Oxford Bags

[Two Types]

p.s. i was asked today by a man in a pub if i was wearing 'Oxford Bags' (i wasn't. i was only wearing typical 11" wide high-backed trousers with braces. i first cleared up whether he meant the term in the 1970s 'soul boy' flared version.... he didn't).

this is the second or third time i've been asked this question, so clearly there's still a percentage of the public who think that a wide 30-40s trouser is an 'Oxford Bag'.

Maybe the correct answer was:

"No, but I understand your mistake. These trousers developed from a style known circa 1927 as 'semi-Oxfords', which were effectively a return to a trousers similar to the dimensions of the original, early 1925, Oxford Bags, rather than the dimensions of the post-May 1925 Oxford Bags, when they reached silly dimensions."

 

[Two Types]

Mr French CanCan posted this picture on his blog. Not much information though. It appears to be a "secret society". Older than mid 1920s for sure.
http://fcancan.blogspot.fr/

PS: It's the founders of the Book and Snakes society 1865.

Interesting. That predates the wide-trouser fashion of the 1880s, which I was aware of (but know very little about).

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I thought it was the "Skull and Bones" club Harvard.

Yes? I just saw the picture and in the URL it said book and snakes. Skull and bones makes sense too. Anyway it leads to conspiracy theory websites we better don't mention here. Clearly nutty as heck.

 

[Retro Spectator]

While I was browsing Amazon, I found these odd pants. It seems oxford bag type pants are back. Just search wide on Amazon's mens pants section, and you will find many of these.

 

[Fastuni]

Except that they are low-waist and have workwear/jeans-type pockets.

Here a listing with some better photos of the wide kikwear pants:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L370LQ...e=395261&creativeASIN=B002L370LQ&linkCode=asn

 

[Retro Spectator]

I didn't see those pants. Those have a disgustingly low waist. *yucky* I assume all of them are like that. Either that, or the guy needs to pull his pants up.

 

[Mario]

Anyway it leads to conspiracy theory websites we better don't mention here. Clearly nutty as heck.

Conspiracies, eh? Apparently some Bob Woodward used to be a member of the Book and Snakes. He sure should know a bit about conspiracies...

 

[Fastuni]

A rather odd pair of trousers with fishtail.

They have 12.6 inches (32 cm) wide legs and are straight cut.

I thought these were rough 30s German ¨Oxford bag¨-inspired slacks,
however according to HBK, the ¨Made in England¨-weave on the selvedge suggests a post-60s reproduction (perhaps theatrical?).

They are very sturdy and have a 34 inches waist and 32.6 inches inleg.

 

[herringbonekid]

before anyone says "NO they're original !!!" consider that the finish is too rough for bespoke, but not production-line enough for workwear.

still would look great as part of a 1930s ruffian / Apaches look, with flat cap, braces, black boots and tattoos IMHO.

 

[Two Types]

They look good. But would they have bothered to add 2 sets of braces buttons on a theatrical outfit?

 

[Two Types]

still would look great as part of a 1930s ruffian / Apaches look, with flat cap, braces, black boots and tattoos IMHO.

I was thinking: linen flat cap, neckerchief, sports shirt and white plimsols (or espadriles)

 

[herringbonekid]

But would they have bothered to add 2 sets of braces buttons on a theatrical outfit?

they could have been made by a home tailor (like me), just to wear, not necessarily for theatre. they're certainly a bit of a puzzle.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

They look good. But would they have bothered to add 2 sets of braces buttons on a theatrical outfit?

Going with that theory: If there are action scenes in the play or fast costume changes between the scenes a button might get lost and the actor can just use the other. Usually theatrical garments are "just for show" because the audience sits rather far away but the garments also have to withstand a lot of stress, movement and sweat.

 

[Two Types]

I was thinking: linen flat cap, neckerchief, sports shirt and white plimsols (or espadriles)

Or with a mismatched one-button, wide peaked lapel orphaned suit jacket and dirty boots for the 1930s Romanian look.

 

[Fastuni]

I was thinking along the same lines...
I´d wear them with an open-collar shirt and an odd peak-lapel jacket... too bad the slacks are a few cms too short for me.

 

[DAJE]

I've seen doubled braces buttons like that on military uniform trousers/breeches from the 30s/40s.

I'd say these trousers were either made to fit double-button braces, or adapted to them.

 

[Fastuni]

If all buttons were intended to be used at the same time, they would need quadruple-braces.
As it is, half of the buttons are spares (or for adjusting fit).

 

[DAJE]

So you're having trouble imagining leather straps with two buttonholes instead of one?

 

[Two Types]

I've seen doubled braces buttons like that on military uniform trousers/breeches from the 30s/40s.

Yes, I've seen them on British battledress uniforms. But the extra buttons were, I believe, for buttoning the battledress blouse to the trousers.

 

[Fastuni]

So you're having trouble imagining leather straps with two buttonholes instead of one?

Please show what you mean on the sketch I made. I think we are talking past each other.

Normal buttoning braces had two buttonholes on each of the three straps - makes 6 buttons in total on the trousers.

If you want to suggest (as I read your comment) that all 12 buttons on the trousers were used at the same time,
you´d need four buttonholes on each end of the braces, either on four leather tongues or on two wide tongues with two slits each.

I have never seen 12 button-braces and would appreciate a photo or illustration.