Peaked lapels?

[matei]

Hello all,

Does anyone know when the peaked lapel fell out of favour and the notched lapel became the prevalent style?

I'm partial to the peaked lapel myself, but I can't find any decent modern coats that feature them.

 

[herringbonekid]

do you mean suit jackets as oppose to overcoats ?

the SB peaked lapel's heyday was the 30s. it's been in decline since the early 40s on, but is having a resurgence of late. now is definately the time to find a modern SB peaked jacket.

 

[otterhound]

According to the men's fashion history article at http://www.lindyhopping.com/fashionhistm.html

In 1949, Esquire promoted a new look by labeling it "the bold look". Its characteristics were a loose fitting jacket with pronounced shoulders. Other style changes included single-breasted jackets with notched lapels and three buttons. Henceforth, peaked lapels were reserved for double-breasted jackets. These jackets also included a center vent.​

 

[matei]

Thanks guys... I was referring to suit jackets.

I'm on the lookout for a well-made SB suit jacket with peaked lapels, vintage or otherwise. I've started to see them in catalogues, but nothing yet on the ground. Maybe I'm not looking in the right places.

I have seen loads of ugly DB suits with peaked lapels, but the DB has been banned in our household. Me wife says that it would make me look like a corrupt, post-communism, Eastern European businessman.

That being said, a few of my suits make me look like a corrupt communist-era apparatchik...

 

[Baron Kurtz]

As i understand it, the SBPL (Anthony Eden / Samuel Hoare model i would imagine we are talking about) was a brief fling in the middle thirties somewhere. Notch was the predominant for SB suit jackets before and after. Although peak lapels on SB existed to an extent, the ones i've seen were more rounded at the ends and not nearly so crazy wide as the Eden ones (see the Japanese tailor threads).

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Henceforth, peaked lapels were reserved for double-breasted jackets.

With one exception: a particular "Bold Look" suit from the early '50s that was marketed toward the younger crowd. It was usually made of flannel or gabardine in solid colors, from royal blue to pastels. The jacket had very padded shoulders, a very low gorge, one or two front buttons that were often cloth-covered, and peak lapels. The trousers had a Hollywood waist, pleats, and were considerably pegged. Basically, it was a modified zoot suit, without the very long jacket length or the very high waist.

Wish I had a photo, but I don't. The picture below shows what this suit looks like, only with notch lapels. (Imagine the same suit with peak lapels, and you'll get the idea.)

These suits are (or at least were) fairly easy to find. I used to see them in vintage clothing stores on a regular basis.

.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I saw several peaked lapels in Windows in New York, New York. The style is here. Governor Schwarzenegger wear the style quite often, and Letterman's tailor is reported to be leading him in that direction as well... though I don' like the baggy fit on Letterman's single breasted peak lapels.

The more trendyt shops like J. Crew and the hidden parts of Brooks Brothers carry DB-peak suits, though I'm not a fan of their patter being non cymetrical... it's a shame that they no longer can get people who can just make the two lapels look the same... It's weird!

 

[Tangoman]

I have seen some SB peaked lapel jackets and suits in some of the fashion chain stores here in the London suburbs. Next has a black pinstripe suit, French Connection UK have several colours of jacket some with matching trousers available. I brought myself a light grey, lightweight all wool suit version there yesterday. They have a sale on at the moment so good value (£85 down from £200). Two points to notice though. The lapels on all the ones I've seen have been somewhat narrow compared to vintage, and generally the cut is quite slim, so my usual 42" chest was up to 44" for a comfortable fit for the suit I brought.

 

[The real Henry]

Yeah the peaked lapel on men's jacket are coming back, though, like Tangoman said, most of those jacket have pretty narrow. To me it looks as if someone would put a 60s and a 30s suit together! :eusa_doh: