Overlap (or lack thereof) on the unzipped chest of cross-zip and double rider perfecto style motorcycle jackets

[JackBroChill]

Have tried finding anything on this but it's a bit hard to search for, nevertheless had no such luck.

Anyhow, I'm wondering how TFL likes the chest zips and flaps to sit when unzipped on perfecto style jackets, and how the 'gap' in between the two front flap changes as the jacket breaks in.

I basically ask because this new Shinki Schott model fits great with the one caveat being I wish the chest might be ever so slightly tighter since when it's unzipped (which is how I expect to wear it most of the tap) there's a little more 'overlap' and mingling between the two sides of the front flaps than I would like. As you can maybe tell from the side pic, the only fit issue may just be a bit too much material in the chest.

And clearly it seems like the most typical pics of people in this style have some clear space on the front in the chest.

Now, the second part of this post is asking if this something that tends to develop more with wear as the leather kind of relaxes and starts to hang down more/flare out at the waist and create more of a gap in the middle.

This is the kind of hyper specific fit question I know others have mulled over so I'd love to hear people's thoughts on calibrating this part of the fit and how it might change as the jacket breaks in.

 

[AerGuitar]

That’s a good question. One that I don’t feel qualified to properly answer, but I will say that yours is hitting about the same as the two properly fitting cross zips that I have. Looks good from where I sit..

 

[JackBroChill]

That’s a good question. One that I don’t feel qualified to properly answer, but I will say that yours is hitting about the same as the two properly fitting cross zips that I have. Looks good from where I sit..

Thanks. Definitely happy to keep rocking this one and see if it opens up a bit as the leather relaxes! Just not as familiar with this kind of jacket so learning the ins and outs of fit at the moment.

 

[Madhouse27]

The perfect (when unzipped) look from a cross-zip jacket seems to come from buying one a size smaller than you would normally wear. I guess I’ll need 42 for open, 44 for tshirt and 46 for hoody.

 

[Khilij]

The perfect (when unzipped) look from a cross-zip jacket seems to come from buying one a size smaller than you would normally wear. I guess I’ll need 42 for open, 44 for tshirt and 46 for hoody.

I find this holds true as well, though I'm certainly no expert. I'd try to aim for a good fit in the way you think you'll wear the jacket most often. For me, that's zipped up over a t-shirt or similar.

 

[JackBroChill]

I find this holds true as well, though I'm certainly no expert. I'd try to aim for a good fit in the way you think you'll wear the jacket most often. For me, that's zipped up over a t-shirt or similar.

This definitely seems to be a particularly challenge with cross-zips...I have seen perfecto's on people that fit in a goldilocks way where they can definitely fit a light sweater underneath but it still looks good with just a t-shirt on, but with this one being only S/M/L sizing that kind of goldilocks fit might not be possible.

 

[El Marro]

The perfect (when unzipped) look from a cross-zip jacket seems to come from buying one a size smaller than you would normally wear. I guess I’ll need 42 for open, 44 for tshirt and 46 for hoody.

100% true!
I would add that a jacket that is just tight enough to be uncomfortable to wear is always going to look great in photos, better than a jacket that actually fits in most cases.

 

[MrProper]

My xzip has not changed. Probably due to the Vicenza leather, which was relatively less stiff from the start and has changed little.
First picture October 2020, second picture a few weeks ago.

 

[JackBroChill]

My xzip has not changed. Probably due to the Vicenza leather, which was relatively less stiff from the start and has changed little.
First picture October 2020, second picture a few weeks ago.
View attachment 675022
View attachment 675024

Fortunately it looks great! I definitely don't necessarily want some massive ocean between my zipper, but a consistent barrier of space rather than some wires being crossed is what I would prefer. But maybe with more wear this leather (that's pretty stiff) will relax a bit and naturally part.

 

[MrProper]

Fortunately it looks great! I definitely don't necessarily want some massive ocean between my zipper, but a consistent barrier of space rather than some wires being crossed is what I would prefer. But maybe with more wear this leather (that's pretty stiff) will relax a bit and naturally part.

I can imagine that this will change a little after the break-in period. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. But I don't think it looks bad on you.
Fortunately, it always looks the same on me, regardless of whether I'm wearing a T-shirt or jumper or shirt and waistcoat underneath.

 

[navetsea]

I think some factor has to do with how big or how far you can fold the lapel, if you can spread the lapel further away then you get bigger triangle and less overlap, so somehow the position of the snap where the jacket anchor the tip of the lapel matters. and also perhaps if you wear it with it's belt and buckle the weight of the belt hanging will promote vertical draping and thus will spread both sides more. using the hand warmers often will also probably promote more draping and sagging thus make the lapel fold limper and not overlapping.

 

[bn1966]

I definitely go with the one size too small looks great open and I’ve had a few of those …. note….. ‘had’ a few of those … sold them on for jackets that are actually comfortable

 

[Tom71]

The perfect (when unzipped) look from a cross-zip jacket seems to come from buying one a size smaller than you would normally wear. I guess I’ll need 42 for open, 44 for tshirt and 46 for hoody.

Yes, unless the jacket has a boxy cut. If it has a pronounced "V"-taper (Durbale, Aero KotR), it falls open at the hem and pushed the lapels together. If the taper is less (Y2), everything pretty much stays the same.

Obviously, if you are fortunate enough that your bódy (still) has a lot of taper itself, everything looks perfect.

 

[Tom71]

Random photos to prove/contradict my point above…