Plus Size Vintage

[DillyDolly]

Thanks!

 

[LadyDevereaux]

Oh I love this thread!!

I myself am a plus size vintage sweetheart but finding anything my size is impossible lol I'm currently a 30/32 26/28 depending on who makes it. I always shop around the net and local plus size stores looking for goodies though and I have made some nice vintage inspired scores.

Right now I am building up a wardrobe after losing some weight.

I'm saving up the money to get a few custom made staples for myself.

What I like to do, to accompany the vintage style outfits, is add authentic vintage accesories. Hats, purses, scarves and always the hairstyle and makeup.

I buy vintage style jewelry as well.

I'd love to do authentic, but right now, that's not quite impossible lol

 

[~Psycho Sue~]

Retro Clothing for Ladies over size 18 (US)???

So I am a large and in charge type of gal who loves vintage...and as you know there is a limited selection of clothing retail outfitters for large women (i hate the term "Plus" plus what?).
I can sew, and most of my vintage inspired pieces are handmade by me. That has been the best resource for my size. I have a 52 bust and a 62 hip. So even the vintage repro patterns are not my size. I really need to get into pattern alterations in a big way.

1.Are there any gals over size 18 who up-size vintage patterns?
2. Are there any gals over size 18 here?
3. Where do you shop?
4. Do you make your own?
5. What is the best vintage style for the lady with a big bust and hips?

I would love some help in this! I am drooling over gorgeousness that I cannot wear!

 

[kamikat]

I am a stout lady (the term used back then). I've been anywhere from size 10 to size 20 and everything in between. There are lots of larger sized vintage patterns out there, you just have to be patient and willing to pay a little more. The best thing to do is put in a search on eBay and save it. EBay will email you when your size comes up. Another option is grading up. A lot of patterns in my collection are sized for 32 and 34 bust and that is more than 10in smaller than I am. I did a blog post on grading http://newvintage.wordpress.com/2009/05/13/how-to-grade-patterns/ If you have a large bust, large hip and a well-defined waist, just about any 50s style is gonna look great. I tend to prefer an a-line or flared skirt over a dirndle or gathered skirt, as I don't need any extra fabric right at the waist. Another tip is to make sure you wear a good foundation garment. Rago makes waist cinchers and girdles in plus sizes. These are a must because vintage patterns were drafted to be worn with them. They won't fit in the waist without them.

 

[23SkidooWithYou]

Psycho Sue,

Good questions! I'll be interested to read the replies. I'm also in the larger size market and baby, it's tough. I personally love the 20's look when things were straight up and down. If (and that's a big IF) I could find my size, I'd be thrilled with that silouhette. It's just not realistic as those flapper gals were TINEEE.

I've been looking at the 50's stuff because I can def fill out the bust and the hips lol but their waist sizes are a bit smaller because of the "look" so I'm having issues, lol. I've been wearing baggy sweats at home and I wear scrubs to work, so it's going to take a while to get used to seeing my figure again. Eeek!

I think the most important thing, regardless of decade will be BALANCE as my hips are a bit bigger than my bust. The structured shoulder of the 40's suit, a peplum waist with a straighter skirt could help, I think.

Good luck with your pattern alterations!
Blaze the trail!!!!! :eusa_clap

 

[23SkidooWithYou]

Another tip is to make sure you wear a good foundation garment. Rago makes waist cinchers and girdles in plus sizes. These are a must because vintage patterns were drafted to be worn with them. They won't fit in the waist without them.

Kamikat!

Well, I just had a "duh" moment. The gosh darn foundations! Here I am feeling a bit freakish because my waist size just will not comply with the garments I've seen. Thank you so much for this post!

Now, do you think the fit also depends on wearing "bullet bras" too? *gulp* I'm not sure I can go quite that authentic.

 

[kamikat]

Kamikat!

Well, I just had a "duh" moment. The gosh darn foundations! Here I am feeling a bit freakish because my waist size just will not comply with the garments I've seen. Thank you so much for this post!

Now, do you think the fit also depends on wearing "bullet bras" too? *gulp* I'm not sure I can go quite that authentic.

I have found that the bust on vintage garments and patterns to be higher. If you are making it, you can easily lower the bust point. If you are talking about an actual vintage garment, you can get away with a modern longline bra. These tend to be more supportive than a regular bra, meaning your bust will be up around your ears, but not as pointy as vintage bras.

 

[~Psycho Sue~]

Kamikat,
I also read that the bust points are higher and need to be lowered in vintage patterns. The Vogue reproductions have already been altered for that, yay!

I am just venturing into this pattern alteration thing. I am a US ready-to-wear size 28, and doing an ebay search is not gonna be fruitful, since I know that patterns were not made that big at all back then

I have been studying old books online that teach about pattern making in the 50s, and I think that I might be able to learn this and draft new patterns. If I do, then I WILL START A BUSINESS FOR VINTAGE SIZES OVER 18!

 

[kamikat]

I am just venturing into this pattern alteration thing. I am a US ready-to-wear size 28, and doing an ebay search is not gonna be fruitful, since I know that patterns were not made that big at all back then

The largest I've seen to-date is for a 54in bust. It just takes patience to wait for them. I frequently see patterns that are 46. This would be an easy intro into grading up. The thing to remember is that each 1in added to just the side seams equals 4in added total to the finished garment measurement. Unless you are really broad shoulders and are really tall (like 5'10" and up) you would just need to add 2in to the side seams of a 46Bust pattern to make it work. It's not that difficult and completely worth it to get the dress you want. The key is to try it out on cheap fabric before your dress fabric.

 

[Blondie]

Wow KamiKat you really know your stuff !

 

[~Psycho Sue~]

The largest I've seen to-date is for a 54in bust. It just takes patience to wait for them. I frequently see patterns that are 46. This would be an easy intro into grading up. The thing to remember is that each 1in added to just the side seams equals 4in added total to the finished garment measurement. Unless you are really broad shoulders and are really tall (like 5'10" and up) you would just need to add 2in to the side seams of a 46Bust pattern to make it work. It's not that difficult and completely worth it to get the dress you want. The key is to try it out on cheap fabric before your dress fabric.

thanks for the tip about adding to side seams! that is totally astonishing that you have been able to find vintage that large! It must be directly related to the style and cut of the garment design? It must to have been designed with a lot of ease originally I would guess? I would love to start with a pattern that is a 46 bust, that would be ideal, as you said. I think I can manage this with the Vogue repros!
I want this one http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V1044.htm?tab=list/vintage_vogue&page=all

 

[Miss Neecerie]

The vintage vogue patterns run large...so beware and make a muslin.

 

[kamikat]

thanks for the tip about adding to side seams! that is totally astonishing that you have been able to find vintage that large! It must be directly related to the style and cut of the garment design? It must to have been designed with a lot of ease originally I would guess?

No, the larger patterns have no more ease than the smaller patterns. Patterns back then were drafted to be worn over girdles and therefore could be worn snugger than today's clothes. If you look through the Vintage Lane Bryant thread, you'll see from the pictures that eventhough the models were larger, they still had the desired figure because they wore the proper undergarments.
http://thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=12090&highlight=Lane+Bryant

 

[~Psycho Sue~]

kamikat! thanks for all the info..and bring that thread to attention...so beautiful, and this all makes me feel better about not being skinny minnie

 

[Miss 1929]

The vintage vogue patterns run large...so beware and make a muslin.

Glad to know that - I am about to make one!

 

[23SkidooWithYou]

And what would you like for Christmas little girl?

Oh Santa...just everything in the 1934 LB catalog!

Is it wrong to swoon over print ads?

 

[~Psycho Sue~]

And what would you like for Christmas little girl?

Oh Santa...just everything in the 1934 LB catalog!

Is it wrong to swoon over print ads?

No! But we're going to hell anyways!

 

[exquisitebones]

I will first state, that I might not know what I am talking about at all. So forgive me if I sound like an idiot..


I think a lot of real vintage, is easy to find in larger sizes. I sell vintage, and I find more of it than I do in my size for sure.
The thing about vintage dresses, is the bust and hip size can be in the xlarge range, or eve xxlarge. but the waist is in more of the plain old large. the proportions were insane. I think it might be because of tightening foundation garments? to make your middle area fit in the dang dress. hehe. lol

Kamikat, that is a cool link on grading patterns!!! thanks!

 

[kamikat]

I want this one http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V1044.htm?tab=list/vintage_vogue&page=all

This pattern would not be a good one for a first grading up project. The odd shape of the shoulders and side seams need to be just so in order for them to go together. For a first attempt, try a more basic one like http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V2902.htm?tab=vintage_vogue&page=2

 

[23SkidooWithYou]

No! But we're going to hell anyways!

Like I always say...at least I'll know everybody there! lol

In an effort to remain on topic...I'm still obsessively searching Etsy and Ebay. I think I decided I'm only going to look at "buy it now" stuff on Ebay. The auctions are much too frustrating and I'm suspect that people "test" your limits so I will only place a single bid as opposed to a maximum. I'm still a little frustrated figuring out sizes but I'm learning and remembering to add to my measurements for ease.

I've also worked up a little list:
Waist cincher
49er Jacket
Vintage Jeans (blue bell?)
High waisted 40's pants
40's sweater of some type (like Rocket Originals repros) but I wouldn't rule out a cute 50's cardigan