Personal Rules for Vintage Shopping?

[23SkidooWithYou]

Hi ladies,

I tried to search this subject, but it didn't really bring up exactly what I was wondering. If it needs to be elsewhere, no prob if the BT's move it.

Here's my situation...I'm brand spanking new to the world of vintage and I'm flying by the seat of my pants. I "get" some of the looks and enjoy researching anything I'm unsure of but...I'm sort of afraid to make that first clothing purchase. I feel like I have Shoppers ADD..."Oh, that's nice. No, maybe that. Oh, that might fit so I should buy it"...and then I end up with nothing.

For those of you doing this a while, what are your personal guidelines (aka rules of retail engagement) when acquiring vintage?

Do you only buy it if it makes your heart sing?
Do you buy it just because you think it will fit? (especially for difficult sizes like really petite girls or super tall, or larger ladies)
If you like it, but you suspect it might not really be authentic to the time period (eg a vintage revival but from the 80's) do you still get it?
Do you ever fall in love with something you know is too small and get it in hopes of becoming that size?
How disciplined are you to stick within a budget?

I lost a wool 50's suit last night because I hestitated and decided to sleep on it. I'm pretty sure the size was right and the color was conservative (something I like) and the price was perfect but it didn't make my heart sing. Know what I mean? I just couldn't decide! I also missed a Rocket Original sweater on Ebay but it seemed like somebody had an automatic bid in. Once it got nearer to actual retail, I let it go.

 

[C-dot]

Good question! When purchasing vintage (not repro) there are many more things to consider than size and colour. For example, say I run into a really great 40's rayon dress. Here are the questions I will ask myself:

-Is the garment genuine, or is it some 1970's reproduction?
-Check the seams, hemlines, buttons, clasps, and/or or zippers - are they in good repair? If not, can I repair or replace them myself?
-Is the garment stained, burned, or otherwise irreversibley damaged?
-Has it been altered in the past?
-Is it worth the money? Can I push the price down?
-Can I clean and care for the garment easily?
-How often can I wear it (ie. Will it stand daily wear, or only special occasions?)

There are probably more questions to ask, but those are some good basic ones. You must pay attention to details. If the price is steep and the garment needs care, see if the vendor is willing to haggle. If the vendor is trying to hurry you into a purchase, they're probably hiding something. Do not buy clothes that don't fit in hopes of losing weight - Buy clothes that fit you now, especially at vintage prices. Beware of stains and garments needing major care.
And, as always, if you aren't 125% sure you want it, then think about it for a while. Buying under pressure, for fear someone else will get it, is not a good reason to buy. Don't be afraid to hunt for a bargain.

These are my tips - Good luck and happy hunting!

 

[Amy Jeanne]

Learn to sew and you won't have these worries lol

But seriously, when I used to buy my clothes I only bought something that made my heart sing. And if it was in my size. And if it was cheap and in good condition. I only had 4 authentic vintage dresses in my entire life! The rest, I just bought vintage-inspired at the mall.

Now I sew all my own clothes. It's MUCH easier to find patterns in my size than actual vintage dresses! Cheaper, too.

 

[LizzieMaine]

I agree with everything AJ says above.

When I was young and small-waisted I bought a lot more vintage than I do now, because it was a lot easier to find things that fit. And I ended up getting rid of most of it years later because I couldn't wear it any more.

These days, I buy something *if* it fits, *if* it's something I know I'll wear, and *if* I can get it cheap. Otherwise, it's sew sew sew.

 

[23SkidooWithYou]

And, as always, if you aren't 125% sure you want it, then think about it for a while. Buying under pressure, for fear someone else will get it, is not a good reason to buy. Don't be afraid to hunt for a bargain.

These are my tips - Good luck and happy hunting!

Thanks C-dot...I wasn't 125% on the suit so I feel a little better about letting it slip past.


Amy Jeanne...I was thinking about asking for a sewing machine for Christmas. However, aside from a dog sweater I rigged from the old sleeve of a moth eaten cashmere sweater, I can't recall a time I actually sewed something. Oh...when I was 9, I happily hand sewed a Barbie dress, in my lap while watching TV. How I cried when my Mom had to cut it apart because I stitched it to my PJ bottoms. (This ought to tell you something!)


LizzieMaine...I'm having trouble in the waist area these days too. sigh It used to be my smallest part. What the heck happened? Well, at least gravity and I have a peace agreement for the time being.

 

[The Shirt]

When I buy vintage online - It must be within 2" of my measurements. (I will usually not buy anything that is too small though unless it is insanely gorgeous and I think I can alter or squeeze into a girdle with it.)

It must be a color family that I like, or I will never wear it.

It must have mulitple views so I can see clearly the back, the length and the condition. I may purchase something with a very minor flaw like a snag - but never a discoloration.

I will only bid what's in my budget. Even if it makes my heart sing. Next week will be another dress that I cannot live without. Funny enough, I'm still living and I've lost what seems like 100s of to die for dresses. I still can pay my bills though.

If I have too many event dresses, I make a list of items that I need and only search for those. Currently I want things to wear to work or casual looks so I focus on those and don't even look for evening wear. Know what you are looking for.

If you have a style icon - why not try and search for an outfit that will make you feel/look like her as your first purchase?

 

[Cricket]

I have a problem with making decisions as well, with any kind of shopping really.

I found a wool skirt suit that I really liked earlier this week. The fabric was perfect and the colors were fantastic. I believe it was a grey undertone with some great pastel stitches in some areas. And it was a perfect suit for the approaching winter season.

Anyway, I tried it on and it didn't "make my heart sing." I found that the size didn't match correctly. I also started to look in the mirror and I found that I was switching my stance from side to side, as if I was trying to make it look good. lol

I finally gave up, and put it back on the rack. At home that evening, I told my husband "I really hated that I left that suit. It was such a good price."

To which he replied, "But I thought you said it didn't fit right? Then why buy it? If your unsure about it, don't buy it."

I sighed to myself because I thought, "That's why it doesn't take him long to shop." I guess sometimes I put too much thought into it when it really should be s simple process I guess.

 

[AllaboutEve]

I only buy things that are in exceptional condition, that I can try on, and that fit well. Those are my 3 golden rules.

I have made a few things myself but, without bringing down other people's handywork, I just don't feel that homemade has the same finish and detailing as ready made. That is partly due to the fact that I am by no means a true proficient like Lauren, but it just doesn't hang the same, have the same original fabric, fastenings etc. and looks, well..... "home-made" to me.

I know that makes me sound like a terrible snob, but I'm not really it's a preference of mine and I am sure if I was put to the challenge on some of the wonderful garments that the ladies here make that I would probably struggle to tell the originals and the modern home sewns apart without close inspection!!

I suppose it's easier with simple things like summer dresses and skirts, but I like structured suits and coats and wouldn't have a hope in heaven of either sourcing original heavyweight fabrics or knowing where to begin with sewing it!

I stopped buying vintage clothing from Ebay a while back as for every great purchase I made there were at least 9 that were ultimately disappointing. Jewellery and other hardware like bags and hats is fine but clothing seems like such a minefield and if something is too short in the waist or stained or faded then I just wouldn't want to wear it so lots of it ended up in the back of the wardrobe.

It was an expensive habit with a very low yeild in my experience, I always think it's a bit like gambling you get one wonderful thing and then throw yourself and your money at a dozen others thinking your onto a lucky streak only to find them all a big let down.

I only buy from 2 or 3 London sellers now, one of whom I work for on occasion and the pay off for getting to know a seller very well is that IF you do find that you have an issue with your wonderful new purchase when you get it home you know you have the security of being able to take it back. You also get to have a jolly good look at the garment and TRY IT ON!!

I say support your local sellers if you have any!

 

[Foofoogal]

1. I buy for investment.
2. I buy for self and it doesn't fit so have to sell.
3. I buy because it is gorgeous and I have to have it.
4. I buy vintage cardigans because for some reason they are a connection to my past I am still trying to figure out and I buy vintage lingerie to pass along to my granddaughters. A woman has to have luxurious lingerie and what I see coming out down the pipe new lately isn't.
http://sandysfancypants.blogspot.com
Buying vintage should not be a crap shoot and why I offer money back guarantee. Period.

I have a too small ribbon dress I bought that to me is like Art. Beautiful enough to hang on the wall and I sold a beaded dress once so unique it was the same. Should of kept it maybe. Alas.
Like I said before on here stuff comes to me. Lately it is coats. Everywhere I go seems I run across a nice vintage coat. Maybe it is because I am colder since moving to Arkansas lately, I figure if one day I end up with a lot of nice warm coats and they don't sell some people that really need them will be getting them.
Coming from a large family I have it ingrained in me to pick up bargains when I find them. Never know when a rainy day will come.
I shall have many coats when the day comes.

 

[SayCici]

Do you only buy it if it makes your heart sing?

My rule for any kind of shopping is that I need to love and really be confident that I'll wear/use the item. I've already gone through the years of filling my closet with things I thought I really liked only to never have anything I wanted to wear, because I didn't feel too amazing in clothes I didn't absolutely love. Don't buy anything with doubt, especially if it is in regard to fit.

I know it can seem overwhelming that, unlike going into a store in the mall, a lot of what you see when shopping for vintage may only come around once, but that doesn't actually mean you won't see something very similar, or even better.

Lately I've really preferred to sew from vintage patterns than buy vintage clothes. It makes a lot of sense price-wise when you need something basic that can be hard to find, like a good pair of trousers or a blouse.

Otherwise, no rules really, just common sense, like condition or if it's in a color I'll never wear.

 

[fortworthgal]

I only buy real vintage, and I only buy it in person (not online). My purchases have all come from estate & garage sales, flea markets, and the occasional antique store.

My criteria are:
- Must be 1930s-50s (some 60s okay if it is cute)
- if it will fit (I have a difficult-to-fit figure)
- price is right (for me this usually means under $10)
- if I think it is cute/wearable

Shoes I'll buy if they are my size and in wearable condition. Hats, gloves, bags & jewelry I'll buy if they are interesting and a good price.

I wouldn't say I have a specific budget... my budget is really only determined by the fact that I'm a notorious cheapskate. lol I could drop $150 on a dress, but why would I when I know I can find so many for $5 and $10?

I've never in my life purchased anything - even modern clothing - in a smaller size hoping one day I'll fit into it.

 

[MagsRags]

This is a great question!
If you're truly new to vintage, I think it would be well worthwhile to go for an in depth shopping expedition to your nearest vintage clothing store. look through all the racks and try on garments from a variety of eras. What sings to you on a mannequin or live model may not suit your body type. If you're respectful with the merchandise, most shop owners will be happy to answer questions about their stock and what makes one garment more special than another.
Once you've figured out your best era, try to invest in a few pieces that fit you perfectly and that you feel great in. Now measure those pieces so you can shop online and have a good chance of buying things that will actually fit. You need to consider not just bust/waist/hips but possibly bodice length, shoulders and more.
When you're shopping online, look at the seller's condition description and return policies. I am always uneasy when everything the seller has listed is described as "good vintage condition" or "great condition for its age". Unfortunately, some sellers seem to think that it's normal for vintage to have holes and stains and odors, so why bother to mention them? Ditto for "a few spots that will probably come out with cleaning." Maybe it will, but best to assume stains won't come out, and factor what you're willing to spend based on that. Especially true of underarm stains unless the garment is cotton and can be soaked, oxy-cleaned or bleached with impunity. And if you make an online purchase and you feel the seller missed something important, contact them and give them a chance to make it right. A good seller will want to rectify a mistake if they've made one, and we all miss things from time to time.
There's a lot of good sellers out there - quite a few of them belong to the Vintage Fashion Guild. Sellers have to apply and then have their knowledge and overall selling practices reviewed to be approved. I am aware of at least one former VFG member whose membership was revoked when it became clear that some of her selling practices were (shall we say) less than ethical.

 

[Inky]

I buy it if it fits and makes me happy/looks good on me. The condition needs to be good - i don't mind some mending or a pin hole here and there, but no stains, big rips in fabric or faded items. Funky odors can be a problem, most can be remedied and since I buy a lot on line I try to ask first what the odor/stain/condition is if it's not stated.

I don't buy investment vintage because I wear my vintage. I buy repro or make my own from vintage patterns as well, because I dance in my clothes and really wear them. I'm almost 50 and would like to wear these clothes for the next 15 to 20 years at least, so I do try to take care of what I have with proper airing out/steaming and cleaning when necessary. I do A LOT of spot cleaning and brushing in between washing or dry cleaning.

I (cover your eyes if you're sensitive) like to buy NOS (new old stock) and actually wear it. Some folks don't - you really just have to find your own limits regarding that topic.

What has helped me (as I had to fully reconstruct my wardrobe literally from the underwear out due to drastic weight loss) was creating wish lists. At first it was overwhelming but VERY basic. Now that my wardrobe is about 90% fleshed out, I have a wish list for specifics (like a red and silver patio squaw dress) or things to round out my wardrobe that are more vague (red 40's purse).

I go over my wish list every few months, and i remove things that I found or that don't interest me anymore. I also add things when I see something I think I'll like (noting the website or store if possible) and let it marinate on the list for a while.

This "wish list" technique has helped me acquire what I need for my look, help me to avoid shopping mistakes and prevent making useless purchases.

 

[Hestia]

I am sometimes too easily seduced by a great deal, so before I buy something I always ask myself- would I still want to buy this if it wasn't cheap? It's great to get a deal, but it's not a deal if you don't really love the piece.

If I can imagine myself still lusting after it at twice the price, it's probably a good buy.

 

[cecil]

1. Does it fit?
2. Is it in good condition, or if it's not, can I repair it easily?
3. Is it black? (<-that's just personal preference, I guess anyone could interchange this with "does the colour suit me?")
4. Will it flatter? Or for hats, Will it work with my hairstyle?
5. Is it from the '30s or '40s? I've broken this rule once, but still.

I would say "Can I afford it?" but I've sacrified proper food for clothes I neeeeeded many a time.

I read some good advice in a book about vintage clothing: Find some sort of niche and stick to it. I love 20s and 50s clothes but a) they don't suit me and b) there'd be just too much to look for!

 

[dgenevieve]

Next week will be another dress that I cannot live without. Funny enough, I'm still living and I've lost what seems like 100s of to die for dresses. I still can pay my bills though.

If I have too many event dresses, I make a list of items that I need and only search for those. Currently I want things to wear to work or casual looks so I focus on those and don't even look for evening wear. Know what you are looking for.

If you have a style icon - why not try and search for an outfit that will make you feel/look like her as your first purchase?

Such a great thread!

I totally agree with the point that there's always another to-die-for dress next week. I ran into this problem at first, because omigoodness it's vintage and so unbearably unique and I'll never find a dress/skirt/etc. like this ever ever again and I just can't live with myself if this piece is not in my life! lol But you know what? I fall in love with things all the time. You have to learn to let things go, otherwise you'll drive yourself crazy!

On the other hand... you have to know what "true love" feels like. That one unfathomably perfect-for-you piece that really just completes your life. Sounds dramatic? It is. But it's important to keep a level head about these things. I am always wary of falling head-over-heels for something I see online. Too often, there's small (or big) imperfections that you didn't see in the pictures, or the garment is modeled on an different figure than your own, etc. and fantasy can override reality. I tend to stick to very cheap purchases when shopping for vintage clothes online (I'm talking under $30), and only buy more expensive garments from people that I know/love/trust.

It helps me immensely to make lists, whether I'm shopping for vintage or modern clothes. Right now, I have far too many dresses in my life, so those are off my list for the time being (ok, I'll always indulge in a little "window shopping"). What I'm focusing on right now are wearable separates, like pants, skirts, shirts, and sweaters. I would also like to find a nice skirt suit. It helps to be as specific as you can be... for instance in a suit, I'd like to find something from the mid-'40s, in a medium grey wool, with at least three buttons on the jacket, and some interesting details at the pockets and/or collar. That way, I won't find myself stuck with a navy blue gabardine, two-button, late-50s something-or-other. So, I may end up compromising a smidge, but it really helps me (and my budget!) to pre-visualize.

Another issue is sizing. You said that you were certain that something would fit you, but in my experience this is very difficult to determine by looking at measurements online. Vintage clothing sellers almost always list garment sizes by the actual dimensions of the garment, not listing what measurements will fit into it. So, say you have a 29" waist and you see a skirt listed as a 29" waist, it will not fit you! You need at least an inch or two (or three, depending on the garment and how you prefer your fit) difference between your body and the garment. Hard lesson! It's a much different experience than shopping for modern clothes which almost always have a bit of stretch in them, so you can fudge your size a bit. In any case, it's always better to try something on in person, because you just never know how something will hang on you!

 

[Lauren]

Do you only buy it if it makes your heart sing?
- Yes, but sometimes it requires trying it on because some vintage stuff looks "eh" on the hanger, but on the body it looks great! And sometimes if it's a basic I know I need to fill out my wardrobe, regardless of if it makes me heart sing- if it's cheap and I could use it, I get it.

Do you buy it just because you think it will fit? (especially for difficult sizes like really petite girls or super tall, or larger ladies)
- Nope. I have long arms and a short torso, so a lot of times things fit wonky. This and condition issues are what make me usually make my own- and the styles I really love just don't seem to have survived much.

If you like it, but you suspect it might not really be authentic to the time period (eg a vintage revival but from the 80's) do you still get it?
I don't really care if things are authentic if I love them. I probably won't wear them to a "vintage event", but I wear thrift store scores all the time. That said, I don't dress totally vintage every day so I have no qualms on that front.

Do you ever fall in love with something you know is too small and get it in hopes of becoming that size?
Nope. I held onto quite a few rare things that I loved, but realized I was just pocketing them away when someone who was that size and would love them could get use out of them. If a waist cincher or girdle won't make it fit it's out! Unless it's super rare and I'm hanging onto it just for collecting's sake.

How disciplined are you to stick within a budget?
VERY. My husband and I are pretty darn frugal. Patterns are my weakness, but I still stick within budget. If I can't afford to get it at the time I don't- no sticking it on plastic for this gal- learned my lesson that way. I'm a cheapskate, too. Even if I find something fabulous that fits- it's it's over $40 I usually pass on it, unless I have specifically saved up to get something for a certain event I'm going to. I used to think "there will always be more", and there usually will but it's getting fewer and farther between with stuff I really like- (1930s, mostly) so I make most everything now. I simply can't afford the vintage clothing market for the most part, so I "make do" in my own way.
I did, however, score a great suit on ebay for $30 last night... so deals are there to be had if you're patient for them.

 

[CherryWry]

Flip side: do you ever pass up something you love and can afford because you don't trust yourself with it?

I'm horrible at making decisions about small purchases - big stuff, like a car, house, computer, etc. I know right away, but if you ask me pick out a tube of lipstick, I'll fret all day.

Right now I'm in the market for an everyday purse...I can't find anything new I even remotely like, everything is gaudy or huge or black or just not me. I've been thinking about going vintage, but I'm afraid that I'd feel awful if I found something I loved and wore it to death/trashed it like I seem to do to everything else I own. Does that make sense, or am I being neurotic?

(I won't freak out if any of you tell me I'm being neurotic...it'll actually probably be the justification I need to shut up and buy a freaking purse already.)

 

[23SkidooWithYou]

Flip side: do you ever pass up something you love and can afford because you don't trust yourself with it?

I don't think there's anything neurotic about appreciating vintage treasures AND understanding how you plan to utilize an item. `

I completely understand! You want a great vintage purse but you know your "go-to" bag needs to be a work horse. It could be an enviable dilemma!

My suggestion: Get several vintage bags and rotate them frequently. lol
This way, you get your pretty bag and no one takes all the abuse.

 

[Inky]

I don't think there's anything neurotic about appreciating vintage treasures AND understanding how you plan to utilize an item. `

I completely understand! You want a great vintage purse but you know your "go-to" bag needs to be a work horse. It could be an enviable dilemma!

My suggestion: Get several vintage bags and rotate them frequently. lol
This way, you get your pretty bag and no one takes all the abuse.

well said, Skidoo! I love the idea of several nice vintage bags to alternate. I have a few and that's what I do when I go out but I have a daily workhorse too. I don't worry about my vintage. I buy it to wear it. I'm not buying museum quality items or something spectacular like that, so I wear it. I am careful and make sure I take care of it - but the pleasure in it for me is the wearing. don't be afraid!!

fftopic: As someone who hates changing purses and wanted a workhorse everyday bag, I finally caved in and bought a Trophy Queen. They aren't for everyone and definitely have a "Kustom Kulture" or "rockabilly" feel to them with their shiny auto upholstery look to them. But they are made like iron and they stand behind their product with repairs/refurbishing if you ever need it.