Please Explain High End Selvedge Jeans to Me

[OneEyeMan]

I've basically worn Levis 505's or Lee straight cut jeans my whole life.
I don't think I've ever spent more than $35 for a pair.
They fit great, look great, and last for years.
I just don't get spending hundreds of dollars for a pair of jeans.
And I still don't get what makes "selvedge" denim that much better.
Isn't it just denim with a sewn edge?
Plus, there's so much discussion on how to wash or not wash them, how to soak them to remove
starch, weight, etc.
I just cut the tags off and wear mine till dirty, then wash if needed.
I'm not trying to stir up trouble here, but I honestly don't get what the big deal is.
Lenny

 

[majormajor]

I've basically worn Levis 505's or Lee straight cut jeans my whole life.
I don't think I've ever spent more than $35 for a pair.
They fit great, look great, and last for years.
I just don't get spending hundreds of dollars for a pair of jeans.
And I still don't get what makes "selvedge" denim that much better.
Isn't it just denim with a sewn edge?
Plus, there's so much discussion on how to wash or not wash them, how to soak them to remove
starch, weight, etc.
I just cut the tags off and wear mine till dirty, then wash if needed.
I'm not trying to stir up trouble here, but I honestly don't get what the big deal is.
Lenny

Good for you, OneEye. A few billion others do exactly the same as you. I guess you could say the same about any item of clothing. That's why Primark exists.

Same with Leather Jackets. Why pay £600 when a nice Mall Special can be had for £99??

In fact, why have a site like this at all??????:eeek::eeek::eeek::eusa_doh::eusa_doh::eusa_doh:[huh][huh]

And I still don't get what makes "selvedge" denim that much better.
Isn't it just denim with a sewn edge?

Short answer - no it isn't. Just the opposite

 

[pipvh]

Selvedge jeans are just jeans as they used to be made, before flimsy cloth, Third World sweatshops, synthetic indigo and vast markups even on a £30 pair of trousers, and before brands became more important than quality.

 

[nick123]

I shared your sentiments until recent. Believe me, a pair of raw/selvedge jeans look infinitely better. And the whole selling point is that they age/patina very well.

 

[OneEyeMan]

I'd be interested in trying a pair of selvedge jeans just to see what they're about first hand.
Is it possible to get a quality pair for under $50?
Where?
Lenny

 

[bretron]

Not all selvage is made of the same quality, nor are all high-end jeans manufacturers. BUT until you handle a pair of say momotaro or flat head jeans and compare them to your gap "selvage" jeans, you probably will never be convinced there's a difference- or find sound justification to spend 10x the price. Next time you're near a shop like Self Edge or Blue in Green, etc, stop in and see for yourself

I'm not a guy that likes to spend too much on shirts simply because I sweat and stain them to their demise. But jeans, boots and jackets just get better with age and are an investment IMO.

 

[majormajor]

On some of the guitar sites I inhabit, a question like "Can I buy a Gibson for 99 dollars" would now be attracting accusations of Trolling. Ah well. Keep the "interested" questions coming.

 

[schitzo]

if you get some heavyweight selvage jeans - we're talking 21oz and upwards - you'll end up with a pair of jeans that cannot be compared to any of those regular ones you just mentioned. Comfort, fit and appearance are unparalleled and those jeans will, like Bretron says, only get better and better with time

I think buying a horsehide jacket from a premium maker instead of a buying a flimsy lightweight cheap cow hide piece of tat from the market for $99 is a fairly apt analogy.

If you do buy a heavyweight pair, which would be primarily for the colder months, I predict you'll never go back. Do it man! You deserve the best

 

[bretron]

Why drink Laphroaig when there's Old Crow? Ain't a Salisbury steak a "steak"? ;P

 

[OneEyeMan]

Guys, I'm not saying there's no difference.
I just want to know what the differences are.
I bought an Aero FQHH jacket instead of mall garbage so I do appreciate quality and the greater cost associated with it.
How much should I expect to pay for entry level good quality selvedge jeans?
Lenny

 

[schitzo]

Guys, I'm not saying there's no difference.
I just want to know what the differences are.
I bought an Aero FQHH jacket instead of mall garbage so I do appreciate quality and the greater cost associated with it.
How much should I expect to pay for entry level good quality selvedge jeans?
Lenny

Forget entry level, it's a waste of time and money. Figure out what fit you like and buy a heavyweight one in that type of cut. When you get them they'll feel like cardboard but they'll very quickly wear in, with the denim conforming to your shape. In no time at all they'll become the most comfortable jeans you own. Also, they'll start to show fadings along the stress points which will enhance the overall look. More wear will lead to more fades and so they're only going to get better. I've heard that washing them also strengthens the fibres, and so if that's correct, then as well as aesthetically improving, they'll also get stronger in time

 

[majormajor]

I've heard that washing them also strengthens the fibres, and so if that's correct, then as well as aesthetically improving, they'll also get stronger in time

Schitz, that idea is just a about on a level with "It's OK for adults to wear Crocs".

Washing WILL soften denim fibres, rendering 23oz jeans just the same as 14oz after half a dozen washes.

 

[ButteMT61]

If you have a more common size, you might be able to pick up a used pair on eBay. You have to see them and try them on. I'd say 19oz is where the real differences start, then they go 21, 23, 25, etc.
Look on the Bay. Check out Flat Head, Iron Heart, etc. You'll still be spending way more than a pair of Levi's or Lees or Wranglers, but you can also re-sell them if you're not convinced.

 

[rocketeer]

OK chaps and maybe chapess's. You have lost me, what does 21oz signify? I guess an amount of cloth but how much, and how would you know what the weight was? I'm afraid I am one of those people that appreciates good quality items such as leather jackets and even jeans but with me it is all about how they look.

What I am getting at is I would rather have a pair of poorer quality jeans that I look ok in[Lets say modern 501s] than a replica 1930s pair with big baggy legs that are top quality that I look crap in. But! If a good maker made the jeans I looked good in, in a better quality fabric, how would I know.
Confused? not as confused as I am on how to put this.
J

 

[schitzo]

Schitz, that idea is just a about on a level with "It's OK for adults to wear Crocs".

Washing WILL soften denim fibres, rendering 23oz jeans just the same as 14oz after half a dozen washes.

Crocs are out there, people like them and they aren't going away! Deal with it


But if 6 washes makes 23oz jeans the same as 14ouncers then what does six washes do to 14oz jeans?

Also, given that you've never owned 23oz jeans (as in your own words when you looked at them you agreed with Holly they're ridiculous) how do you know this!?

 

[bretron]

3sixteens cost about $200, and are 14oz jp good stuff; great entry level brand. Don't bother with APC in my opinion (made in Macao) . You can also regularly find american made from jp selvage RRLs for about $100 on ebay.

 

[schitzo]

OK chaps and maybe chapess's. You have lost me, what does 21oz signify? I guess an amount of cloth but how much, and how would you know what the weight was? I'm afraid I am one of those people that appreciates good quality items such as leather jackets and even jeans but with me it is all about how they look.

What I am getting at is I would rather have a pair of poorer quality jeans that I look ok in[Lets say modern 501s] than a replica 1930s pair with big baggy legs that are top quality that I look crap in. But! If a good maker made the jeans I looked good in, in a better quality fabric, how would I know.
Confused? not as confused as I am on how to put this.
J

Rocketeer, whatever you're preferred fit is, if you look around you can find a good pair of heavyweight denim in that style. I assure you they will look better. But ultimately you're just gonan have to take the plunge I suppose, aren't you.

All I'd add is, if you do get a pair don't be put off by how they are when they arrive. Within just a few days they'll be feeling like regular jeans and you'll be (I predict) very pleased with your buy

 

[majormajor]

Crocs are out there, people like them and they aren't going away! Deal with it


But if 6 washes makes 23oz jeans the same as 14ouncers then what does six washes do to 14oz jeans?

Also, given that you've never owned 23oz jeans (as in your own words when you looked at them you agreed with Holly they're ridiculous) how do you know this!?

Probably difficult for you to get your head round, my friend, but I actually have lots of friends with whom I discuss denim with, face to face.

In fact, I am sitting right next to a guy, in the pub, who is wearing Iron Hearts. He agrees that after a few months, the extra "body" has simply washed out. The rest of us are wearing 12/14oz of similar or older vintage. Absolutely NO difference.

You can fool some of the people all of the time.......

 

[schitzo]

Probably difficult for you to get your head round, my friend, but I actually have lots of friends with whom I discuss denim with, face to face.

In fact, I am sitting right next to a guy, in the pub, who is wearing Iron Hearts. He agrees that after a few months, the extra "body" has simply washed out. The rest of us are wearing 12/14oz of similar or older vintage. Absolutely NO difference.

You can fool some of the people all of the time.......

fyi friend, the extra body is not the desirable part. But even if it was, you could maintain that by following the wash instructions which in the case of my 101s say dry clean only. Ya dig? I didn't wash my 23oz Lees for 8 months cos a) they didn't really need a wash in our 5 month long winter since I didn't sweat, and b) the dry cleaning they had took care of that

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Not being an afficianado, I must ask: extra "body"? The weight differences being noted above are not due to more cotton per square metre, but down to some kind of filler? This would disturb me inordinately, suggesting that the heavy weight was no more than a gimmick, and that if you want to maintain the weight you need to wear a pair of jeans that stinks of ass? [EDIT: yes, or dry cleaned] (if it's not washed, this is what happens - hang around enough rockabilly types in their unwashed jeans and see what I mean).

If the extra weight/square metre is due to more cotton per square metre, how on earth does it "wash out"? if it's not, why don't they just weave the stuff in a heavier weight?