Pleats without cuffs?

[tonyb]

I picked up this nice pair of what the vintage dealer seems to think are 1940s or perhaps early '50s trousers -- black (or dark, dark grey) with a silvery sorta thread running through it, drop loops, pleats and cuffs. They're in quite nice condition and fit me well at the waist and in the seat (or so says the dewy-eyed bride, who has made a study of such matters), but they are just an inch or two short. So I took 'em to my favorite alterations lady who says yes, there's enough fabric there to make 'em fit properly, but I'll lose the cuff.

So, seeing how they wouldn't get worn if I didn't have them lengthened, I told her to go for it. I'll pick 'em up later this week.

The question is, am I committing a sin by "converting" a vintage pair of pants in this way? Is there some hard-and-fast rule that says pleated, high-waisted trousers must also have cuffs? Should I go retrieve those pants before the seamstress gets around to working on them?

 

[Orgetorix]

I don't know whether it's vintage sacrilege to do so, but I wouldn't much care. Though I prefer cuffs on all my pants, I have many pairs I've thrifted that don't have them, and I'm perfectly content to leave them as they are.

 

[tonyb]

Thanks for the quick response, Orgetorix. I'm similarly inclined -- I'd rather have the cuffs, but I also want to wear the pants, and without lengthening them that ain't gonna happen.

I have come to think of my old stuff (the hats especially) as being under my stewardship rather than ownership. (There's gotta be a better way to characterize this, but I imagine you get the drift.) I'd like this stuff to be around after I'm gone. So I wear it, but I wear it gently. And I kick myself for the damage I've done to some of the stuff that has passed through my hands over the years.

 

[surely]

When I get a vintage hat that is nicely molded [crease & dents] I prefer to leave it as is; I think it's special that the shape has lasted so long & it should stay that way as long as it's in my possession.

The pants not the same thing; though you could of just worn really nice socks.

 

[Marty M.]

Pleats without cuffs . It's OK, we're very forgiving here at the Lounge .
Marty Mathis

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

Pleats without cuffs . It's OK, we're very forgiving here at the Lounge .
Marty Mathis

Do you include trousers for formal and semi-formal day or evening dress in the " "?

 

[Tomasso]

There is a tailoring technique called a French cuff which is a faux cuff that will give the look of cuffs but requires a fraction of the material. It's quite possible that it could be sucsessfully employed on your trousers.

 

[Feraud]

I hope this is not too off topic...

How much material is required to make a cuff? Let us say I want a 2" cuff on my pants? Aside from the French cuff noted above, what is the least amount of material necessary to put in a cuff?
I have a feeling my tailor is lazy and trying to put me off...

 

[Tomasso]

How much material is required to make a cuff? Let us say I want a 2" cuff on my pants? what is the least amount of material necessary to put in a cuff?

You'd need 4" (double the cuff size) for the cuff on the exterior and at least 1" to finish on the interior.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Unless you go for a false cuff when 4" would be the total. You can get away with less, but i found it harder to get the cuff to remain pressed correctly with less. [whoops must read thread before posting]

Though i guess you could just put in a 1/4" fold and stitch the fold in place. That would kind of give the effect f a cuff

bk

 

[Feraud]

Thanks for the info fellas. My tailor (who has done 2" cuffs for me in the past) recently looked at my like I had two heads when I asked for this. She gave me a song and dance regarding the amount of material needed.
I might have to take my business elsewhere if she is going to hassle me over a simple operation.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I am currently working on a pair of trousers (1950s British) where i have about 1/4" to finish the interior of the cuff, and it is truly a bugger. But the inseam was 26" (too short even for me) and the suit is lovely, and allowed me to sell that CC41 one to GhostAssassin 'cause it has the same fabric, so i really want it wearable! Made of the wonderful "Burton's" grey 'pick and pick' staple fabric of the 30s, 40s and 50s.

bk

 

[Tomasso]

Though i guess you could just put in a 1/4" fold and stitch the fold in place. That would kind of give the effect f a cuff

That's the French cuff technique I mentioned above.

 

[Tomasso]

I am currently working on a pair of trousers (1950s British) where i have about 1/4" to finish the interior of the cuff, and it is truly a bugger.

You could sew some similar material to extend the length and cuff as usual, the added material will be on the interior and so less noticeable. It's a common tailoring trick not sure if it has a name.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

That's the French cuff technique I mentioned above.

Yep. Hence:

[whoops must read thread before posting]

bk

 

[Jovan]

Pleats without cuffs . It's OK, we're very forgiving here at the Lounge .
Marty Mathis

I have trousers that go both ways... pleats and no cuff, and no pleats with a cuff.

 

[Marty M.]

I have trousers that go both ways... pleats and no cuff, and no pleats with a cuff.

I'm just a believer in pleats with cuffs "whenever possible". I'm also a fan of plain fronts with or without cuffs. Though I'm not real hip on tux pants with cuffs.
Marty Mathis

 

[Jovan]

Those are bad form universally. Brooks Brothers tried to do it in their formal wear shoots... didn't really look right.

 

[tonyb]

I'm just a believer in pleats with cuffs "whenever possible". I'm also a fan of plain fronts with or without cuffs. Though I'm not real hip on tux pants with cuffs.
Marty Mathis

That's what I'm thinking too, Marty. In this case, it may be possible, strictly speaking, but perhaps not advisable. We'll see how they come out. What the heck, I have only $24 into the trousers and a truly nominal amount to the seamstress. (She works cheap, bless her soul.)

I'm speculating that the reason the fabric is doubled at the cuff (a "true" cuff, anyway) is so it will be of sufficient heft to hang properly. Is that right?

By the way, Marty, I appreciate you and Tomasso and others for sharing your knowledge. If this keeps happening, I may grow emboldened to the point of buying a sewing machine. But that could be dangerous.

 

[reetpleat]

Unless you go for a false cuff when 4" would be the total. You can get away with less, but i found it harder to get the cuff to remain pressed correctly with less. [whoops must read thread before posting]

Though i guess you could just put in a 1/4" fold and stitch the fold in place. That would kind of give the effect f a cuff

bk

I have toyed with the idea of sewing in a strip of fabric to give a false cuff shape and more weight. Anyone ever do that?