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Pakistani made Leather jacket round 2
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Canuck Panda
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Sourcing and shopping can be fun on its own. Sometimes its rewarding other times its an expensive memory. If you have enjoyed the process of getting to this point then the experience makes it worth while.
Front drop is a very tricky thing. It's can get very misleading to look at it folded in half. Best to spread the jacket out flat to see the entire hem line. Many established makers simply don't do the "front drop" custom request on a flat hem patterned jacket, as it's basically a new pattern redo, or they would charge accordingly and take forever to deliver. The arc line starts from the left front panel around the back and to the other right front panel to create the "front drop". So essentially every body panel has a slight curve, almost unseen to the naked eye, and when added up, it gives it that extra dip in the front, without knowing the front is actually lowered. Or should I say the hem line has been hollowed towards the center back. You can also achieve this look on a flat hem jacket by simply wearing it a lot, the belt is bulky enough it will eventually stretch out the hem line and the leather will pull towards the front if you make a habit of tugging it down all the time.
I didn't know where your thread was going when you first posted it. But I do appreciate being part of the journey, whatever the end result may be. A high quality new jacket built under $500 is a holy grail on its own. In theory it is possible, but odds are stacked against you. Used jackets definitely provide a lot more value. But if you want custom features it goes back to custom jackets or you learn to make modifications on your own, then there is the time cost...etc. It will be interesting where you take us next.
Front drop is a very tricky thing. It's can get very misleading to look at it folded in half. Best to spread the jacket out flat to see the entire hem line. Many established makers simply don't do the "front drop" custom request on a flat hem patterned jacket, as it's basically a new pattern redo, or they would charge accordingly and take forever to deliver. The arc line starts from the left front panel around the back and to the other right front panel to create the "front drop". So essentially every body panel has a slight curve, almost unseen to the naked eye, and when added up, it gives it that extra dip in the front, without knowing the front is actually lowered. Or should I say the hem line has been hollowed towards the center back. You can also achieve this look on a flat hem jacket by simply wearing it a lot, the belt is bulky enough it will eventually stretch out the hem line and the leather will pull towards the front if you make a habit of tugging it down all the time.
I didn't know where your thread was going when you first posted it. But I do appreciate being part of the journey, whatever the end result may be. A high quality new jacket built under $500 is a holy grail on its own. In theory it is possible, but odds are stacked against you. Used jackets definitely provide a lot more value. But if you want custom features it goes back to custom jackets or you learn to make modifications on your own, then there is the time cost...etc. It will be interesting where you take us next.
Canuck Panda
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Here is a BNWT one from Japan, should land in Europe for about the same as your Pakistan jacket or less.
This one is made under the UnionJap brand, it's most likely OEM made by Y'2 years back. Cowhide not horsehide so less money and comparable to the Pakistani jacket. Union Jap sizing runs extremely small, so their L (40) is like a 36. Check the dims to see if it works for you.
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/q1130627021
This one is made under the UnionJap brand, it's most likely OEM made by Y'2 years back. Cowhide not horsehide so less money and comparable to the Pakistani jacket. Union Jap sizing runs extremely small, so their L (40) is like a 36. Check the dims to see if it works for you.
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/q1130627021
I think the people here who've gotten really into finding some kind of "silver bullet" maker somewhere in the world that will somehow deliver what you want at a fraction of the cost are throwing good money after bad.
Yes, there absolutely are good makers around the world. However, you have to take into account what you are looking for and realize that there are some things you just won't find.
People have mentioned going for good shoemakers based in the east, but actually this is much less of a lift, because cobblers used to be commonplace and basically everyone in that trade understands the fundamentals of what goes into a good, comfortable shoe. Reproduction 30s-50s American workwear leather jackets, though, is much more niche and even a place with good patternmakers and craftsmen won't necessary know what's right! So the best case scenario there is already a question mark.
As for those makers who you can more or less trust to do the project by themselves, they exist, but it's extremely unlikely that they will be making leather workwear, or that they would be dirt cheap. Like there are Savile Row trained tailors in the East, such as Vaish in Delhi. Yes, they're cheaper than the Row itself, but they also will not let you do some kind of remote purchase (because then they can't properly measure you to do a pattern, a test, and a fitting. They produce a very good product, but it's not that magical 1/10th the price people are going for. There are similar tailors in Hong Kong as well.
Yes, there absolutely are good makers around the world. However, you have to take into account what you are looking for and realize that there are some things you just won't find.
People have mentioned going for good shoemakers based in the east, but actually this is much less of a lift, because cobblers used to be commonplace and basically everyone in that trade understands the fundamentals of what goes into a good, comfortable shoe. Reproduction 30s-50s American workwear leather jackets, though, is much more niche and even a place with good patternmakers and craftsmen won't necessary know what's right! So the best case scenario there is already a question mark.
As for those makers who you can more or less trust to do the project by themselves, they exist, but it's extremely unlikely that they will be making leather workwear, or that they would be dirt cheap. Like there are Savile Row trained tailors in the East, such as Vaish in Delhi. Yes, they're cheaper than the Row itself, but they also will not let you do some kind of remote purchase (because then they can't properly measure you to do a pattern, a test, and a fitting. They produce a very good product, but it's not that magical 1/10th the price people are going for. There are similar tailors in Hong Kong as well.
I do want to add an addendum, that might make people feel better (without being dishonest).
For all the crap we give the patterning results of asking a factory to make a jacket, there are four-figure Japanese jackets with strong followings on here that have worse shape than any Five Star. The caveats I put above still apply but at least you didn't go that way.
For all the crap we give the patterning results of asking a factory to make a jacket, there are four-figure Japanese jackets with strong followings on here that have worse shape than any Five Star. The caveats I put above still apply but at least you didn't go that way.
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Measurements for the size 34 pattern
Round! Shoulders 44cm width
Sleeve length 60 cm
Chest 98 cm
Waist 89 cm
Back length 60cm
Front Drop 3 cm
23cm Arm opening
13 cm cuff opening
1 Inside Pocket/Pocket in the lining
13cm*20cm
They replied me as I was making this post. They will remake the jacket
Round! Shoulders 44cm width
Sleeve length 60 cm
Chest 98 cm
Waist 89 cm
Back length 60cm
Front Drop 3 cm
23cm Arm opening
13 cm cuff opening
1 Inside Pocket/Pocket in the lining
13cm*20cm
They replied me as I was making this post. They will remake the jacket
58panheadfan
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There are mainly two reason: Masochism & Entertainment for the audience on FL
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Marc mndt
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I'm going to be honest, to me there's more entertainment value in reading about a well executed custom project by one of the renowned jacket makers. Or upcoming makers like Regius. Makers that actually have a passion for leather jackets.
Entertainment probably refers more to the sensationalism that some people feel when accidents and disasters occur.
And in this case, accident and catastrophe are quite apt.
I mean the backside looks good and the sleeve curve looks good to me too.
They fixed the cuff .
The collar looks spot on .
The front drop looks decent .
However the huge buttons and the spacing of the third button makes it look really bad to me.
Also the "waistband" is way to long .
I should really try to get them to remake it .
However this time it would probably be the black pebbled leather in 1.6mm which is easier to work with instead of this firm more naturally finished leather that creases
They fixed the cuff .
The collar looks spot on .
The front drop looks decent .
However the huge buttons and the spacing of the third button makes it look really bad to me.
Also the "waistband" is way to long .
I should really try to get them to remake it .
However this time it would probably be the black pebbled leather in 1.6mm which is easier to work with instead of this firm more naturally finished leather that creases
Wow. If anything this shows how much better an option 5 Star actually is. I can’t sugar coat it. Sorry man but that jacket is just plain awful. Comically bad. Looks like plastic and the proportions are just ridiculous. You should simply quit while you are behind, save your money and buy the real thing. God bless the plastic cow that was sacrificed on the alter of cheap for that abomination.
I understand that you don't like it but enlighten me about the leather being "so awful" .I know you have handled more jackets then me .
I think the surface doesn't look that different to the naked cowhide from my schott .The surface isn't sanded to remove all imperfections.The pores are clearly visible.The leather has a firm temper and has a pigment finish which creates a uniform color in comparison to a aniline finish.
It isn't the "stamped" "purse leather" which doesn't crease or stay the same after bending and flexing.It creases just like other renowned hides .
The jacket here is compl new and of course it has a flat appearance .
Almost all of their photographs are terrible which don't do it any favors
I don't want to fight with you but tell me what you think about the leather used on my "Indy boots" made by my Chinese bootmaker .
Or people enlighten me what you see differently from these hides which makes them so much more desirable.
To me this is just as flat with a high shine finish
Comically this LW has some resemblance in some areas with the "mistakes" made by the Pakistani company such as the throat latch being huge or the slightly less round cuffs
To me this is just as flat with a high shine finish
Comically this LW has some resemblance in some areas with the "mistakes" made by the Pakistani company such as the throat latch being huge or the slightly less round cuffs
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Marc mndt
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The leather looks dull with zero color depth. Also note the scratches in the topcoat, on a new jacket! That tells me that the topcoat will chip off easily.
With regards to construction quality... The seams were pulled too tight when doing the topstitch.
Clearly visible pores are actually a sign that the leather has been heavily corrected / sanded.
Edit: typo
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Believe me I have no fight to give but I can’t honestly believe you don’t look at what you’ve presented here (knowing that you have obviously seen the multitude of established makers versions of this jacket) and you don’t see a bright as the sun, retina burning difference. Pattern and material. It’s just not good man, and I’m sure you know this.
I don’t believe this jacket is made of leather at all. It looks like vinyl to me. There is zero depth of color and zero character. It does not look anything like any organic material I’ve ever seen. It’s flat brown plastic. Marc is giving the benefit of the doubt to this being leather. I am not convinced. If it is, it’s buried under plastic.
The pattern and construction issues are too easy to attack. I won’t even go there, a simple image search for aeromarine or heron or even Levi’s Cossack tells you all you need to know.
But of course this isn’t new information.
I’m not sure I am understanding the connection with regard to the boots. If you like those go to Ali express and pick up the Chinese version of this jacket. It will no doubt be far better. “You get what you pay for” is on full display here and I can only hope for your sake that the investment was very minimal.
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