Photos of hatters tools

[humanshoes]

Not old hat at all, John. I'm not ashamed to admit how very little I actually know about hat making and am ignorant as to sweatband terminology. I assume the "reed" is the nylon cord inside the black base of the sweatband which I would call the "foot", perhaps incorrectly. I thought it would be as simple as buying a reeded leather sweatband, cutting it to size, and sewing it in. It appears I may be wrong. Please enlighten me if you have time. Thanks.

 

[John Galt]

Great! That's how we learn, and I learned this here too, so fair's fair.

Here's the reed. It's got to be removed before cutting the sweat in order to leave about 1/2 inch as shown.

After the ferrule is attached, you've got extra reeding.

When this is pulled tight with a few stitches, the reed opens up, flaring the sweat out as discussed.

Frankly, this one could have had a little more flare.

Props to TheDane, Brad, and a couple of others for explaining this to me a while back.




"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[humanshoes]

Thank you very much, John. I've made at least two mistakes. Number one: I cut through the reed. Number two: I have no ferrules. I placed an order with Leko last week and what with the $60 minimum I can't see building an order just to get ferrules. Is there a place where I can just buy ferrules with no order minimum? Also, can I buy reeding to save this butchered sweatband. I have a supply of sweatbands so I can always just use a fresh one. Live and learn, and again, I really appreciate you and TheDane sharing your knowledge.

 

[TheDane]

Try and call Jim at JWHats - or there is Judith M

 

[humanshoes]

Thanks a million, TheDane. I'll do just that and I appreciate the help.

 

[John Galt]

Yes, JW does not require bulk purchases, just loyalty, which he earns...

I've been laid up with the flu and haven't made it to the garage this weekend to do a woodwork project, but finally felt good enough to spend 1/2 hour on my brim binding. To return to the hatter's tools theme, this sewing & knitting gauge is invaluable!

I also carefully chose a very close matching thread, used only a single strand, and made small stitches. Should be done in several more hours, but if I can keep it at this quality, I'm satisfied, and it will be time well spent.

JG


Top:

Bottom:

Gauge:

"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[John Galt]

Thank you very much, John. I've made at least two mistakes. Number one: I cut through the reed. Number two: I have no ferrules. I placed an order with Leko last week and what with the $60 minimum I can't see building an order just to get ferrules. Is there a place where I can just buy ferrules with no order minimum? Also, can I buy reeding to save this butchered sweatband. I have a supply of sweatbands so I can always just use a fresh one. Live and learn, and again, I really appreciate you and TheDane sharing your knowledge.

No worries, that's what this forum is about, from my perspective. I made the same mistakes. I also cut through a reed last week by inadvertence. For a makeshift ferrule on your first build, you might try heat shrink wire sealing tubing. I know it comes in appropriate sizes and it would probably hold, just be careful not to singe the hat.

When you do buy ferrules, make sure you don't get the large brass millinery style. I have a dozen I cannot use. JW's ferrules are good, and Leko's are ok, but JW's sweats are far superior to hers, and he's got no minimum order.

Here's a comparison shot:

"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[TheDane]

Should be done in several more hours, but if I can keep it at this quality, I'm satisfied, and it will be time well spent

Great to hear, you're feeling better. That binding is absolutely one of the best I have seen for a long time. Better than much professional work I've seen. Keep up the good work, John

 

[Mr.Astor]

John- beautiful work on the brim ribbon! One question did you wash ribbon first? No! 2 questions sorry. Did you iron ribbon before applying it to the brim? If you apply ribbon on brim than steam ribbon will it establish a snap to brim? Thank's in advance! Your sewing skills are enviable. Also your home town is where one of my favorite beers is manufactured Sierra Nevada pale ale!

 

[John Galt]

Great to hear, you're feeling better. That binding is absolutely one of the best I have seen for a long time. Better than much professional work I've seen. Keep up the good work, John

Thank you so much!

It takes time do do this, but I have always believed "that which encumbers the body frees the mind," when it comes to repetitive tasks.

I was also inspired by the old time hat trimming ladies and also by Hatter4, who still does all of his work by hand. After pondering the issue at length, I came to the conclusion that I am much more the master of my own hands than I am at any sewing machine (or really any other tool), and that I would therefore do well to put my trust in them. Also, the error rate necessarily multiplies with the complexity of any system, and I haven't got the time right now to develop the new skills needed to correct for that dynamic.

(I may be overthinking this ;-)

Anyway, many thanks!


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[Hatter4]

John: Thank you for the compliment. I appreciate it. And you did nice work.

 

[John Galt]

John- beautiful work on the brim ribbon! One question did you wash ribbon first? No! 2 questions sorry. Did you iron ribbon before applying it to the brim? If you apply ribbon on brim than steam ribbon will it establish a snap to brim? Thank's in advance! Your sewing skills are enviable. Also your home town is where one of my favorite beers is manufactured Sierra Nevada pale ale!

Aw shucks, yer makin me blush ;-)

I wetted the ribbon, pinned it in place & then ironed it. I had not thought carefully about the snap, actually. I began to apply it in the snapped position. I may amend that, as I believe a crisper snap will result from doing so. The ribbon tightened as it dried, and as I ironed it. I'm also constantly measuring and re-measuring and holding it taut as I sew it down. One more thing, I left the ends pinned, but loose, so I can make adjustments & take out slack if necessary. That might be helpful if it turns out the brim up position makes a difference in the snap. Thanks for the reminder there, BTW.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[John Galt]

John: Thank you for the compliment. I appreciate it. And you did nice work.

Thank you, Sir! You are always a gentleman, and an obvious talent. The first characteristic, unfortunately, is in much shorter supply, and therefore the more noteworthy, but that does not diminish the latter.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[humanshoes]

Hello John. Thanks again for all the help and advice. I'm glad you're feeling better. Just had a lengthy phone conversation with JW "just call me JW" at JW Hats and am amazed at how willing he is to share his knowledge and experience with an absolute rookie like me. I was equally amazed when he informed me that these sweatband ferrules are really nothing more than 1/16" x 1/2" roll pins that can be had at any good nut and bolt supply house. Just bought two dozen from my local guy for one dollar. Who knew. Have to pick up the measuring tool you're using. Another great tip!

 

[John Galt]

Thanks for sharing, and that goes double for JW. Hope you told him that lawyer in Chico referred you. He won't recognize the name "John Galt" as me . Gonna stop by my local nut/bolt shop tomorrow.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[John Galt]

Back to theme, a hat measuring tool. Not mine. Does not look like a complicated build at all.

"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[John Galt]

A cool salesman's hat box carrying case. Also not mine and quite expensive.

"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[John Galt]

Another European brim cutter design. This one looks like it would take a standard utility blade. I may buy it, depending on shipping cost.

"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[John Galt]

Final photo for the night. Not really a hatter's tool, but a good idea in any era, and much needed for gents like us. Another pretty basic design.

"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[John Galt]

Have to pick up the measuring tool you're using. Another great tip!

Thanks! I raided my wife's sewing kit, but these are available at any craft store, including the sewing section at Wal-Mart.

Here's another handy tool. I love these very tapered little Gingher scissors & put them on a string...

... so they're always handy. I just wish the finger holes were a tiny bit bigger. The tip is so fine that they can get into very tight spots without fear of unintended consequences.

Their full size counterpart, and a good thimble.

"Faint hat never won fair lady."