Post New Hats Here!

[Redfokker]

A couple of weeks ago I was lucky enough to find a pair of nice Italian hats, a Borsalino and a Barbisio. Bummer was, both were too small for me.
Well, Stefan (steur) pointed out that they would fit him, and he had some that were too big, so a hat swap was on! After a flurry of PMs and emails, I had it narrowed down to three of the possible candidates. Stefan (with just a wee nudge from the Mrs.) made me the very generous offer of a 3 for 2 swap to spare me the stress of deciding. Couldn't pass that up! Upon receiving and inspecting the hats yesterday, I came to the conclusion that, as hard as it was to box up and send away those two beautiful hats, any two of the three I received in return would have easily soothed that anguish. The third? It was the whipped cream and maraschino cherry on top of the sundae.
So who got the best of the deal? I think Mrs. Steur might claim that honor if asked... one less dusty old hat in the house!
So here's the first. These have already been posted in detail by Stefan in their respective library threads, so I'm not risking sweats for tag shots even though they all seem to be in good shape.
Panizza Nocciola. Mid 50's to mid 60's is Stefan's estimate.

The innards:

No stamping on the sweatband. It looks reeded at first glance, but when I felt behind it, there was no reed tape. It has the fake reed edge on an unreeded sweat like my French mystery hat from Maximes. There is an unusual feature on the band, a few inches from the unsewn back seam is what felt like another seam or maybe where a piece was patched in...on closer inspection I can't tell what it is.

Maybe the cow had a scar.

This one is also unusual to me in the fact that is quite generously shellacked. All of my other Italian hats except my fu Lazzaro bowler are much less stiffened. Not that it is in any way unmalleable or hard to shape, just a lot of body. The felt has a really nice feel to it. This is a hat for a man who likes sharp lines and deliberate creases. And a SNAP to his brim!
Crown at five inches open, brim at two and three eighths. One hundred and nine grams. Fit is very close, a slightly big 58.

Head shots. Truer color:

Love it! Can't wait till the heat subsides enough to actually wear it.
Another one tomorrow!



Powered by happy thoughts

This one is so great, I can't wait for tomorrow's installment! This is an epic deal on both sides of the ocean.

 

[steur]

A couple of weeks ago I was lucky enough to find a pair of nice Italian hats, a Borsalino and a Barbisio. Bummer was, both were too small for me.
Well, Stefan (steur) pointed out that they would fit him, and he had some that were too big, so a hat swap was on! After a flurry of PMs and emails, I had it narrowed down to three of the possible candidates. Stefan (with just a wee nudge from the Mrs.) made me the very generous offer of a 3 for 2 swap to spare me the stress of deciding. Couldn't pass that up! Upon receiving and inspecting the hats yesterday, I came to the conclusion that, as hard as it was to box up and send away those two beautiful hats, any two of the three I received in return would have easily soothed that anguish. The third? It was the whipped cream and maraschino cherry on top of the sundae.
So who got the best of the deal? I think Mrs. Steur might claim that honor if asked... one less dusty old hat in the house!
So here's the first. These have already been posted in detail by Stefan in their respective library threads, so I'm not risking sweats for tag shots even though they all seem to be in good shape.
Panizza Nocciola. Mid 50's to mid 60's is Stefan's estimate.

The innards:

No stamping on the sweatband. It looks reeded at first glance, but when I felt behind it, there was no reed tape. It has the fake reed edge on an unreeded sweat like my French mystery hat from Maximes. There is an unusual feature on the band, a few inches from the unsewn back seam is what felt like another seam or maybe where a piece was patched in...on closer inspection I can't tell what it is.

Maybe the cow had a scar.

This one is also unusual to me in the fact that is quite generously shellacked. All of my other Italian hats except my fu Lazzaro bowler are much less stiffened. Not that it is in any way unmalleable or hard to shape, just a lot of body. The felt has a really nice feel to it. This is a hat for a man who likes sharp lines and deliberate creases. And a SNAP to his brim!
Crown at five inches open, brim at two and three eighths. One hundred and nine grams. Fit is very close, a slightly big 58.

Head shots. Truer color:

Love it! Can't wait till the heat subsides enough to actually wear it.
Another one tomorrow!



Powered by happy thoughts

Looks good on you, John. Good to see that hat get some wearing time (if only to test it for now). Mrs. Steur might have won a small battle, but she's losing the war as more hats are coming in

 

[Bob Roberts]

Looks good on you, John. Good to see that hat get some wearing time (if only to test it for now). Mrs. Steur might have won a small battle, but she's losing the war as more hats are coming in

Sometimes you have to give up a little ground to make a major advance. Chose your battles wisely.

 

[RJR]

Sometimes you have to give up a little ground to make a major advance. Chose your battles wisely.

 

[moehawk]

Here's the second of the hats I traded for. This one came to Stefan in a disheveled state. It needed some work. Not that I'm complaining, folks that have followed my posts know that I love a project. As it would happen, the main cause of my decision making angst before Stefan proposed the 3 for 2 swap was choosing between the picture-perfect Panizza with it's clean lines, sweet raw edged brim and dimensions right in my wheelhouse and this generously-brimmed German Hückel with dimples and wrinkles in the pics posted in the German and Austrian thread. The Panizza was losing as I could already feel the felt of that Hückel molding in my fingers under a jet of steam...good thing the decision was taken out of my hands!
As I began steaming and working the beautifully malleable felt, it appeared as if someone sometime in it's life had stretched it past it's marked size of 57 up to a 58, but had done so in a way that left a flared or belled effect down toward the brim break. Like someone crammed it onto a head too big and wore it a while. Not dramatic, but enough to throw off the lines and also to bug me. I tried to work on it without removing the stitched-in liner, but in the end I made the decision to pull it out. Talk about quality of construction! That thing was sewn in there tighter (around the crown base AND tip) than some of my hand-stitched sweatbands...
Anyhoo, after a bunch more steaming and working the felt, I managed to reduce the effect. Liner is temporarily taped back in until I feel like restitching it.
Here's a few pics.

Sweat stamps:

Interior:

No factory tag.
Crown at a touch over 5", brim at 2 3/4" 110 grams. 3/4" ribbon, 3/8" brim binding (or perhaps a tiny bit slimmer). Great shade-casting ability.

Head shors:

Looks brownish in that light, but a nice grey just a bit darker than in the previous shots. I'll try to get pics soon earlier in the afternoon for better color.
Overall quite pleased with this one!
The third is coming soon!

Powered by happy thoughts

 

[Redfokker]

Here's the second of the hats I traded for. This one came to Stefan in a disheveled state. It needed some work. Not that I'm complaining, folks that have followed my posts know that I love a project. As it would happen, the main cause of my decision making angst before Stefan proposed the 3 for 2 swap was choosing between the picture-perfect Panizza with it's clean lines, sweet raw edged brim and dimensions right in my wheelhouse and this generously-brimmed German Hückel with dimples and wrinkles in the pics posted in the German and Austrian thread. The Panizza was losing as I could already feel the felt of that Hückel molding in my fingers under a jet of steam...good thing the decision was taken out of my hands!
As I began steaming and working the beautifully malleable felt, it appeared as if someone sometime in it's life had stretched it past it's marked size of 57 up to a 58, but had done so in a way that left a flared or belled effect down toward the brim break. Like someone crammed it onto a head too big and wore it a while. Not dramatic, but enough to throw off the lines and also to bug me. I tried to work on it without removing the stitched-in liner, but in the end I made the decision to pull it out. Talk about quality of construction! That thing was sewn in there tighter (around the crown base AND tip) than some of my hand-stitched sweatbands...
Anyhoo, after a bunch more steaming and working the felt, I managed to reduce the effect. Liner is temporarily taped back in until I feel like restitching it.
Here's a few pics.

Sweat stamps:

Interior:

No factory tag.
Crown at a touch over 5", brim at 2 3/4" 110 grams. 3/4" ribbon, 3/8" brim binding (or perhaps a tiny bit slimmer). Great shade-casting ability.

Head shors:

Looks brownish in that light, but a nice grey just a bit darker than in the previous shots. I'll try to get pics soon earlier in the afternoon for better color.
Overall quite pleased with this one!
The third is coming soon!

Powered by happy thoughts

You both made out like bandits. This German beauty just screams continental. Is Crusty Land nearby? I would have got a T-shirt as well!

 

[moehawk]

Looks good on you, John. Good to see that hat get some wearing time (if only to test it for now). Mrs. Steur might have won a small battle, but she's losing the war as more hats are coming in

I've heard of a war of attrition, but this sounds more like a war of addition...

 

[moehawk]

You both made out like bandits. This German beauty just screams continental. Is Crusty Land nearby? I would have got a T-shirt as well!

Thanks Red!
If I remember right, my nieces picked out this shirt for me a few years back when they went to Universal Studios.

 

[steur]

Here's the second of the hats I traded for. This one came to Stefan in a disheveled state. It needed some work. Not that I'm complaining, folks that have followed my posts know that I love a project. As it would happen, the main cause of my decision making angst before Stefan proposed the 3 for 2 swap was choosing between the picture-perfect Panizza with it's clean lines, sweet raw edged brim and dimensions right in my wheelhouse and this generously-brimmed German Hückel with dimples and wrinkles in the pics posted in the German and Austrian thread. The Panizza was losing as I could already feel the felt of that Hückel molding in my fingers under a jet of steam...good thing the decision was taken out of my hands!
As I began steaming and working the beautifully malleable felt, it appeared as if someone sometime in it's life had stretched it past it's marked size of 57 up to a 58, but had done so in a way that left a flared or belled effect down toward the brim break. Like someone crammed it onto a head too big and wore it a while. Not dramatic, but enough to throw off the lines and also to bug me. I tried to work on it without removing the stitched-in liner, but in the end I made the decision to pull it out. Talk about quality of construction! That thing was sewn in there tighter (around the crown base AND tip) than some of my hand-stitched sweatbands...
Anyhoo, after a bunch more steaming and working the felt, I managed to reduce the effect. Liner is temporarily taped back in until I feel like restitching it.
Here's a few pics.

Sweat stamps:

Interior:

No factory tag.
Crown at a touch over 5", brim at 2 3/4" 110 grams. 3/4" ribbon, 3/8" brim binding (or perhaps a tiny bit slimmer). Great shade-casting ability.

Head shors:

Looks brownish in that light, but a nice grey just a bit darker than in the previous shots. I'll try to get pics soon earlier in the afternoon for better color.
Overall quite pleased with this one!
The third is coming soon!

Powered by happy thoughts

Wow! I must say John you did a great job on making that hat work for you. I certainly never got it working for me that way. It's nice to see it in such good shape again. I guess it needed a firm hand.

 

[mayserwegener]

Here's the second of the hats I traded for. This one came to Stefan in a disheveled state. It needed some work. Not that I'm complaining, folks that have followed my posts know that I love a project. As it would happen, the main cause of my decision making angst before Stefan proposed the 3 for 2 swap was choosing between the picture-perfect Panizza with it's clean lines, sweet raw edged brim and dimensions right in my wheelhouse and this generously-brimmed German Hückel with dimples and wrinkles in the pics posted in the German and Austrian thread. The Panizza was losing as I could already feel the felt of that Hückel molding in my fingers under a jet of steam...good thing the decision was taken out of my hands!
As I began steaming and working the beautifully malleable felt, it appeared as if someone sometime in it's life had stretched it past it's marked size of 57 up to a 58, but had done so in a way that left a flared or belled effect down toward the brim break. Like someone crammed it onto a head too big and wore it a while. Not dramatic, but enough to throw off the lines and also to bug me. I tried to work on it without removing the stitched-in liner, but in the end I made the decision to pull it out. Talk about quality of construction! That thing was sewn in there tighter (around the crown base AND tip) than some of my hand-stitched sweatbands...
Anyhoo, after a bunch more steaming and working the felt, I managed to reduce the effect. Liner is temporarily taped back in until I feel like restitching it.
Here's a few pics.

Sweat stamps:

Interior:

No factory tag.
Crown at a touch over 5", brim at 2 3/4" 110 grams. 3/4" ribbon, 3/8" brim binding (or perhaps a tiny bit slimmer). Great shade-casting ability.

Head shors:

Looks brownish in that light, but a nice grey just a bit darker than in the previous shots. I'll try to get pics soon earlier in the afternoon for better color.
Overall quite pleased with this one!
The third is coming soon!

Powered by happy thoughts

Super! It's a Hückel Weilheim Germany and probably mid 1950s maybe a bit later. Hückel Weilheim never used paper labels (with size, color, form, ect.) for some reason. Is the Hückel tag missing from the end of the hanging cord?

 

[moehawk]

Wow! I must say John you did a great job on making that hat work for you. I certainly never got it working for me that way. It's nice to see it in such good shape again. I guess it needed a firm hand.

Thanks! It was not too much of a challenge to straighten it up, but it was a welcome distraction from the unusually warm evening. Good thing my steamer has a long enough cord to take it out on the porch!

 

[moehawk]

Super! It's a Hückel Weilheim Germany and probably mid 1950s maybe a bit later. Hückel Weilheim never used paper labels (with size, color, form, ect.) for some reason. Is the Hückel tag missing from the end of the hanging cord?

Thanks mayser! Interesting that they didn't use labels. It does have the hanging cord tag and a round size sticker under the sweat.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thanks mayser! Interesting that they didn't use labels. It does have the hanging cord tag and a round size sticker under the sweat.

It could be trademark related but that is just a guess. The original Hückel factory in Neutitschein / Nový Jičín (Czechoslovakia) became Tonak and they eventually used the Hückel trademark outside of Germany. I have never been able to find out the specifics. I do know that Hückel Weilheim had to use "Fritz Hückel Hutmacher" and not "Hückel" for hats that they exported to America in this time period so Tonak must have had the Hückel trademark for America (or it could have been under litigation).

 

[moehawk]

And the third installment of the Great International Hat Swap of '17.
Thus was the first one I looked at, and it was in my mental shopping cart before I even saw the last pic. A true no-brainer.

Mayser Spezial Homburg, 50's vintage.

I really like the bow.

Interior:

Sweat stamps:

And the factory tag:

Felt and construction are everything I'd hoped for all these years seeing Steve's Maysers (plus those of other Loungers) but never having handled one. In a word, marvelous.
Crown at 5 1/2" open, brim at 2 1/4". 143g.

Head shot:

Now I want more Maysers...

Powered by happy thoughts

 

[FedOregon]

Here's the second of the hats I traded for. This one came to Stefan in a disheveled state. It needed some work. Not that I'm complaining, folks that have followed my posts know that I love a project. As it would happen, the main cause of my decision making angst before Stefan proposed the 3 for 2 swap was choosing between the picture-perfect Panizza with it's clean lines, sweet raw edged brim and dimensions right in my wheelhouse and this generously-brimmed German Hückel with dimples and wrinkles in the pics posted in the German and Austrian thread. The Panizza was losing as I could already feel the felt of that Hückel molding in my fingers under a jet of steam...good thing the decision was taken out of my hands!
As I began steaming and working the beautifully malleable felt, it appeared as if someone sometime in it's life had stretched it past it's marked size of 57 up to a 58, but had done so in a way that left a flared or belled effect down toward the brim break. Like someone crammed it onto a head too big and wore it a while. Not dramatic, but enough to throw off the lines and also to bug me. I tried to work on it without removing the stitched-in liner, but in the end I made the decision to pull it out. Talk about quality of construction! That thing was sewn in there tighter (around the crown base AND tip) than some of my hand-stitched sweatbands...
Anyhoo, after a bunch more steaming and working the felt, I managed to reduce the effect. Liner is temporarily taped back in until I feel like restitching it.
Here's a few pics.

Sweat stamps:

Interior:

No factory tag.
Crown at a touch over 5", brim at 2 3/4" 110 grams. 3/4" ribbon, 3/8" brim binding (or perhaps a tiny bit slimmer). Great shade-casting ability.

Head shors:

Looks brownish in that light, but a nice grey just a bit darker than in the previous shots. I'll try to get pics soon earlier in the afternoon for better color.
Overall quite pleased with this one!
The third is coming soon!

Powered by happy thoughts

It sure looks great from where I sit! Great job, Moe!

 

[FedOregon]

And the third installment of the Great International Hat Swap of '17.
Thus was the first one I looked at, and it was in my mental shopping cart before I even saw the last pic. A true no-brainer.

Mayser Spezial Homburg, 50's vintage.

I really like the bow.

Interior:

Sweat stamps:

And the factory tag:

Felt and construction are everything I'd hoped for all these years seeing Steve's Maysers (plus those of other Loungers) but never having handled one. In a word, marvelous.
Crown at 5 1/2" open, brim at 2 1/4". 143g.

Head shot:

Now I want more Maysers...

Powered by happy thoughts

Wonderful! I love those double-winged bows myself!

 

[moehawk]

View attachment 84783
Northwest hats in whiskey today.

It sure looks great from where I sit! Great job, Moe!

Wonderful! I love those double-winged bows myself!

Thanks Fed! I am quite happy with how the Hückel turned out. All three are going to be enjoyed.

 

[Redfokker]

And the third installment of the Great International Hat Swap of '17.
Thus was the first one I looked at, and it was in my mental shopping cart before I even saw the last pic. A true no-brainer.

Mayser Spezial Homburg, 50's vintage.

I really like the bow.

Interior:

Sweat stamps:

And the factory tag:

Felt and construction are everything I'd hoped for all these years seeing Steve's Maysers (plus those of other Loungers) but never having handled one. In a word, marvelous.
Crown at 5 1/2" open, brim at 2 1/4". 143g.

Head shot:

Now I want more Maysers...

Powered by happy thoughts

Damn John, you sure saved the best for last! This is truly one of the nicest European Homburgs floating around the lounge. I am in awe!

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Vanzina Extra Extra Grigio - Color Uranio

I came accross, during summer time, some hats produced in the Cappellificio Vanzina of Pavia ( Milan ) sold in Genova

Difficult to say if they are produced before or after Borsalino bought the Vanzina facility. I think this hat was produced after the Borsalino take over

There is no Borsalino sign, but my conviction is stated above

Vanzina made in deep grey fur felt
Size is 57 cm. (7 1/8 US) Crown is 12 cm (4.75 inches) overwelted brim is 5 cm. (2 inches)
The fur felt is medium soft, pliable and in a special short hair finish

Linen in white with an excellent sweatband

Vanzina have its own mark and not the Borsalino marks

The wonderful deep grey felt is completed with a fantastic ribbon in satin 4.5 cm with an elegant bow
The fur felt in a short hair finish has a soft touch

New old stock. A perfect hat from another hats shop closed in Genova

 

[Redfokker]

Vanzina Extra Extra Grigio - Color Uranio

I came accross, during summer time, some hats produced in the Cappellificio Vanzina of Pavia ( Milan ) sold in Genova

Difficult to say if they are produced before or after Borsalino bought the Vanzina facility. I think this hat was produced after the Borsalino take over

There is no Borsalino sign, but my conviction is stated above

Vanzina made in deep grey fur felt
Size is 57 cm. (7 1/8 US) Crown is 12 cm (4.75 inches) overwelted brim is 5 cm. (2 inches)
The fur felt is medium soft, pliable and in a special short hair finish

Linen in white with an excellent sweatband

Vanzina have its own mark and not the Borsalino marks

The wonderful deep grey felt is completed with a fantastic ribbon in satin 4.5 cm with an elegant bow
The fur felt in a short hair finish has a soft touch

New old stock. A perfect hat from another hats shop closed in Genova

This is a classic beauty Daniele, the ribbon is the best part of this hat!