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Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
Here’s a heartbreaker. NOS Champ Playboy clone in a beautiful green/gray featherweight felt. Very cool details. Picked it up for cheap and it arrived today. As I took it out of the box I thought to myself—I can’t believe how perfect this hat is. How is this possible? It’s never been worn.

Well—mystery explained. The tension of forming to a human head puts these ridiculous waves on either side of the brim.

Is there a solution to this problem? Would reblocking and flanging offer hope? Seems unlikely unless the block was my head. :rolleyes:

If not—anyone here wear a 7 1/8 wide oval and want to give it a shot?

David

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Yup, I've got a few hats that do exactly the same thing (and not the least of them) and it's heartbreaking because it just looks off. The hats just don't get worn because of it. The hat needs to get reblocked and reflanged to remedy the problem.
 

-Ariel-

Familiar Face
Messages
71
Location
Russia
The 60-years old soviet fedora. NOS.
 

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Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
A few new hats came in this week. Here's the first one.

Aerator bowler. Size 57 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at 12cm. French or Belgian make, but the idea of the sweatband is apparently German (brevet Allemand). The cool liner was added later, because the original crown patch was underneath it. It certainly has seen better days, but for the price I couldn't leave it.
A ribbon is now added.
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Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
Here's an interesting one. Bought this as a Morreton in blue. When it arrived it turned out to be full of surprises. First of all it turned out to be a camber style hat, somewhere in between a homburg and a fedora. These were quite popular it seems in France. Then it turned out to be not a size 56, but a size 55. The sweatband on it was almost rock hard, so stretch to be expected there. Another surprise was that it wasn't a Morreton at all, but a Mossant. Both the swetband, the label and the original crown patch underneath the liner all say Mossant. The Morrteon liner was sewn in later it seems. Disappointing? Not at all: Mossant is a better maker than Morreton and the felt is great. The colour is even better: called Bleu Oxford by Mossant. It so happened I still had a Mossant lying around on which the felt was beyond saving, so it donated the sweatband to this one. The pics show the original one though. Long story, but here's the hat (part I)

mossant bayard bleu_01.jpg
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.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Here's an interesting one. Bought this as a Morreton in blue. When it arrived it turned out to be full of surprises. First of all it turned out to be a camber style hat, somewhere in between a homburg and a fedora. These were quite popular it seems in France. Then it turned out to be not a size 56, but a size 55. The sweatband on it was almost rock hard, so stretch to be expected there. Another surprise was that it wasn't a Morreton at all, but a Mossant. Both the swetband, the label and the original crown patch underneath the liner all say Mossant. The Morrteon liner was sewn in later it seems. Disappointing? Not at all: Mossant is a better maker than Morreton and the felt is great. The colour is even better: called Bleu Oxford by Mossant. It so happened I still had a Mossant lying around on which the felt was beyond saving, so it donated the sweatband to this one. The pics show the original one though. Long story, but here's the hat (part I)

View attachment 407256 View attachment 407257 View attachment 407258 View attachment 407259 View attachment 407260 View attachment 407261 View attachment 407262 .


Beautiful! Camber is a new style of hat to me. It looks great and I’d love to find one. It looks a bit like the Dalton John @moehawk recently posted.
 
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
Beautiful! Camber is a new style of hat to me. It looks great and I’d love to find one. It looks a bit like the Dalton John @moehawk recently posted.
Thank you, Brent. Camber is the name the Germans used for this style of hat, or at least Mayser did. Don't really know how widely the term was used, but fits perfectly for these in-between kind of hats.

8m.jpg
 
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
The two Cambiaghi hats from the Severino hat shop arrived this week. Interesting to say the least. Let's start off with the grey one.

Cambiaghi in grey mixed woolfelt. A substantial hat, both in proportions, with the overwelt brim at 6cm and the crown at an imposing 11,5 cm at the center dent, but also in weight, because it clocks in at 155 grams. The felt has suffered somewhat from having had a hat (or multiple hats) stacked on top of it for probably decades. Looks like mothing, but it's too even for that. Doesn't detract much from the hat and isn't all that noticeable in real life. Notice the "7 grands prix" on the sweatband.

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Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
And here is the second one.

Cambiaghi woolfelt or mixed felt in brown with a backbow. Really like the ribbon colour on this one. Raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. The brim has a raw edge, but has an extra groove line that I have never seen before on another hat. Even though this is lower at the center dent this hat seems to have a really towering tall crown. If I'm wearing it it looks like I'm wearing the hat @BobHufford found recently. Can't explain why that should be the case, but there it is. I mean look at that thing!

IMG_4041.jpg



Now it would be really interesting to find out when Cambiaghi won their Grands Prix prizes exactly, because this has "5 Grands Prix" on the sweatband, so in between this one and the previous one they won two more prizes. It would help date the hat. Both are certainly pre-war and this is definitely the older one.

cambiaghi backbow_1.jpg

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Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,870
Location
Denmark
And here is the second one.

Cambiaghi woolfelt or mixed felt in brown with a backbow. Really like the ribbon colour on this one. Raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. The brim has a raw edge, but has an extra groove line that I have never seen before on another hat. Even though this is lower at the center dent this hat seems to have a really towering tall crown. If I'm wearing it it looks like I'm wearing the hat @BobHufford found recently. Can't explain why that should be the case, but there it is. I mean look at that thing!

IMG_4041.jpg



Now it would be really interesting to find out when Cambiaghi won their Grands Prix prizes exactly, because this has "5 Grands Prix" on the sweatband, so in between this one and the previous one they won two more prizes. It would help date the hat. Both are certainly pre-war and this is definitely the older one.

cambiaghi backbow_1.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_2.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_3.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_4.jpg

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cambiaghi backbow_9.jpg
Some super finds, Stefan. Pity they're not a bit larger, but they are all interesting hats of various ages.

I too would like to know when Cambiaghi won their Grands Prix. The one I found last week has 9 on it.
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,870
Location
Denmark
And here is the second one.

Cambiaghi woolfelt or mixed felt in brown with a backbow. Really like the ribbon colour on this one. Raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. The brim has a raw edge, but has an extra groove line that I have never seen before on another hat. Even though this is lower at the center dent this hat seems to have a really towering tall crown. If I'm wearing it it looks like I'm wearing the hat @BobHufford found recently. Can't explain why that should be the case, but there it is. I mean look at that thing!

IMG_4041.jpg



Now it would be really interesting to find out when Cambiaghi won their Grands Prix prizes exactly, because this has "5 Grands Prix" on the sweatband, so in between this one and the previous one they won two more prizes. It would help date the hat. Both are certainly pre-war and this is definitely the older one.

cambiaghi backbow_1.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_2.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_3.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_4.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_5.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_6.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_7.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_8.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_9.jpg
This one is my favourite of your new finds, Stefan. Colour combo, shape, back bow, liner, sweat. What's not to like? Oh ja, the size

Still a great hat though :)
 
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
Some super finds, Stefan. Pity they're not a bit larger, but they are all interesting hats of various ages.

I too would like to know when Cambiaghi won their Grands Prix. The one I found last week has 9 on it.
Thanks, Steve. They are all interesting, but with so many hats, who needs a bland one?;)

Awesome hat Stefan, but it is a pretender when it comes to crown height. ;)

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Thanks, Bob. I'll not show it that picture; it might get ambitious!

This one is my favourite of your new finds, Stefan. Colour combo, shape, back bow, liner, sweat. What's not to like? Oh ja, the size

Still a great hat though :)
Head size: the doom of every hat collector:D
 
Messages
11,718
42174A0B-43F1-4E68-82AC-101A7C3FC847.jpeg

FitzGerald Boston Special
Charcoal Grey Felt
Rakish Crown 4 5/8 from 3 3/8 back
2 1/2 brim with 1/8 bound edge
5/8 grosgrain mid ribbon with circular treatment

Took a chance on this hat from a much lesser known brand. This FitzGerald Boston “Special” is just that. A much darker charcoal grey felt than showed in the sellers photos. Really helps hide some of the mothing on the underside of the brim. Really love the very rakish crown and jaunty brim. The mid-ribbon features a circular sort of broach ribbon treatment. The sweat is directly stitched and I did not want to risk damage so I did not dig too far for manufacturing tags. I feel like it gives me a bit of 40s vibe… but don’t have any dating or company info. Very happy with this one.

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Messages
11,718
And here is the second one.

Cambiaghi woolfelt or mixed felt in brown with a backbow. Really like the ribbon colour on this one. Raw edge brim at 5,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. The brim has a raw edge, but has an extra groove line that I have never seen before on another hat. Even though this is lower at the center dent this hat seems to have a really towering tall crown. If I'm wearing it it looks like I'm wearing the hat @BobHufford found recently. Can't explain why that should be the case, but there it is. I mean look at that thing!

IMG_4041.jpg



Now it would be really interesting to find out when Cambiaghi won their Grands Prix prizes exactly, because this has "5 Grands Prix" on the sweatband, so in between this one and the previous one they won two more prizes. It would help date the hat. Both are certainly pre-war and this is definitely the older one.

cambiaghi backbow_1.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_2.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_3.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_4.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_5.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_6.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_7.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_8.jpg

cambiaghi backbow_9.jpg
Some really fantastic new additions Stefan
 
Messages
18,469
Location
Nederland
Some really fantastic new additions Stefan
Thank you, Joe. Very satisfying to find these.
View attachment 407361
FitzGerald Boston Special
Charcoal Grey Felt
Rakish Crown 4 5/8 from 3 3/8 back
2 1/2 brim with 1/8 bound edge
5/8 grosgrain mid ribbon with circular treatment

Took a chance on this hat from a much lesser known brand. This FitzGerald Boston “Special” is just that. A much darker charcoal grey felt than showed in the sellers photos. Really helps hide some of the mothing on the underside of the brim. Really love the very rakish crown and jaunty brim. The mid-ribbon features a circular sort of broach ribbon treatment. The sweat is directly stitched and I did not want to risk damage so I did not dig too far for manufacturing tags. I feel like it gives me a bit of 40s vibe… but don’t have any dating or company info. Very happy with this one.

View attachment 407362 View attachment 407363 View attachment 407364 View attachment 407365 View attachment 407366 View attachment 407367 View attachment 407369 View attachment 407370
View attachment 407368
I was eyeballing that one because I was intrigued by that ribbon and bow treatment. Don't think we've ever seen one like that before. Very nice! Glad you got it; a fine looking hat.
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,870
Location
Denmark
View attachment 407361
FitzGerald Boston Special
Charcoal Grey Felt
Rakish Crown 4 5/8 from 3 3/8 back
2 1/2 brim with 1/8 bound edge
5/8 grosgrain mid ribbon with circular treatment

Took a chance on this hat from a much lesser known brand. This FitzGerald Boston “Special” is just that. A much darker charcoal grey felt than showed in the sellers photos. Really helps hide some of the mothing on the underside of the brim. Really love the very rakish crown and jaunty brim. The mid-ribbon features a circular sort of broach ribbon treatment. The sweat is directly stitched and I did not want to risk damage so I did not dig too far for manufacturing tags. I feel like it gives me a bit of 40s vibe… but don’t have any dating or company info. Very happy with this one.

View attachment 407362 View attachment 407363 View attachment 407364 View attachment 407365 View attachment 407366 View attachment 407367 View attachment 407369 View attachment 407370
View attachment 407368
Nice catch, Joe. A very 40s look to it indeed. I really like the rake and that unusual ribbon.
 
Messages
11,718
Thank you, Joe. Very satisfying to find these.

I was eyeballing that one because I was intrigued by that ribbon and bow treatment. Don't think we've ever seen one like that before. Very nice! Glad you got it; a fine looking hat.
Thank you Stefan. I was very pleased and quite surprised that my modest bid was the winner. Even more so when I opened the box
Nice catch, Joe. A very 40s look to it indeed. I really like the rake and that unusual ribbon.
Thank you Steve. A lot of what drew me to it… along with the unusual make and beautiful liner. I believe I have seen a similar ribbon treatment… not on anything I own… but I feel like I’ve seen something like this maybe on some older hats from Portis. They were doing some innovative stuff.
 

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