PatternMaster

[Lorena B]

Hummm.. that's great Marieanne, thank you for your quick reply.
I am really observing the possibility to buy it myself, seems like a good investment as is something that you really would get to use
Thanks again

 

[Sickofitcindy]

You can use it with a Mac. You need some sort of program that makes windows programs run but it should work. I just used it to knock off a vintage pattern that I can't find.

 

[Lorena B]

Well, i couldnt download it with my mac but i did use my crossover mac to pc program and i have checked and downloaded the programs, to be honest it looks pretty good, even my guy who is a garment buyer and is so involved in clothing has found it interesting so i think i will be getting one of the programs and as for my guy .. i think now has a clear idea of what to get me by Christmaslol

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Now is a really good time to buy as it's on sale!

 

[MarieAnne]

Gleeeee!

I've been posting lot's of questions and suggestions with regards to vintage patterns on the Pattern Master community forum. And the mediators have started a Vintage section! Weeeee! It's just tiny now and they will try to move everything vintage into that thread over the next few days.

 

[cailinbeag]

I just wanted to poke my head in here and say that I have Pattern Master Boutique, as well. I got it for Christmas last year and have used it for a lot of projects with much success. It's a fantastic product and between the staff and the forums, the support is amazing.

 

[cailinbeag]

Recreating Vintage Patterns Using Radial Projection

I know there are ladies out there who see the back of envelopes of beautiful vintage patterns and think "there must be a way to recreate that". There is. This radial projection method uses Pattern Master software, but can be duplicated in most CAD based programs and even manually, if the basic concepts are applied.

This will also work on Lutterloh patterns, and is a great way to begin playing with those CoPA patterns so many of us scrambled to save during their free trial.

Here's how:

Let's say I see a vintage pattern online that I love, and they show the envelope back with the pattern pieces. I want to recreate this pattern to my size.

1. I right-click on the image and save it as a .jpg to C:\PMBoutique4\Patterns. PMB will have created this file in this location when it was installed. I also make a note of the sizing B-W-H ratio, if I can see it. If not, here are B-W-H ratios based on time period that will work as a reference. They are all a size 12:

1940: B30-W25-H33
1955: B30-W24-H33
1960: B32-W25-H34
1970: B34-W25.5-H36
1975+: B34-W26.5-H36

2. I go to Pattern Editor in PMB. I click File - Open, and then open my .jpg from C:\PMBoutique4\Patterns.

3. Using my Line and Arc tools in PE, I trace over the pattern pieces. I usually have to zoom in to make sure my tracing is accurate. Once this is done, I click around the area until I highlight the .jpg (it'll look like a big red box when I do) and I delete it. This will show the tracings underneath.

4. Here's where it gets a little tricky. I compare my own measurements to the measurements on the envelope. For example, mine are B44 - W37 - H45. Based on this, I want to use my bust size to set the ratio because, as per the pattern measurements, it is proportionately larger than my waist and hips. It will mean the waist and hips will be larger than necessary, but it's easier to take fabric in than to let it out.

5. I look for a place to find a bust measurement. This will be determined by the type of pattern I have. If it's got a complicated front, I use the back bodice. I measure across at the bust by using the Line tool and then click on the line to seethe length. Let's say the measurement comes to 2".

6. I consider how much ease I want. The Style Editor Ease Chart is a good tool to use. Let's say, for a basic dress, I want 3.5" ease at the bust. 44" + 3.5" = 47.5". I divide that by four (in half for front and back, then in half again, assuming the back bodice is cut on the fold). So. 47.5" / 4 = 11.88".

7. And yet more math, but we're almost done. I want to scale the piece to the size I need. I do this by dividing 11.88 (the desired measurement) by 2 (the actual measurement).This will give me the percentage I need to scale it by. So. 11.88 / 2 =5.94. That's 594%. That's my magic number.

8. I highlight the pattern piece, but do not group it. I click on the Scale tool, and enter "594" in the Horizontal Distance box, and make sure "Proportional" is checked. Then I hit enter.

9. I click on that line I created to measure the bust, the one that was2". It should now be 11.88". I repeat Step 8 to all other pattern pieces. I then go in and add my seam allowances (I suggest a full inch, rather than 5/8", just for added altering room), using the Offset tool.I group each piece and save the project as a .las file.

10. I print off the pattern pieces and create a muslin to see how everything fits. I expect that there will be more tweaking (dart adjustments,torso length, sleeve length, hem, etc) but I should now have a pattern that basically fits me, where the adjustments are no different than ifI had bought the pattern in my size.

Note: DO NOT save the original pattern piece pics individually as .jpgs. They will save as different sizes and you'll end up having to go through the whole rigamarole for each piece, instead of determining scaling for one and applying to all. Just save the whole envelope pic as one unit, that way you ensure that the pieces are in proportion to each other.

Also: When scaling the full piece, you're going to end up with a bit more length than you might find on the original pattern. This works for me because I'm 5'10", but those of average height will need to take it into consideration. One way to estimate the original body length of a vintage pattern is to scale one piece twice, once to your measurements and once to a size 12 of that period. Then use the vertical scale percentage from the size 12 and the horizontal scale percentage from your size. Make sure to unclick "Proportional". That should give you a ballpark vertical for 5'5"ish, which as been the average female height since the 50s. To cross check your measurements, use the finished length given on the back of the pattern envelope, if available.

I've had REALLY good luck with this method. If you have any questions, please feel free to email me.

I do not encourage the use of this method on any pattern that is still protected by copyright laws.

 

[MarieAnne]

I know there are ladies out there who see the back of envelopes of beautiful vintage patterns and think "there must be a way to recreate that". There is. This radial projection method uses Pattern Master software, but can be duplicated in most CAD based programs and even manually, if the basic concepts are applied.

This will also work on Lutterloh patterns, and is a great way to begin playing with those CoPA patterns so many of us scrambled to save during their free trial.

Here's how:

Let's say I see a vintage pattern online that I love, and they show the envelope back with the pattern pieces. I want to recreate this pattern to my size.

1. I right-click on the image and save it as a .jpg to C:\PMBoutique4\Patterns. PMB will have created this file in this location when it was installed. I also make a note of the sizing B-W-H ratio, if I can see it. If not, here are B-W-H ratios based on time period that will work as a reference. They are all a size 12:

1940: B30-W25-H33
1955: B30-W24-H33
1960: B32-W25-H34
1970: B34-W25.5-H36
1975+: B34-W26.5-H36

2. I go to Pattern Editor in PMB. I click File - Open, and then open my .jpg from C:\PMBoutique4\Patterns.

3. Using my Line and Arc tools in PE, I trace over the pattern pieces. I usually have to zoom in to make sure my tracing is accurate. Once this is done, I click around the area until I highlight the .jpg (it'll look like a big red box when I do) and I delete it. This will show the tracings underneath.

4. Here's where it gets a little tricky. I compare my own measurements to the measurements on the envelope. For example, mine are B44 - W37 - H45. Based on this, I want to use my bust size to set the ratio because, as per the pattern measurements, it is proportionately larger than my waist and hips. It will mean the waist and hips will be larger than necessary, but it's easier to take fabric in than to let it out.

5. I look for a place to find a bust measurement. This will be determined by the type of pattern I have. If it's got a complicated front, I use the back bodice. I measure across at the bust by using the Line tool and then click on the line to seethe length. Let's say the measurement comes to 2".

6. I consider how much ease I want. The Style Editor Ease Chart is a good tool to use. Let's say, for a basic dress, I want 3.5" ease at the bust. 44" + 3.5" = 47.5". I divide that by four (in half for front and back, then in half again, assuming the back bodice is cut on the fold). So. 47.5" / 4 = 11.88".

7. And yet more math, but we're almost done. I want to scale the piece to the size I need. I do this by dividing 11.88 (the desired measurement) by 2 (the actual measurement).This will give me the percentage I need to scale it by. So. 11.88 / 2 =5.94. That's 594%. That's my magic number.

8. I highlight the pattern piece, but do not group it. I click on the Scale tool, and enter "594" in the Horizontal Distance box, and make sure "Proportional" is checked. Then I hit enter.

9. I click on that line I created to measure the bust, the one that was2". It should now be 11.88". I repeat Step 8 to all other pattern pieces. I then go in and add my seam allowances (I suggest a full inch, rather than 5/8", just for added altering room), using the Offset tool.I group each piece and save the project as a .las file.

10. I print off the pattern pieces and create a muslin to see how everything fits. I expect that there will be more tweaking (dart adjustments,torso length, sleeve length, hem, etc) but I should now have a pattern that basically fits me, where the adjustments are no different than ifI had bought the pattern in my size.

Note: DO NOT save the original pattern piece pics individually as .jpgs. They will save as different sizes and you'll end up having to go through the whole rigamarole for each piece, instead of determining scaling for one and applying to all. Just save the whole envelope pic as one unit, that way you ensure that the pieces are in proportion to each other.

Also: When scaling the full piece, you're going to end up with a bit more length than you might find on the original pattern. This works for me because I'm 5'10", but those of average height will need to take it into consideration. One way to estimate the original body length of a vintage pattern is to scale one piece twice, once to your measurements and once to a size 12 of that period. Then use the vertical scale percentage from the size 12 and the horizontal scale percentage from your size. Make sure to unclick "Proportional". That should give you a ballpark vertical for 5'5"ish, which as been the average female height since the 50s. To cross check your measurements, use the finished length given on the back of the pattern envelope, if available.

I've had REALLY good luck with this method. If you have any questions, please feel free to email me.

I do not encourage the use of this method on any pattern that is still protected by copyright laws.

INCREDIBLE!

 

[crwritt]

INCREDIBLE!

Thank You so much for this information!It makes me want that software all the more!