Period Short Waist Half-Belt

[jon z]

Finding myself at a loose end I had the Wife take some pics of me wearing this. I thought it might be of interest to see how a period jacket fits compared to the many repro pics posted on here. This was a genuine eBay bargain.

 

[feltfan]

Tag?

Very nice. Make sure the dalek doesn't steal it.

 

[Papa M]

That is a great looking jacket.

For my taste the half-belt sits a little high at the back and looks odd. Also the collar is a bit "fly-away". Great looking hide though!

 

[jon z]

It has no makers tag, only the obligatory HH label & a size tag in one of the pockets.

Personally I like the collar & the position of the half-belt. You might notice though that the side straps seem to be purely decorative as the male halves are tapered so it's not possible to pull them through the buckles any further than the point at which the widths match. I bet you'd forget your qualms over the collar & belt for the $75 price this went for.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Nice jacker, hide and colour and I like the design. In my view it's a size too small judging by the sleaves and tight back. Great for the money.

 

[jon z]

The tightness across the back is a trick of light & camera. It really isn't. The sleeves however do fit as pictured & I think they are fine. I only ever wear my jackets over cotton T's & don't like excess room in them. Being a vintage jacket it fits the way it was meant to in the day.

 

[Pushrod]

Sharp looking jacket, looks like it fits good too, that's a steal at 75 bucks.

 

[Seb Lucas]

The tightness across the back is a trick of light & camera. It really isn't. The sleeves however do fit as pictured & I think they are fine. I only ever wear my jackets over cotton T's & don't like excess room in them. Being a vintage jacket it fits the way it was meant to in the day.

Actually, if you look at photos of the period you'll see that there was no period fit. People wore jackets roomy or tight, depending on taste. But I know what you're getting at. Appart from the unusual high belt, it fits like a 1930's style Aero half-belt.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Man that back belt is straaaaangely placed. Almost as if it's been an afterthought, like a customer has requested a half belt and the maker didn't really know what he was doing and didn't quite get it in the right place. Quite a unique jacket because of it. Congrats. It seems to be in fantastic condition.

Can I see some good pics of the zipper? Looks like a Serval or Prentice puller, maybe a Conmar?? And the stopper teeth? The jacket is striking me as 60s or later, but I'm not certain why I get that vibe from it. Also what is the liner made of? Quilted acetate?

It does look like an Aero 30s effort. Aero doesn't get it quite right, in my opinion - too long in the body generally. Designed for the "modern fit", i'm told. Yours looks like a good length, the arms are just right. Again, the vast majority of people wear the arms too long, to the point where it inhibits anything you're trying to do with your hands. The shoulder panel looks to have a nice fullness, allowing for ease of movement and reaching.

Nice Lees, too.

bk

Interesting to compare this one of mine from the middle '30s.

[/QUOTE]

 

[jon z]

Actually, if you look at photos of the period you'll see that there was no period fit. People wore jackets roomy or tight, depending on taste. But I know what you're getting at. Appart from the unusual high belt, it fits like a 1930's style Aero half-belt.

Hmm...point taken. Perhaps what I should of said is if this jacket was compared to a modern day jacket of the same labelled size the modern day item would be a much looser fit than mine.

Man that back belt is straaaaangely placed. Almost as if it's been an afterthought, like a customer has requested a half belt and the maker didn't really know what he was doing and didn't quite get it in the right place. Quite a unique jacket because of it. Congrats. It seems to be in fantastic condition.

Do you know I never really considered the belt position "strange" until it was pointed out here. "Strange' it may be but I like this jacket. I feels great on. As said the belt is purely aesthetic as those tapered side straps are not adjustable. It is in good condition, the only signs of serious wear are some small high points in the usual places on the lining.

Can I see some good pics of the zipper? Looks like a Serval or Prentice puller, maybe a Conmar?? And the stopper teeth? The jacket is striking me as 60s or later, but I'm not certain why I get that vibe from it. Also what is the liner made of? Quilted acetate?

The zipper pics will have to wait I'm afraid as the borrowed camera's battery has died & I didn't think to borrow the charger! I will post them ASAP. The main zip is a Conmatic. My guess is the jacket is of 50s vintage. You are correct on the lining being quilted & its that iridescent material that flips between blue & green. Whether or not it's acetate or not I couldn't say.

It does look like an Aero 30s effort. Aero doesn't get it quite right, in my opinion - too long in the body generally. Designed for the "modern fit", i'm told. Yours looks like a good length, the arms are just right. Again, the vast majority of people wear the arms too long, to the point where it inhibits anything you're trying to do with your hands. The shoulder panel looks to have a nice fullness, allowing for ease of movement and reaching.

The sleeves are slightly longer than they appear in my pic as they are pushed up by the action of putting my hands in my pockets. That said they are shorter than most seem to wear them these days. These finish about a 1/2" past the join of my wrist & palm, which is my ideal. I hate cuffs that obstruct & interfere in what I do with my hands. Also I feel self conscious with sleeves that I feel are too long for my arms. You're right again - reaching is no problem.

Nice Lees, too.

Thanks. My preferred brand & of the pairs I have these are my favourite pair yet by far the cheapest I've bought. Washed once by the previous owner which resulted in them being too small so I got them for a steal at £11 on eBay. Selvedge as well.

bk

Interesting to compare this one of mine from the middle '30s.

Thanks for sharing this. An amazing jacket. Is it leather? I find it difficult to make out the material from your pic. It looks quite fragile so do you get to wear it?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Thanks for sharing this. An amazing jacket. Is it leather? I find it difficult to make out the material from your pic. It looks quite fragile so do you get to wear it?

Yeah, fragile isn't the word! The cuffs are shot, as is one side of the waistband at the front. Big tears with some old repairs which hold things together … somewhat. It's made of really soft deerskin. It was originally a polished finish in yellow, which is retained in areas but mostly it's been rubbed to a white suede-like finish. It was such a ridiculously cheap buy (On a sale rail no less) that i couldn't pass it up even in the condition.

I don't wear it much but i do get a bit of wear and it always gets compliments, even though it's pretty dirty and obviously knackered.

bk

 

[deluxestyling]

For what it's worth jon z I think that's a fantastic jacket fella. Really interesting that high back and I'd say it's a perfect snug fit on you. It makes a nice change to see an original jacket here so thanks a lot for posting it.

I have jackets that fit snug just like this fits you, I like them that way and refer to them as my t-shirt jackets as they fit best with just a t-shirt underneath. That works out fine here in the UK as most of the year we have mild weather even in the summer. I have others that have just as good a fit but I can get another layer underneath for when it's colder.

In my opinion half belts and other jackets from this era are wonderfully styled and cut and if they're too big all of that is lost.

 

[jon z]

deluxestyling: Thanks for your vote of confidence. Sounds like your a man after my own heart in the jacket department. You just about summed up exactly the fit I go for.

 

[jamespibworth@n]

This reminds me I have one of those:




I paid £150.00 for mine.

I am also not sure about the belt height.

Will take it off the rack and wear it a while.

James.

 

[jon z]

Hey James that's a sharp looking jacket. I particularly like the high positioning of the half belt. Oh, I've just noticed it's the same as mine lol. Thanks for posting that. What's the chances of two of these unusual US half belts turning up in England, being owned by two members of the same forum? Out of interest where did you get yours from & how long have you had it?

 

[jamespibworth@n]

I bought it via eBay two or three years ago. From memory I think it came from Canada. Usually I keep the purchase details but they seem to have gone astray.

Bet some of these jackets have traveled a lot over the last 60 odd years. Then again some perhaps have hardly moved at all.

 

[jon z]

Thanks James. Mine was an eBay buy from the US. I also have mislaid my payment details. From memory I've had it some 6 or 7 years now.

John

 

[BellyTank]

I think those jackets are of Canadian origin.


B
T

 

[jon z]

Interesting thought. Would you care to explain your thinking behind that? It seems James' at least has spent time in said country.

 

[BellyTank]

Maybe just a thought.
I've had a few Canadian jackets in the past- some, even with labels.
But you do see jackets turning up in the 'States, that don't -quite- look like typical American fare- sometimes a little oddball, within the context of N.American vintage.
Of course you see the odd one with a Lightning zip and a label, stating origin,
which is a good clue.

If you're familiar with vintage British and American leathers, you may observe
something of the British in Canadian leathers and perhaps outerwear in general, or maybe not.

I may be alone on this one.

B
T