Ordering my first leather jacket - a sunburst - probably Aero

[breezer]

take a bunch of Aero designs, mix them in a pot and ...........no, no and no. Have some respect for the design please.

 

[Mawashi]

Hi, and thank you, Mawashi!

Yes, it's elaborate - I just thought you meant it as some kind of edgy as in trying to challenge, maybe something associated with something I did not know about.

Do Aero make their jackets in slim fit? Are there pictures of both slim and boxy? I've only looked at the stock models, thinking boxy means boxy and not a possibility to slim it down...

The Klondike is nice.The Simmons Bilt V2 is an absolute amazing piece.

http://www.simmonsbilt.com/vintageclassics/simmons-bilt-1098.html

I e-mailed them asking about a potential sunburst. I'd customise it by removing the zipper pocket on the chest.

You're welcome Dan,
They do make slimmer styles like the Sea Biscuit. I found this on thread some time ago and it comes from Thurston Bros a is distributor for Aero.

Swing on by the shop today to check out our current stock or get fitted for a custom Aero or Vanson jacket! We'll be in from 12-5pm today (Sat)...

Now debuting--a custom Aero Premier Maxwell! Russet Vicenza Horsehide with a Lochcarron tartan and Olive Drab stitching...this Premier version of the Maxwell will be available from Thurston...

View attachment 43261 View attachment 43262 View attachment 43263 View attachment 43264 View attachment 43265 View attachment 43266 View attachment 43267 View attachment 43268

The Premier Maxwell has the slimmer fit of the Premier Half Belt...it's slimmer through the shoulders and arms...

As you can see they are able to make some designs slimmer in what they call premium cut.

I like the Maxwell but the Klondike looks a tad cooler and I've emailed Debs for some advice on a few mods for it.

As this would be a travelling jacket I'm looking for something that looks fashionable in Tokyo, Italy or anywhere else. I'm going for understated style here in that same shade of brown of the Maxwell but in goat or a mid weight horse.

The Bilt 2 has the rounded collar of an aeromariner which I'm not a huge fan of but overall its a really cool jacket that has a young n hungry vibe.

 

[Edward]

Are the half-belts just aesthetically pleasing or do they fill a role? I see the smaller adjusters "after" the belt, which I assume are the things that actually changes the fit, not the belt itself?

The only practical purpose I'm aware for a half-belt itself on the back like that is that it can, depending on the design, be used to join two panels together (above and below) for the back - though I've never dissected an Aero so I can't tell you whether that's how it's done with theirs. I have a vague recollection I read somewhere that was the original purpose way back in the 20s, then it became a style in itself. You ar,e however, correct thatany adjustment at the waist (or hem) is done by the side-straps, not the halfbelt.

There's a bespoke maker who makes jackets for like $1500-1800 near me, who do great work, and maybe she would be my best option since I don't have to deal with any compromising then, but once again, that's nearly double the price.

TBH, as others have said I wouldn't overthink a first jacket. Find one the closest to what you want, and add a tweak or two if that's what you want and Aero agree.

Hi 4444,

How much is it to modify stuff like that? I kinda like the Aeromarine, but to like it a lot I'd have to change the pockets to hand warmers.

You'd need to ask Aero. There is a small 'custom' menu on the website with fixed charges for certain custom jobs - different linings, mouton collars, inside pockets. Other modifications are on request and at Aero's discretion. When I ordered my Dustbowl I requested a plain front with a zipped breast pocket instead of the yoked front; I believe I only paid more for the interior pocket I requested. A lot will come down to a] whether Aero like the idea (and fair enough - what goes out the door with their name on it iswhat theywill be judged by by potential future customers), and b] whether it costs them more.

Do Aero make their jackets in slim fit? Are there pictures of both slim and boxy? I've only looked at the stock models, thinking boxy means boxy and not a possibility to slim it down...

This is where you really need to talk to Aero. Some patterns, they can tweak a little to measurements. Others are by their very design a boxy jacket or a slim fitting jacket. Start with an idea of the fit you want, then find the base-model closest to that is the best way. Attempting to make a boxy jacket slim fit by buying one that's radically smaller than your usual size doesn't get you a slim-fit jacket, just a boxy jacket that's too small.

I e-mailed them asking about a potential sunburst. I'd customise it by removing the zipper pocket on the chest.

I'd be surprised if Simmonds Bilt do a jacket identical to the Sunburst; their jackets that bear significant similarity to Aero models are all similar to pre-2012 Aero designs. The Sunburst was anew introduction in 2012 for Aero.

take a bunch of Aero designs, mix them in a pot and ...........no, no and no. Have some respect for the design please.

There is that! Though these days Aero are much stricter about what they will and won't allow out of the factory with their name on it. The era of the mandarin-collared Windward is long over!

 

[Mawashi]

take a bunch of Aero designs, mix them in a pot and ...........no, no and no. Have some respect for the design please.

I do get where you're coming from but if no one made any changes to certain designs we'll still be wearing stuff from the middle ages. Granted that most here have a great respect for history but when I see stuff from Y2 or double helix I see that they have taken tradition but made it just as practical yet more fashionable.

But this ain't the, what the heck is that crap like in this thread:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...t-all-warning-not-for-the-fainthearted.85462/

 

[dan-dan]

The only practical purpose I'm aware for a half-belt itself on the back like that is that it can, depending on the design, be used to join two panels together (above and below) for the back - though I've never dissected an Aero so I can't tell you whether that's how it's done with theirs. I have a vague recollection I read somewhere that was the original purpose way back in the 20s, then it became a style in itself. You ar,e however, correct thatany adjustment at the waist (or hem) is done by the side-straps, not the halfbelt.

I see, so I don't need it to create a slimmer profile, except it makes you look slimmer by creating a more natural waist line, I guess?

TBH, as others have said I wouldn't overthink a first jacket. Find one the closest to what you want, and add a tweak or two if that's what you want and Aero agree.

Yes, I'll probably grab a modded Aeromarine or a Sunburst. The sunburst is growing on me the more I look at it, and I think a big thing about it is that it looks quite uninspiring in the leather they got on their site for the examples; I saw some in other leathers and it looked a lot better.

You'd need to ask Aero. There is a small 'custom' menu on the website with fixed charges for certain custom jobs - different linings, mouton collars, inside pockets. Other modifications are on request and at Aero's discretion. When I ordered my Dustbowl I requested a plain front with a zipped breast pocket instead of the yoked front; I believe I only paid more for the interior pocket I requested. A lot will come down to a] whether Aero like the idea (and fair enough - what goes out the door with their name on it iswhat theywill be judged by by potential future customers), and b] whether it costs them more.

I saw the custom menu - I was wondering about other modifications. I'm glad to see they mod the pockets without much cost, while others would use it as a chance to grab more money. I understand their reluctance to do stuff because their brand is on the line every piece they make, but minor stuff should be do-able, like pockets etc. I'm happy they are not as free minded as they were before.

This is where you really need to talk to Aero. Some patterns, they can tweak a little to measurements. Others are by their very design a boxy jacket or a slim fitting jacket. Start with an idea of the fit you want, then find the base-model closest to that is the best way. Attempting to make a boxy jacket slim fit by buying one that's radically smaller than your usual size doesn't get you a slim-fit jacket, just a boxy jacket that's too small.

Yeah, that's why I was wondering. I've got my fair experience of bad purchases sizing down to achieve a different look. I've pretty much settled on either Aeromarine or a Sunburst - if I buy from Aero - and that's a good first step. Looking into modding the Aeromarines pockets or just going with a straight up sunburst is a more reasonable option. I could eventually try to find one second hand if a stock fit would be good enough.

I'd be surprised if Simmonds Bilt do a jacket identical to the Sunburst; their jackets that bear significant similarity to Aero models are all similar to pre-2012 Aero designs. The Sunburst was anew introduction in 2012 for Aero.

It isn't necessarily the fact I want an identical, more that I like it as a back piece. There's a brand called NorShor leather that does a sunburst, but it's not as good looking as the Aero: https://www.norshorleatherjackets.com/jackets/ns-sunburst which makes me guess there are more makers who got some.

There is that! Though these days Aero are much stricter about what they will and won't allow out of the factory with their name on it. The era of the mandarin-collared Windward is long over!

Were there any really good looking out-there models made?

You're welcome Dan,
They do make slimmer styles like the Sea Biscuit. I found this on thread some time ago and it comes from Thurston Bros a is distributor for Aero.





As you can see they are able to make some designs slimmer in what they call premium cut.

I like the Maxwell but the Klondike looks a tad cooler and I've emailed Debs for some advice on a few mods for it.

As this would be a travelling jacket I'm looking for something that looks fashionable in Tokyo, Italy or anywhere else. I'm going for understated style here in that same shade of brown of the Maxwell but in goat or a mid weight horse.

The Bilt 2 has the rounded collar of an aeromariner which I'm not a huge fan of but overall its a really cool jacket that has a young n hungry vibe.

That's really cool. Yeah, I think Simmons Bilt got some good looking stuff, but their history ... It kinda makes me shy away. I think the Aeromarine would look good most of the time.

 

[Edward]

I see, so I don't need it to create a slimmer profile, except it makes you look slimmer by creating a more natural waist line, I guess?

It can certainly help with that - plus halfbelt jackets are typically cut narrower in the waist than the likesof a Highwayman (reflecting, of course, thedifferent fasihons of the eras from which they hail).

Yes, I'll probably grab a modded Aeromarine or a Sunburst. The sunburst is growing on me the more I look at it, and I think a big thing about it is that it looks quite uninspiring in the leather they got on their site for the examples; I saw some in other leathers and it looked a lot better.

Hide can make a big difference to what leather looksl ike. I'm a big fan of the goat it's pictured in on the website; other people prefer hides that will show much more wear much faster.

Yeah, that's why I was wondering. I've got my fair experience of bad purchases sizing down to achieve a different look. I've pretty much settled on either Aeromarine or a Sunburst - if I buy from Aero - and that's a good first step. Looking into modding the Aeromarines pockets or just going with a straight up sunburst is a more reasonable option. I could eventually try to find one second hand if a stock fit would be good enough.

Aero have done afair few Aeromarines with slash handwarmer pockets instead of patch-pockets, like this:

I like them both ways. When comes the time, I'll quite likely end up going for the patch pockets just because I have more jackets with handwarmers, but it looks great either way.

It isn't necessarily the fact I want an identical, more that I like it as a back piece. There's a brand called NorShor leather that does a sunburst, but it's not as good looking as the Aero: https://www.norshorleatherjackets.com/jackets/ns-sunburst which makes me guess there are more makers who got some.

I'm sure there are; Norshor was founded by another former TFL poster (Fishmoek). Somewhere I have the first jacket Mark ever sold, which I bought from him via TFL Classifieds.

Were there any really good looking out-there models made?

Generally speaking, the further people specced away from the actual designs, the more likely they'd look.... odd. An occasional tweak is one thing, but there's a reason certain core styles have survived so long...

I think the Aeromarine would look good most of the time.

It's a very 'flexible' design - it'll look good with denims or collar and tie. Plus it's just that little bit different from everything else out there.

 

[4444Design]

Dan Dan,

with my comment about the more slim or roomy fit I was referring to different -but shape wise comparable- AERO designs like eg the TEAMSTER vs MAXWELL. A TEAMSTER in 46 is huuuge whereas a MAX in 46 feels more slim.

Or if you’d take a 1930is Premier Halfbelt is much trimmer in fit than a standard halfbelt.

But again the best way to get support is to get in touch again with Holly respectively with AERO. They will request your body measurements and based on their experience they will judge whether to completely size up or down or just get slimmer in the dimensions.

Anyway they will be able to guide you to the jacket of your dreams.

 

[Sloan1874]

When it comes to leather, I would go with brown FQHH in the first instance. I've never heard a single person voice any regret for choosing it.

 

[northcoast]

take a bunch of Aero designs, mix them in a pot and ...........no, no and no. Have some respect for the design please.

So I ended up mostly agreeing with you. I 'almost' ordered a sunburst but went with a Cropduster because I could let that design be without modifying it.

Be that as it may, I would really like to own a sunburst but I do not like the front of it. I agree with OP, I'd like to ditch the collar, the straight breast pocket I could maybe live with but the hand pockets are just atrocious.

Sunburst mashup I dreamed up were these:

1930's Aero Half-Belt with Sunburst Back
1950's Aero Half-Belt with Sunburst Back and August collar

I just think the Sunburst could be much better than it is currently configured.

 

[Mawashi]

Yeah, I think Simmons Bilt got some good looking stuff, but their history ... It kinda makes me shy away. I think the Aeromarine would look good most of the time.

Personally I don't have any coin in the game for either companies as I'll buy from whoever makes the best jacket for me for the right price.
To put things into perspective, Hugo Boss made uniforms for the SS n Wehrmacht, Mercedes made vehicles for the Nazis and most Japanese companies had their hand in the war too.

Hide can make a big difference to what leather looksl ike. I'm a big fan of the goat it's pictured in on the website; other people prefer hides that will show much more wear much faster.

Generally speaking, the further people specced away from the actual designs, the more likely they'd look.... odd. An occasional tweak is one thing, but there's a reason certain core styles have survived so long...

It's a very 'flexible' design - it'll look good with denims or collar and tie. Plus it's just that little bit different from everything else out there.

Edward thanks for the info about goat as it's exactly what I want, a long lasting leather that doesn't look beat up after a few trips.

The last thing I want is a jacket that looks like it's peeling apart like this:


I guess some like this look but I rather have leather that's dyed completely through for this travel leather jacket

When it comes to leather, I would go with brown FQHH in the first instance. I've never heard a single person voice any regret for choosing it.

Sloan1874, good to know about that leather too as I'm still in the process of deciding on what up get.

 

[dan-dan]

It can certainly help with that - plus halfbelt jackets are typically cut narrower in the waist than the likesof a Highwayman (reflecting, of course, thedifferent fasihons of the eras from which they hail).

I see. I think a half-belt is the way to go for me. I've got quite wide shoulders and chest and a somewhat narrow waist.

Hide can make a big difference to what leather looksl ike. I'm a big fan of the goat it's pictured in on the website; other people prefer hides that will show much more wear much faster.

I'll have to look into the leathers more closely, but I guess I'll go for horse. Goat is nice and all though, and high quality. I wish they had kudu as stock - I saw the post here with the moonshiner in kudu. I got a lot of kudu footwear and I love the leather.

Aero have done afair few Aeromarines with slash handwarmer pockets instead of patch-pockets, like this:

I like them both ways. When comes the time, I'll quite likely end up going for the patch pockets just because I have more jackets with handwarmers, but it looks great either way.

I feel like the patch pockets are a hassle to button/unbutton, but then again, most of my experience is from the LVC jacket where the buttons came off fast.

I'm sure there are; Norshor was founded by another former TFL poster (Fishmoek). Somewhere I have the first jacket Mark ever sold, which I bought from him via TFL Classifieds.

That's really cool. Norshor looks nice, but shipping to Europe is just too expensive.

Generally speaking, the further people specced away from the actual designs, the more likely they'd look.... odd. An occasional tweak is one thing, but there's a reason certain core styles have survived so long...

Yes, exactly. I just wanted to transplant the sunburst onto another jacket.

It's a very 'flexible' design - it'll look good with denims or collar and tie. Plus it's just that little bit different from everything else out there.

Yes - I'll have to consider it. I have to google excessively to find all the pictures.

Dan Dan,


with my comment about the more slim or roomy fit I was referring to different -but shape wise comparable- AERO designs like eg the TEAMSTER vs MAXWELL. A TEAMSTER in 46 is huuuge whereas a MAX in 46 feels more slim.

Or if you’d take a 1930is Premier Halfbelt is much trimmer in fit than a standard halfbelt.

But again the best way to get support is to get in touch again with Holly respectively with AERO. They will request your body measurements and based on their experience they will judge whether to completely size up or down or just get slimmer in the dimensions.

Anyway they will be able to guide you to the jacket of your dreams.

Thank you for your help. I'll look into it; I am becoming more and more fond of the half-belt. The 1930 premier is really good looking.

When it comes to leather, I would go with brown FQHH in the first instance. I've never heard a single person voice any regret for choosing it.

Got it. It looks really, really cool. It's probably the one I'll go for.

So I ended up mostly agreeing with you. I 'almost' ordered a sunburst but went with a Cropduster because I could let that design be without modifying it.

Be that as it may, I would really like to own a sunburst but I do not like the front of it. I agree with OP, I'd like to ditch the collar, the straight breast pocket I could maybe live with but the hand pockets are just atrocious.

Sunburst mashup I dreamed up were these:

1930's Aero Half-Belt with Sunburst Back
1950's Aero Half-Belt with Sunburst Back and August collar

I just think the Sunburst could be much better than it is currently configured.

Yeah, I'll see what Holly says about fitting me the best in terms of my body and stuff like that and then go from there.

Half-belt with sunburst back and August collar sounds really cool. The american cuffs are really cool, and so is the august collar.

What about adding another pocket on the opposite side, to get it that symmetrical look? Or even completely remove it...

 

[Seb Lucas]

The last thing I want is a jacket that looks like it's peeling apart like this:
View attachment 216965

I guess some like this look but I rather have leather that's dyed completely through for this travel leather jacket

,
That photo is how many of us want our jackets to look. Fortunately most leather will look like that after a bit of wear. It's a natural product that distresses in a wonderful way. That's part of why we like leather. Chrome tanned goat doesn't seem to fade or scuff as much but that can look really boring and vinyl like.

 

[Mawashi]

,
That photo is how many of us want our jackets to look. Fortunately most leather will look like that after a bit of wear. It's a natural product that distresses in a wonderful way. That's part of why we like leather. Chrome tanned goat doesn't seem to fade or scuff as much but that can look really boring and vinyl like.

Thanks Seb Lucas,

I guess I'm OK with some age showing but I've seen a few jackets that look more than their age too soon. Btw, does FQHH in brown age like the above picture?

Many thanks

 

[dan-dan]

Thanks Seb Lucas,

I guess I'm OK with some age showing but I've seen a few jackets that look more than their age too soon. Btw, does FQHH in brown age like the above picture?

Many thanks

Hi

I saw this in the other thread about second hand jackets:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/223929613579

I believe that's their brown; it is at the very least FQHH.

 

[Mawashi]

Hi

I saw this in the other thread about second hand jackets:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/223929613579

I believe that's their brown; it is at the very least FQHH.

Hi Dan,

This jacket doesn't seem to show the same wear. I found our that some leather is what the call tea core.


For myself I rather have a bit more uniform a wear patten.

 

[Carlos840]

Hi Dan,

This jacket doesn't seem to show the same wear. I found our that some leather is what the call tea core.
View attachment 216996

For myself I rather have a bit more uniform a wear patten.

This jacket is made from CXL FQHH, it is a leather that wears in very fast and looses its top coat very fast too.
It is very waxy leather so although it scratches easily, you can usually buff scratches out.
If worn a lot it will change into this:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/what-jacket-are-you-wearing-today.82949/page-563

@Dav has the most worn CXL jacket on TFL, i know there are more recent pictures somewhere but i can't find them.

TeaCore is a blanket term to designate a black leather that has a black top coat on a non black hide, therefore it will not be black all the way through. As you scratch it/wear it the colour of the the hide will come through. The colour of the hide beneathe the top coat can vary from reddish brown to natural beige.
A "regular" chrome tanned leather will usually have a greyish or blue hide beneathe the topcoat.

One could argue that CXL falls within that definition, but it is not often described as TeaCore.
Some say TeaCore is designed to wear faster than average and wear through the top coat quickly.
To me any leather that isn't drum dyed an uniform colour all the way through could be described as TeaCore.

All that to say, if you want uniform wear don't get CXL.

 

[Dav]

Here they are, just scroll down
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/highwayman-zip-sleeve-highwayman-database.99955/

 

[Mawashi]

This jacket is made from CXL FQHH, it is a leather that wears in very fast and looses its top coat very fast too.
It is very waxy leather so although it scratches easily, you can usually buff scratches out.
If worn a lot it will change into this:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/what-jacket-are-you-wearing-today.82949/page-563

@Dav has the most worn CXL jacket on TFL, i know there are more recent pictures somewhere but i can't find them.

TeaCore is a blanket term to designate a black leather that has a black top coat on a non black hide, therefore it will not be black all the way through. As you scratch it/wear it the colour of the the hide will come through. The colour of the hide beneathe the top coat can vary from reddish brown to natural beige.
A "regular" chrome tanned leather will usually have a greyish or blue hide beneathe the topcoat.

One could argue that CXL falls within that definition, but it is not often described as TeaCore.
Some say TeaCore is designed to wear faster than average and wear through the top coat quickly.
To me any leather that isn't drum dyed an uniform colour all the way through could be described as TeaCore.

All that to say, if you want uniform wear don't get CXL.

Carlos840 thanks for the great I do and what would you suggest for me I I wanted as uniformly dyed leather as possible. I'm ok w goat or badalassi that Harris mentioned in another thread.

Here they are, just scroll down
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/highwayman-zip-sleeve-highwayman-database.99955/

Thanks again Dav. Btw is this a pic of you and your dogs?

I'll say that one word describes you... Cool!

 

[Carlos840]

Carlos840 thanks for the great I do and what would you suggest for me I I wanted as uniformly dyed leather as possible. I'm ok w goat or badalassi that Harris mentioned in another thread.

In brown i have no idea, brown isn't realy my colour and every brown leather i have seen has always been on a lighter hide, meaning scratches will most likely show through.

In black i would say go with something dyed through like ELMC/Eastman, or Himel's oil tan Shinki, i think black Vicenza i also black all the way.

Here is a good example of what happens to black leather when you wear through the top coat if the hide itself isn't black:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...e-black-wear-and-tear-patina-etc.99669/page-2

This specific leather is drum dyed grey during tanning, some are just left in the blue:

https://www.leather-dictionary.com/index.php/Wet_blue

Keep in mind that what you are looking for isn't really common, most leather will show wear, will gain patina wih time, will show the naked hide at high friction areas, it's just the nature of leather.
Some leather like Goat are more resistant than others, but even they will show wear after some time.

 

[Mawashi]

In brown i have no idea, brown isn't realy my colour and every brown leather i have seen has always been on a lighter hide, meaning scratches will most likely show through.

In black i would say go with something dyed through like ELMC/Eastman, or Himel's oil tan Shinki, i think black Vicenza i also black all the way.

Here is a good example of what happens to black leather when you wear through the top coat if the hide itself isn't black:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...e-black-wear-and-tear-patina-etc.99669/page-2

This specific leather is drum dyed grey during tanning, some are just left in the blue:

https://www.leather-dictionary.com/index.php/Wet_blue

Keep in mind that what you are looking for isn't really common, most leather will show wear, will gain patina wih time, will show the naked hide at high friction areas, it's just the nature of leather.
Some leather like Goat are more resistant than others, but even they will show wear after some time.

Thanks again Carlos840,

After some more research, the wear is something I'll have to deal with so I guess whatever I get I'll just have to learn to live the patina like on my brass razors lol.