I like to collaborate :)

I have a "Kent", but the logo looks a little different. I thought it was German made.
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,253
Location
Verona - Italia
I have a "Kent", but the logo looks a little different. I thought it was German made.
The ones I have are Italian hats. The labels are clear and probably they are a Tuscan product: Tesi or Falcus.
The felt is of medium quality in two branded "Kent", better in one that has another brand "Mugnai".
Certainly they were produced in the 90s or at the latest 2000. Post a picture or two so we can see it and make a comparision
 
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
I have a "Kent", but the logo looks a little different. I thought it was German made.
The ones I have are Italian hats. The labels are clear and probably they are a Tuscan product: Tesi or Falcus.
The felt is of medium quality in two branded "Kent", better in one that has another brand "Mugnai".
Certainly they were produced in the 90s or at the latest 2000. Post a picture or two so we can see it and make a comparision
I own a Kent too, but I'm not sure if it's the brand or the style. This one. German made.
eres kent_07.jpg
eres kent_02.jpg
 
Messages
19,427
Location
Funkytown, USA
My new Mallory Coast to Coast, before and after Ignacio got rid of the "stitch marks" the seller sent it with. There were several bumps all around the crown.


He also conformed it to my head and washed the liner. This hat is new!
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Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk
Hey Max. Next time you see Ignacio, ask him if he has a method to get sweat stains out of grosgrain.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,253
Location
Verona - Italia
The production of new European hats can be counted on the fingers of one hand. Needless to dwell on the reasons for this skimpy choice. Last year I gave credit to my intuition by buying three Tonak hats from the current production. I was largely satisfied, knowing beforehand I would have dealt with preformed hats.
MarronTonak 5 R.jpg

This year I repeated the experience with two others, giving preference to the "suede" finish of which in Central Europe they have "exclusive" in terms of high quality
MarronTonak 2 R.jpg

Tonak in dark brown, size 58 that fits perfectly. They are generous in proportions in the Czech Republic.
Ribbon and trim of the brim are of the same color of felt
MarronTonak 1 R.jpg

Tonak felt is special for the current standards: medium or thick, they have a very interesting feel, very different from modern Italian hats, certainly lighter. The colors are very interesting as well as the surfaces, completely different, even when they are defined "suede"
The dimensions of this are: trimmed brim at 7 cm., creased crown at 11 cm. and ribbon at 3 cm.
MarronTonak 3 R.jpg

Very interesting, in this I agree with Steve, the bill and the positioning of the tape and the bow.
The finishes are of medium quality
MarronTonak interno.jpg

The only flaw are the shapes that are very similar to one another, but an hatter could supply "new" interpretations.
In USA you have Selentino brand that is the same producer, even if the variety are slightly different
 
Hey Max. Next time you see Ignacio, ask him if he has a method to get sweat stains out of grosgrain.

I will, Jim

Thanks. I fear there is no answer.

From one of Max's posts (9/21/2018): "Ignacio put some drops of ammonia in a bit of water, and then rubbed the binding with it. Then he took the ribbon off, and washed it in the ammonia water. He says if the solution is too strong, the ribbon will be "burned". He says 10 drops of ammonia per 1/4 liter of water is good. All the stains, including the sweat stains in the ribbon, disappeared.
He also told me he doesn't stitch the ribbon to the front part of the hat, because that will let the sweat of the forehead go through the felt and stain the ribbon."
 

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