Panama Hat Thread

[DRB]

This is how I counted the WPI (weaves per inch) in my hats. I downloaded a printable square (2ea.), then pieced them together, then put clear tape over them. You can download your own printable square here: https://www.printablerulers.net/preview/Square On my system it prints to proper 1" scale.

I noticed that my white Borsalino that I thought was fairly tight was not tight at all! I can't remember but I think I paid around $275 for it? The colored one I paid $220. Look at the weave counts: White: about 135. Darker: about 90 (if I am counting right). These probably don't belong in the panama thread. I don't think these are Panamas? Just for example. What I learned was: Pictures are misleading in this case. Still great hats though.

 

[Tukwila]

This is how I counted the WPI (weaves per inch) in my hats. I downloaded a printable square (2ea.), then pieced them together, then put clear tape over them. You can download your own printable square here: https://www.printablerulers.net/preview/Square On my system it prints to proper 1" scale.

I noticed that my white Borsalino that I thought was fairly tight was not tight at all! I can't remember but I think I paid around $275 for it? The colored one I paid $220. Look at the weave counts: White: about 135. Darker: about 90 (if I am counting right). These probably don't belong in the panama thread. I don't think these are Panamas. Just for example. What I learned was: Pictures are misleading in this case. Still great hats though.
View attachment 161070 View attachment 161071 View attachment 161072 View attachment 161073 View attachment 161074 View attachment 161075 View attachment 161076

They are most likely Panama hats hand woven in Cuenca, Ecuador. Just because the WPI/WPSI is lower doesn't mean the hat wasn't made in Ecuador. What do the tags inside the hat say? Is there a brand on the inside of the hat? They look like Panama hats to me.

 

[DRB]

They are most likely Panama hats hand woven in Cuenca, Ecuador. Just because the WPI/WPSI is lower doesn't mean the hat wasn't made in Ecuador. What do the tags inside the hat say? Is there a brand on the inside of the hat? They look like Panama hats to me.

Thank you!! I think you are right. Another learning point. Here is the link to the looser weaved hat:

https://www.cappelleriamelegari.com...zenid=ags0o3na39ugt0kufg075i8uo2#.XI7VTChKhDN

Went back and looked at it. It does mention 'natural "Panama" toquilla colored straw'
There are no tags inside either hat.

 

[jonbuilder]

I just pick this fine weave Montescriti from the bay. Brent has agreed to refurbish the hat. It needs to be resized two sizes up. I hear the hat scream Golf of Panama. https://www.brentblack.com/mens-montecristi-panama-hats.html#golfOfPanama
The only issue with the hat is a kink at the crow pinch. The straw is not broken just kinked. Straw is not dry or brittle.
Anyone have experience resizing

a kink in sraw

 

[Steinbockhase]

I just pick this fine weave Montescriti from the bay. Brent has agreed to refurbish the hat. It needs to be resizes two sizes up. I hear the hat scream Golf of Panama. https://www.brentblack.com/mens-montecristi-panama-hats.html#golfOfPanama
The only issue with the hat is a kink at the crow pinch. The straw is not broken just kinked. Straw is not dry or brittle.
Anyone have experience retiring View attachment 161136 View attachment 161137 View attachment 161138 View attachment 161139 View attachment 161140 a kink in sraw

Enlarge by two sizes? Could be difficult.

 

[Tukwila]

Brent wouldn't do that for me when I picked up one of his hats on ebay.

Good luck.

 

[jonbuilder]

VS Custom Panama. Can someone determine if the panama is a Monetisti or Cuenca? The hat body came from Panama Bob. I get a weave count of 16X13
I wore this hat daily last two summers

 

[Tukwila]

VS Custom Panama. Can someone determine if the panama is a Monetisti or Cuenca? The hat body came from Panama Bob. I get a weave count of 16X13
I wore this hat daily last two summers
View attachment 161247 View attachment 161247

While the higher weave count Cuenca hats can look similar, the brim finish weave on this VS looks more like my Montecristi hats than Cuenca. Perhaps Art could tell you best, though. I also believe Panama Bob dealt mostly with hats made in Montecristi.

Montecristi:

Cuenca:

.

 

[Tukwila]

With your indulgence, gentlemen, allow me to add something about brim finish and brim bindings on Panama hats.

I generally avoid ribbon brim bindings because it adds weight to a fine straw hat that is known for a couple things: (1) lightweight, and (2) an artful, intricate brim weave finish.

I have read that even some of the very best weavers in Pile (the small town outside Montecristi known for the best weavers in the world) have expert brim finishers complete the brims on their masterpieces.

I once saw a miraculous piece of paja toquilla, woven so tight and even it looked more like linen than a straw hat.... But, it had a horrendous brim. The seller was very proud of the weave, and rightly so. But I pointed out that my prospective customers, as well as myself, look for the finished brim to be as nicely finished as the rest of the hat and I would only be able to offer 20-30% of his asking price and - most likely - anyone I knew would cover up that "flaw" with a ribbon brim binding.... and, he could probably get more money from someone who didn't care about this fine point.

Well, he got mad and agreed with me by saying he wouldn't sell me the hat body. Oh well.

Anyway, just a thought for anyone looking for a bound brim. IMHO, a guy should be getting some sort of monetary allowance (read: discount) for a brim that is covered with a ribbon, or folded under and sewn like an underwelt on a felt hat.

You see underwelt/sewn brims on hats in Cuenca like it's just a regular thing. But it's still something I look at for quality v. price considerations.

My last hat from Cuenca was a relatively inexpensive ventilado/semi-calado and it came this way... so, wide straw, loose weave, sewn brim all added up to a good price and a nice, breezy hat. I accept it for what it is, but it's not something I expect to see on a hat costing hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

With your indulgence, gentlemen, allow me to add something about brim finish and brim bindings on Panama hats.

I generally avoid ribbon brim bindings because it adds weight to a fine straw hat that is known for a couple things: (1) lightweight, and (2) an artful, intricate brim weave finish.

I have read that even some of the very best weavers in Pile (the small town outside Montecristi known for the best weavers in the world) have expert brim finishers complete the brims on their masterpieces.

I once saw a miraculous piece of paja toquilla, woven so tight and even it looked more like linen than a straw hat.... But, it had a horrendous brim. The seller was very proud of the weave, and rightly so. But I pointed out that my prospective customers, as well as myself, look for the finished brim to be as nicely finished as the rest of the hat and I would only be able to offer 20-30% of his asking price and - most likely - anyone I knew would cover up that "flaw" with a ribbon brim binding.... and, he could probably get more money from someone who didn't care about this fine point.

Well, he got mad and agreed with me by saying he wouldn't sell me the hat body. Oh well.

Anyway, just a thought for anyone looking for a bound brim. IMHO, a guy should be getting some sort of monetary allowance (read: discount) for a brim that is covered with a ribbon, or folded under and sewn like an underwelt on a felt hat.

You see underwelt/sewn brims on hats in Cuenca like it's just a regular thing. But it's still something I look at for quality v. price considerations.

My last hat from Cuenca was a relatively inexpensive ventilado/semi-calado and it came this way... so, wide straw, loose weave, sewn brim all added up to a good price and a nice, breezy hat. I accept it for what it is, but it's not something I expect to see on a hat costing hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

.

Please keep the information coming. Panamas are still something of a mystery to me.
By the way, I really dig the semi-calado you’re wearing. If you ever come across one in 7 5/8....



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[psklenar]

VS Custom Panama. ...

I love it!!!!
pat----

 

[jonbuilder]

Tukwina Any chance you might post a close up of the brim of the Cuena you posted above so we can see a clear comparison.

 

[Tukwila]

Tukwina Any chance you might post a close up of the brim of the Cuena you posted above so we can see a clear comparison.

Just click on the pic, it will jump up in size so you can see the brim.

 

[jonbuilder]

Just click on the pic, it will jump up in size so you can see the brim.

Got it: I appreciate your posts about the panama brims thanks

 

[Hurricane Jack]

This is how I counted the WPI (weaves per inch) in my hats. I downloaded a printable square (2ea.), then pieced them together, then put clear tape over them. You can download your own printable square here: https://www.printablerulers.net/preview/Square On my system it prints to proper 1" scale.

I noticed that my white Borsalino that I thought was fairly tight was not tight at all! I can't remember but I think I paid around $275 for it? The colored one I paid $220. Look at the weave counts: White: about 135. Darker: about 90 (if I am counting right). These probably don't belong in the panama thread. I don't think these are Panamas? Just for example. What I learned was: Pictures are misleading in this case. Still great hats though.
View attachment 161070 View attachment 161071 View attachment 161072 View attachment 161073 View attachment 161074 View attachment 161075 View attachment 161076

Out of curiosity I counted my Herbert Johnson several times & came up with 18 x 17 = 306. I counted only complete weaves, not partials in the square.

 

[Bushman]

Yesterday was the first time I've worn a Panama hat of this year. It was nice!

 

[DRB]

Out of curiosity I counted my Herbert Johnson several times & came up with 18 x 17 = 306. I counted only complete weaves, not partials in the square.

View attachment 161413

View attachment 161411

View attachment 161412

I like your measuring tool you made, cool!

 

[DRB]

An interesting video of Ecuador for those that wish to go there. Watch as the narrator bargains the price of a rollable panama hat from $50 to $45. Panama Hats Direct sent this to me. It's a pretty long video.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

I like your measuring tool you made, cool!

Thanks. It's been in my drafting box for a while.

 

[Tukwila]

An interesting video of Ecuador for those that wish to go there. Watch as the narrator bargains the price of a rollable panama hat from $50 to $45. Panama Hats Direct sent this to me. It's a pretty long video.

I noticed the train ticket was paid with Sucre. Ecuador adopted the US dollar as official currency in 2000, so the movie is a bit dated but interesting anyway.

The hat was had for 45,000 sucre vs. the asking price of 50,000 sucre