Photos of hatters tools

[humanshoes]

Thank you! I have a strong desire to try to put them to use (although not entirely capable at this point).

Should the day arise where they need a new home, I will be sure to reach out!

You have my support. The world needs more hatter's!

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

My binding attachment should be adjustable for different ribbon widths, I don't have it yet as I just put the order in last week. But I sent them the picture below of what I was looking for.

View attachment 112680

The welting attachment is the one that I already have.

I have learned that the attachment in the image in my previous post IS NOT a replica for the original Singer attachment used in brim binding. Rather it is an interpretation of a binding attachment.

A couple of weeks ago I received my replica of a Singer binding attachment from Tennessee Attachment Co. (TAC), and was surprised that it was different than the photo I previously shared. So some conversation with both @Art Fawcett and TAC is how I learned of the differences. The replica attachment offers more features and finer control. I have not used it as I just got it mounted late last night. Finding appropriate mounting screws has been a challenge on these old machines since Singer used a proprietary thread count back in the day. TAC did send me screws but the head was tool large and part of the attachment that slides the work end toward or away from the foot wouldn't work. I was willing to grind them down but after much investigation I ended up make the trip into Seattle to an industrial sewing machine repair shop (C.H. Holderby Co.) and they had screws that were perfect.

Without further ado...this is my new replica Singer brim binding attachment.

On the left side there are two rounded over tipped arms that are independently adjustable for different ribbon widths but also you can adjust the top to be more or less than the bottom but you likely would only ever want the top to be slightly less than the bottom arm. In fact I was instructed by TAC that once I found the mid-point for the ribbon width that the bottom should be 1/32nd larger and the top 1/32nd smaller because as you go around the brim you are likely to lose width from the bottom and that helps to ensure that you are still sewing through two layers of ribbon.

 

[Art Fawcett]

Looks great CVW

 

[humanshoes]

I have learned that the attachment in the image in my previous post IS NOT a replica for the original Singer attachment used in brim binding. Rather it is an interpretation of a binding attachment.

A couple of weeks ago I received my replica of a Singer binding attachment from Tennessee Attachment Co. (TAC), and was surprised that it was different than the photo I previously shared. So some conversation with both @Art Fawcett and TAC is how I learned of the differences. The replica attachment offers more features and finer control. I have not used it as I just got it mounted late last night. Finding appropriate mounting screws has been a challenge on these old machines since Singer used a proprietary thread count back in the day. TAC did send me screws but the head was tool large and part of the attachment that slides the work end toward or away from the foot wouldn't work. I was willing to grind them down but after much investigation I ended up make the trip into Seattle to an industrial sewing machine repair shop (C.H. Holderby Co.) and they had screws that were perfect.

Without further ado...this is my new replica Singer brim binding attachment.


View attachment 127558
On the left side there are two rounded over tipped arms that are independently adjustable for different ribbon widths but also you can adjust the top to be more or less than the bottom but you likely would only ever want the top to be slightly less than the bottom arm. In fact I was instructed by TAC that once I found the mid-point for the ribbon width that the bottom should be 1/32nd larger and the top 1/32nd smaller because as you go around the brim you are likely to lose width from the bottom and that helps to ensure that you are still sewing through two layers of ribbon. View attachment 127559 View attachment 127560

Okay, I gotta admit I'm just a little bit jealous here. That's a beautiful piece of work. I'm curious to know if you'll be using the "3 step" process to do your bindings?

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

Okay, I gotta admit I'm just a little bit jealous here. That's a beautiful piece of work. I'm curious to know if you'll be using the "3 step" process to do your bindings?

Not sure what the 3 step process is but this is how I plan to do this.

- Using the attachment sew ribbon on to the brim but leaving a 2 inch gap at the back
- Once completed on the machine with the attachment and gap, then trim tails, fold over and cut triangles out to remove some of the bulk.
- Hand baste tails into place
- Hand stitch the ends together (if done right you can almost get them to be invisible)
- Machine stitch (different machine than the 108w20) the remaining opened ribbon
- Remove basting stitches


If I cannot master that, then I will do the closed loop method, hand baste into place, slowly stitch to brim using a home sewing machine (Bernina 830 Record) and then remove the basting stitches.

Doing the closed loop method and machine stitched down in the end may give a better look to and more authentic. I paid a bunch of money for the privilege of answering that question for myself.

 

[humanshoes]

In this video from the Bollman Hat Company, at about the 43:20 mark, they show the 3 step binding process using three different machines. They use the binder first with what appears to be about a 4" gap at the back, then a special bar tack machine to join the binding, then yet another machine to complete the process. I'm practicing this 3 step method with two different machines. First the machine with the binding setup, then joining the tails on a regular machine set for a fine stitch, then back to the binder for finishing. I can't complete this final step without basting that final 4 inches but it's better the basting then sewing the entire brim. Whatever machine they're using in the video for that last step obviously holds the binding perfectly in place with no basting. It's been my plan to contact Bollman to see if they'll share the model numbers of those three machines with me, but I just haven't gotten around to it yet. I have always used the closed loop method, but, as you know, it's a time and labor intensive process and I'd rather get away from it entirely. I still covet your adjustable binding attachment Vito, but for now I'll have to make due with different attachments for each size ribbon.

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

In this video from the Bollman Hat Company, at about the 43:20 mark, they show the 3 step binding process using three different machines. They use the binder first with what appears to be about a 4" gap at the back, then a special bar tack machine to join the binding, then yet another machine to complete the process. I'm practicing this 3 step method with two different machines. First the machine with the binding setup, then joining the tails on a regular machine set for a fine stitch, then back to the binder for finishing. I can't complete this final step without basting that final 4 inches but it's better the basting then sewing the entire brim. Whatever machine they're using in the video for that last step obviously holds the binding perfectly in place with no basting. It's been my plan to contact Bollman to see if they'll share the model numbers of those three machines with me, but I just haven't gotten around to it yet. I have always used the closed loop method, but, as you know, it's a time and labor intensive process and I'd rather get away from it entirely. I still covet your adjustable binding attachment Vito, but for now I'll have to make due with different attachments for each size ribbon.

Thanks for sharing, I do remember seeing that video a couple years back. Those women really know how to trim those hats quickly. My plan is similar just more hand work that I will have to do.

I am pretty lucky for sure with having a vintage 108w20 and having two attachments for it. I have the welting attachment too. I appreciate there are those who appreciate these items. As you know there is a huge investment in time in prefe to get these items.

If you really want to covet a bunch of hatter's tools then take a trip to Medford Oregon and see what @Art Fawcett has in his possession after 20+ plus years of collecting. He had the first heated sandbagger that I had seen in person. The other sandbaggers I had seen we're not setup for heating. He also has a finger blocker that he is renovating (drooling)

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

...It's been my plan to contact Bollman to see if they'll share the model numbers of those three machines with me, but I just haven't gotten around to it yet.

Watching that video again, I believe that the first and third machine are the same. Whatever they are they look the same. So I believe that they are 108w20s both with the binding attachment just the last one used to pick and hold the mostly installed ribbon in place as they close it up. The second machine didn't seem to be a bar tacker but a straight stitch machine and she went forward and backwards a time or two when connecting the tails. I will have think about giving that a try.

 

[BobHufford]

Picked up my first hat-specific steamer. Some age to it, but it makes good steam! Now to find an appropriate reservoir bottle.

 

[humanshoes]

Picked up my first hat-specific steamer. Some age to it, but it makes good steam! Now to find an appropriate reservoir bottle.

Wow! Now that's an oldie, but a goodie. Probably cranks out more steam than the new ones. Great score Bob!

 

[BobHufford]

Wow! Now that's an oldie, but a goodie. Probably cranks out more steam than the new ones. Great score Bob!

Thanks Rick!

 

[humanshoes]

Has anyone ever seen one of these hat luring stoves in person? I'm currently using a hot plate and a small cast iron skillet for the luring process, but I'd love to have one of these little beauties in the shop.

 

[steur]

Has anyone ever seen one of these hat luring stoves in person? I'm currently using a hot plate and a small cast iron skillet for the luring process, but I'd love to have one of these little beauties in the shop.
View attachment 129875

I have never seen one in person and luring is one of the most underestimated aspects of hatmaking that gets overlooked easily I think. There are some hatmaking films that show luring as part of the finishing.
This one about Barbiso shows it, but the device is just behind the hat stand. Seems to be an ordinary hot plate though.

This one is even better: it shows Gottfried Kiniger of Austria making a hat by hand from start to finish (starting by bowing the fur!). The movie shows luring as well. Herr Kiniger just uses his iron to heat up the greased rag he uses for luring.

And this one about Hutfabrik Lembert shows the process as well. Again using what seems to be an ordinary hot plate.

You're in good company!

 

[humanshoes]

I have never seen one in person and luring is one of the most underestimated aspects of hatmaking that gets overlooked easily I think. There are some hatmaking films that show luring as part of the finishing.
This one about Barbiso shows it, but the device is just behind the hat stand. Seems to be an ordinary hot plate though.

This one is even better: it shows Gottfried Kiniger of Austria making a hat by hand from start to finish (starting by bowing the fur!). The movie shows luring as well. Herr Kiniger just uses his iron to heat up the greased rag he uses for luring.

And this one about Hutfabrik Lembert shows the process as well. Again using what seems to be an ordinary hot plate.

You're in good company!

Thanks for the excellent videos steur! I just purchased this old hot plate which closely resembles the hand drawn picture of the gas powered luring stove. I just wanted to get away from the hot plate/cast iron skillet setup. We'll see how it goes.

 

[Frunobulax]

Great videos, Stefan, thanks!


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

 

[humanshoes]

After much searching for woven or printed hat size tag options, I decided to make my own. I finally found some old printer's type fractions that fit into my vintage Franklin hot foil machine and I'm using leather sweatband trimmings for the tags. It's funny that I've been throwing those sweatband scraps in a drawer for years with no real use for them and no idea why I was even saving them. Now I just need to play around with the heat setting to get a crisper imprint.

 

[RJR]

After much searching for woven or printed hat size tag options, I decided to make my own. I finally found some old printer's type fractions that fit into my vintage Franklin hot foil machine and I'm using leather sweatband trimmings for the tags. It's funny that I've been throwing those sweatband scraps in a drawer for years with no real use for them and no idea why I was even saving them. Now I just need to play around with the heat setting to get a crisper imprint.
View attachment 130001

Great idea,Rick,congrats.

 

[humanshoes]

Thanks Bob. I am easily amused by the little things.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

After much searching for woven or printed hat size tag options, I decided to make my own. I finally found some old printer's type fractions that fit into my vintage Franklin hot foil machine and I'm using leather sweatband trimmings for the tags. It's funny that I've been throwing those sweatband scraps in a drawer for years with no real use for them and no idea why I was even saving them. Now I just need to play around with the heat setting to get a crisper imprint.
View attachment 130001

I really like this idea. The frayed edge cloth tags Borsalino uses have been my favorite, but your way looks quite intriguing. A nice touch for custom hats.


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[humanshoes]

I really like this idea. The frayed edge cloth tags Borsalino uses have been my favorite, but your way looks quite intriguing. A nice touch for custom hats.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Brent. At least they'll be an option going forward.