Planning my first jacket

[scurvyfreedman]

No problems zipping up whatsoever, but i can imagine how a Brooks style flap coule be a pain.
Regarding the brass, honestly it doesn't take that long for the gold look to go away.

Look at this, real brass that has dulled on the left, weird gold platting that never dulls on the right.
Personally i think that the dull brass on the left looks much better than the weird brown of the aged brass.

Definitely looks more toned down. I'm sure years of use will age it nicely.

 

[handymike]

Solid brass is the way to go on a dark brown jacket! But check that the zippers and pullers are real brass first.

 

[Carlos840]

Definitely looks more toned down. I'm sure years of use will age it nicely.

Also, keep in mind that the wind flap is only useful if you ride.
In everyday life you will never have wind strong enough to make it through the zipper.
It's only on a naked bike above 50mph that you need one, otherwise wind gets in through the zipper and you get a baloon back.
IMO there is someting to be sait about the simplicity and clean lines of a center zip without a windflap.

If i was designing a riding jacket i would definitely add a windflap.
For a walking jacket i would not.
Unless you just want it for the looks.

 

[Peacoat]

I agree with @Carlos840. My Sheene doesn't have a windflap as I don't use the Sheene for riding. No need for it.

 

[AeroFan_07]

I also agree with the points made above. Actual bright brass (at the start) will rather quickly darken down with use, and this is something you will use a lot - right?

I also agree with the windflap comments, although I get into very windy days here in Iowa (40+ MPH at times) it's still not enough to need a windflap. I no longer ride, so no need. If I did ride I would request snap-down collar as well.

 

[Finn Vigorous]

Welcome to the forum. A Sheene in Dark Seall Vicenza is a great choice and I think would suit your purposes.

I'm a Sheene owner myself and agree with most of the points raised above.

My spec list:

-no kidney panels, no gussets, no windflap - no actual need for those if not riding (gussets slightly debatable)

-no contrast stitching - simply not a fan of the aesthetics; makes the jacket look a bit busy and catches the attention away from where it should be imo, on the cut and hide

-no faux patina brass hardware - normal brass ages quickly and is shiny only for the first weeks

-would never give up the chest pockets in a Cafe Racer (based) model - the pockets are in the DNA of these jackets, and there are plenty of other models with clean chest area, if that's what's really wanted

-cotton drill lining - for the reasons already stated

Edit. typos

 

[antoine p]

slightly off topic request here...

can someone upload a picture of their aged brass hardware?

below is a photo of an original "blackened brass" zipper on a G-1 from the early 60s. you can see that most of the blackening has worn off on the paperclip pull, but the zip, catch and teeth still have the effect. i personally think this looks good. but is this what aero's hardware is emulating? or are they going for something else?

 

[zebedee]

Aero's 'aged' brass against brown FQHH. Jacket is 10 years old with no zipper replacements:

 

[zebedee]

I'd agree with the choice of cotton drill as a lining- it lasts longer than tartan. External chest pockets are really down to preference- they's practical enough for phone or sunglasses, but (IMHO) a jacket without one can be more easily smartened up. I have a goat 50s HB without one- the jacket does look more plain, but it's not period-inaccurate to not have an outer chest pocket. The Levis Menlo doesn't have one, and looks just fine. No idea about wind flaps...

 

[Carlos840]

slightly off topic request here...

can someone upload a picture of their aged brass hardware?

below is a photo of an original "blackened brass" zipper on a G-1 from the early 60s. you can see that most of the blackening has worn off on the paperclip pull, but the zip, catch and teeth still have the effect. i personally think this looks good. but is this what aero's hardware is emulating? or are they going for something else?

To me the aged brass is more like fake patina than blackened brass.
I agree that what you have posted looks good, but it is very different from what aged brass looks like.
It reminds me of these fake brass lightswitches and light fixtures, it doesn't look like actual old brass, i really don't like it.

 

[navetsea]

it might not matter for a darker jacket, but brass would stain surrounding leather black or greenish black in short time, at least that's what happen to my natural belt and wristband, antiqued brass while I agree looks fake, but if the surface is small enough I think it looks OK and more stable, since the black antiquing paint is protecting the metal somewhat, and with use it will show the lighter part sometime it is real brass underneath (cool), sometime copper (pleasant surprise), sometime bluish steel (corrode a little bit), sometime silvery metal (yuck)

 

[MrProper]

11 years old Aero

 

[Fifty150]

really interesting to know the function of different aspects of the jacket

some people have remarked on the appearance of other parts of a jacket......

The windflap is functional. On a bike, you can actually feel the wind blowing in at freeway speed, if you don't have a windflap. On some jackets, like an A-2, it's on the exterior covering the zipper. Buttons under the collar prevent wind from blowing the collar up into your face. Some prefer a buckled collar to cinch right so that wind doesn't blow in from the neckline. Popular feature on modern jackets is the holster pocket. Some people use it to carry a concealed firearm.

 

[navetsea]

I get it that wind flap under the zipper will block frontal wind against chest, but if the point is to deflect wind (or rain water) then outer flap works much better not only because it is deflecting it before it even enter the zipper but also self sealing from wind pressure itself, while inner flap under the zipper is counter productive in my opinion,the wind is already under the zipper inside the jacket, and continuous wind keep rushing in so it cant disperse back through the zipper, so it has to find another way to escape, either into the jacket, or under the chin, or toward the bottom, and from the constant pressure it will not seal unless the jacket is tight fit.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Is the wind flap really that helpful? Personally I think if you're going to wear the jacket unzipped at all, I would do without it. It looks much worse IMO with it than without it unzipped and I would be surprised if it made much of a difference vs. just wearing a thicker layer underneath.

 

[Finn Vigorous]

^My thoughts exactly.

One more thing about windflap is related to the zippers used and the construction of zip area. Aero, for instance, uses rather small/narrow zips which are stitched inside the 'zipper channel' in a way that they are barely visible. This technique has its obvious cons but, and especially when not riding, blocks wind nicely and much better than large and visible zips.

 

[Carlos840]

Is the wind flap really that helpful? Personally I think if you're going to wear the jacket unzipped at all, I would do without it. It looks much worse IMO with it than without it unzipped and I would be surprised if it made much of a difference vs. just wearing a thicker layer underneath.

It's only helpful if you can walk at motorway speeds...
Once you reach motorway speed it does make a massive difference.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

It's only helpful if you can walk at motorway speeds...
Once you reach motorway speed it does make a massive difference.

Wait, so it does or doesn't make a difference? Sorry for my confusion.

 

[Carlos840]

Wait, so it does or doesn't make a difference? Sorry for my confusion.

It does make a massive difference, but only once you get up to speed of 50-60mph and you don't have a windshield to deflect the wind over you.
When riding without a windshield or a windflap, wind will push through the zipper and your back will turn into a giant flopping baloon, it creates a lot of wind drag and ruins your stability, you will also freeze within minutes.
Because of the the Lewis Leathers Dominator for example is a horrible bike jacket at motorway speeds.

(if you look at modern riding jackets they usually have air vents you can open and close. Most jackets will have them in the front and back. The air that comes in through the front need somewhere to escape from in the back to prevent balooning.)

On foot i have never come across a situation where the wind was strong enought and came at me straight from the front with enough force to do the same thing.

So the answer is yes, if you ride a bike with no windshield at motorway speeds it will make a huge difference.
If you don't ride a naked bike you will most likely never have a need for a windflap.

 

[Peacoat]

I get it that wind flap under the zipper will block frontal wind against chest, but if the point is to deflect wind (or rain water) then outer flap works much better not only because it is deflecting it before it even enter the zipper but also self sealing from wind pressure itself, while inner flap under the zipper is counter productive in my opinion,the wind is already under the zipper inside the jacket, and continuous wind keep rushing in so it cant disperse back through the zipper, so it has to find another way to escape, either into the jacket, or under the chin, or toward the bottom, and from the constant pressure it will not seal unless the jacket is tight fit.

Theoretical thinking is one thing; practical experience with them is another. Wind flaps work. As you live close to the equator, you will, fortunately, never have to test your theory.

While wind flaps are essential on motorcycles with no windshields, I find they are helpful on motorcycles with windshields as well. On both the fairing and non fairing models I have had, there is enough wind that gets around the windshield that I want wind flaps on all of my riding jackets, especially when the temps are in the 50s and below.