Photos of hatters tools

[TheDane]

There is no way to rewire it.

That's hard to believe. There's probably a routed groove on the inside of the sole. Into that groove resistance wire is "glued" with some oven mortar. Before that is done, you should insulate the groove with some mica strips (along the bottom and sides of the groove). Before mounting, the wire should be coiled up on a mandrel - and the overall length of the wire should be determined from the wire's so-called "specific resistance" and it's diameter. It's a lot easier to do than to explain.

An iron like that can always be mended. It's like salvaging a broken hammer. Not much can be wrong, and everything can be fixed. It's essential that you know, what you are doing, though. There are too few hatters in the first place. We shouldn't fool around, electricuting the rest

In my catalog from the early 50s, the iron was $25 - and a replacement element (also used to upgrade a non-electric shell-iron) was $7.50. They also supplied electric irons and shackels for felted edge, btw.

 

[John Galt]

It appears to me in your photos John that the material on the block is fiberglass matting covered with epoxy

I am actually convinced that they are covered with woven straw hat bodies. The patterns vary block to block, and there is no uniformity of pattern that comes with something like a mass-produced fiberglass webbing as used for bone casting. I believe these coverings are what they appear to be - "Panama" style weaved hat bodies. I do agree that they appear to be epoxy-coated, and that they certainly are epoxied to the base of each block.

Aside from what I actually see when I look at these, this also makes a lot of sense. Hat bodies would be readily available for the company, and were already appropriately shaped for the purpose.

I am away, or would post more pics to demonstrate.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[John Galt]

Ok, finally got a brim cutter a few mins ago. Sorry fellas, if we were competing, but if it helps, I did it with my own fingers, not a bidding robot. Too bad it wasn't scribed JBS.

"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[John Galt]

I plan to build some after I get my hands on it.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[TheDane]

I wasn't bidding, so you got me neither by trigger-finger nor by drone. Congratulations

 

[RBH]

I am actually convinced that they are covered with woven straw hat bodies. The patterns vary block to block, and there is no uniformity of pattern that comes with something like a mass-produced fiberglass webbing as used for bone casting. I believe these coverings are what they appear to be - "Panama" style weaved hat bodies. I do agree that they appear to be epoxy-coated, and that they certainly are epoxied to the base of each block.

Aside from what I actually see when I look at these, this also makes a lot of sense. Hat bodies would be readily available for the company, and were already appropriately shaped for the purpose.

I am away, or would post more pics to demonstrate.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

That is exactly what the blocks are covered with.
Straw hat bodies.

 

[TheDane]

At least I have noticed, that wearing straw prevents the heat from being too hard on my own "block"

A fingerblocker really gives the blocks a beating, and I could well imagine, that the straw can prolong the life of the block considerable. If you have the straw-bodies inhouse - and some may have smaller flaws - it may be a quite reasonable solution. Even though it can seem an expensive solution at first glance.

 

[John Galt]

Thanks Ole! I just noticed it doesn't have the brass plate on it - guess that's easily remedied...


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[Hatter4]

John, Good luck with the rounding jack, I know you waited a long time to find one.

 

[John Galt]

John, Good luck with the rounding jack, I know you waited a long time to find one.

Thanks. I had hoped to use it for a directional brim on an Indy hat, but it seems to only cut shorter in front and wider on the sides rather than the opposite. The dimensions I am after are 1/8 narrower on the sides that the front. I am not missing anything am I?


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[Brad Bowers]

Thanks. I had hoped to use it for a directional brim on an Indy hat, but it seems to only cut shorter in front and wider on the sides rather than the opposite. The dimensions I am after are 1/8 narrower on the sides that the front. I am not missing anything am I?

No, thats the way it's designed to work. The thumbscrew adjustments are for use on Derbies and Homburgs, which are considerably wider on the sides of the brim to account for the curl. I don't know how you could use them to make an Indy-style dimensional brim.

 

[T Jones]

Thanks. I had hoped to use it for a directional brim on an Indy hat, but it seems to only cut shorter in front and wider on the sides rather than the opposite. The dimensions I am after are 1/8 narrower on the sides that the front. I am not missing anything am I?


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

I wish that would have worked. You may have to resort to making a template and cutting it by hand with a utility knife to get the brim dimensions you need. 2 3/4 front and back, 2 5/8 on the sides.

 

[John Galt]

That is what I shall do!


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[TheDane]

T Jones: Your mailbox is full, friend

John: I don't like the solution, but in "the old book" he shows two "jaws" of wood, placed one on each side of the hat - and tied together with strings round the front and back of the crown. He demonstrates it as an alternative to an adjustable jack ... but as Brad points out, for stiffs and homburgs (= directional the "wrong" way). I guess, you would be able to use two such "jaws", if you rotated them 90°, so you have one "jaw" in front and one in the back.

Other suggestions: Cut it with a jack and cut down the sides, freehand. Or somehow draw the cutline on the brim and cut it all with a knife or a pair of scissors. In any case, pounce yourself backwards but bravely out of any problems

Factories and some hatters have different brim finishing machines. Some for brushing/polishing, some for curling/welting and some for cutting. Sometimes the hat rotates, and sometimes the tool rotates around the hat, while more or less ingenious lever and gear systems keep the tool in the required place and angle. A search through old American patents will bring forward an array of interesting drawings, some of which would sell for fortunes ... as steampunk gadgets! I actually think Major Moore got one from Langenberg, but I'm not sure.

 

[T Jones]

T Jones: Your mailbox is full, friend

I emptied out my mailbox. I should be good to go! Thanks buddy!

 

[John Galt]

I bought a $12 wool campaign hat that was stiff with lacquer & reblocked it on the same block as TJ's hat. I'm going to cut the brim to the larger dimension and then trim it by hand as you suggested, TD. I will then cut the crown out of it and use it for a template. This gives me a practice hat and a template for the exacto.


"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[Landman]

These are some nice brim cutters. They are very simple to use but they won't really help with turning a regular brim into a dimensional brim since they follow the brim edge. They are great though for just shortening a brim.

https://www.hawkeyetack.com/M-and-F-Brim-Cutter-01002.html

 

[Hatter4]

what do you used for blades in your rounding jack?

 

[John Galt]

Hatter4, the two I have use a carbon steel blade that is sharpened with a file. Both are vintage, and the same blade fits both (only one had a blade). I will either replace with the same type of blade or a narrow exacto blade.

"Faint hat never won fair lady."

 

[John Galt]

It looks a lot like a sharpened metal collar stay...


"Faint hat never won fair lady."