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Messages
18,378
Location
Nederland
Here's a bit of a riddle. A hat that claims to be American but is more likely English made or could even be Belgian. What have we got?
Dunson&Co New York velour in grey. Size 57 with the raw edge brim at 5cm and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. The hats weighs 123 grams. The sweatband has "Fine beaver felt" imprinted on it. Hard to tell, but if it's on the sweatband there probably is some beaver content.
Velour was not something American hatmakers were known for. The size tag says 7 and the label has the size 7 as 57 metric, which is English sizing. The English rarely used metric sizing on their labels for earlier hats. The proportions of the hat also suggest a European make. This size label is not all that common and can be found on Borsalino hats and on Brummel's hats. It's not a Borsalino, so I'm going for the same Belgian manufacturer that made Brummel's hats.


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Messages
18,378
Location
Nederland
This one is definitely French.
Mossant Castor Hudson Diplomatique or homburg if you will. Size 57 with the bound brim at 6cm and crown at 11cm at the center dent. Classic colours with the grey felt (called "Gris australien") and contrasting ribbon and brim binding. The way the felt creases this certainly is beaver felt.

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Messages
18,378
Location
Nederland
Hat one of a two hat deal. The hats came from the same retailer and have some serious age to them. My guess is twenties or thirties.
Fléchet velours in black. Size 55 with the brim at 5,3 cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Gorgeous hand to the felt and luck has it that the moths didn't think it worth it. They felt a bit different about the liner apparently, because that has some holes in it. It has been sitting on the stretcher patiently and will be worn on my size 56 head. Some really nice flange to the back of the brim on this one (and the other one as well). Specially made for the retailer
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Moulin-Faure of Yssingeaux.
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Messages
15,072
Location
Buffalo, NY
And hat two of the two hat deal. This one I think is rather special.
Chapeau Grataloup in black suede finish. raw edge brim at 5,7cm an the crown at 10cm at the center dent. For hat of this age it is in excellent condition.
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Wonderful new finds. Is there a manufacturing label for the Flechet that you can share?
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,217
Location
Verona - Italia
Mossant Castor Hudson Diplomatique or homburg if you will. Size 57 with the bound brim at 6cm and crown at 11cm at the center dent. Classic colours with the grey felt (called "Gris australien") and contrasting ribbon and brim binding. The way the felt creases this certainly is beaver felt.

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My favourite from the bunch even if the Grataloupe sings its song :)
 
Messages
11,632
Hats have been coming in this week. I'm mining a new vein;)

Fléchet Pilote longhair finish. Size 58 but fits like a 57. Overwelt brim at 5cm and crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Unlined or I should say missing its liner or crown patch. French hats are more commonly unlined. Lovely hand to the felt and very soft and thin. Weighs 106 grams. Probably sixties.

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What a soft plush looking felt
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,818
Location
Central Texas
Very nice color on that homburg.

This one is definitely French.
Mossant Castor Hudson Diplomatique or homburg if you will. Size 57 with the bound brim at 6cm and crown at 11cm at the center dent. Classic colours with the grey felt (called "Gris australien") and contrasting ribbon and brim binding. The way the felt creases this certainly is beaver felt.

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Messages
18,378
Location
Nederland
Wonderful new finds. Is there a manufacturing label for the Flechet that you can share?
Thanks, Alan. I would have loved to have found a label inside the hat, but there isn't one there. Same with the Grataloup. Just the size tags.

My favourite from the bunch even if the Grataloupe sings its song :)
Thanks, Daniele. It is rather lovely and I've found a good home for it already.

What a soft plush looking felt
Thanks, Joe.

Very nice color on that homburg.
Thank you, Randy.
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
And hat two of the two hat deal. This one I think is rather special.
Chapeau Grataloup in black suede finish. raw edge brim at 5,7cm an the crown at 10cm at the center dent. For hat of this age it is in excellent condition.
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Stefan, Great finds! Super to see all the speciality finishes. Also the French Hat Companies plus the mystery entries.
 
Messages
11,632
Royal Stetson Playboy - Black
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Royal Stetson Playboy
Lightweight black felt
5 inch crown as shaped
3/4 inch grosgrain mid ribbon
2 1/8 raw edge brim

Of the nine mystery hats I had coming all I knew was that one of them was a Playboy. So why not start here. A super dusty black Royal Stetson Playboy. I think it cleaned up rather nicely though. Did not find a manufacturing tag under the sweat only the reorder tag... but I would guess this one about 1950s vintage. Correct me if I’m wrong there. There is no edge stitching on the 2 1/8 raw brim but the profile definitely has that Playboy look. What is next from the mystery box?

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Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Royal Stetson Playboy - Black
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Royal Stetson Playboy
Lightweight black felt
5 inch crown as shaped
3/4 inch grosgrain mid ribbon
2 1/8 raw edge brim

Of the nine mystery hats I had coming all I knew was that one of them was a Playboy. So why not start here. A super dusty black Royal Stetson Playboy. I think it cleaned up rather nicely though. Did not find a manufacturing tag under the sweat only the reorder tag... but I would guess this one about 1950s vintage. Correct me if I’m wrong there. There is no edge stitching on the 2 1/8 raw brim but the profile definitely has that Playboy look. What is next from the mystery box?

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Great job in cleaning it up. Looks like a completely different hat.
 

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