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Panama Hat Thread

Johnny J

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,115
Location
Panama City, Florida
This is a style of finishing the sweatband where the cut (non-sewn) edge is turned (rolled) to the back. It was used on thinner flexible sweats and is an indicator of age. I am thinking your hat is early 1940's... a fine catch!

Alan, here is a closer pic of the sweat edge. Let me know what you think.

DSC03855.jpg
 
Messages
15,082
Location
Buffalo, NY
Alan, here is a closer pic of the sweat edge. Let me know what you think.

The rolled edge is not where the sweat is attached to the hat, it is the opposite edge. Unlike a simple cut finish, the edge is turned back for an 1/8 or so behind the sweatband. You will see some examples of rolled sweatband finishing on this thread. A quick inspection will tell you if it is or isn't.

And here is the Stetson Size Tag Dating thread, in case you haven't visited yet.
 

Johnny J

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,115
Location
Panama City, Florida
The rolled edge is not where the sweat is attached to the hat, it is the opposite edge. Unlike a simple cut finish, the edge is turned back for an 1/8 or so behind the sweatband. You will see some examples of rolled sweatband finishing on this thread. A quick inspection will tell you if it is or isn't.

And here is the Stetson Size Tag Dating thread, in case you haven't visited yet.

The size tag is gold over card stock and the sweat is not rolled edge. It has a embossing next to the top of edge of sweat.
 

Johnny J

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,115
Location
Panama City, Florida
If you notice in this pic the hat came from "The Golden Rule Men's Shop St. Paul". I found the following info on the web:

DSC03857.jpg


Building History


1900-1949
The Golden Rule Building was originally established as a store in St. Paul in 1886 and moved into a three-story building on the current site in 1891. Under the direction of Clarence H. Johnston Sr., architect, additions were made in 1901, 1910, and 1914, and a new facade added. Johnston raised the older structure into its current six-story Neo-Classical Revival building with an elaborate cornice and classical detailing.

1950-1979
In 1961, the store merged with Donaldson's and became Donaldson's Golden Rule. In later years, the name of the store was shortened to just Donaldson's and remained at this location until 1980 when the business moved into the Town Square complex.

So, adding this info to what we know about the size tag and sweat, its possible that my hat can date back to the 1940s?
 

irfan.wayang

Familiar Face
Messages
54
Location
Jakarta
A while back, I put in an order with Panama Bob for a US-blocked semi colado. While I was waiting, I saw that he'd put up a semi colado that was almost exactly what I wanted on Ebay. I bought it for a hundred dollars, which was a lot cheaper than the custom ordered one that I'd asked for. But no problem, I thought, a deal is a deal, I can live with two semi colados.

A few weeks later, I wrote to Bob to see how the order was progressing. It was taking some time and I'd really already satisfied the desire for that particular type of hat, so Bob offered me the option of "upgrading" to a very beautiful Espinales Fino blocked by Art Fawcett. Apparently, there was some issue with a customer being dissatisfied with it, and he wanted to move it quite quickly, so he offered it to me at a VERY substantial discount over the rack-rate (I'm not sure I should give the exact figure, as there was a bit of sensitivity about some comments on this forum).

But it's a beautiful hat. I don't think I ever imagined I was going to own something like that when I first started browsing this forum!

IMG_0923-Melbourne.jpg


I can't even work out what the WPSI is, the knots are so small! I tried to count, and I got about 1600 on the brim, which was a lot higher than I expected. It seems even finer on the crown.

IMG_0935-Melbourne.jpg


This is obviously not the type of hat that I'll use playing frisbee on the beach, but I wore it with pride and pleasure to the theater last week. To be honest, it was the only thing that got me through a very long and boring show.
 

monbla256

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,239
Location
DFW Metroplex, Texas
Now you know why Bob is THE man to get your Panama's from!! Next time, have him send your hat to Tom Gomez for finishing. Art does nice work, but Tom is absolutely THE BEST for Panama's !! NICE,NICE Panama :)
 

irfan.wayang

Familiar Face
Messages
54
Location
Jakarta
Now you know why Bob is THE man to get your Panama's from!! Next time, have him send your hat to Tom Gomez for finishing. Art does nice work, but Tom is absolutely THE BEST for Panama's !! NICE,NICE Panama :)

A couple of weeks ago, someone posted an image of an Optimo blocked by Tom Gomez. It did look pretty good! But I'm happy to have something by Art, he seems to have his own distinct inimitable style.
 

BR Gordon

One Too Many
Messages
1,152
Location
New Mexico
I recieved two new panama hats from Art Fawcett. Not something I'll wear now, but will have them for next summer. Included are the obligatory wpi photo and the crown rings photo.

The first is a 900 wpi teardrop crown, with a 18 ligne cabernet crown ribbon.










The next is a 600 plus wpi optimo crown, with a 16 ligne ribbon.









 

irfan.wayang

Familiar Face
Messages
54
Location
Jakarta
I recieved two new panama hats from Art Fawcett. Not something I'll wear now, but will have them for next summer. Included are the obligatory wpi photo and the crown rings photo.

Love the Optimo with the wide ribbon! There's something about Art's hats that make them stand out in a crowd, isn't there?
 

monbla256

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,239
Location
DFW Metroplex, Texas
A couple of weeks ago, someone posted an image of an Optimo blocked by Tom Gomez. It did look pretty good! But I'm happy to have something by Art, he seems to have his own distinct inimitable style.

Here's my PB Optimo Montecristi finished by Tom Gomez you refered to.

19870009.jpg


19870010.jpg


19870014.jpg


He handsews all his sweats in the hats he finishes. Beautiful work !
 

BR Gordon

One Too Many
Messages
1,152
Location
New Mexico
Barrowjh and irfan, thanks for the nice comments. Art's work is distinctive.

monbla256, great optimo from Tom. I really enjoy seeing his work. I think that my next montecristi will have to be from him.

BR
 

irfan.wayang

Familiar Face
Messages
54
Location
Jakarta
Here's my PB Optimo Montecristi finished by Tom Gomez you refered to.

Ah, yeah! That was the one! I think I remember you saying it was a medio fino? I remember thinking that as a real, practical hat that "works" for everyday use and looks really good at the same time, it might be a good idea to go for a very nicely blocked hat with medium weave count like that one. I note that what PB calls 'fino' lets through a lot less light and is more comfortable to wear than his ultra-fino type products.
 

wandering-trader

New in Town
Messages
38
Location
Michigan
I found this in a lumpy state at goodwill for $2:

http://picasaweb.google.com/112035090953435902534/PanamaHatProject

3 vuelvas, 15 wpi.

reshaping took a rinse under a hot shower head and a long air dry.

Any advice on what ribbon treatment and color(s) I should use? (Backbow, standard side bow, side valley, ribbed...)

My face is narrow, squarer glasses, and mouth-width thin brown mustache.
 
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