Ordering my first Aero

[jscottdavis]

Ah, the joys of the first one. I am in the process of ordering my first Aero jacket. I want the Cheyenne. I've been lurking around here and seeing that a lot of you guys do customization. I am thinking of doing the cotton drill lining so I can wear in the Spring and Fall, and getting Rayon in the sleeves (I read someone saying that makes it much easier to slip on and off), inside breast pockets on both sides (one with a zipper). I wanted the Oil Pull Brown until I read that the new version is lighter than the current pics so no I am thinking of the vintage brown.

Is there any other little touches you guys are really glad you did?

Thanks,

Scott

 

[jamespibworth@n]

Seems you have thought it through thoroughly.

Welcome to the Lounge and we look forward to seeing the result of your order.

I am on my fourth Aero now and am yet to be disappointed. But good luck anyway.

James

 

[Peacoat]

The cotton drill lining is a good choice for a hard wearing liner. It doesn't add much, if any, insulation, though. I have found that in temps much below 50 I need to layer with a sweater or a vest to keep the chill off. If your spring and fall temps are above 45, the cotton drill will be the way to go. If you want a little insulation between you and the leather, the Alpaca is a thin liner that works fairly well. It is much less durable than the cotton drill, however. Good luck on your jacket.

 

[Creeping Past]

Have you decided yet? What did you go for?

 

[Lear]

Things to consider:

* Do you want storm cuffs? They came as standard on my"Veste de Rallye". I'm glad I went without.

* Look through your other jackets, then try to match the same side for the zip and snap pockets (makes life easier).

* Roll-over stitching throughout (looks better IMHO)

* Know that cordovan has a purple hue; brown a reddish hue (both look fab)

* I'm glad I went with cotton twill for UK climate. I've never had a problem slipping the arms through.

* Do you want an internal name tag?

* If I want a true winter jacket, I'll go for storm cuffs, blanket lining etc.

* Can take 8 weeks or more to get made. Can you afford to wait?

Hope that helps

Lear

*

 

[miles_archer]

Most important 'little touch'...patience.

I ordered my Aero B-3 December 3 and it has yet to be made. To be fair they took two weeks off for the holidays but I am starting to get ancy.

 

[Peacoat]

I ordered my Aero B-3 December 3 and it has yet to be made. To be fair they took two weeks off for the holidays but I am starting to get ancy.

About the time you think they have forgotten about your jacket, is the day it will show up on your front porch!

 

[Bri]

AMazing pea coat

Hi, I was hopeing that someone could help me. I found an old pea coate my dad had bought in the 70's. This coat has a name embrodered inside with a service number. Above this is also another name and service number. This jacket deffinitaly had 2 owners. The second name & number is stamped with some kind of white paint. Over Top of the second name ( Which is not totaly clear, i can't make it out.) There is the letters DC stamped 3 times over top of the name. The DC is in red ink. THe lable on the jacket is Naval Clothing Depot. It is the lable from you 1949 modle you have pic's of. How do i find out who these guys where. How often do these jackets have two owners ???

 

[JanSolo]

Scott,

please make sure to order a cotton drill lining for the sleeves and let them add a synthetic rayon OVERLAY. A single layer of rayon for the sleeves is no good match for heavy F/Q HH. A dual liner for the sleeves doesn't make the jacket bulkier, warmer, or heavier but adds significantly to the overall durability. Aero has done this a hundred times and it works very well as the cotton inter-liner keeps the rayon lining from rubbing against the internal seems and cut edges of the leather.

-Olive drab gabardine (B10 outershell cloth) for the lining is of the same weight and density as cotton drill but with a much smoother surface and has a more original colour and character...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3550/3364556969_d7e947272d.jpg?v=0
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3652/3364560241_8f1102a14a.jpg?v=0

-On my previous 3/4 length jackets I always went for a curved Highwayman yoke instead of a straight one. It looked much nicer.

-Go for roll-over stitching or ask Will or Amanda if they can make you a two piece back instead of three piece back (depends on your size. It was ok for size 40 and 42)

-Do you really need the upper handwarmer pockets? They are not very comfortable to use as they are located too high on the body. IMO the jacket looks nicer and cleaner without them.

-I also went for scalloped instead of straight pocket flaps. Check Aero Mariner or look here:

-Pocket flaps with hidden studs (like on A2) or without?

-I always go for OD green contrast stitching. It's standard on all Aero A-2s but it works well on any other jacket they make. Olive thread even looks nice on black jackets...

-The Cheyenne is wide fitting. You should order a size down or better supply your exact measurements and let them know how you want the jacket to fit. Mine on the picture was also shortened by 2 inches.

-Don't go for inside pockets in the lining (as they tend to sag) but for two vertical ones in the leather facing (M422a style). They look faboulous and will never loose their shape. Do you really need a zip? The teeth of an internal zip might rub against your sweaters and cause pilling. Besides studs look nicer and are probably more accurate on a 1930s button jacket IMO.

- Brown F/Q HH is the real deal and probably Aero's "trademark leather". It's shiny and stiff in the beginning but will age beautifully. Vintage isn't much softer but more of a dull colour. I prefer a bit of shine on my jackets and most of it will disappear anyway. The current batch of FQ HH appears to be of a very rich chestnut colour which is beautiful. Check HoosierDaddy's new Bootlegger.

-Good luck!

 

[Peacoat]

Hi, I was hopeing that someone could help me. I found an old pea coate my dad had bought in the 70's. This coat has a name embrodered inside with a service number. Above this is also another name and service number. This jacket deffinitaly had 2 owners. The second name & number is stamped with some kind of white paint. Over Top of the second name ( Which is not totaly clear, i can't make it out.) There is the letters DC stamped 3 times over top of the name. The DC is in red ink. THe lable on the jacket is Naval Clothing Depot. It is the lable from you 1949 modle you have pic's of. How do i find out who these guys where. How often do these jackets have two owners ???

Probably would have been best to have asked these questions in the Peacoat thread started by Matt Jones, or in a separate thread. Maybe Scott will move it for us.

The answer to your first question is too complex to answer here.

Two or more owners isn't unusual and could have happened several different ways. From what you have described with your peacoat, it appears that it was officially reissued by the Navy to the second owner after the original owner finished his enlistment. Normally the peacoats aren't reissued and stay with the original owner when he finishes his enlistment. I say the peacoat was reissued because the white paint is normally only used in boot camp.

 

[Southernwayfare]

Scott,

-On my previous 3/4 length jackets I always went for a curved Highwayman yoke instead of a straight one. It looked much nicer.

-Go for roll-over stitching or ask Will or Amanda if they can make you a two piece back instead of three piece back (depends on your size. It was ok for size 40 and 42)

-I always go for OD green contrast stitching. It's standard on all Aero A-2s but it works well on any other jacket they make. Olive thread even looks nice on black jackets...

-Don't go for inside pockets in the lining (as they tend to sag) but for two vertical ones in the leather facing (M422a style). They look faboulous and will never loose their shape. Do you really need a zip? The teeth of an internal zip might rub against your sweaters and cause pilling. Besides studs look nicer and are probably more accurate on a 1930s button jacket IMO.

Jan,
I am always amazed at your knowledge of the Aero jackets and coats. I'm in the process of ordering my own and all the discussions here are a great help.

I'd love to see photos of the things you mentioned above. Particularly:
1 - the Highwayman yoke on your Cheyenne
2 - the one piece back on the Cheyenne
3 - a detail shot of the OD green contrast stitching
4 - the pockets in the leather facing.

Thanks again.
Jason

 

[JanSolo]

Southernwayfare,

most of the detailshots you've requested can be found here:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=40966

Hope that helps.

 

[OneEyeMan]

Could some kind soul take some close up pix of a "rolled over stitch" and a normal stitch so I can see the difference?
Thanks,
Lenny

 

[JanSolo]

OneEyeMan,

see the seam between the top yoke and the main back panel? That's done using roll-over stitching. It creates a somewhat thicker joint between two pieces of leather.

 

[OneEyeMan]

Thanks Jan!