Please Explain High End Selvedge Jeans to Me

[majormajor]

My issue is the rear rise, I facking hate low rise jeans, i'll get em if I can get some kinda info on the backside.

Hi Simon

The newest jeans I have (which I guess you mixed up with these) are Lee 1934 131Bs. These are wide/straight legged, and pretty high-waisted. They are completely different to the cheap 101Zs that Schitz (or "w*nk*r, as we now affectionately call him) wears.

As you requested in the other thread, I will measure the rise in the back for you

 

[Alistar79]

The fit on you is my kind of fit schitz. I'll be wearing these jeans with my red wing chukkas or loake brogue boots come the autumn.
You know since visiting this forum over the last few of months i've bought three jackets and these jeans all for colder days.
Even though we in britain have yet to see the summer am actually already looking forward to the winter!!!!!!
I never used to be this way what the hell has happened to me????

 

[schitzo]

Here's some dimensions Simon, minus the one you're asking for :eusa_doh:
http://www.oipolloi.com/lee-101-z-dry-23oz-indigo-denim

I just measured the rear rise on my size 32s for you and its just over 15"


@ Alistair, don't worry my man I've a feeling the UK climate will not let you down!

 

[Mr Badger]

^ after a little snooping around they are sanforized so they won't shrink so buy your size. My issue is the rear rise I bloody hate crack flashers, so I want to know how high/low they are against 501xx

In my experience, hand-washing Lee 101s and Wrangler Blue Bell reissues, the sanforized denim doesn't seem to shrink much 'widthways' (i.e. round the waist, thigh, etc), and if it does the left-hand twill (Lee) / broken twill (Wrangler) means they soon stretch back to the prior measurement with wear. However, despite the sanforization, there's a noticeable shrinkage in the leg length, which may be an issue for some and, of course, that doesn't tend to 'reverse' itself... but the shrinkage is nothing compared to the LVC stuff!

 

[majormajor]

In my experience, hand-washing Lee 101s and Wrangler Blue Bell reissues, the sanforized denim doesn't seem to shrink much 'widthways' (i.e. round the waist, thigh, etc), and if it does the left-hand twill (Lee) / broken twill (Wrangler) means they soon stretch back to the prior measurement with wear. However, despite the sanforization, there's a noticeable shrinkage in the leg length, which may be an issue for some and, of course, that doesn't tend to 'reverse' itself... but the shrinkage is nothing compared to the LVC stuff!

I'm with you on the Lees, Mr B, although I find it tends to affect the 23oz ones more than the 14oz ones (they do, after all, have more to lose when washed - although many would disagree).

As you say, any shrinkage on the waist will be pushed back out by your gut if too tight after washing. Other than attaching weights to the bottom hem, there is no way to apply the same stretch to the leg length

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

Washing in 30c and stretching the legs damp works. If once washed in 60c they shrink alot and cant be stretched out again.

 

[majormajor]

Washing in 30c and stretching the legs damp works. If once washed in 60c they shrink alot and cant be stretched out again.

The dry "stretching" takes place when fibres tightened up by the heat are stretched out - purely by pressure from your body. That is, of course, assuming that the waist is now too tight. If it is not tight, it will not be subject to pressure, and will NOT stretch again.

As I said, applying the same steady, sustained stretch to the legs of dry/washed jeans is just about impossible

 

[Mr Badger]

The dry As I said, applying the same steady, sustained stretch to the legs of dry/washed jeans is just about impossible

Too true! My LVC 1933s, which weren't at all oversized when 'dry', as the Lee and Edwin selvedge jeans usually are, shrank a good two inches in the leg and two around the waist, even washing 'em in stone cold water with only a little 'soap free' travel wash! Consequently, they went from a quite generous mid-rise with a little cuff to low-rise with no cuff (but still the crease marks from same!) – they don't get brought out too often now... my Wrangler Blue Bells, which are sanforized, shrank a good two inches in length after the same washing treatment, while the waist didn't shrink at all and remained at least two inches bigger than the tagged size! Tried stretching the legs on both pairs, in a futile attempt to keep 'em wearable, but it didn't work and they're deffo 'beaters' now, only fit to wear with boots not shoes, and sweatshirts rather than shirts as they're just too low on my waist... be warned, folks! :eusa_doh:

 

[RegentSt1965]

Popped for a pair, seems a good bet and a low(ish) risk way of trying heavy denim before shelling out for Ironheart/Pike Bros etc. I've already tried a pair on in American Classics, but even allowing for the over-size on these 101z s , thereir largest size at the time, a 32 was a bit optimistic. I note that theyere is a rear patch difference to the Oi Polloi item. Not too worried about that in itself - just hope that they are the same in other respects.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Yes, always buy them several inches (like 6 inches, minimum) too long in the leg!

Consequently, they went from a quite generous mid-rise with a little cuff to low-rise with no cuff (but still the crease marks from same!) – they don't get brought out too often now... my Wrangler Blue Bells, which are sanforized, shrank a good two inches in length after the same washing treatment, while the waist didn't shrink at all and remained at least two inches bigger than the tagged size! Tried stretching the legs on both pairs, in a futile attempt to keep 'em wearable, but it didn't work and they're deffo 'beaters' now, only fit to wear with boots not shoes, and sweatshirts rather than shirts as they're just too low on my waist... be warned, folks! :eusa_doh:

 

[schitzo]

I note that theyere is a rear patch difference to the Oi Polloi item. Not too worried about that in itself - just hope that they are the same in other respects.

Good eyes RegentSt, I wonder what that's all about. I've seen a few pairs of the 23ozers and none have a patch like that. Perhaps asos have the wrong photo up?

 

[RegentSt1965]

Price seems funny too, Oi Polloi has £210 full price, Assos £300 RRP (sic). Also, I couldn't find it by a site search, so relied on the FL link. Anyway, they have a pretty good (I believe) returns policy if it goes t*tsup. I'll post when I get them.

 

[Alistar79]

I note that theyere is a rear patch difference to the Oi Polloi item. Not too worried about that in itself - just hope that they are the same in other respects.[/QUOTE]

One will have to wait and see. Hey Schitzo did you say your a 32 leg? If so do they fit like a true 32?

 

[schitzo]

One will have to wait and see. Hey Schitzo did you say your a 32 leg? If so do they fit like a true 32?

Yes I am, yes they are

 

[injunjack]

Yep, when buying denim that shrinks... always check if it shrinks TO tagged size or FROM tagged size.

Levis shrinks from tagged size and needs to be bought approx 2 sizes big and long enough...
Sugar Canes 1947 501's for example shrink to tagged size...as do IronHearts...

Before buying, do your homework

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

[video]https://vimeo.com/68504363[/video]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[Sloan1874]

Have any of you tried Gustin?

https://www.weargustin.com/store

I have 2 pairs, with another on the way. I think it's a good deal, and there are quite a few denim options there.

Cheers for the tip, Siddhartha. Put in for a pair of slim fits in green weft. They go damn quick. I'd backed the run at midnight, with four more backers still needed, but when I got up this morning I'd received an email saying that it had reached its target number. Seems a bargain and a half to me.

 

[Boyo]

Have any of you tried Gustin?

https://www.weargustin.com/store

I have 2 pairs, with another on the way. I think it's a good deal, and there are quite a few denim options there.

As of today, Gustin has added shirts to their line-up.. An Oxford and a selvedge chambray

 

[siddhartha]

And those shirts sold out in half a day, but I hear they just added another one...

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

I wanted the green weft, but was very uncertain how they would look after wear. Really cool you got them, you gotta post pics after wear so I can hide in regrettable shame